Coolant pump question

[Kevin Schitoskey]

I always appreciate the variety of opinions from members on this site - I wanted to get your input.  I'm doing coolant flush / replacement with all new hoses, thermostat and belts.  Coach has 77K on 8.3 ISC - should I replace the coolant pump?  It is convenient, as I will have the coolant drained and belts removed - but is it really necessary?  Low miles, but 23 years.  I'm on the fence on this one.  Your thoughts?

If yes, Napa vs Cummins original?

Thanks for your input as always.

[Rodger]

Known failures even at low mileage. My vote is change it. Three bolts to remove since you will have the belt off. I went with the Cummins oem pump although I wasn’t as smart as you I changed it on the road after failure. 

[Rikadoo]

So when i did all my cooling system repairs, i also performed all the upgrades. My reasoning was my coach is a rear radiator style and access is limited. I had chose to replace mine and i went back with cummins, when it came in it looked majorly different than the old one. When i asked i was told it was that the original had been upgraded several times. Its hard choosing run it or replace it sometimes, guess my thoughts are would i want to have to do that on a trip somewhere, my answer generally answers itself.

[Scotty Hutto]

I recently replaced mine when I replaced my rear radiator. Given the age, my vote would be yes, but you may want to consider whether it’s leaking, or if there is any play in the bearings.  

Mine was not leaking, but had 105k miles and 16 years on the original pump and there was some play in the bearings. 

Also, seeing Rick’s pictures, there have probably been improvements in the pump design that would give better flow…

[jacwjames]

When I had to have my radiator replaced due to road debris I specifically told Cummins I wanted both a new water pump and thermostat.  Just makes sense to replace something like this when you have the hard part done since you already are draining the coolant. 

Rik's pictures of the old and new water pump show that there was quite a change.  The old had straight impellers while the new are curved, which in my mind would be more effective/efficient and moving coolant. 

 

[Kevin Schitoskey]

I never considered updated design - that's a really great point.  Thank you.

[Olethehammer]

Where did you source the radiator?

 

[jacwjames]

Not sure who you are asking but

I sourced mine from CG&J, at the time it looked alike a good option

But I found that the transmission cooler was not sized correctly, had a heating problem  AND it started to seep/leak I used Irontite to seal it and that worked but not an ideal situation. 

I use to recommend them but not anymore. 

[Scotty Hutto]

I used Radiator Supply House. Very pleased with the quality, delivery (they had it in stock) and price. I went with a copper/brass radiator rather than the original all-aluminum, but they offer both. 

I have about 8,000 miles on the new radiator since August 1, and my temps are consistently in the high 170°F - low 180°F range.  Transmission temps are significantly cooler, too  

https://radiatorsupplyhouse.com/#&gid=1&pid=1

You can get the modern equivalent of the OEM aluminum radiator from Source Engineering:

https://sourcerv.com/

[vito.a]

I'm inclined to leave it alone if there are no signs of a leak.

I would also be concerned about the country the new part was manufactured in.