Going HIGH TECH….2007 Dynasty. New Inverter Charger and Lithiums and such. Questions??” and Help Needed.

[John C]

I am in the process of upgrade the whole electric system - lithium batteries, Victron Inverter Charge, DC to DC Charge etc.

My 2007 Dynasty has BATT BOOST:
The Battery Boost switch is used if the motorhome chassis battery is too low to start the engine. Use Battery Boost to momentarily “jump” the house batteries for extra battery
charge.

So if I replace the Magnum with Victron, will this BATT BOOS still work? or this function is tight with Magnum Inverter?

Please advise.

 

Thank you.

[JDCrow]

Batt boost, I believe you are referring to the big boy combiner. Much has been written here about this. The direct answer is no, since you are most likely still using lead acid as your chassis or start batteries. They don’t play well when you marry them to your new lithium. 
 

There is a device out there, google “lithium big boy” and you should find it. It replaces the OEM big boy which allows your batteries to play nice 

I just eliminated my big boy combiner and carry a small jump box should my batteries go dead. 
 

Found this 

https://explorist.life/how-to-wire-a-li-bim-battery-isolator/

 

[John C]

I have not disconnected the house battery yet, but just from outside I didn't see any wire directly connect the chassis battery to the house battery. how do you eliminate the connection between house battery chassis battery?

Thanks

Where is  big boy combiner located? I didn't see anywhere, no in the compartment next to the driver seat(where you have the switch to move the generator in & out)

[Rocketman3]

I can’t help you where yours battery boost is - sometimes it is called a BIRD -  My unit 2000 it is in the rear run bay.

I was able to keep the Battery Boost because it has its own solenoid in my rig. A few years later they used a BIRD relay to cover bi-directional charging and boost. I think some people disabled the automatic charging to make it work.

I completely separated the engine battery side from the house (lithium) side - then added back in a Dc-Dc charger.

can you take a photo of your rear run bay?

[Bob Blackmon]

To answer your question The inverter has nothing to do with the boost function of the combiner. However you will not want to start your coach with your new lithium batteries. Hold the boost button for 5 minutes then release and then start.

[Tom Cherry]

On 2/2/2024 at 12:54 AM, John C said:

I have not disconnected the house battery yet, but just from outside I didn't see any wire directly connect the chassis battery to the house battery. how do you eliminate the connection between house battery chassis battery?

Thanks

Where is  big boy combiner located? I didn't see anywhere, no in the compartment next to the driver seat(where you have the switch to move the generator in & out)

WHOA FOLKS….  This ain’t your Granddaddy’s Oldsmobile….LOL

FIRST….do some research.  The BOOST switch is for the BIRD SYSTEM.  The Magnum Inverter is in no way connected, controlled or interactive with the “BOOST” function.  However, you need to fully understand the electronics and the complexity of the systems….especially on a later model Dynasty….thus the “Oldsmobile” punch line….

John, 

You best download the prints.  Your system is NOT the simple “Plain Jane” that most have.  You have an Intelliec controlled front and rear bay.  Chocked full of custom boards with MFSTS MOSFET’s. I am not an expert….but these proprietary boards that are no longer available.

There “may be” a Lithium Big Boy, but I am not aware of one for the Intellitec BIRD system. BIRD is the acronym for Bi-Directional Charging.  There is a 200 A Big Boy solenoid controlled by a board in the rear….basically. the ON or OFF of this solenoid.  It is NOT a Continuous Duty Solenoid. There is a #6 (Memory) Special, discontinued, control board.  This board serves two purposes.  It Monitors the House and Chassis circuits. When there is AC or DC charging current available, it then closes the Big Boy. BUT it sends out a “pulsed” signal.  Lets say it pulses, say 50 times per second. Then that 20 Millisecond pulse turns OFF then ON. The “width” or the time ON is about 13 milliseconds. That is about 60%…or 12 milliseconds,  So, the Big Boy gets the equivalent of an 8 or 9 VDC signal. IF the pulse was 100% or just “wired” direct, the Big Boy’s coil would short out from overheating.  

