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Generator on/off rocker switch w/ light


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We cranked up the 10 KW Onan generator on our 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV today and it appears the light in the generator on/off rocker switch is not illuminated while running. Do I recall correctly that the light is supposed to be illuminated when the genset is running? If so, is there a diagnostic process for determining if it’s an electrical/wiring issue or the switch? If the switch is bad, where is the best place to find a replacement? Thanks 

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38 minutes ago, Newcsn said:

We cranked up the 10 KW Onan generator on our 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV today and it appears the light in the generator on/off rocker switch is not illuminated while running. Do I recall correctly that the light is supposed to be illuminated when the genset is running? If so, is there a diagnostic process for determining if it’s an electrical/wiring issue or the switch? If the switch is bad, where is the best place to find a replacement? Thanks 

Richard is correct.  They are Carling switches.  BE CAREFUL.  Careless removal of the “operator” or the top part of the switch can break the switch.  There is a special Carling tool as well as a knockoff on Amazon.  I did them the hard way….was lucky.  The bulb is in the switch body and the actuator or top (what you push) Will interchange with many different styles.  SINCE YOU ASKED….LOL….here is all, and probably more, than you care to know.  Try googling Carling switch replacement bulbs.  Probably now have an LED interchange.  Get the tool….don’t risk breaking the locks on the actuator.

https://www.carlingtech.com/sites/default/files/documents/Carling-RS-V-Series_0.pdf

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I have the same issue on my 2015 Dynasty but don’t see the same switch on the Carling website. Once the light burns out, is it possible that this can cause the genset to start on its own without pressing the switch?  I took this to Cummins and they couldn’t find a shirt in the wiring. On the Energy Command monitor, I get an alarm that shows ‘Over Prime’.   Mine is a 12.5 Kw Oman. 
 

Tom Gibbens

’15 Dynasty

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Had lots of bulb problems over the years and a number of ways to address.  If you have any extra/surplus switches, you can disassemble the base and change out the bulb with a good one.   Not the easiest job the first time, little springs and small parts that fly about and reassembly is hard if you're not sure where parts go.  Bulbs have pigtails that are fun to put in the correct slots, too.  There are some 12v LED bulbs with pigtails on Amazon that work but a lot of trouble.  Easiest approach is buying a new switch base...got mine through Veurinks in Grand Rapids, MI parts store.  Tom's suggestion of using a switch cover removal tool highly recommended...didn't know there was such a thing and one is in my Amazon wish list.  Can't guess how many covers I've ruined.  Get the tool and call Veurinks! 

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@thomasgibbens no, a burned out bulb will NOT cause your generator to mysteriously start up. Normally, it can be caused by condensation getting into the weather tight connector on the side of the generator. Or it may be something more serious.

I replaced a burned out incandescent bulb in the Aqua-Hot Switch in my previous Windsor. They were failing constantly as that light is on ALL the time. I installed a LED bulb in its correct polarity and added a resistor to the wiring harness to reduce the 12 VDC to a level where the LED bulb could tolerate and still provide the proper brightness.

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1 hour ago, Michael Powell said:

Does anyone have that switch part number??? Mine has 2 switches that are able to start gen set but the one in the dash just stopped being able to start... Will shut gen set down but no prime or crank function.


Thanks

54 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

The switch part number is on the side of the switch. Remove it, then call Northwest RV Supply in OR to see if they have an exact replacement.

It will be a momentary switch with a certain number of lugs on the back.

https://www.nwrvsupply.com/product-category/switches-bezels/carling-technology-v-series-switch-bases/

Michael Powell 2004 Dynasry

I had a hard time trying to source the dash switch last spring. The number specific number is not on the side of the switch just a generic number which covers many switches. NWRVSupply didn't have them and didn't know when they might get any. The dash switch has 6 wires and the rest of the start switches only have 5 wires. The dash switch has the six so it lights up with the rest when dash lights on.  Had a hard time with carling getting to talk to a tech for the right switch but after multiple times success. I still had the cover so only had to buy the switch. Carling is now owned by Little Fuse {lil fuse}sp so don't know if that had anything to do with it. Good luck.

 

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I thought the code number on the side depicts exactly how that switch performs based on a Carlings Technology web site I viewed many years ago. It really isn't an actual part number.

I will see if I can locate the web site and repost.

Didn’t take me long to locate that web site.

