Ivan K Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 Don, If that ring is too gone to fix with a stone like Brad says, yes that part can be replaced, I have done it myself. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 1 hour ago, Donflem said: They said 13 hours to fix $2000 in parts. Ivan are you saying that I can just replace the slip rings$ 4500 hours on genny. BUMMER. However, finding the real problem and NOT being out $800 for a board, you probably would never need is the saving grace. I can’t, as I said before, advise you on the accuracy of the “quote or diagnostics”. However, and this is a GENERIC comment from the “STAFF” and not any comment, Don, on your situation. This entire process demonstrates what frustrates all the moderating staff. It takes knowledge and perseverance…..as well as the aptitude and the desire to LEARN….to prevent the “THROW IT ALL, as in $$$, against the wall and see if that fixes it”. We try to keep offering suggestions and also caution against “well, this fixed mine”. You have to narrow down the issues and nail down the problem. MY GUT, more than my technical knowledge of the internals of the generator said…..Mechanical/electrical issues….and NOT a control board…. So don’t grab at straws….and the constantly changing error codes were NOT typical of a bad control board. Don, I urge you to PM and then call folks like Ivan and others that have “been there….done that” and sort through this. The ONLY thing that is a bit elusive….you put in brushes a year ago….WHY have they failed or what actually, as one posted….GOING ON??? Shotgun is NOT limited to us DIY folks….so I’d get a second opinion. You actually have almost twice or at least 50% MORE charging capacity from the Engine than the Inverter. I’d run the engine with a jumper between the between the banks….or test the BIRD/Big Boy….to keep each bank topped off and let the engine charge the. Then, either do the simple fix(es) or get a second opinion…. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donflem Posted April 9 Author Share Posted April 9 Tom thank for the advice. I’m on my way back to my buddies shop in California so I can do the repair with him so I can learn more. I absolutely agree Tom tossing money at it doesn’t help. I’m trying to read and understand all the different fixes on this forum so I can do a lot of the repairs myself. I told my buddy how much Cummins wanted and he laughed. It’s cheaper to drive back to his shop and get it done. I’m retired now have to learn to fix things myself don’t have that just fix it money anymore. I will start DMing you guys more in the future. Thanks again for all your support. Don 19 hours ago, Ivan K said: Don, If that ring is too gone to fix with a stone like Brad says, yes that part can be replaced, I have done it myself. Ivan do I need to remove the generator to do that repair? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 (edited) Don, you need to have access from front of the generator. It is relatively easy access, even better with a slide. I am pretty certain my brush and ring issue (same of the two as yours) was due to desert dust, the whole generator part is cooled by unfiltered air, sucked from a bottom opening. Replace the bearing and it's oring since it has to be pulled anyway. I have done this at about 3500 hrs. Edited April 9 by Ivan K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diplomat don Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 (edited) Don you also listed stator-rotor in the things needed repair. If this is the case there is a place in Santa Fe Springs called Eurton Electric that rewinds rotor/stators. They did mine and shop that repaired my generator said cheaper and faster than new from Onan due to supply issues at the time. Supply issues seems to be the excuse most popular at this time. To answer a earlier post rotor/stator were badly burnt and 10 kw genny only had 309 hours at 18 years old. Took the Onan seminar at the FMCA Rally at Tucson and the presenter again stressed exercising your generator under half load. Cheaper to use the fuel than pay the repair costs. Good luck Don e Edited April 10 by diplomat don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 Don, word of caution, before disconnecting rotor wires from the collector, measure and mark which ones go to each ring so you get them back the same way. I had 4 connections on the old rings (in the picture) but the new ones come with 2 connections only. I think it is logical to do that but wanted to remind you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donflem Posted April 10 Author Share Posted April 10 Ok good idea thanks. Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gweedo Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 Don glad you found the issue, we too desert boondock with the grand kids and I'd hate to deal with that issue. Since this a generator conversation I just have a couple questions of should I or not. I did a service on my Gen yesterday, while underneath it I noticed a square box that has what appears to be cooling fins just below the air intake. It's dirty and the air nozzle wouldn't blow it off clean. Can I use a pressure washer on that? Also I'm thinking it's time as a PM to flush coolant and replace thermostat, not sure what intervals this should be done but I haven't done it in the 8-years we've owned it, had 676 hours on it and the coolant is still bright and clean. Is there a belt of some sort that needs replacing as well? Is is wise to blow things on the inside out with the air nozzle? Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 3 minutes ago, Gweedo said: Don glad you found the issue, we too desert boondock with the grand kids and I'd hate to deal with that issue. Since this a generator conversation I just have a couple questions of should I or not. I did a service on my Gen yesterday, while underneath it I noticed a square box that has what appears to be cooling fins just below the air intake. It's dirty and the air nozzle wouldn't blow it off clean. Can I use a pressure washer on that? Also I'm thinking it's time as a PM to flush coolant and replace thermostat, not sure what intervals this should be done but I haven't done it in the 8-years we've owned it, had 676 hours on it and the coolant is still bright and clean. Is there a belt of some sort that needs replacing as well? Is is wise to blow things on the inside out with the air nozzle? Thanks, I assume you have the 7.5KW generator. There is a belt, you have to remove the top and rear panels to access. There is a recommended service interval and it does shows 1000 hours (from memory) to replace. You pretty much have to remove the top to be able to inspect anyway so by the time you invest the effort it is probably makes sense to replace. I have 700 hours on mine and decided to go ahead and replace. I tried to find an aftermarket belt but could not confirm a good number so I just went ahead and bought one from the Cummins shop ~25 miles from me. Cost $18. The fan blade assembly is on the passenger side but it is driven off a pulley on the opposite side, you have to remove the pulley to change the belt. Took me ~2 hours. I also took the time to remove the spark arresstor plug and blow out the soot buildup, they recommend removing plug and running the generator for ~5 minutes under a load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 2 hours ago, Gweedo said: Don glad you found the issue, we too desert boondock with the grand kids and I'd hate to deal with that issue. Since this a generator conversation I just have a couple questions of should I or not. I did a service on my Gen yesterday, while underneath it I noticed a square box that has what appears to be cooling fins just below the air intake. It's dirty and the air nozzle wouldn't blow it off clean. Can I use a pressure washer on that? Also I'm thinking it's time as a PM to flush coolant and replace thermostat, not sure what intervals this should be done but I haven't done it in the 8-years we've owned it, had 676 hours on it and the coolant is still bright and clean. Is there a belt of some sort that needs replacing as well? Is is wise to blow things on the inside out with the air nozzle? Thanks, Rule of Thumb…..here for at least 15 years. If you have only 676 hours and coolant has been changed and looks fine…..Drive (Generate) ON. Many of our more experienced members have close to 1,000 and are confident. BUT…..for the 7.5/8.0 KW……buy and carry the following… Thermostat & Thermostat housing gasket Drive Belt Temperature Sensor Spare Oil and Air Filter. MANY folks, with good PM practices, as they approach 1000 hours will install all the above….but that seems to be a “lets stop and reconsider” issue….lately Now…if you have the 10/12.5 KW….I’d do some reading or call Onan. They have brushes….and there may be a few other parts….so, while you totally take things apart…some minor items might be replaced….I’m not that well versed on the innards of them. NOW….for ALL 10/12.5 KW owners. 2 or 3 times per year….it is a MUST DO to start and run your genny. You need around half a load….2 HP/AC’s work well….run that for at least 30 minutes. That “cleans” the brushes. If not, you will have regulation issues such as Voltage and Frequency. This has been published countless times, but we have several new members….this is NOT necessary on the 7.5/8.0 units….NO BRUSHES….LOL…. DO IT FAITHFULLY. But if you drive with the genny on and AC’s running or dry camp…..not needed….just if you store it for long periods. To climb on this band wagon…..ALL MH owners ought to drive with Genny ON every quarter. My routine….genny on…both rooftops in AC mode and set way low. Drive until the Tranny’s temp is the same as the engine. Turn around. Switch to Heat Pump. Drive home…. Start the diesel burner on your AquaHot or turn on the furnace and let it run for say 15 minutes….. The above times are “relative”. If you drive far enough to get the tranny to engine temp….it will be fine….and exercised on the return leg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gweedo Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 Thanks for the info. It is the 8k I should have said that but it still early lol. Attached is the box I referenced on if I can pressure wash it or not. The rig is kept inside my shop. Maybe I’ll wait until next winter to do the belt and thermostat. Need to finish all the other yearly services before next month’s n looks for an air leak, it’s going to zero after a week or so of sitting. thanks again hombres. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennis.mcdonaugh Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said: Rule of Thumb…..here for at least 15 years. If you have only 676 hours and coolant has been changed and looks fine…..Drive (Generate) ON. Many of our more experienced members have close to 1,000 and are confident. BUT…..for the 7.5/8.0 KW……buy and carry the following… Thermostat & Thermostat housing gasket Drive Belt Temperature Sensor Spare Oil and Air Filter. MANY folks, with good PM practices, as they approach 1000 hours will install all three….but that seems to be a “lets stop and reconsider” issue….lately Now…if you have the 10/12.5 KW….I’d do some reading or call Onan. They have brushes….and there may be a few other parts….so, while you totally take things apart…some minor items might be replaced….I’m not that well versed on the innards of them. NOW….for ALL 10/12.5 KW owners. 