Now, about the BOOST.. The signal from the boost switch is a NEGATIVE ground.  That then is fed into this board.  When you press it….it sends a 100% ON signal (NOT PULSED) and the Big Boy is closed.  Leave it pushed IN (some folks have been told by “experts” to wedge a golf T under it for FULL TIME BIRD….a costly piece of advice from unknowing folks,,,,that read it somewhere…) or ON for more than say 30 seconds starts to overheat the coil.

I really don’t remember, but I am SURE there has been, a Lithium conversion for the 2006 Dynasty and up electronics.  They are day and night different from the more conventional BIRD systems used on the lower food chains. Monaco used the PLAIN BIRD systems circa 2005 on them.  Kept upgrading but the technology is basically the same through the years that Navastar owned them. My Camelot has a BIG BOY, but it has a control module that is still available.

We have TWO experts on the Intellitec systems….and each can rebuild, usually, many of the 20 or so odd boards used in the front and rear run bays.

If I had a Dynasty, I would NOT DESTROY the system. I would just “leave it alone”.  A future owner might not be impressed with Lithium or need to replace batteries and “gasp” at the price.  

There are TWO small control wires on the Main House and Chassis Disconnect switches.  DISCONNECT both the small wires and insulate them with tape. Polarity is NOT an issue….do that on BOTH switches.  THEN the BIRD system has been, PROPERLY deactivated.

Next…read or get help here and install the Blue Seas ML-ACR. Your MH is now “OLD” technology….and that is the CHEAPEST way. Find out what others are doing.  Blue Seas will assist as to how to Handle Lithiums. There is a simple ON/OFF/AUTO switch on the basic unit.  Your front boost switch is intact, but disconnected or non functional when you killed the BIRD Control circuit. When you need a “boost” function….get out….walk…..open the RRB. Turn the BOOST ON….

The Lithium gang will advise you how they keep the ML-ACR set and what other mods or components are needed.

Good luck….

 

Edited February 19 by Tom Cherry
Wrong acronym. MOSFET

[John C]

13 hours ago, Rocketman3 said:

I can’t help you where yours battery boost is - sometimes it is called a BIRD -  My unit 2000 it is in the rear run bay.

I was able to keep the Battery Boost because it has its own solenoid in my rig. A few years later they used a BIRD relay to cover bi-directional charging and boost. I think some people disabled the automatic charging to make it work.

I completely separated the engine battery side from the house (lithium) side - then added back in a Dc-Dc charger.

can you take a photo of your rear run bay?

When you stay "I completely separated the engine battery side from the house (lithium) side - then added back in a Dc-Dc charger." how did you separate the engine battery side from the house?

Here is the my engine bay pictures. 

Yes, Yes, I lost my transmission dip stick and just ordered  cap for that. I also order the air filter and will change it once it arrives.

The brown plastic pipe is just a protection for the engine preheater electric wire. believe or not, it is by Monaco.

[Tom Cherry]

https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=lithium&quick=1&type=forums_topic

If you click on the above, there are 21 PAGES where Lithium Batteries are discussed.  As you will see, many have pages and pages. Scroll down through this.  Your's is in here as it has LITHIUM in the TITLE.  Use the Search Box in the upper right....  then put in LITHIUM  then click on everywhere....and choose. topics....

NOW, if you keep scrolling or change the SEARCH to Lithium ML-ACR, and choose topics, you get specific hits.  We have a WEALTH of information.  

BUT, not every member that is LITHIUM astute or an expert reads every topic.  That is WHY we ask for a search first...

Now you know how.  You have a few day's reading ahead of you...but that sure, IMHO, beats tinkering or messing or rewiring a system that you are NOT 100% conversant with.  UNFORTUNATELY...we do have that happen...and most of the members with knowledge...say... RESTORE TO OEM...Provide a Print....then we can help.

Good luck on the above...and here is another resource...

