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2007 Dynasty. 10 Kw Generator shuts off and has various intermittent issues. All help appreciated. Thanks.


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I’m dry camping about an hour from Reno with 4 grandkids 🤯🙏 and today the generator started shutting down after about 15 minutes. I noticed my lamp would flicker just before it shuts down any ideas from the group were I should start looking. I think it might be a good idea to find a spot with hook ups tomorrow since it’s snowing again tonight don’t want to kill my new battery’s. Thanks for any suggestions gentlemen.

Don

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Go out to the rocker switch that starts the generator on the generator itself and look for any codes. If you have the Cummings manual, it will give you the codes which is the red light flashing on the switch. It will flash in two different groups with a pause in between.

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Start with the simplest solution. Like Rodger said "how much fuel is in your tank". Your generator generally stops running when your tank gets down to 1/4. So you will not be stranded.

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Sorry I left out a few details. I’m almost full on fuel the rocker switch on the generator blinks 3 times. I’ll get the manual out in the morning. I don’t want to wake the kids. It starts and runs fine for about 10 maybe 15 minutes and shuts off.

Don

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Let us know what the second level fault code is.  It’s only two digits. 

IMG_3498.jpeg

Edited by BradHend
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The first time I changed the coolant, I didn’t realize I had to pull out the hose attached to the radiator cap and top off the coolant level. The system was low and I didn’t know it. The level in the overflow tank was correct. The generator would run 10-15 minutes and shut down. 

Edited by dennis.mcdonaugh
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Not sure if this is the same issue, but our 2003 Holiday Rambler Imperial generator will shut down after 10 to 15 minutes if the auto gen start is programmed in the inverter panel if I start it from the dash switch. If I start it from the inverter panel it operates perfectly. Turn off the auto gen start and all switches function normally. 

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I had the same issue. Service check code 3 (blinks). It was a bad water temp sending unit. Remove the top panel and you'll see it threaded into the rear left top of the head. Kinda tight to get to, but not bad. I was able to knock it loose with a standard combination wrench.

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It could be a lot of things. Check the full code. 
 

Mine did this sort of thing and the computer board was bad. It kept shutting off the fuel pump. I jumped the fuel pump and problem solved. 

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So I  started it this morning died right away . I’m only getting 3 flashes on the red light but I did notice no coolant in the tank. I just serviced the generator before this trip so it was topped off. I don’t see any fluid anywhere and of course I don’t have any coolant with me so I’m gonna load up and head to town so I’m close to parts. I obviously have a leak somewhere.

Don

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Press the stop button when the three flashes are on so it will flash the two digit error code and confirm your findings with the coolant. 

Edited by BradHend
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1 hour ago, Donflem said:

So I  started it this morning died right away . I’m only getting 3 flashes on the red light but I did notice no coolant in the tank. I just serviced the generator before this trip so it was topped off. I don’t see any fluid anywhere and of course I don’t have any coolant with me so I’m gonna load up and head to town so I’m close to parts. I obviously have a leak somewhere.

Don

3 things.

CODES???   Do it.

Coolant?  Add Distilled Water.  Any grocery or pharmacy or whatever will have it.  As long as sub 25 weather is not in forecast….  GOOD to go and you can drain out the amount of Water you put in and replace with 100% concentration coolant….

Leak?  Maybe NOT.  Often times there are air bubbles or voids.  UNLESS you get some other “real code”, I’d top off and monitor.  You would NOT be the first to “underfill” when servicing because it didn’t run long enough for the coolant to burp…

FREEBIE?  Many engines have an oil level sensor that will shut down on OVERFILL…. Check the oil level….either way….never make decisions based on hunches or “Hey…I think it is this….” 

BTW….I had a LOW oil on my Genny….guess what?  Shut down.  Shop let it drain….way too long….then added “precisely” what spec said.  BUT the precisely was based on IMMEDIATELY refilling.

BTW….the same thing will happen on an Allison.  You may have to add an extra quart.  Allison tech support said it is a COMMON problem….not just on a Genny….

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Ok I  filled coolant no help. The code is 1  pauses then 3. I shut off the breaker on generator still won’t stay running it’s missing so I’m breaking camp to get to hook ups. I’m wondering if maybe a bad fuel filter? It’s crazy every thing is new oil filter,fuel filter,air filter,brushes couple months old . I’ll check back with the group when I get to town. Thanks again for all your support. God bless and happy EASTER.

Don

 

 

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IMG_3506.jpegDoes that make sense in your situation?
I would definitely shed some load and see if that stops the shut down.  
Otherwise could be a host of issues from minor to major unfortunately. 
Id be starting with the load shedding, taking some voltage measurements, checking every connection you can (while powered down), including the twist-locks. 
 