Here it is: https://www.carlingtech.com/sites/default/files/documents/V-Series_datasheet.pdf

Edited by Dr4Film
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1 minute ago, Dr4Film said:

I thought the code number on the side depicts exactly how that switch performs based on a Carlings Technology web site I viewed many years ago. It really isn't an actual part number.

I will see if I can locate the web site and repost.

All my switch had was V1D1 think and this covers multiple switches. Both NWRV and the carling tech when I finally got one knew exactly which one I was talking about. Major issue was getting someone to talk to at Carling.

 

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if the generator starts and runs when operated by that switch and the bulb does not illuminate then common sense should tell you that the bulb has probably failed. There are other switches though out the coach, ie the dash and bedroom that are identical to the one that is located on the generator.I f those switches start and the generator runs and the light is working, then common sense tells you that the light in the switch on the generator has failed. The bulbs in the Carling Switches prior to 2006-2007 all had Incandescent Wheat Bulbs internally and the Later Carling switches had LED Bulbs Internally.

Your first call should be to Cummins Onan and purchase the correct switch or at least get the correct part number for the switch and then use Google or other search engines to locate one.

To help you, the Cummins/Onan part number is 308-1038 and can be purchased from Amazon for $15.04.

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Mine just started messing up.  The dash starts the gen but won't shut it down.  I am assuming its a bad switch.  Mine is a 8K on an 07 HR.  You think it's the same switch as mentioned above?  Or do I need to remove it first.  thnx   

Regarding the tool, there are diff makers but they appear the same.  does it matter which tool?  Is this tool just to get the face off or removal from dash?  does a new switch come with the face or do I use the old one.  thnx

 

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20 minutes ago, Gweedo said:

Mine just started messing up.  The dash starts the gen but won't shut it down.  I am assuming its a bad switch.  Mine is a 8K on an 07 HR.  You think it's the same switch as mentioned above?  Or do I need to remove it first.  thnx   

Regarding the tool, there are diff makers but they appear the same.  does it matter which tool?  Is this tool just to get the face off or removal from dash?  does a new switch come with the face or do I use the old one.  thnx

 

My hands on plus talking to Carling and also very well versed other members.  If the Carling OEM tool is a little more….buy it.  The easy thing is to replace the switch.  The hard thing is to not mess up the actuator and then search all over for a replacement…genny switch actuators are more plentiful….the custom logoed for Monaco…not such.  

As to the switch function….look at your prints and get the PN for the Carling….should be able to gently snap it out and not remove the actuator.  Figure out what pins are used for the STOP signal.  Then start and use a paper clip or a solid insulated wire and “jumper”.  It is probably a GROUND….I know that Onan’s were configured for Negative Start…per Magnum.  Look at the schematics in an Onan manual.  All the Genny switches are in parallel….so contact 1 on each switch….just runs from contact 1 on the first to contact 1 on the second and so on.  Your prints will tell you if the “stop” pin wire runs from the furthest back to the front….or if they are joined at some point.  Monaco was not consistent in a parallel function wires that had two wires on a spade terminal….like on the switch…and then the second went to the next switch…or if they were joined earlier and there was an individual wire to each switch.

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This group is amazing - thanks for all the outstanding feedback!!!

On 9/9/2023 at 10:21 PM, Tom Cherry said:

There is a special Carling tool as well as a knockoff on Amazon.  I did them the hard way….was lucky.  

Thanks @Tom Cherry - tool has been ordered!

On 9/10/2023 at 1:18 PM, David Pratt said:

There are other switches though out the coach, ie the dash and bedroom that are identical to the one that is located on the generator. If those switches start and the generator runs and the light is working, then common sense tells you that the light in the switch on the generator has failed.

@David Pratt On our Dynasty, the only genset rocker switch is on the dash. The switches in the bedroom are Intellitec switches - 2 of them. One for start & one for stop. When the genset is running the "start" switch remains illuminated.

On 9/10/2023 at 9:05 AM, Dr4Film said:

@thomasgibbens I installed a LED bulb in its correct polarity and added a resistor to the wiring harness to reduce the 12 VDC to a level where the LED bulb could tolerate and still provide the proper brightness.

@Dr4Film - Looks like I'll be exploring this solution! After checking all my rocker switches that have lights it appears I have a few of them out! Time for a new experience!

Thanks again!

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