@RoadTripper2084 just posted this in another topic.  We do NOT have a feature to duplicate...so this is a CUT and PASTE...  I would read it and understand it.  He says, I think, he does NOT USE or HAVE a Boost. That then does, effectively, I think, eliminate BIRD charging.  

I posted HOW to totally, quickly and easily, disconnect or eliminate the BIRD system without demolishing or "Owner UNKNOWN Wiring Mods" issues...

From that post...

Here's a write-up I did when I converted Blue Thunder to a single 280Ah LiFePO4 battery you might find of interest (on that other forum):

Setup Overview

• Removed the lead-acid 8D house batteries and installed a new self-assembled 280Ah LiFePO4 battery, with 200A Bluetooth-enabled BMS next to the converter/inverter in the service bay (indoors, heated).
• Disconnected the house circuit completely from the chassis batteries. This involved removing the oem battery isolator, chassis battery maintainer, and the "big boy" boost solenoid (used to boost the chassis battery from the house battery) from the rear engine bay electrical panel.
• Kept the oem Freedom Model 20 Inverter/Converter (2000w, 100A 3-stage battery charger, no Lithium charge profile), set it to use its lowest voltage gel battery charge profile (14.1v absorption, 13.8v float, no equalization).
• Installed a 60A Renogy DC-DC charger in the rear electrical panel, between the chassis batteries and the house battery circuits (200A alternator connected to the chassis batteries).
• Rewired the oem 80w solar panel to charge the chassis batteries, instead of the house batteries (keeps the chassis batteries charged will parked).

Pros

• The battery output is amazingly stable, no flickering or dimming of lights when high loads are turned on or off, unlike with the lead acid batteries.
• The battery output amperage is amazing. We can run our microwave or convection oven for 30mins to bake pizzas for dinner without issue. The only thing we don't run off the battery are the rooftop A/C units, and the electric hot water heat (use propane instead).
• The battery charges quickly, easily recharging during a travel day off the 60A DC-DC charger, and even faster (100A) when plugged in or running the generator. One time when travelling we had the generator running to operate the A/Cs and were getting a combined 160A charging from both the DC-DC and converter.
• In normal to warm weather the battery remains at optimal usage temps. generally between 20c and 30c in the service bay, even when it is cooler outside.
• The bluetooth BMS is a must-have for this simple configuration. With it I can monitor charge/discharge cycles/values, set warning notifications for certain events (cell over/under-charge cutoff, high/low temp cutoff, etc.). I am also able to manually disable charging using the app. if I want the battery to remain at say 70% charge because the coach will be parked for a week or two until the next use. I can also completely disable the battery input/output for storage. Without the BMS, I'd need to add a smart shunt, at the least.
• Using the tiny 80A (when it was new, 25 years ago!) solar panel to charge the chassis battery is working really nicely, at least in the peak summer months. I can park the rig, leave the chassis battery disconnect connected, and not worry about the chassis battery dying (of course, I can't leave the headlights on or anything with load).
• With the house battery installed next to the converter in the service bay I am able to repurpose it's tray in the semi-sheltered battery compartment which I now use for storing extra fluids (oil, anti-freeze, etc.) and filters.

Cons / Issues

• When I first configured the Freedom 20 converter/inverter I used a lightly higher voltage charge profile; 14.4v absorption, 13.8v float. This caused a couple of high-temp shutoff events on the BMS itself, reaching 80.6c. It also had a cell high voltage cutoff event. I think the BMS could use improved airflow over its cooler for sure. Lowering the inverter charge voltage profile to 14.1v absorption, 13.8v float has eliminated both of those issued thus far.
• The way the Freedom 20 converter works, when plugged in to shore or generator power, it actually doesn't provide 12v DC power other than via the battery charger. So if I manually turn off the charger, all 12v DC power is supplied from the battery alone. If I charge the battery and leave the charger on, it reduces the 12v DC output from the battery to 0 amps while it is charging, but eventually it lowers or stops charging current enough that the battery is once again providing the bulk of the 12v DC power. This isn't a deal-breaker, but it does mean I need to keep at least a half-open eye on my battery charge level while plugged in for multiple days in a row and eventually initiate the charger to recharge it. I suppose the converter would automatically enter a new charge cycle when the battery voltage got low enough, but I haven't witnessed this occurring yet so am not certain that it would do so before the BMS low-voltage cutoff would kick in.
• Having no boost solenoid means that I have no way to charge the chassis battery from the house battery. The solar panel negates this requirement, at least so far in the summer months. If I ever do flatten the chassis battery by leaving the headlights on or something, I can use jumper cables to provide a boost charge to the chassis to try to recover them before attempting to start as a temporary measure. Or get a boost from another vehicle/toad vehicle.

