SteveQAR Posted October 20, 2023 Share Posted October 20, 2023 (edited) I had an alternator replaced at a shop for my 06 Endeavor. The alternator they put in was not the same brand as the original one (Leech-neville). I drove 10 miles down the road, the alternator light came on. Went back to the shop and they put the leech-neville (original alternator) put back in. Found the two fused blown, the 5 amp right above the alternator and the 20 amp in the battery compartment. They put new fuses in, started it up and it blew the fuses right away. They replaced the fuses and it did it again. They disconnected the wire at the alternator and the fuse did not blow. There is currently 7.5 volts coming out of the terminal. Does anyone have any ideas about why the fuses keep blowing now that the original alternator is put back in. Could it be that the alternator they put on shorted out the relay and the relay is going right to ground? Does anyone know where the relay might be. - Thanks! Edited October 20, 2023 by SteveQAR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveQAR Posted October 20, 2023 Author Share Posted October 20, 2023 The alt that was put in was a Fleetrite Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveQAR Posted October 20, 2023 Author Share Posted October 20, 2023 one more thing the alt that was in was good but 10 years old and look very corroded was just trying to keep up with it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted October 20, 2023 Share Posted October 20, 2023 Read your electrical diagrams to locate that relay your are referring to quickly. Diagrams are available on the Monacoers site in the download area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyronTruex Posted October 20, 2023 Share Posted October 20, 2023 (edited) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzJ0-r_QE4o Watch this video to find out why your old one may not work now. In a moment, I will find a link to a ton of information you can review and come to a better understanding of your yours work. I'm not a fan of the remote sensor but it does make sense in many applications to assure the proper voltage is at the batteries. Long runs and tired connections can cause the voltage to be a bit low for proper charging. The remote sensor looks at the batteries very closely, much as you would with a voltmeter, then compensates for the reading it senses. https://1drv.ms/f/s!Aqrv2TUdbV6xgfJOjqvaRe3is_tAqQ?e=E0CZ0q Check these files out. Edited October 20, 2023 by myrontruex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterskier_1 Posted October 20, 2023 Share Posted October 20, 2023 Since you say this problem started after the original alternator was replaced, the replacement likely caused the problem. The alternator required for you coach is "special". It is a DUVAC alternator (although with the Isolator Relay Delay it is not really needed). But is also has a tap (actually 3, one for each stator) that is used to determine the functioning of the alternator. I'm attaching a diagram from a similar coach. If the incorrect alternator is used, most often it only affects the ALT-FAIL circuit, or doesn't fully charge the batteries. Since it is blowing fuses, indeed both fuses, it is either the wrong alternator, or it is (most likely) wired incorrectly. If it didn't occur right after the alternator was replaced, and it was only the ALT-FAIL fuse, then you could consider a bad relay or bad wiring (shorted) going to the relay. But it is also blowing the IGN (Ignition) fuse also. This provides the excite voltage, where required, and is also the way to stop the engine. If this is not wired correctly, the alternator will "back feed" from itself to the ignition buss, and the ignition key will no longer kill the engine. I would start by looking for the wiring error, ensure the correct alternator is installed, and also look for any damaged wiring that might have occurred during the alternator replacement. Many times the mechanic connects the wires to the wrong terminals. The physical location and the electrical location of the terminals may vary between manufacturers, and even between different models within the same manufacturer's line. -Rick N. 2006 Diplomat wiring diagrams Alternator.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happycarz Posted October 20, 2023 Share Posted October 20, 2023 Steve, your alternator should be wired like mine is, as both use the same schematic. If the alternator wire terminals are still original, Monaco color coded them BLUE, YELLOW and RED. From the picture of mine, you should be able to see where your wires go. The RED one goes to any one of the three stator terminals. It doesn’t matter which one. The IGN and REMOTE SENSE must be on the correct terminal. If you cannot determine which wire goes where by the terminal color, trace each wire back a ways until you can see the printed label on each wire. Once you know the names of the wires, you can place them on the alternator correctly. Once wired correctly you can continue to diagnose with knowing it is wired correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted October 21, 2023 Share Posted October 21, 2023 Holy crap Harry! I don't think an alternator has left the factory that clean 😂!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveQAR Posted October 21, 2023 Author Share Posted October 21, 2023 my alt have 3 wire - power - ground - small white 7.5 volt that go to the Alt- Fail relay and that all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted October 21, 2023 Share Posted October 21, 2023 13 minutes ago, SteveQAR said: my alt have 3 wire - power - ground - small white 7.5 volt that go to the Alt- Fail relay and that all Harry's pic only shows 3 wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happycarz Posted October 21, 2023 Share Posted October 21, 2023 When you say power and ground, do you mean the big battery cables, or small wires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveQAR Posted October 21, 2023 Author Share Posted October 21, 2023 2 big red and black and one small white Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveQAR Posted October 21, 2023 Author Share Posted October 21, 2023 What do you think it should it be charging at 14 volt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyronTruex