Going HIGH TECH….2007 Dynasty. New Inverter Charger and Lithiums and such. Questions??” and Help Needed.

[JDCrow]

On 2/5/2024 at 10:03 PM, MJ.STIGER said:

I think the Victron has 2 x 120 outputs? Have not dug into that part of the swap yet. 

 

Yes, but what does your Xantrax have? Sorry I not responding quickly. If you quote me in your response, I’m alerted that I need to get off my butt

So the only issue I have run into with the DC-DC charger is for those who run their genset while underway to power the ACs. You will have to turn the Dc-Dc charger off if you run the genset and engine at the same time. You would be essentially charging the batteries from 2  different sources at the same time. My Victron shut completely down and stated I had a “ripple” which I dug into but really only understood that the two chargers interfered with each other and the System just shut down to protect its self. 
 

Turning Dc~Dc off is easy in the Victron App

[RoadTripper2084]

15 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

Yes, but what does your Xantrax have? Sorry I not responding quickly. If you quote me in your response, I’m alerted that I need to get off my butt

So the only issue I have run into with the DC-DC charger is for those who run their genset while underway to power the ACs. You will have to turn the Dc-Dc charger off if you run the genset and engine at the same time. You would be essentially charging the batteries from 2  different sources at the same time. My Victron shut completely down and stated I had a “ripple” which I dug into but really only understood that the two chargers interfered with each other and the System just shut down to protect its self. 
 

Turning Dc~Dc off is easy in the Victron App

That is interesting, I remember when you posted about that previously.  With my rig, I have not seen that issue, but I am using the older Heart Interface 2000 converter with a Renogy 60A DC-DC charger.  One time I checked my BMS app and I was charging the battery at a full 160A using both the converter and DC-DC charger.  I would have assumed that the converter might cut out when it detected the higher voltage on the line put out by the DC-DC, and indeed, it probably does eventually. So this issue might be specific to a particular setup.  In any case, easy enough to manage by turning off the converter charger when underway if necessary (or the DC-DC if your has a way to do that easily).

 

Edited February 7 by RoadTripper2084

[JDCrow]

10 minutes ago, RoadTripper2084 said:

That is interesting, I remember when you posted about that previously.  With my rig, I have not seen that issue, but I am using the older Heart Interface 2000 converter with a Renogy 60A DC-DC charger.  One time I checked my BMS app and I was charging the battery at a full 160A using both the converter and DC-DC charger.  I would have assumed that the converter might cut out when it detected the higher voltage on the line put out by the DC-DC, and indeed, it probably does eventually. So this issue might be specific to a particular setup.  In any case, easy enough to manage by turning off the converter charger when underway if necessary (or the DC-DC if your has a way to do that easily).

 

Yeah I probably is isolated to the Victron Multiplus and DC-DC. I wish I knew more about or at least could understand electronics. My grandfather was an incredible guy who built his own Ham radios out of tubes, none of those genes seemed to get passed on to me 

[Grey Goose]

6 hours ago, JDCrow said:

Yes, but what does your Xantrax have? Sorry I not responding quickly. If you quote me in your response, I’m alerted that I need to get off my butt

So the only issue I have run into with the DC-DC charger is for those who run their genset while underway to power the ACs. You will have to turn the Dc-Dc charger off if you run the genset and engine at the same time. You would be essentially charging the batteries from 2  different sources at the same time. My Victron shut completely down and stated I had a “ripple” which I dug into but really only understood that the two chargers interfered with each other and the System just shut down to protect its self. 
 

Turning Dc~Dc off is easy in the Victron App

Disappointing that the two Victron chargers do not play nice with each other. I will say that I am very disappointed with the bluetooth range on the Victron DC to DC charger that I have. I have several battery powered bluetooth temp monitors that have much better range.

[JDCrow]

1 minute ago, Grey Goose said:

Disappointing that the two Victron chargers do not play nice with each other. I will say that I am very disappointed with the bluetooth range on the Victron DC to DC charger that I have. I have several battery powered bluetooth temp monitors that have much better range.

Well I’m not sure how you charge a battery from two different sources at once. I mean, I never stick 2 chargers in a battery. 
 

I don’t have two bad a range in the charger, but will be upgrading to the touch screen inside this spring. 

