Can’t identify these cut wires - part of refrigerator replacement

[Joe Lee]

For those helping me with my refrigerator replacement … thank you!  
 

Today, I’m hopeful someone has worked on this wiring before and can help me identify it.

I have an 02 Windsor with a fridge bay on the pass side between the kitchen counter and the bathroom pocket door.  

I have removed the NorCold and discovered cut these cut wires. These were possibly cut when I removed the fridge but the cut wires look dirty, as if they have been cut for a while. And, these wires are hot. 
 

I have pulled every DC auto fuse that I could find all over the coach.  (Fuse Panel in bedroom, Fuse bay under drivers window, Outside Bay with house/chassis connections, fuses in Aquahot bay) I have identified only one of these wires. It’s the large gauge wire with the tag stating F15 - water pump. F15 is the fuse position in my DC panel in the bedroom labeled Water Pump. I have determined that the water pump is NOT powered by this circuit. I can’t figure out what is. The only switch that hasn’t worked since I purchased this coach earlier this year is the remote start switch in the bedroom for the genny. 

I took 3 pictures while I zoomed in it the larger wiring loom with the cut wires.  

I was able to cut power to the tagged F15 wire by removing the fuse.  However, 12 v is still present at the same gauge wire coming up through the bottom panel.
 

this is no power at the small gauge red wire with the black tab in my fingers. 
 

There are 3 red wires coming up from the bottom panel. 2 are cut and one is damaged but has some connection. All 3 wires have 12v and I can’t figure out where these wires are getting 12v. 
 

I have looked at the wiring diagrams but can’t really determine what is what.

All ideas are appreciated.  
 

Next, I plan to remove the bottom panel, lower it and make space for a residential refrigerator.  Hoping I can lower the panel without having to disconnect all these wires!

 

[jacwjames]

Can't see any evidence that you've got a furnace under the fridge.

Wonder it they were prewire for furnace, larger gauge would make sense, not sure about the small one but the furnace does require a wire to the AC.

[Dr4Film]

I would first remove the existing floor that the NotSoCold sat on. Then you will have a better look at those wires. My guess is that they are not important since they have been cut and disconnected. Just make sure to isolate them and wrap them up with electrical tape to protect them from shorting out and causing a fire.

Those wires have nothing to do with your remote generator start switch in the bedroom. That would require a separate troubleshooting task, possibly just a bad switch.

[tmw188]

Look up thru the old refrigerator vent on the roof and see if there is possible rough in for solar?? 

[Tom Cherry]

The pump fuse might mean that there was an issue before.  The Pump start circuit is a GROUND signal to the controller. The Controller has, typically, two switches...one inside or two inside or one in the bay.  Doesn't matter WHICH switch makes the momentary ground...then the Pump control Relay just toggles and reverse or turn OFF the Circuit. If it already ON, the switch turns it off and vice versa. If there was a voltage issue or whatever at the Pump Control Relay, many folks just run a direct (hopefully wiith and INLINE fuse holder.  SO, they abandon the OEM feed.

As to the larger ones....MAYBE Solar. 

If you can borrow or purchase a TONER...then you can trace the signal. I was never a fan, but it has worked recently, so I'm getting on board.  

The prints do NOT indicate PREWIRING for Solar...but hey, this is Monaco...  You can always extend the wires or the cut one and wire nut if off.

[Ivan K]

Yeah, your roof opening picture shows how my old factory panel is wired down to the controller above the fridge. Your controller would have likely been somewhere else.

[Joe Lee]

Thanks for the ideas and I did identify the wires. 
#1 - OEM Water Pump 

#2 - OEM CO Detector

#3 - 5 AMP Slide Out Controller. 
 

Seems that wires #1 and #3 were were cut prior to my fridge removal.  Both the water pump and slide out controller are powered separately and are working fine. 
 

I will repair #2 and return to service. I will cap off #1 and #3 so as not to have exposed hot wiring and remove the OEM fuses that powered #1 and #3. As voltage is still present on one side of the wire, I’m thinking that power is being back fed as the OEM wiring was never disconnected.  
 

My thanks to all!

Now, back to my previously scheduled fridge replacement. I think I’m going to have to deal with the fridge sticking out in my hallway. Hoping I get used to it quickly. 

[jacwjames]

FWIW,

In 2021 I was doing some cleaning in my wet bay.  I actually have access on the back side, the door opens up.  As I was cleaning I found a coil of two heavy gauge wires, no caps on the end.  I tested and had power.

In my rear passenger side electrical bay on the wiring schematic it showed a circuit breaker for system heat along with a relay, this was not for the small 12 volt heater in the wet bay.  After testing I found the relay powered the wires that I had found.  My coach was prewired for the tank heating pads but they were never installed.  So found some that I thought would work and installed 2 on fresh water tank and 1 on the black & gray water tanks.  On a trip in Nov 2021 I put them to good use, I got stuck in temps down to ~15F.  After driving I stopped and checked the temp of the fresh water tank with a thermogun, ~45F. 

[tmw188]

Joe Lee, you are planning to close off all outside air openings to that refrigerator compartment I hope. Cabin air only for that residential refrigerator.