Overall I'm very pleased with my results thus far. The system is probably slightly more labour intensive in terms of my needing to manage the battery via the BMS app regularily than a complete new install with smart shunts, proper modern LiFePO4 charger, etc. would be (or maybe those would be worse, actually?), but I don't mind it at all and I love the attributes of the LiFeP04 battery (100% charge/discharge, zero physical maintenance, fast charge/discharge, stable output even under load, etc. etc.)

[John C]

Tom, I will review those post, it will take me a while 😀

Thank you!

[MJ.STIGER]

@John C i am looking at doing the Lithium upgrade as well. And @RoadTripper2084 did post some good information.

Maybe he can weight in that would give us both some bit of info. Looks like your engine bay is similar to mine. And all the OEM isolators and Maintainers are located to the right. Posted a photo of what i think @RoadTripper2084 spoke about removing.

But not sure of all the parts and pieces? 

I like the idea of having the ability to revert to the old system aka batteries as factory like Tom mentioned. With all the relays and Fuses i think their might be a way to disconnect in the event of having to revert back. 

 

 

[MJ.STIGER]

So after reading a bit more and watching some videos. I think i have a better understanding of the BIM vs DC to DC charger.

And my thought is to go with a DC to DC charger Likely Victron.  And just run wiring Battery Leads from Coach Batteries to House Battery Bay and install the DC to DC charger their. With my type of trips that i take i can see this being more useful and Nicer to the lithium batteries of my choice. With more controls over the charging profile. Where i think the BIM will do an OK job their is not much to it other than charge for an amount of time then stop charging with out getting the house batteries up to snuff. 

I do like the idea of running a Noco plugged into the block heater outlet at the back of the coach to keep the coach batteries up to par while on 110v.

I think it comes down two disconnecting the Big Boy Relay and Isolator relay board.  My firs thought is just remove the Fuse or Unplug the Molex connector and that would disable it. But not sure if it would throw any other Errors in the system?

Then i can keep all the OEM gear in place incase i wanted to revert or sell to someone that did not want the expense of Lithium.   

[Tom Cherry]

10 hours ago, MJ.STIGER said:

@John C i am looking at doing the Lithium upgrade as well. And @RoadTripper2084 did post some good information.

Maybe he can weight in that would give us both some bit of info. Looks like your engine bay is similar to mine. And all the OEM isolators and Maintainers are located to the right. Posted a photo of what i think @RoadTripper2084 spoke about removing.

But not sure of all the parts and pieces? 

I like the idea of having the ability to revert to the old system aka batteries as factory like Tom mentioned. With all the relays and Fuses i think their might be a way to disconnect in the event of having to revert back. 

 

 

Comment from the cheap seats.  Back to basics.  We have had posts where individuals or techs had done upgrades or “fixes”….and then, sometimes quickly, other times later on, ghostly problems or major issues occur. Then there is a post or serious plea for help.  We have many “problem solvers” here.  However, the majority of the time, solving, satisfactorily, without prints or one-one offline…or even visiting and troubleshooting is impossible.

The first step is to determine which version you have.  If you have prints in your manual, great.  If not, we have 2005 Exec prints in the file.  The major revision to the 2006 Dynasty/Imperial and up was complex.  I know some, maybe a lot, but….very little compared to a few here. The Big Boy (center big solenoid) is the first thing to identify and fully understand from the prints….how it works.