[Grey Goose]

48 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

Well I’m not sure how you charge a battery from two different sources at once. I mean, I never stick 2 chargers in a battery. 
 

I don’t have two bad a range in the charger, but will be upgrading to the touch screen inside this spring. 

Two chargers in parallel is theoretically possible and is not uncommon in large dc power plants. Also many DC to DC  chargers advertise that you can you multiple units in parallel to increase capacity.

Edited February 8 by Grey Goose

[John C]

On 2/4/2024 at 6:54 PM, MJ.STIGER said:

@John C i am looking at doing the Lithium upgrade as well. And @RoadTripper2084 did post some good information.

Maybe he can weight in that would give us both some bit of info. Looks like your engine bay is similar to mine. And all the OEM isolators and Maintainers are located to the right. Posted a photo of what i think @RoadTripper2084 spoke about removing.

But not sure of all the parts and pieces? 

I like the idea of having the ability to revert to the old system aka batteries as factory like Tom mentioned. With all the relays and Fuses i think their might be a way to disconnect in the event of having to revert back. 

 

 

@MJ.STIGER could you please point out where is my OEM isolators and Maintainers ? I am having a hard time to identify those two. Also I can't find my Bird, no in my compartment under the driver seat.

On 2/5/2024 at 5:45 AM, Tom Cherry said:

Comment from the cheap seats.  Back to basics.  We have had posts where individuals or techs had done upgrades or “fixes”….and then, sometimes quickly, other times later on, ghostly problems or major issues occur. Then there is a post or serious plea for help.  We have many “problem solvers” here.  However, the majority of the time, solving, satisfactorily, without prints or one-one offline…or even visiting and troubleshooting is impossible.

The first step is to determine which version you have.  If you have prints in your manual, great.  If not, we have 2005 Exec prints in the file.  The major revision to the 2006 Dynasty/Imperial and up was complex.  I know some, maybe a lot, but….very little compared to a few here. The Big Boy (center big solenoid) is the first thing to identify and fully understand from the prints….how it works.

NOW….assuming the photograph is the REAR RUN BAY (the remote start switch is usually in the rear) you appear to have the “older” system and NOT the massive 2006 updates.  However, notice all the “stuff” as in custom circuit boards and such.  

My original recommendation to check the Disconnect Switches for two small wires as well as the two large cables still stands. When you are on 50 Amp service or have the Generator on or running the engine, odds are that Big Boy should be very hot to the touch and humming or vibrating.  That means it is “energized” and your BIRD control system is working.  Whether the contacts are burned and you actually have charging current flowing is a secondary issue, but not germane.

Now….disconnect the small wires on each switch.  Reapply power or start the engine or the generator.  The Big Boy should NOT be energized.

That is the first step in what you are doing and also your education. Now, print out the correct print which shows the disconnects and the “control” wires you disconnected.  Then use a “red liner” and mark on the prints what you did.  That is the only way that most of us can assist you in the future.  In order to troubleshoot and analyze, we have to have Marked Prints.

NOW….your plans are great.  But, in order for them to executed correctly and NOT totally destroy an electrical system with many NOT AVAILABLE NOW components, you need to learn to read and understand each step and what you need to do to accomplish your goal. Unfortunately some folks have read…cut the x color wire, then the Y color wire and splice them.  They did that based on “I read it on the internet”.  Then we get topics requesting assistance…and some costly mistakes have been made.  More often than we like…..

It is impossible to trouble shoot a revised configuration without marked prints or documentation.  Likewise, if you ever have issues, then a qualified Tech will need them.  Bottom line….study the prints….understand the circuits…identify the wires and components…..mark up a print or draw your own schematic….THEN START TO INSTALL.

We have many members here that can assist you….PM them and work with them. Then, if there is a problem, help is available….

I write this as a “Moderator” who also helps in problem solving.  Many of our experts like a challenge…many don’t, but will help with marked prints.

Good Luck….keep us posted.  Pictures of the install….and your staged progress and later the marked prints will help others…

 

Hi,Tom, 

Could you please elaborate on " Disconnect Switches for two small wires as well as the two large cables still stands" where are those two small wires & two large cables?.

Also when you talk about the prints, are you talking about the electric wire diagram? if so, do you have one for 2007 Dynasty?

Thank you.

[MJ.STIGER]

@John C I think your big it relay and bird are behind this panel. 

