2006 Executive fresh water pump controller location?

[Duanebalogh]

Where is the latch devise to tie the water pump switches together. The fresh water pump is working but not the switches in the 2006 monaco 

[Jdw12345]

On my 05 it’s on the passenger side in the lower compartment second door forward of the drive axle, in other words it’s in the same compartment as the fresh water pump, on the bulkhead wall on the left side. Again that’s a 05 Dynasty Platinum IV.

[MyronTruex]

2008 Endeavor. Behind the wet bay panel, on the right side wall as you face it. 

I have modified my wet bay panel so much that getting to it is very simple. And the space above the panel is open now for storing things. 

[waterskier_1]

You will usually find it within 24" of the water pump itself.  Follow the Pump wire.

  -Rick N.

[Les Hurdle]

when my pump works and 'stutters' the coach lights flicker... why is that?

[MyronTruex]

Likely it is wired from a source that feeds the lights. I know, that is not clear. The pump take a huge chunk of electrons on startup and pulls the voltage source low if not connected close to the battery source. The pump starting and stopping causes the cycling of the voltage. It is not really a defect but worth chasing the source of power down to tighten and clean connections. 

I suspect if you watch closely, when the pump comes on normally the lights will dim for a fraction of a second.

[Tom Cherry]

On 9/27/2023 at 10:39 AM, Duanebalogh said:

Where is the latch devise to tie the water pump switches together. The fresh water pump is working but not the switches in the 2006 monaco 

MODERATOR's EDIT. 

@Duanebalogh Your signature did not have the Model, EXECUTIVE.  That has been added to your profile.  It is difficult for folks to provide meaningful help for a "2006 Monaco" without knowing the model/series (Executive) as well as sometimes the floorplan.  Please edit your signature with the specific floor plan.

END EDIT.

You do NOT have a Pump Controller Device.  Some folks assumed that you do.  However, the 2006 Dynasty - Signature (and the HR models) had a "interesting Intellitec innovation.  I say that in jest...as it is a little past my pay grade for the Intellitec CPU driven MPX.  @Frank McElroy & @pwhittle are our MPX Guru's....they may chime in.

Here are two prints that will help them, as well as any others interested.  These are from a 2006 Navigator, but if you read the Where USED, that covers the Dynasty/Imperial and UP series.

What I would tell you.  Locate the CPU and MPX area, probably in a closet.  There are several modules and you have an index of what circuits and also the fuse ratings. Look at Module C (see the Multiplex Print).  That is circuit 5 (Red) on J3 Plug.  There will be a fuse for this.  It MIGHT be a 10, but it might be a 15.  There was an issue with the AquaTech Pumps in the early years.  Monaco put in 10 amp fuses...but the pumps had a bad habit of sometimes drawing a wee bit more current.  So, TECH SUPPORT (Original Monaco) said....  BUMP IT UP...to 15.  The wiring will accommodate that....so that is not a problem.  CHECK the fuse....if it is a 10 and BLEW...I would put in a 15. Many of the Camelots had the SAME exact circuit...so I know it works.

NOW...From that point on, I get a bit confused.  I THINK that the Module F in the Water Pump Schematic is just a "way to get you a SWITCH" in the wet bay area to work.  My Camelot is more primitive.  Monaco used a customized MPX with an auxillary two WIRE input....  Paul or Frank will need to weigh in.

I do KNOW that the original AquaTech RV55 pumps did NOT have an INLINE fuse holder.  NOW, if the OP or someone else put in the aftermarket replacement, they probably were as dumb as I was....and left the INLINE Fuse holder in place.  That is a piece of garbage.  Mine failed.  I just cut it out...and spliced the wires.....NEVER an issue and the MPX module has the fuse...so that is FINE....

The following is a note from the STAFF...  Two things, that folks that are helping should look at first.  The old rule of THUMB.....NOT ALL MONACO's are the same.  Second, since Duane did not put in the model, many probably assumed, and rightly so....that he had a Diplomat or lower end.  In 2006, Monaco upgraded the Dynasty and UP...and the same switches or devices or boards  that are on the lower food chain are NOT there.  In fact, the Dynasty has a plethora of FRB and RRB "Intellitec" boards and switches.  They are a breed of cats all unto their own.  Frank McElroy has explained in some other posts how these work and how to test.

The water pump does NOT go through them....but that is just an example of not being familiar with the two, quite opposite, systems from 2006 on...  ALSO, FWIW, Monaco upgraded the Camelot/Scepter in 2008.  BUT, it looks, as best I can tell and my opinion, that the Diplomats are very similar and anything from 2005 on up, with certain exceptions are the same.

THE POINT OF THIS....we have had instances where a member searched for a "COMPONENT" that was never in their MH due to incorrect information or misunderstanding....and some, I think, have also modified circuits and had to reconstruct.  SO..please look at the signature or click on the ICON of the poster and VERIFY WHAT MODLE AND YEAR....then offer help.

In this case....the Intellitec Pump Controller ain't there...

Thanks for understanding the Staff's concerns over this.  That way, the recommendations are correct and the problems are resolved and there is no "OPPS....not in that MH" posts....

 

38050679 Water Pump Schematic.pdf 38060156 Multiplex Intellitec Schmatic.pdf

16 minutes ago, myrontruex said:

Likely it is wired from a source that feeds the lights. I know, that is not clear. The pump take a huge chunk of electrons on startup and pulls the voltage source low if not connected close to the battery source. The pump starting and stopping causes the cycling of the voltage. It is not really a defect but worth chasing the source of power down to tighten and clean connections. 

I suspect if you watch closely, when the pump comes on normally the lights will dim for a fraction of a second.

Les,

Unless my assumption is wrong, Myron is correct.  What you need to do is look at the House Fuse Panel.  You need to look at your prints and follow the MAIN power feed to it back to the Rear Run Bay or "battery area"...that is generic.  If you are having "chattering", then tighten all the connections from the battery to the battery buss to that fuse or circuit breaker that feeds the HOUSE FUSE BOX.  This will only get worse and the flickering is drawing way too much current.  

What, my opinion, will happen is that you will arc and spark the connections.  AND, if my hunch is correct, your Vent Fan motors are on this.  It is NOT a good idea to feed low voltage (the higher the amp draw....the worse on you pump).  I think it is a situation that needs fixing.  If you repeatedly run low voltage....which increases the current load, on the pump motor....it will FAIL.  On that, you can depend.  I burned up a $2,000 hydraulic pump system (motor) due to that.....

So, either chase it yourself or get your tech (you said he could fix anything) and get it fixed.

 

[Les Hurdle]

thanks.. one never stops learning

 

L

 

[Paul J A]

"Some" ppl have ran a new heavier gauge power wire to the pump and experienced a terrific improvement in performance. Similar to what the  ppl who have ran a new heavier gauge power wire for their RV Sanicon.  

[MyronTruex]

If chasing connections down does not solve it. As suggested by Paul, running a fresh wire to the battery compartment and installing your own fuse or breaker will work just fine. 

Be sure to cap off the old wiring and pull the fuse as well. 

If the flickering is just light, (no pun intended), it might be normal with aging batteries and connections. If the lights go dim, that is a real issue and indeed, not healty for a pump motor.