NOW….assuming the photograph is the REAR RUN BAY (the remote start switch is usually in the rear) you appear to have the “older” system and NOT the massive 2006 updates.  However, notice all the “stuff” as in custom circuit boards and such.  

My original recommendation to check the Disconnect Switches for two small wires as well as the two large cables still stands. When you are on 50 Amp service or have the Generator on or running the engine, odds are that Big Boy should be very hot to the touch and humming or vibrating.  That means it is “energized” and your BIRD control system is working.  Whether the contacts are burned and you actually have charging current flowing is a secondary issue, but not germane.

Now….disconnect the small wires on each switch.  Reapply power or start the engine or the generator.  The Big Boy should NOT be energized.

That is the first step in what you are doing and also your education. Now, print out the correct print which shows the disconnects and the “control” wires you disconnected.  Then use a “red liner” and mark on the prints what you did.  That is the only way that most of us can assist you in the future.  In order to troubleshoot and analyze, we have to have Marked Prints.

NOW….your plans are great.  But, in order for them to executed correctly and NOT totally destroy an electrical system with many NOT AVAILABLE NOW components, you need to learn to read and understand each step and what you need to do to accomplish your goal. Unfortunately some folks have read…cut the x color wire, then the Y color wire and splice them.  They did that based on “I read it on the internet”.  Then we get topics requesting assistance…and some costly mistakes have been made.  More often than we like…..

It is impossible to trouble shoot a revised configuration without marked prints or documentation.  Likewise, if you ever have issues, then a qualified Tech will need them.  Bottom line….study the prints….understand the circuits…identify the wires and components…..mark up a print or draw your own schematic….THEN START TO INSTALL.

We have many members here that can assist you….PM them and work with them. Then, if there is a problem, help is available….

I write this as a “Moderator” who also helps in problem solving.  Many of our experts like a challenge…many don’t, but will help with marked prints.

Good Luck….keep us posted.  Pictures of the install….and your staged progress and later the marked prints will help others…

 

[Grey Goose]

13 hours ago, MJ.STIGER said:

So after reading a bit more and watching some videos. I think i have a better understanding of the BIM vs DC to DC charger.

And my thought is to go with a DC to DC charger Likely Victron.  And just run wiring Battery Leads from Coach Batteries to House Battery Bay and install the DC to DC charger their. With my type of trips that i take i can see this being more useful and Nicer to the lithium batteries of my choice. With more controls over the charging profile. Where i think the BIM will do an OK job their is not much to it other than charge for an amount of time then stop charging with out getting the house batteries up to snuff. 

I do like the idea of running a Noco plugged into the block heater outlet at the back of the coach to keep the coach batteries up to par while on 110v.

I think it comes down two disconnecting the Big Boy Relay and Isolator relay board.  My firs thought is just remove the Fuse or Unplug the Molex connector and that would disable it. But not sure if it would throw any other Errors in the system?

Then i can keep all the OEM gear in place incase i wanted to revert or sell to someone that did not want the expense of Lithium.   

Yours rear panel and big boy looks very familiar to my 2007 Imperial. Do you have an Aladin system kn your rig? The reason I ask is I like to use my Alladin to monitor charging while driving.

Also my Victron DC/DC charger does not have good enough range to monitor status from my mobile device while I am driving.

[MJ.STIGER]

@Grey Goose yes i do have the Aladin system. Did not think about the monitoring of Voltage while Driving aspect.  

My understanding is the the Big Boy is the contactor between both House and Chassis. So in theory if the the Big Boy is not making contact between the two. There is no Charging via alternator . 

Aladin should still show voltage of both House and Chassis. And if running a DC/DC charger you should still see both voltages on Aladin. And would have to check the Victron to see the status. 

May i ask how you added your DC/DC charger and did you remove the function of the Big Boy?

[Tom Cherry]

1 minute ago, MJ.STIGER said:

@Grey Goose yes i do have the Aladin system. Did not think about the monitoring of Voltage while Driving aspect.  

My understanding is the the Big Boy is the contactor between both House and Chassis. So in theory if the the Big Boy is not making contact between the two. There is no Charging via alternator . 