[Tom Cherry]

8 hours ago, John C said:

@MJ.STIGER could you please point out where is my OEM isolators and Maintainers ? I am having a hard time to identify those two. Also I can't find my Bird, no in my compartment under the driver seat.

Hi,Tom, 

Could you please elaborate on " Disconnect Switches for two small wires as well as the two large cables still stands" where are those two small wires & two large cables?.

Also when you talk about the prints, are you talking about the electric wire diagram? if so, do you have one for 2007 Dynasty?

Thank you.

John,

First.....your 2007 Dynasty is NOT the same as the 2005 Executive....  FWIW, the Dynasty and UP ALL use the same "Electrical Systems".  The higher ends like the Signatures will have some additional electrical "systems", but the prints for a Dynasty or Executive or Signature are BASICALLY THE SAME.

What is different......and this is important for you to understand....is that the major electrical upgrade in 2006 (some late 2005) is totally different from the earlier systems...  2005 and older.  NOW, yes, some are, but the revisions were major....really major...so be aware that what folks did in older ones MAY NOT work on yours.  The basics might....

You manual show all the components and where they are located....  USE IT...   The location, with pictures, of the Front and Rear Run Bays (electrical areas) is on page 214. 

Second, the "BIRD" is the incorrect name or nomenclature for what you are looking for. BIRD is the name of the "SYSTEM".  There is NOT a component marked as BIRD.  You want to find the Big Boy Solenoid that is part of a BIRD system. It is NOT in the Front Run Bay.  READ ON...and I will identify and show you where it is...BUT....lets stick to basics.....

The "Chassis" electrical system (Section 9)  is more complex, than the 2005 Executive.  That is what you are going to "MODIFY" and go HIGH TECH on. The first comment is to do some research and you have, assuming you have your manual, a very complete "PRIMER".  If you can not locate or don't understand what each of the components do and how they work in the MH, then purchasing equipment and installing....without having the "PRINT" as in the Wiring Diagrams could lead to unintended consequences and damage to components that would basically "IMMOBILIZE" your motor home. 

You should ALSO read Section 8, House Electrical System. You have the Intellitec Multiplex CPU (Central Processing Unit or "Brain" or COMPUTER) system. The 2005 Executive does NOT. However, if you get advice that suggests that you "DISCONNECT" or do some bypassing of the House Salesman's Solenoid...  THAT IS NOT ADVISED for your MH. Lots of reasons and not germane.  BUT, you must understand what systems you have

OK....Prints or Electrical Wiring Diagrams....  Here is the link....  Download BOTH FILES...  One is the Index...  several pages of Drawing Numbers and descriptions.  This is what you look at first.

The second is the LARGE or all the Wiring Diagrams.  

In order for you to find what you are looking for, you need to open this file and scroll down to page 127....there are 214 pages here.  THAT is the "layout" showing the components of the Rear Run Bay (in the BIG BOX in the Engine Compartment).  Read the REST after the LINK

REMEMBER....the 2007 Dynasty and UP is the same....so this Signature File will work. You may NOT have some of the "Signature ONLY" features and the drawing are labeled for those as well as the Executive...but Monaco included ALL of them in the manuals as well as the CD's that they mailed out....

 

OK....someone said....pull the wires...as in the control wires. EASIER on some models than yours.  The Big Boy solenoid in the large component in the drawing.  You have to pull, I THINK, the unit OUT....just to get to the bottom "control" wire.  SO, pulling BOTH would be a PAIN.  Yes, Most likely, pulling the TOP wire should disable it.  

Now Look at the PRINT (again) you will see Board  R6 on the right. This is one of the many boards that are no longer available.  

My advise to you still stands.  DO NOT start randomly pulling wires until you have identified them on the prints.

In your case, the safest way to DISABLE your BIRD SYSTEM is to remove the two small control wires on the back of each of the Battery Disconnect Switches.  Look on page 194 of the manual.  That HOUSE DISCONNECT switch (on the back side) has TWO large CABLES...  There are also two small terminals with wires.  Remove the small wires.  Tape over them to insulate.  

Do that for the CHASSIS DISCONNECT switch as well. You have turned OFF the power for the BIRD system.  Board R6 NOW has no power...and will not energize the Big Boy Solenoid.