Posted October 21, 2023 Share Posted October 21, 2023 Steve, it sounds like you have a self exciting alternator. The small white is likely an ignition sense. You should get 14+ right at the alternator. You should be able to "see" your battery voltage right at the large red wire. That is, it is likely connected at the starter area (stacked), with the heavy wire to the starter. Of course it could go directly to the battery. Hard to know if yours was a factory self excited or modified later. I prefer self excited for simplicity but the remote sensor probably gives you a better/more accurate charging. Either system is just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happycarz Posted October 21, 2023 Share Posted October 21, 2023 It would be good to look at the back of the alternator labels to verify we are giving you good information. If you could post a picture of the alternator back, that would be great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterskier_1 Posted October 21, 2023 Share Posted October 21, 2023 15 hours ago, 96 EVO said: Harry's pic only shows 3 wires. Yes, but there are also the large Positive & Negative wires that would be connected too. 1 hour ago, myrontruex said: Steve, it sounds like you have a self exciting alternator. The small white is likely an ignition sense. You should get 14+ right at the alternator. You should be able to "see" your battery voltage right at the large red wire. That is, it is likely connected at the starter area (stacked), with the heavy wire to the starter. Of course it could go directly to the battery. Hard to know if yours was a factory self excited or modified later. I prefer self excited for simplicity but the remote sensor probably gives you a better/more accurate charging. Either system is just fine. You are likely correct. Since Monaco did away with the Solid State Isolator (diodes), the remote sense isn't that important Sine the cables from the Alternator to the batteries is relatively short. But the self excitation is a problem. Sheer do you connect the wire? Normally it would be connected too +12 Volts, but if you do that on some Monacos, you can't kill the engine, since the ignition key is out of the circuit. You could rewire the coach to make it work, but it's best to get the proper alternator. Rick N 5 hours ago, SteveQAR said: 2 big red and black and one small white With only one small wire, it doesn't sound like the alternator does not have taps for the field (stator) windings. This is required for the ALT-FAIL Circuit. If you connected the wire that should have gone to the Field Tap to 12 Volts, you would likely blow the fuse, some the 6 volt ALT-FAIL Relay, or both. You need to get the correct alternator, and likely a new tech who understands charging systems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyronTruex Posted October 21, 2023 Share Posted October 21, 2023 So to be clear, the original alternator is in right now? Did you get stuck with the one they used to replace it? The link I provided shows how the alternator could have been damaged. A bench check of the alternator will tell you if yours is actually working. If not, it would not be that hard to convert to a self excited one. Your existing wiring would need some testing while disconnected to check for any shorts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveQAR Posted October 21, 2023 Author Share Posted October 21, 2023 yes original back in no they put old one back in the old one was working but was 10 year old and look very bad was just trying to stay on top of thing. The shop could not fix the light and sent me on my way I think the relay is bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterskier_1 Posted October 21, 2023 Share Posted October 21, 2023 1 hour ago, SteveQAR said: yes original back in no they put old one back in the old one was working but was 10 year old and look very bad was just trying to stay on top of thing. The shop could not fix the light and sent me on my way I think the relay is bad Please post a picture of the back of the alternator. Is the ALT-FAIL light on? You can simply pull the ALT-FAIL relay and the light will go out. Obviously, it won't be monitoring the alternator condition when removed. -Rick N. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveQAR Posted October 22, 2023 Author Share Posted October 22, 2023 update put new relay and light is. new alt. on the was 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterskier_1 Posted October 22, 2023 Share Posted October 22, 2023 Can you try that with complete sentences, and punctuation? Did you replace the relay with a 6-volt or 12-volt? The light is ???? Is it working? I don't understand - think you are saying you have the new alternator installed? What does "on the was" mean?? -Rick N. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff H Posted October 23, 2023 Share Posted October 23, 2023 Hi I recently had to change the alternator in my 06 Diplomat (which I think is the same as the Endeavor) . See the help I received below and the replacement I used. Scotty was a big help. The alternator is not a DUVAC type. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gbracer Posted December 28, 2023 Share Posted December 28, 2023 (edited) the relay that runs the dash light is a 6v coil original equipment , when the alt is replaced quite common for the signal to be 12v you need to change the relay to the dash light to 12v coil Edited December 28, 2023 by Gbracer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbr046 Posted December 28, 2023 Share Posted December 28, 2023 6 hours ago, Gbracer said: the relay that runs the dash light is a 6v coil original equipment , when the alt is replaced quite common for the signal to be 12v you need to change the relay to the dash light to 12v coil If that's the case put a resistor in series on the signal line. Of course they'd need to determine value and wattage. How much current can a 6V relay consume? R=V/I, P=I^2*R - bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gbracer Posted December 28, 2023 Share Posted December 28, 2023 So much easier to just buy a $10 relay and be done KISS theroy.!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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