Aladin should still show voltage of both House and Chassis. And if running a DC/DC charger you should still see both voltages on Aladin. And would have to check the Victron to see the status. 

May i ask how you added your DC/DC charger and did you remove the function of the Big Boy?

YES and NO.  The Big Boy is part of the BIRD (BiDirectional) charging system. It is activated by a control board.  You can chase the two control wires to that board. That board is powered or depends on TWO signals....one from each of the Disconnect Switches. If you TURN OFF a Disconnect...that KILLS the BIRD system. We have had MANY folks mistakenly THINK that the BIRD system will work with ONE of the banks disconnected.  NOPE...that board is a SPECIAL (out of production) Intellitec CUSTOM board for Monaco.

So, the BIRD system works either way.  YES...if there is NO CURRENT being passed from the Alternator to the House....then, assuming that the BIRD Control Board is activating (pulsing it), there is a PROBLEM.  BUT, it is BiDirectional... The first TEST or your Troubleshooting is to follow what I posted.  If the Genny is running or you have 50 Amp, odds are, HIGH that the Big Boy is humming and hot.  BUT, the way to test is to start the engine.  Put a load on the HOUSE....say the Microwave for a few seconds with a cup of water. If the BIG Boy is HUMMING, it should put in enough power to run it.  OR WITH POWER from any source...turn OFF one disconnect.  THEN WAIT....turn it back on.  You should hear a LOUD CLUNK (put you hand on the Big Boy)...that means the board is working and the coil is good.  You need a VOM, assuming that is working, to measure the Voltage.  That will tell you is the contacts are OK.  Measure one side to GROUND....then the OTHER.  The Voltage should be within 0.1 VDC.  OR, put the VOM on DC and then measure across the terminals. There should be ZERO Volts or maybe less than 1/10th drop.  MORE....the contacts are BAD...

That's it. This is the thing that is most important is to read the manual and understand HOW each system works...before you modify....

 

[Grey Goose]

53 minutes ago, MJ.STIGER said:

@Grey Goose yes i do have the Aladin system. Did not think about the monitoring of Voltage while Driving aspect.  

My understanding is the the Big Boy is the contactor between both House and Chassis. So in theory if the the Big Boy is not making contact between the two. There is no Charging via alternator . 

Aladin should still show voltage of both House and Chassis. And if running a DC/DC charger you should still see both voltages on Aladin. And would have to check the Victron to see the status. 

May i ask how you added your DC/DC charger and did you remove the function of the Big Boy?

I removed one small wire on the big boy. Then wired the DC to DC charger direct to batteries. I still can see house battery voltage through the Aladin but not amperage from the DC to DC charger.

[MJ.STIGER]

That makes sense the wire that triggers the relay. So Everything  is intact incase you had to revert. Smart thinking. I think was over thinking this. 
Did you change out your Inverter/Charger or are you using the Xantrex one that was existing on your coach? 

 

[RoadTripper2084]

My rig is an older model (97) and is quite different in terms of where and how the two battery circuits are connected. I didn't have a BiRD board, so my house batteries were connected to both:

• the Big Boy solenoid which only engaged when the "Boost" button was pressed on the dash to provide temporary connection between the two circuits.
• the oem battery isolator, which as far as I understood it would connect the circuits when the onboard charger was charging, but not certain of its actual implementation (it was  basically a couple of large diodes, I believe).

I believe with your system the BiRD board decides when to connect the house circuit to the chassis and then uses the Big Boy solenoid to actually make the connection. Though I am certainly not sure about this.

In any case, your thinking above sounds logical to me, disabling the BiRD, or perhaps even just the Big Boy solenoid, by disconnecting the control wire(s) should be sufficient (and easily undone). Then installing the DC-DC charger between the two battery circuits directly.

If you have any rooftop solar panels you'll also want to confirm how they are connected.  On mine if I remember correctly the panel/charger was wired to both circuits originally, I believe, but I moved it to solely charge the chassis batteries.