NOW....somewhere in the first posts, there was a discussion of "BOOST" and BIRD Charging.  I am NOT the Lithium Expert...but the concern is that IF you charge the Lithium's from the Alternator, then you may damage them. Disabling the BIRD System eliminates that problem. BUT, if you figure out some way to make it work, I would NOT modify or do anything to the Monaco system.

That is what the ML-ACR by Blue Seas was recommended.  If you install that, you WILL have to removed the BIg Boy solenoid and get the cables off it... and then install the ML-ACR...but that is a decision down the road.

That's it.  This answers BOTH your questions.

Good Luck...

[BradBak]

On 2/1/2024 at 9:54 PM, John C said:

I have not disconnected the house battery yet, but just from outside I didn't see any wire directly connect the chassis battery to the house battery. how do you eliminate the connection between house battery chassis battery?

Thanks

Where is  big boy combiner located? I didn't see anywhere, no in the compartment next to the driver seat(where you have the switch to move the generator in & out)

I just watched a video on YouTube about what you are talking about this. It was AZ Expert and the video was (What You NEED to Know About Adding Lithium Batteries to Your RV)

[John C]

On 2/5/2024 at 5:45 AM, Tom Cherry said:

Comment from the cheap seats.  Back to basics.  We have had posts where individuals or techs had done upgrades or “fixes”….and then, sometimes quickly, other times later on, ghostly problems or major issues occur. Then there is a post or serious plea for help.  We have many “problem solvers” here.  However, the majority of the time, solving, satisfactorily, without prints or one-one offline…or even visiting and troubleshooting is impossible.

The first step is to determine which version you have.  If you have prints in your manual, great.  If not, we have 2005 Exec prints in the file.  The major revision to the 2006 Dynasty/Imperial and up was complex.  I know some, maybe a lot, but….very little compared to a few here. The Big Boy (center big solenoid) is the first thing to identify and fully understand from the prints….how it works.

NOW….assuming the photograph is the REAR RUN BAY (the remote start switch is usually in the rear) you appear to have the “older” system and NOT the massive 2006 updates.  However, notice all the “stuff” as in custom circuit boards and such.  

My original recommendation to check the Disconnect Switches for two small wires as well as the two large cables still stands. When you are on 50 Amp service or have the Generator on or running the engine, odds are that Big Boy should be very hot to the touch and humming or vibrating.  That means it is “energized” and your BIRD control system is working.  Whether the contacts are burned and you actually have charging current flowing is a secondary issue, but not germane.

Now….disconnect the small wires on each switch.  Reapply power or start the engine or the generator.  The Big Boy should NOT be energized.

That is the first step in what you are doing and also your education. Now, print out the correct print which shows the disconnects and the “control” wires you disconnected.  Then use a “red liner” and mark on the prints what you did.  That is the only way that most of us can assist you in the future.  In order to troubleshoot and analyze, we have to have Marked Prints.

NOW….your plans are great.  But, in order for them to executed correctly and NOT totally destroy an electrical system with many NOT AVAILABLE NOW components, you need to learn to read and understand each step and what you need to do to accomplish your goal. Unfortunately some folks have read…cut the x color wire, then the Y color wire and splice them.  They did that based on “I read it on the internet”.  Then we get topics requesting assistance…and some costly mistakes have been made.  More often than we like…..

It is impossible to trouble shoot a revised configuration without marked prints or documentation.  Likewise, if you ever have issues, then a qualified Tech will need them.  Bottom line….study the prints….understand the circuits…identify the wires and components…..mark up a print or draw your own schematic….THEN START TO INSTALL.

We have many members here that can assist you….PM them and work with them. Then, if there is a problem, help is available….

I write this as a “Moderator” who also helps in problem solving.  Many of our experts like a challenge…many don’t, but will help with marked prints.

Good Luck….keep us posted.  Pictures of the install….and your staged progress and later the marked prints will help others…

 

Wow!

I wish Monaco didn't implement this "C***" electric system!!!

Looks like it is well more completed than necessary, When I was a software engineer many year ago, I witnessed so the people who were very good at creating a very complicated system in order to solve a very simple problem, that way so no one understand in order to prove how "smart" they were!!!

Those people are everywhere!

 

22 hours ago, MJ.STIGER said:

@John C I think your big it relay and bird are behind this panel. 

