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Installing shocks on road master frame


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1 hour ago, Wayne Thomas said:

Going to install Koni shocks on my 2002 windsor  I’m a retired carpenter and backyard mechanic, when I built my pole barn I installed a pit 16’ long. So I have easy access to them are any tricks out there in lining them up .?

   Never installed shocks this large 

Need to raise, using the air bags, the suspension to max.  Then block up or use jack stands for safety.  Two different mounts…lower is probably the “eyelet”.  Upper may be the same.  If it is the stud, use a small, some call needle nose, pair of “Vise Grips” or locking pliers and grab the stud right below the mount.  Nut will be 18mm or 3/4”…memory.  Use a reversing ratchet box wrench….the kind you flip over to reverse, not the bulkier one with the selector handle. Rears are easy.  Front a little “not as”.  But, shocks have been installed at rallys….should have used jack stands, but rarely do.  Might need to spray the nuts with a penetrating oil.

Don’t know how the Koni is configured or made compared to Bosch.  The rod on the Bosch extends out so you can clamp on it, the new one, and that portion of the rod never travels or retracts into the seal or body.  No one worries about checking upper torque.  Get it as tight as you can.  If the Koni doesn’t extend like the Bosch so you can clamp on the rod with locking pliers….then use locking chain pliers, strap wrench (use a wrap of duct tape on the body) or “Channel Locks” or water pump grooved pliers.

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Guest Ray Davis

Wayne,  Having a pit you may be able to attach the top and push up on the shock to attach the bottom.

I used a ratchet strap to compress my shocks.

Good luck, let us know.

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I installed all 4 Koni shocks in my driveway.  As @Ray Davis said, attach the top first and compress to get the bottom to fit.  Not a bad job at all. Hardest part was actually getting the rubber bushing freed from the bolt.  Took some heat to get them free. 😉

Edited by BradHend
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You raise the coach until the wheels are off the ground.   On most vehicles, the shock is the limiting device for holding up the axle when topped out.   For access, remove the wheels.  Put proper rated jack stands under the chassis.  Ensure they are blocked up securely on firm ground.  Use 2x12's if not on cement.  Then, put a floor jack under the axle and raise axle a tad to get the axle weight pressure off the bolt.  Remove shock bolts with a 1/2" air impact.  Mine are 1 1/8" socket.  Remove the bolt. Remove the Shock.  Reverse process to put the new one's back in.  I had to use a adjustable wrench to pry open the ears on the axle a little to make room for the width of the new shock.

Edited by DavidL
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Unlike Bilstein shocks, the Koni FSD shocks are not gas charged.  With a pit, you should be able to install them without raising the chassis or removing the tire/wheel.  

Koni shocks are roughly twice the price of Bilstein, but I think they soften the ride on the front axle.  However, the unsprung weight is so large on the rear axle almost any shock will do.  

Also, remember Monaco uses 4 shocks per axle.  

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9 hours ago, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

I would Never install Koni shocks on Any Vehicle.  Chuck B

Could I ask what you don’t like about the Koni shocks? I put 4 on my little R4R chassis and it definitely rides and handles better than what was there.  My wife even noticed the improvement. 

Edited by BradHend
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22 hours ago, Wayne Thomas said:

Going to install Koni shocks on my 2002 windsor  I’m a retired carpenter and backyard mechanic, when I built my pole barn I installed a pit 16’ long. So I have easy access to them are any tricks out there in lining them up .?

   Never installed shocks this large 

Jim from source engineering convinced me to go with his shock it’s an advanced Holstein 200 hundred less. This shock is engineered for road master chassis’s 

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21 hours ago, BradHend said:

I installed all 4 Koni shocks in my driveway.  As @Ray Davis said, attach the top first and compress to get the bottom to fit.  Not a bad job at all. Hardest part was actually getting the rubber bushing freed from the bolt.  Took some heat to get them free. 😉

How did you get under the rv @BradHend

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I also opened the side panels on the rear (3 screws and brackets at the bottom). That helped a bunch for access. I also used a nut splitter on the upper nut (mine were top stud mounts). I just tightened the nut splitter enough to slightly deform the nut. They were easy to remove at that point.

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Wayne

Read this thread and see if this applies any new information for you concerning your Bilstien installation. Thorp, is whom I bought my 2002 Windsor from and because of this post, I know mine was built in Indiana and not Oregon. Makes a difference in bolt size for shocks.

Jim

 

 

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/new-bilsteins-shocks-wont-fit-on-top-mount-99753.html?highlight=Thorp

 

12 hours ago, Wayne Thomas said:

Jim from source engineering convinced me to go with his shock it’s an advanced Holstein 200 hundred less. This shock is engineered for road master chassis’s 

 

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  • 1 month later...

After a lot of research I ordered 10 of Bilstein #24-187312 4600 Heavy Duty (B6) Comfort Valving Shock Absorbers ($1280) from Shock Warehouse. Ordered on Monday and delivered on Thursday. Previously I tried 2 other online companies that claimed to have them in stock ready for shipping. After waiting a week for them to be shipped I called and was told they were being shipped from the factory days later. I cancelled both orders and called Shock warehouse and after being told they were in stock in their warehouse and would ship out on Tuesday (next day). Price was $5 cheaper per shock too. I had them installed, new drag link (Ultra RV Products UT29164 - Monaco Executive/Signature Drag Link 64" length) as well and a 3 axle full alignment done too. Fyda Freightliner (740-487-1730} of Zanesville, OH did all the work except balance tires and I went to Central Ohio Tire in Zanesville where they did a great job on 8 tires. Needless to say the coach rides very well now and all vibrations, terrible ride and sloppy steering are now gone. Now that my baseline for factory stock are pretty well done I can look into improvements of the chassis with after market support. Very happy with Service Manager Gene at Fyda Freightliner. They were good at getting me in, work completed and coach back as he knew it was our "home" now.  

Edited by Joint Venture
correct error in part #
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