You will want to confirm this configuration by checking the relevant wiring diagrams for you coach, and then once you have disabled the BiRD/Big Boy solenoid via verifying that you see no voltage spike on the chassis batteries when the house batteries are being charged via your converter (when plugged in to shore power or via the generator running). You can do this with your existing house batteries in place, before you swap them out. The voltage of the chassis batteries should not change when charging the house batteries via the converter. Similarly, before installing the DC-DC charger, but with the BiRD/Big Boy disabled, when driving you should see the voltage spike on the chassis batteries due to being charged by the alternator, but no change on the house batteries which should now be completely disconnected from the chassis circuit.

 

Edited February 5 by RoadTripper2084

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, MJ.STIGER said:

That makes sense the wire that triggers the relay. So Everything  is intact incase you had to revert. Smart thinking. I think was over thinking this. 
Did you change out your Inverter/Charger or are you using the Xantrex one that was existing on your coach? 

 

Yes, pulling both is preferable. The coil doesn’t know polarity. The boost switch is obviously dead, as there if no “full” 12 VDC to fully energize the Big Boy. However, if you want to totally disable the entire BIRD circuit, pull both control wires on each disconnect. That also protects the board from a short.

NOW….IF YOU pull the Big Boy wires, avoid the pitfall to try to use them as a “boost” for a relay driven “boost” signal to an ML-ACR. Those two wires would, when you pushed the BATT BOOST switch, send a full 12 VDC to a relay to do a “manual” boost.  OPPS…they also, assuming the Intellitec control board is functioning, will send a constant 8 VDC “pulsed” signal.  Most relays would work or maybe “chatter”, so you would have an intermittent “Boost”.

It is a seemingly minor event, but unless you understand that function and signals, one can create an issue..disable either way, but avoid trying to utilize a circuit who characteristics are unknown or overlooked.

[Grey Goose]

2 hours ago, MJ.STIGER said:

That makes sense the wire that triggers the relay. So Everything  is intact incase you had to revert. Smart thinking. I think was over thinking this. 
Did you change out your Inverter/Charger or are you using the Xantrex one that was existing on your coach? 

 

I am using the factory Magnum MS2812, with a late release ME-ARC remote that includes a lithium as well as CC/CV and custom battery profiles. But I am not happy with the charging cycles and plan to add a Magnum BMK when I get home from Texas in a couple weeks.

I also took the factory solar controller and wired it so it only charges the chassis batteries.

Edited February 5 by Grey Goose

[MJ.STIGER]

I have a bit older Xantrex unit Not much for programing that i am aware of at the moment. I am thinking about the Victron 12 | 3000 MultiPex II. After looking at the cost its not as bad as expected. I need to check wiring. but i think it will be a pretty close swap out. I do need to check foot print. But figure that might be a latter this year project. 

[JDCrow]

18 minutes ago, MJ.STIGER said:

I have a bit older Xantrex unit Not much for programing that i am aware of at the moment. I am thinking about the Victron 12 | 3000 MultiPex II. After looking at the cost its not as bad as expected. I need to check wiring. but i think it will be a pretty close swap out. I do need to check foot print. But figure that might be a latter this year project. 

Did this swap on my Dip. You can search for it. If your Xantrax had 2 legs coming out like mine did, you’ll want to figure out how to deal with it as 1 goes to a circuit of plugs and the other the microwave. 

[MJ.STIGER]

I think the Victron has 2 x 120 outputs? Have not dug into that part of the swap yet. 

 

[RoadTripper2084]

AZ Expert just posted a timely video showing how he did his conversion on his 2000? Beaver, while keeping his OEM Magnun inverter.

Note that people in the comments have noted issues with the reliability of the Lithium Battery Isolation Manager he uses causes their house and chassis batteries to become fully drained, so I would recommend going the DC-DC charger route instead.

https://youtu.be/-3sHpgQK2R4

Edited February 7 by RoadTripper2084

[MJ.STIGER]

I think the DC to DC is the better way togo as well. Your going to spend the same amount for the BMI or DC-DC so go with the better of the two.