Thank you!

I will take a look at it tomorrow..

 

[Tom Cherry]

11 hours ago, BradBak said:

I just watched a video on YouTube about what you are talking about this. It was AZ Expert and the video was (What You NEED to Know About Adding Lithium Batteries to Your RV)

Brad,

Welcome to the world of "OMG....what did I do?".  Don't know whether this is your first MH or your experience level.  Also suggest you read, assuming you have it, the manual on the electrical systems in your Monarch. 

All the comments in this topic are based on the upper ends.  Your Monarch is a little different.  Suggest you read both House and Chassis "Electrical" sections.

You have a "Converter", if I read the manual correctly, that is designed to keep the House Batteries charged. There is also an "OPTIONAL" INVERTER to provide AC power to the TV. It is NOT the typical Inverter/Charger that most here have. 

There also appears to be some type of "dual charging" system....not very well described.... When the Chassis Batteries reach 13.5 VDC, then there is a Solenoid that closes and the House is charged as you drive.  That Solenoid is also, most likely, the Battery Boost Solenoid...assuming you have a BATT BOOST switch..

There is a good diagram in the manual...and all the functions and interactions are covered.  However, your manual does a GREAT job of explaining how a 12 Bosch Relay works.  That is very clear.

Based on what I read, you do NOT have a "BIRD" or BiDirectional system.  So, the Chassis Battery is only charged when you drive and NOT when you are on AC (or Genny) power. Knowing how this works is imperative for storage.

If I read correctly, your "Converter" or charger is not suitable for Lithiums.  Just passing this on.... BUT, if you decide to upgrade, there is a GREAT DEAL of information here....and the one thing that always intrigues me is when you upgrade to House Lithiums...do folks add a BIRD system as in the Blue Seas ML-ACR...

Lots of things to learn....and we always are learning.

[John C]

I believe I have found a solution on how to work around the over complicated "Intellitec Multiplex" problem, I just don't want to mess around this system I don't understand.

What I want to do is

1) install 24v system (6 x100AH battleborn lithium battery, 24v Victron 3000 Inverter/Charger, , Solar charger etc.) on the storage compartment where the Magnum inverter is right now, replace the Magnum with my Victron inverter/charge.

The reason I am doing 24v system is because I already have the 24v Victron inverter/Charger from my old RV and that can't be changed.

2) The solar charger will only charge the lithium battery

3) This new 24 system will has nothing todo with the existing 12v system, this system is only to generate AC from the lithium battery when boondocking. All the existing 12v system can work the way it is without any change.

4A) Because I have enough lithium battery and solar, I will always (at least most of time) have AC when boondocking  which means the existing 110v to 12v system converter will constantly charge the existing acid battery.

Or

4B) I could just install a  24v to 12v converter on the 24v system and from the output (12v) of the 24v to 12v converter, pull a wire directly to the existing acid battery to charge the acid battery, that way I can even remove the existing 110v to 12v converter.

I prefer 4B, because that will eliminate 110v to 12v converter, which means I don't need to convert from 24v->110v->12v, I directly convert from 24v->12v.

 

I would also like to install a DC to DC charger (12v to 24f) from the alternator output to charge the lithium battery, no sure if there is a wire from the alternator I can tap to. if this have to go through this overly engineered "Intellitec Multiplex" , then forget about it. However If there is a wire I can directly connect to my 12v to 24v DC to DC charger, please let me know.

Please comment.

Thank you

Edited February 10 by John C

[wamcneil]

If I were doing it again, I would go 24v. I think it’s just silly to have gigantic battery cables to deal with 3kw@12v amperage. 

Edited February 17 by wamcneil

[MJ.STIGER]

Never thought about 24V. but for my simple upgrade 12v it is. 

I will be completing the swap tomorrow on my 05.  Installing a DC/DC converter and a Charger for the Coach Batteries from the Engine heater plug. And will be removing the Trigger Wire on my Big Boy Relay. 

I will think it though if i change out my Inverter Maybe do another upgrade to 24v. But i dont boon dock much and the wiring is in place. 

[John C]

1 hour ago, wamcneil said:

If I were doing it again, I would go 24v. I think it’s just silly to have gigantic battery cables to deal with 3kw@12v amperage. 

