Refrigerator replacement

[KevinH]

Hello, i’m replacing my residential refrigerator. When I removed  the old one I found this plug behind the refrigerator. Does anybody know what it’s for?

[timaz996]

Use a voltage tester as it looks like 120 volt plug. White is Common, Black is hot, and the other ground.

[TomV48]

I had a MOLEX similar to that behind our original nocold 1200 when we pulled it out.  Sadly it looked original and was used to poorly connect some 120vac pathways one of which was the Micro

I had the installer cut out a bunch of surplus wire length and join the connections in a proper junction box before the NEW NOW COLD 1210 went in

Edited July 7, 2023 by TomV48
typo

[Martinvz]

My new rooftop a/c came with that 120v power connector. I found it impossible to insert the 14 gauge wires without damaging the connector pins. 
 

It looks safe but it does not seem to serve a purpose. 

[Twomed]

That is one half of the connector.  It is not made to just shove wires into it.  You need the mating half to complete a proper  approved connection.

[KevinH]

Sorry for the confusion I’m not having any problems.  I’m in the process of replacing my 17 year old whirlpool residential refrigerator. Six months ago the icemaker quit working now the refrigerator stopped cooling. It’s time to go. I am replacing it with a KitchenAid KRSC703HPS. I’ve removed the old one by removing the doors to the refrigerator and taking it out the front door of the RV. I checked that extra plug shown in the picture for voltage.No AC or DC I’m assuming it was pre-wired for something else. I have made a of couple modification to the new install. I added a filter to the backside of the vent. When I remove the old refrigerator, there was a lot of dust and dirt behind it. This should help. I also added a half inch piece of insulated styrofoam board to the outside wall.  Thanks, Kevin.

[Martinvz]

Kevin, it is recommended to cover the outside opening completely to reduce the air movement it can be the piece you cut out and to insert it from the outside after the new fridge is in place. 
you should also place some foam board or other insulation in the roof opening to also reduce air movement. I hope that these were either already in place or on your to-do list. 

[KevinH]

Yes, the ceiling is insulated. Why are there vents in the cover if you’re supposed to close it off?

[Dr4Film]

The vents were used for the RV Absorption Fridge which needs cool air coming in and rising through the roof vent. It is NOT needed for any residential install. Both the side and roof vents need to be blocked off especially when it gets really cold outside.

The residential fridge gets its cooling air from inside the coach normally from the bottom of the fridge.

Edited July 8, 2023 by Dr4Film

[Martinvz]

Richard is correct that the exterior ventilation is not needed and could affect the interior heating and cooling. In your new fridge documentation you will find the side and top clearances needed for ventilation. These new residential fridges are very efficient and does not need much cooling at all. By comparison, the old absorption fridges generate a lot of heat for cooling (both electrical and propane) and needed the ventilation.

leaving the ventilation in place will not affect the operation of the fridge. However, you will be allowing hot air in summer and cold air in the cooler seasons into your coach, affecting your personal comfort. That ventilation openings could require additional cost for heating and cooling 
 

 

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, KevinH said:

Yes, the ceiling is insulated. Why are there vents in the cover if you’re supposed to close it off?

That was so you would not die if there was a carbon monoxide leak.  If you don’t close and INSULATE the cover and the vents, if any, in the frame on each side….

First….you LOOSE a lot of conditioned air from inside.

Second….temps outside drop down below freezing.  The Res Refer shuts off.  Been there.  Done that.  Samsung Tech said BIG MISTAKE.  The nee energy efficient res refers were not designed to work on back porches or unheated garages.  Government regs changed.  You would have had to find an “ALL WEATHER” style unit.

The first thing a shop will do is RIP DOWN any insulation inside the cabinet….if the old gas was insulated….fine.  The insulation kept the rear burner section from coming incontact with your interior space. If you left it inside or reinstalled or whatever, get rid of it.  The res refer requires a lot of side clearance…like at home.

Then seal the roof.  Insulate the cover and side vents. 1/2 - 3/4” styrofoam with a lot of the black foam HVAC tape…the. Covered by strong metal foil HVAC duct tape.  I cut strips using a serrated knife and put a layer of foil tape over the screens or to block the vents.  Then used strips of styrofoam and built it up…and then coated the back side with foil tape.  You need an R value greater than the sidewall.  You could make a foil tape dam around the perimeter of the back…then tape, from the inside, over the louvers and spray in expanding foam and the cut off the excess and then laminate  with foil HVAC tape.

YES….this is that important.  When it get hot, if you don’t have good cool air circulation around the back, your res refer will not cool properly or get hot and shut off.

This is a common problem and now we know….hope that explains it…many folks put insulation or left it in.  Problems.  Many didn’t seal top and insulated the cover snd louvers….problems.  I fixed mine properly and no issue after 7 years.  The OEM res Refers from Monaco had a blank plate over the rear and a frame with no side louvers and NO INSULATION inside…

[dennis.mcdonaugh]

I attached 1” foam board to the back of that vent cover when I installed our residential fridge. It’s a Frigidaire and works from 20 to 110 degrees according to the manual. 

[Guest jerrygrosman]

Why did you not just pull the refrig out in  the aisle and install the Amish new coils on back and reinstall it again.   I did that and love the Amish unit.  It has been in for 5 years and I have to let the ice cream melt before I can get it out even when it is 100 outside.  I still boon dock in Quartzsite for two weeks and other places and not run the generator every day.

[birdshill123]

A factory residential does not have a roof vent. Unless irt came off the line before they decided to install a residential unit.Monaco made a new side vent that is solid and fits in the same brackets. The inside walls on the side ot the fridge had ZERO insulation. Kevin: That  outlet on your unit is  for the fridge.

Jerrygrosman: The OP had a factory residential fridge. AS for the Amish unit or any other propane fridge you won't find much support for that thought.