2 or 3 times per year….it is a MUST DO to start and run your genny. You need around half a load….2 HP/AC’s work well….run that for at least 30 minutes. That “cleans” the brushes. If not, you will have regulation issues such as Voltage and Frequency. This has been published countless times, but we have several new members….this is NOT necessary on the 7.5/8.0 units….NO BRUSHES….LOL…. DO IT FAITHFULLY. But if you drive with the genny on and AC’s running or dry camp…..not needed….just if you store it for long periods. To climb on this band wagon…..ALL MH owners ought to drive with Genny ON every quarter. My routine….genny on…both rooftops in AC mode and set way low. Drive until the Tranny’s temp is the same as the engine. Turn around. Switch to Heat Pump. Drive home…. Start the diesel burner on your AquaHot or turn on the furnace and let it run for say 15 minutes….. The above times are “relative”. If you drive far enough to get the tranny to engine temp….it will be fine….and exercised on the return leg. I've got 1400 hours on my 7500 and have replaced the T-stat and temp sensor. The temp sensor actually failed about 7-8 years ago. I have thought about changing the belt, but don't see them go out often so have been putting it off. I probably need to do it for peace of mind. I carry an oil, air and fuel filter with me at all times "Just in case". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donflem Posted April 11 Author Share Posted April 11 Ok guys might need a little more help. I’m having trouble finding the collector ring part that Ivan sent me. I called Cummins and talked to a gal who said she’s not real good with generators but she doesn’t think I can buy the part separately. I have to buy the stater. Do any of you guys have any other suggestions before I buy a new stater? Thanks Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 (edited) Well, that's a bummer, Don. I bought mine in 2018 from Reliable Industries in Luisiana but they don't have it listed anymore now when I looked. I know Eurton Electric in CA rewinds rotors/stators and might possibly have some stashed? They did my stator and it was a quick turnaround when Cummins could not get them, for a lot cheaper too. Edited April 11 by Ivan K 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donflem Posted April 11 Author Share Posted April 11 That’s what I was thinking too you did yours in 2018. I’m going to contact Eurton and see if the have 1 or having them do a rebuild. I will keep you informed. Thanks to everyone. Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 6 hours ago, Gweedo said: Thanks for the info. It is the 8k I should have said that but it still early lol. Attached is the box I referenced on if I can pressure wash it or not. I wouldn't get carried away pressure washing this, it is actually the heat sink on the bottom side of the inverter. Good chance you'd get water in the electronic portion on the other side. See parts page. I'd suggest removing the grill work and using a brush to clean off the sink. Inverter parts.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gweedo Posted April 12 Share Posted April 12 6 hours ago, jacwjames said: I wouldn't get carried away pressure washing this, it is actually the heat sink on the bottom side of the inverter. Good chance you'd get water in the electronic portion on the other side. See parts page. I'd suggest removing the grill work and using a brush to clean off the sink. Inverter parts.pdf 6.79 kB · 2 downloads Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diplomat don Posted April 12 Share Posted April 12 19 hours ago, Donflem said: That’s what I was thinking too you did yours in 2018. I’m going to contact Eurton and see if the have 1 or having them do a rebuild. I will keep you informed. Thanks to everyone. Don Don when I looked into Eurton last year they normally don't have larger stators on the shelf but they claim only a week turn around once they receive it. Chances they would have it done before Onan could ship it if they have one in stock and cheaper too. Mine was a 10 k. Good luck,Don 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donflem Posted April 12 Author Share Posted April 12 I called them they said they could rewind it but they don’t have the slip rings and that’s the part I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted April 12 Share Posted April 12 Don, Do you have a part number for slip ring, I've been doing some searching and in most cases they call them Collector rings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted April 12 Share Posted April 12 Worst case, there are some decent looking 10k rotors on ebay, like this one for $400 which is a fraction of cummins price and looks great. Just need to confirm the fitment. Also complete rotor/stator pair for not much more. https://tinyurl.com/54pyhmaa 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donflem Posted April 13 Author Share Posted April 13 Wow really? I was thinking of eBay but a little scared of used. I already bit the bullet and ordered everything. 🥵🤯$2200. I’m going to have a Mudflap made that says MONEY PIT!!!! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradHend Posted April 13 Share Posted April 13 (edited) 14 minutes ago, Donflem said: Wow really? I was thinking of eBay but a little scared of used. I already bit the bullet and ordered everything. 🥵🤯$2200. I’m going to have a Mudflap made that says MONEY PIT!!!! Can you get two made? (Mudflaps). 🤑 Edited April 13 by BradHend 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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