One problem is I need 24v to 12v converter, On my previous coach, I have 24V system, I have two 24v to 12v converter tie together and connected to  the 12v system, about 50% of the time when I was leveling, I have to constantly reset the breaker because ever two 24v to 12v converter is no big enough to provide the current needed for the level jack...

 

57 minutes ago, MJ.STIGER said:

Never thought about 24V. but for my simple upgrade 12v it is. 

I will be completing the swap tomorrow on my 05.  Installing a DC/DC converter and a Charger for the Coach Batteries from the Engine heater plug. And will be removing the Trigger Wire on my Big Boy Relay. 

I will think it though if i change out my Inverter Maybe do another upgrade to 24v. But i dont boon dock much and the wiring is in place. 

If I don't boondock that much, I won't even spent the effort and money on lithium and solar .😀

 

[Tom Cherry]

7 hours ago, John C said:

One problem is I need 24v to 12v converter, On my previous coach, I have 24V system, I have two 24v to 12v converter tie together and connected to  the 12v system, about 50% of the time when I was leveling, I have to constantly reset the breaker because ever two 24v to 12v converter is no big enough to provide the current needed for the level jack...

 

If I don't boondock that much, I won't even spent the effort and money on lithium and solar .😀

 

John,

Please eliminate the BLACK format.

Second,

Are you saying that your 2007 Dynasty has a 24 VDC system or did I misunderstand you? Your Dynasty came with a 12 VDC system.  Please elaborate....this is confusing.

Thanks

[John C]

12 hours ago, John C said:

One problem is I need 24v to 12v converter, On my previous coach, I have 24V system, I have two 24v to 12v converter tie together and connected to  the 12v system, about 50% of the time when I was leveling, I have to constantly reset the breaker because ever two 24v to 12v converter is no big enough to provide the current needed for the level jack...

 

If I don't boondock that much, I won't even spent the effort and money on lithium and solar .😀

 

Sorry totally forgot to switch my Brower I will remember it next time.

My previous coach I was using 24v battery system( the coach is still 12v system) that is why I have the 24v Victroninverter/charger

 

2007 Dynasty is still 12v system. I was talking about 24v battery system and then use 24v to 12v converter to connect to the coach 12v system.

 

Now I am serious thinking bite the bullet and Buy another 12v Victron inverter/charger. But have the 24v for a/c only.

Now I will have 2 inverters, I will replace the Magnum inverter with 12V Victron Inverter(with 4 x 100AH batteries), I will then use the 24v victron Inverter for A/C only (2x 100AH batteries), the 24v battery system will have absolutely nothing to do with the coach's 12v system and it will be much clean this way and I never need to worry about blowup the system in case the 24V to 12 v converter failing, plus I will never going to have the problem of not enough AMPS when using 12v DC.

 

Because the coach is 50amps and it has two hot wires, I will connect the two wire outputs of my two Victron Inverters to the two hot wire inputs of the coach, that way I will always have a/c on both hot wires in the house.

What do you think?

Replace Acid batteries with Lithium.pdf

[RoadTripper2084]

2 hours ago, John C said:

Sorry totally forgot to switch my Brower I will remember it next time.

My previous coach I was using 24v battery system( the coach is still 12v system) that is why I have the 24v Victroninverter/charger

Wouldn't it make more sense to go to a 48v system then?  Aren't there far more options in terms of batteries and other components for 48v than 24v?

[Frank McElroy]

Another option to consider is to have the leveling jacks powered by the chassis 12 volt system instead of the house 24 to 12 volt converter..

[PTTech]

I've seen a few comments on eliminating the BIRD function of the BigBoy, but wanting to keep the boost to charge the chassis batteries. I saw this question at the bottom of this post in the Tech section. 

Any thoughts?

[Frank McElroy]

I posted a reply to the question.  You might want to consider replacing the big boy with a Blue Sea ML-ACR and add the dash switch option for manual control of battery boost and chassis battery charging when on shore power.

[John C]

13 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

Another option to consider is to have the leveling jacks powered by the chassis 12 volt system instead of the house 24 to 12 volt converter..

Actually my current 2007 Dynasty doesn't have level jack option.

It only have 3 hydraulic slideout.

Maybe the 24V to 12V converter will have enough AMPS for the slideout.

