Venturer Posted December 3, 2023 Share Posted December 3, 2023 The generator on my 2006 Monaco has decided to slowly roll out while parked on level ground. It will power back in tight but will roll out 6-8" overnight. It used to creep out an inch after a couple days. Ideas???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution Ivan K Posted December 3, 2023 Solution Share Posted December 3, 2023 It has been addressed here multiple times. For starters, hold the switch for a bit longer after it reached its mechanical stop in hopes of clearing possible debree in the valve seat or air in lines. After that, it's a leaky valve or cylinder piston seal, assuming no external leaks. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturer Posted December 3, 2023 Author Share Posted December 3, 2023 That's what I have done a couple times. Will see if it holds. If not, I will strap it closed till I can get it diagnosed. With the gen all the way out I can see four solenoids and the hoses. Everything is dry. It moves smooth with no jerking, so I suspect the oil level is fine. I don't have the ramps here to run it up and I don't feel safe under it without. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturer Posted December 18, 2023 Author Share Posted December 18, 2023 Cycling the generator all the way out and back in a couple times plus holding the switch for a few seconds cured the roll out problem. Thanks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturer Posted February 27 Author Share Posted February 27 The roll out issue is back. I've tried cycling it out and back in several times, however, it still wants to roll out after several hours. Sometimes only 2" in 24 hours. Sometimes 3-4" in less than 24 hours. Is there a fix to it or is valve replacement the only recourse? I assume it's a motor/valve combo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 Or a cylinder piston seal....a simple oring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturer Posted February 28 Author Share Posted February 28 9 hours ago, Ivan K said: A piston seal would be an easy fix. I'm puzzled by the fact that occasionally, it will stay put for days and not move until I run it out and then it won't hold shut. I'm thinking a seal would always leak once it started. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 I suppose once the pressures equalize, temp changes might take effect due to different volumes or inclines and g-forces if driving and braking. Or just a grain of dirt or seal scar that moves around, who knows. I had it happen myself before replacing the seals and never had to do anything with the valves. Just an other, cheaper possibility if you can do it yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 9 hours ago, Ivan K said: I suppose once the pressures equalize, temp changes might take effect due to different volumes or inclines and g-forces if driving and braking. Or just a grain of dirt or seal scar that moves around, who knows. I had it happen myself before replacing the seals and never had to do anything with the valves. Just an other, cheaper possibility if you can do it yourself. The traditional approach, from way back when, is to disassembly and clean the valves. Monaco supposedly used Teflon tape for a while and shards of the tape eventually wound up in the system. Don't know if that is the issue here, but an intermittent condition seems to be more logical that something is floating around and only gets involved...where a seal or such would be 100%. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Pratt Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 When you have the issue of "Slide Creep" in or out in most cases it will be a dirty solenoid valve seat and extending and retracting the slide several times and holding the switch on for several seconds after the slide comes to a stop will usually clear up the issue. If the problem persists after you exercise the slide you will need to remove the offending solenoid valve and manually clean it and replace the o-rings and re-install the valve assembly. I have discovered that the HWH o-rings fit to loose on the valve and sometimes will not seat correctly and can also be a cause for slide out creep. The best replacement o-rings I have found are the green O-rings used in automotive AC systems and are available at any auto parts store. They fit the valves tight and do not fail. When trouble shooting, remember that if the slide is creeping out that it will be the Retract Solenoid that is at fault and if the slide is creeping in it will be the Extend Solenoid that is at fault. A leaking internal shaft seal will not cause the slide to creep in either direction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturer Posted February 28 Author Share Posted February 28 It appears to be the retract valve that is leaking back. Is it necessary to extend the slide all the way or can it be opened a short distance, then retracted and holding the switch for a few seconds when closed several times? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Pratt Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 The proper procedure from HWH and is in the Operators Manual is to fully extend and retract the slide outs until the slide out stops and hold the button in until you hear a change in pitch of the hydraulic pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 Just throwing this out there Another Windsor owner was having trouble with his generator slide creeping. My 2002 Windsor uses a Power Gear system that is only for the generator slide. I was helping him go through possible causes, specifically I told him to check the block that holds the lock valve. It was good, valve was not stuck. Finally the last thing I told him to check was the cylinder itself. When he tore it down he found that the packing on the piston was bad allowing the ram to go in/out on it's own. The hydrualic fluid was bleeding past the piston. So if after going through all the common causes of this type of problem try looking at the cylinder itself. It would be a good time to clean the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J A Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 Wonder if the magnetic discs on the Genny slide frame are loosing effectiveness? They open/close the circuit to keep it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Pratt Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 The magnetic discs on the HWH Genny Slide out Frame are for the warning light on the dash to remind the driver the slide out is still extended and may be part of the "no start" circuit if the MH is set up that way. They do not control any of the HWH slide out functions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturer Posted February 29 Author Share Posted February 29 I just extended and retracted the generator three time holding the switch at retraction till the change in sound. Hopefully, it will be in the same position in the morning. 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joefromperry Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 19 hours ago, David Pratt said: When you have the issue of "Slide Creep" in or out in most cases it will be a dirty solenoid valve seat and extending and retracting the slide several times and holding the switch on for several seconds after the slide comes to a stop will usually clear up the issue. If the problem persists after you exercise the slide you will need to remove the offending solenoid valve and manually clean it and replace the o-rings and re-install the valve assembly. I have discovered that the HWH o-rings fit to loose on the valve and sometimes will not seat correctly and can also be a cause for slide out creep. The best replacement o-rings I have found are the green O-rings used in automotive AC systems and are available at any auto parts store. They fit the valves tight and do not fail. When trouble shooting, remember that if the slide is creeping out that it will be the Retract Solenoid that is at fault and if the slide is creeping in it will be the Extend Solenoid that is at fault. A leaking internal shaft seal will not cause the slide to creep in either direction. This is exactly what I had to do with my 2003 Signature when it kept creeping out. I ended up replacing the solenoid/valve and all is good. I have the old one to replace the o-rings and keep as a spare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturer Posted February 29 Author Share Posted February 29 After 15 hours, the gen slide is still firmly retracted. In the past, I was releasing the switch as soon as the slide stopped without holding it for a few seconds. Hopefully, this process will solve the problem. Thanks, David for the heads up on the correct procedure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J A Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 21 hours ago, David Pratt said: The magnetic discs on the HWH Genny Slide out Frame are for the warning light on the dash to remind the driver the slide out is still extended and may be part of the "no start" circuit if the MH is set up that way. They do not control any of the HWH slide out functions. Yep. I was thinking about that. Ran into a guy years ago that had a real mess with all that circuity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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