Edited by BradHend
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Code 13 is what I’m thinking it says but doesn’t make sense I’ve turned off the breaker and it still stalls it seems like it’s running out of fuel. I can’t imagine a bad NEW fuel filter but it’s possible so tomorrow I think that’s were I will start unless you guys have any other ideas???

Don

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4 minutes ago, BradHend said:

IMG_3506.jpegDoes that make sense in your situation? Shed some load and see what happens perhaps? Take some voltage measurements. 

OFF THE WALL.  I would start with the Genny.  Check the tightness of the connections to the ATS.  I think Don has a “unusual” elexgrical hookup.  He MIGHT be able to see the current load.  
 

Fuel filter is very small.  It will load up and give issues way quicker than an engine filter.  I’d put in new filters…..and test.  Mine did this once…when I had the AC on too quick.

WE have had issues…..with folks overloading the Genny.  There is a little known issue.  The wiring is NOT rated for the Full Load Amps of the genny.

You need to keep the Line 1 and Line 2 load UNDER a combined 60 amps…..really need to use 55 as a rule.  So, verify or measure the individual amps.  Cut back to 25 amps.  NOW remember….  When you are using HP’s….and they cycle on or off….the “originals” will pull in excess of 20 to 25 amps.  Also, don’t know if you have a Gas/Electric refrigerator…..

I would cut back to ONE AC on each leg….

 

 

 

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Just a theory since I do not have an inverter generator. Normally, shutting down due to lack of fuel would throw code 36, i think that is a norm across the diesels.(?) However, with inverter, missing and slowing down of the engine might likely cause drop of output voltage, loaded or not, possible? If that was the case, the expected cause 36 would be masked by your code 13 when the engine is shut down by controller command, and that happens before the engine quits on it own. If the engine is indeed missing, that would be an engine/fuel delivery problem.

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I also noticed you said you changed your commutator brushes.  Have a look to make sure they are making full contact with the comm and that the comm is in relatively good condition.  Check slip rings too.  Commutator should be a light chocolate brown color and not pitted or burned. There should not be any heavy sparking where the brush and commutator touch when it’s running. a little under heavy load is normal and unavoidable really. 
On the old motor/generator sets on elevators brush/commutator maintenance is extremely important. Lots of erratic behavior can happen pretty quick if those two items are overlooked.  
I’ve also found that new brushes either have no contour, or are not the correct contour, hence the importance of ensuring new brushes are seated properly.

 

Edited by BradHend
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I went through a similar issue a couple years ago, I thought it was the inverter, I even removed it and did some checking.  Called a Trace service shop and talked to the tech, he said it sounded like the inverter was good.  He gave me some trouble shooting tips.

I shut off all the breakers in my main service panel and all the breakers in the subpanels for the inverter.   Started the generator.  Then flipped on both of the 50 amp breakers in the service panel, genny stayed running.  Then flipped on the rest of the breakers one by one in the main service panel, genny stayed running.  The started flipping breakers in the subpanel, as soon as I turned on the breaker for the circuit for the bedroom it genny died. 

Long story short, I suspect mice had chewed the wires in the ceiling.  I ended up rerouting the wiring to get the circuit restored. 

 

SO turn off all the breakers in the power panels and see if the generator stays running. 

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1 hour ago, BradHend said:

I also noticed you said you changed your commutator brushes.  Have a look to make sure they are making full contact with the comm and that the comm is in relatively good condition.  Check slip rings too.  Commutator should be a light chocolate brown color and not pitted or burned. There should not be any heavy sparking where the brush and commutator touch when it’s running. a little under heavy load is normal and unavoidable really. 
On the old motor/generator sets on elevators brush/commutator maintenance is extremely important. Lots of erratic behavior can happen pretty quick if those two items are overlooked.  
I’ve also found that new brushes either have no contour, or are not the correct contour, hence the importance of ensuring new brushes are seated properly.

 

I’m a bit confused.  The 10 KW Diesel Onan’s…like on a Dynasty have “brushes”.  If they get dirty…..which they do….the ONAN procedure is to run at 50 % load for at least half an hour each 3 months. This is a “self cleaning” process.  That usually resolves it.

The 8.0 & 7.5 Diesels are an “inverter” style. They do NOT have brushes….so you cannot replace them.

Next UP.  The control boards on the 10KW are weak…notoriously so.  They are prone to coolant damage (leaks) and moisture.  The Mobile techs usually stock and carry spares.  The OEM is pricey… Flight Systems is the daddy rabbit of a rebuilt and more robust board.  You need to get the Model number and google Flight Services and call them.  They are a great tech support….

 

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