Maybe I just try using 24v battery system with 24V to 12V connecting to coach system first.

If that provides enough AMPs then I will keep the 24V system...

19 hours ago, RoadTripper2084 said:

Wouldn't it make more sense to go to a 48v system then?  Aren't there far more options in terms of batteries and other components for 48v than 24v?

I already have 6 100AH Battleborn batteries and 24V Victron inverter/charger from my previous coach, I am tryingto reuse what I already have right now.

IMO 600AH is not a lot of battery storage and 48V is probably overkill in my case.

[John C]

On 2/7/2024 at 10:44 AM, MJ.STIGER said:

I think the DC to DC is the better way togo as well. Your going to spend the same amount for the BMI or DC-DC so go with the better of the two. 

 

 

 

The only problem with DC to DC is is it is one directional, you won't be able to charge the chassis batteries from house batteries

On 2/5/2024 at 5:45 AM, Tom Cherry said:

Comment from the cheap seats.  Back to basics.  We have had posts where individuals or techs had done upgrades or “fixes”….and then, sometimes quickly, other times later on, ghostly problems or major issues occur. Then there is a post or serious plea for help.  We have many “problem solvers” here.  However, the majority of the time, solving, satisfactorily, without prints or one-one offline…or even visiting and troubleshooting is impossible.

The first step is to determine which version you have.  If you have prints in your manual, great.  If not, we have 2005 Exec prints in the file.  The major revision to the 2006 Dynasty/Imperial and up was complex.  I know some, maybe a lot, but….very little compared to a few here. The Big Boy (center big solenoid) is the first thing to identify and fully understand from the prints….how it works.

NOW….assuming the photograph is the REAR RUN BAY (the remote start switch is usually in the rear) you appear to have the “older” system and NOT the massive 2006 updates.  However, notice all the “stuff” as in custom circuit boards and such.  

My original recommendation to check the Disconnect Switches for two small wires as well as the two large cables still stands. When you are on 50 Amp service or have the Generator on or running the engine, odds are that Big Boy should be very hot to the touch and humming or vibrating.  That means it is “energized” and your BIRD control system is working.  Whether the contacts are burned and you actually have charging current flowing is a secondary issue, but not germane.

Now….disconnect the small wires on each switch.  Reapply power or start the engine or the generator.  The Big Boy should NOT be energized.

That is the first step in what you are doing and also your education. Now, print out the correct print which shows the disconnects and the “control” wires you disconnected.  Then use a “red liner” and mark on the prints what you did.  That is the only way that most of us can assist you in the future.  In order to troubleshoot and analyze, we have to have Marked Prints.

NOW….your plans are great.  But, in order for them to executed correctly and NOT totally destroy an electrical system with many NOT AVAILABLE NOW components, you need to learn to read and understand each step and what you need to do to accomplish your goal. Unfortunately some folks have read…cut the x color wire, then the Y color wire and splice them.  They did that based on “I read it on the internet”.  Then we get topics requesting assistance…and some costly mistakes have been made.  More often than we like…..

It is impossible to trouble shoot a revised configuration without marked prints or documentation.  Likewise, if you ever have issues, then a qualified Tech will need them.  Bottom line….study the prints….understand the circuits…identify the wires and components…..mark up a print or draw your own schematic….THEN START TO INSTALL.

We have many members here that can assist you….PM them and work with them. Then, if there is a problem, help is available….

I write this as a “Moderator” who also helps in problem solving.  Many of our experts like a challenge…many don’t, but will help with marked prints.

Good Luck….keep us posted.  Pictures of the install….and your staged progress and later the marked prints will help others…

 

@Tom Cherry My understanding is the Big Boy is a middleman between the chassis batteries and house batteries.

If I just disconnect the wire go in and out of the big boy and leave everything the way it is,  should that be enough to disable the whole bird system ? Why would I need to worry about the small wire in the disconnect switches (I don't even know where they are)

[Frank McElroy]

I doubt you'll find a reasonably priced 24 to 12 volt converter will have enough amps to run the slide hydraulic pump.  But, I'm surprised that the generator start and slide hydraulic pump are not operated from the chassis batteries.  If, not, reconfigure the RRB like an 08 Dynasty.  Also, on your coach, the slides can be closed with the ignition ON and the engine running.  When opening the slides the engine ignition must be OFF.