John C Posted May 28 Share Posted May 28 Just noticed there is a big crack in the middle of the rotors and a lot of small cracks. Obviously I will have to change it. Could someone tell me how bad it is? No sure if i want want to do this by myself. Can I still drive 40-50 miles to the shop with this rotor? Also anyone know where I can buy this rotor? Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution Benjamin Posted May 28 Solution Share Posted May 28 (edited) I'd drive that to the shop. The small cracks are typical, but that one extending to the edge is too big. Looks like there might be several other cracks larger than the allowable size, which is something like 1/3 the length of the friction surface, and even that would make me uncomfortable on an RV. Surface cracks like that come from sudden braking on a cold rotor/drum. Use your brakes lightly while you're driving, don't use the engine brake all the way down then stomp on the service brakes with cold brakes. edit, forgot, I'd look for part numbers and search on rockauto, the bolt pattern is standard, the outer diameter will be one of very few choices, and the height will be one of a few choices. The biggest choice is the quality of manufacturer you go with. The shop can handle finding them easy, but not bad to do it yourself either. Edited May 28 by Benjamin 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted May 28 Share Posted May 28 The little cracks would not concern me much but the long one, all the way to the edge, would be called out for replacement by a shop. Yes, I would drive it to a shop, no telling how long it has already been there anyway. As where to get a replacement, the shop will know but if you knew the manufacturer and P/N, you could shop around, even local Napa got them for me. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbr046 Posted May 28 Share Posted May 28 If you drive it to the shop and let them take care of it it will cost $$$. They'll charge MSRP for a rotor that may or may not be quality, and they'll get a discounted price doing it (jobber pricing). They have (or should have) the experience to know good vs poor rotor vendors, or they may be a install-it-and-forget-it kind of shop. It's knowing straight shooting vs BS that's the troubling part. OTOH, if you do the research you can find great quality, maybe at more than the shop's MSRP, but you know what you're getting and have control over it. They may or may not install someone else's rotor (one they didn't pick). Choices . . . . - bob 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John C Posted May 28 Author Share Posted May 28 7 minutes ago, cbr046 said: If you drive it to the shop and let them take care of it it will cost $$$. They'll charge MSRP for a rotor that may or may not be quality, and they'll get a discounted price doing it (jobber pricing). They have (or should have) the experience to know good vs poor rotor vendors, or they may be a install-it-and-forget-it kind of shop. It's knowing straight shooting vs BS that's the troubling part. OTOH, if you do the research you can find great quality, maybe at more than the shop's MSRP, but you know what you're getting and have control over it. They may or may not install someone else's rotor (one they didn't pick). Choices . . . . - bob Any idea how to what kind of rotor? 1 hour ago, Benjamin said: I'd drive that to the shop. The small cracks are typical, but that one extending to the edge is too big. Looks like there might be several other cracks larger than the allowable size, which is something like 1/3 the length of the friction surface, and even that would make me uncomfortable on an RV. Surface cracks like that come from sudden braking on a cold rotor/drum. Use your brakes lightly while you're driving, don't use the engine brake all the way down then stomp on the service brakes with cold brakes. edit, forgot, I'd look for part numbers and search on rockauto, the bolt pattern is standard, the outer diameter will be one of very few choices, and the height will be one of a few choices. The biggest choice is the quality of manufacturer you go with. The shop can handle finding them easy, but not bad to do it yourself either. Just went to the website, of course Monaco and Roadmaster is not in their list. then what? no one answer the phone. Also do you know any video should you how to do this? Never done it before and just afraid I miss anything and screw big time. Other rotor has lots of small cracks too, how long before they turn in to big cracks? should I just replace those as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbr046 Posted May 28 Share Posted May 28 29 minutes ago, John C said: Any idea how to what kind of rotor? No but I did research for an auto once. I forget what brand I ended up buying. It might be a good question for the IRV2 folks also as they have a bigger audience, just weigh the responses. Might track down some truck forums? - bob 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted May 28 Share Posted May 28 Your assembly list should have axle manufacturer and S/N on it. The brakes came included on the axle. Call and ask for part number. Or get under and find the ID plate on the axle and copy all the info to have handy. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjamin Posted May 28 Share Posted May 28 I would take a wire brush to the rotor and see if you can find any numbers. If not, find the numbers on the caliper. I've never touched air disc brakes, or if those are hydraulic, then I'm really lost? rockauto may not have either, a truck place will find them no problem, or we can find them online to order, or at least compare the price. That looks like inboard rotors, so the most critical part is replacing the inner seal and setting the bearing correctly. The hardest part might be handling the hub and breaking loose the larger hardware, if you can handle the physical part with cheater pipes, then you can do the rest. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timaz996 Posted May 28 Share Posted May 28 "Other rotor has lots of small cracks too, how long before they turn in to big cracks? should I just replace those as well?" Yes, change the fronts as a set. You might want to change the pads while you're at it so they will "bed in" together. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted May 28 Share Posted May 28 And best to replace the pads as well so the rotors wear nice. More expensive than a rotor in my case. IF you are really lucky, you may find your part number under the rust... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J A Posted May 28 Share Posted May 28 4 hours ago, John C said: Just noticed there is a big crack in the middle of the rotors and a lot of small cracks. Obviously I will have to change it. Could someone tell me how bad it is? No sure if i want want to do this by myself. Can I still drive 40-50 miles to the shop with this rotor? Also anyone know where I can buy this rotor? Thank you. You should find a tag on the axle. That will have the information needed to identify the rotor. Most truck shops can do that job. When chassis issues always think Truck. You could call REV parts and ask for the Data Cards for you coach, and Build Sheet. You will need your coach VIN#. The Data cards will have the list of major components of the coach, listed by Brand name, Model, and serial # of the OEM parts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 2 hours ago, Ivan K said: And best to replace the pads as well so the rotors wear nice. More expensive than a rotor in my case. IF you are really lucky, you may find your part number under the rust... Thought that bevel on the edge of the rotor was the gauge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 Well, the whole point of the attachment was to show where the part number could be. But out of curiosity, at that time, I wanted to know how much meat there exactly is before reaching the minimum. Not very much at 1.753" when new. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John C Posted May 29 Author Share Posted May 29 3 hours ago, 96 EVO said: Thought that bevel on the edge of the rotor was the gauge? That is a real clear rotor!!! I don't see any rust. Here is mine.Lot if rust but no part number 7 hours ago, Ivan K said: Your assembly list should have axle manufacturer and S/N on it. The brakes came included on the axle. Call and ask for part number. Or get under and find the ID plate on the axle and copy all the info to have handy. He is what on my axle, no sure if those mean anything Will call tomorrow to find out from Monaco Support Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert92867 Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 Well, I learned something. A 07 Dynasty has front hydraulic disc brakes. I thought all the bigger coaches has air brakes. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John C Posted May 29 Author Share Posted May 29 From the Axle# I found out the part# from Dana, it is Webb Wheel Part# 59173B, they only sell the whole thing, no sure how much it is , but someone told me they spend over $9k for parts and labor! I found the rotor https://www.finditparts.com/products/2537732/centric-120-dot-86007, The rotor is interchangeable with Webb Wheel Part# 59173B, price is $287, I just bought two. Now the challenge is to find the brake pad for the rotor. Does anyone one know what kind of brake pad I need for this rotor on my coach? Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 You may have seen this link with PNs, either way the numbers should be verified for your calipers. The same people who gave you the rotor number should have told you the pads numbers too. https://community.fmca.com/topic/1130-air-disc-brakes-pns/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 4 hours ago, Robert92867 said: Well, I learned something. A 07 Dynasty has front hydraulic disc brakes. I thought all the bigger coaches has air brakes. You don't have hyd brakes on the front! You have air disc brakes, just like the rest of us! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hockeydiesel Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 Caliper, Haldex 790-94049, JIT truck parts, $1328, free shipping. Pads, Haldex 790-22012, JIT truck parts, $192, free shipping. Front Rotors, Centric 120.86007, Find it Parts, $287, free shipping. Rear Rotor, Webb 26741XM7T, Iron Wing Sales, $349, free shipping. Adjustment Shaft Kit, Haldex 790-94892, about $9. Caliper fits all four positions. These parts fit on a 2005 Monaco Signature. Caliper weighs about 90#, be careful. Mike S. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hockeydiesel Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 Here is the info. from the tag on my front axle. Spicer / Monaco 01806914 / Dana part # C 14628N2021 / Model # E-1462 W . This info. matches exactly what John C has posted in his pictures. Parts should fit at least 2005 thru 2007 S series chassis. I hope this helps someone. Mike S. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 3 minutes ago, Hockeydiesel said: Here is the info. from the tag on my front axle. Spicer / Monaco 01806914 / Dana part # C 14628N2021 / Model # E-1462 W . This info. matches exactly what John C has posted in his pictures. Parts should fit at least 2005 thru 2007 S series chassis. I hope this helps someone. Mike S. Same axle on our '08 RR10S chassis! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John C Posted May 30 Author Share Posted May 30 6 hours ago, Hockeydiesel said: Here is the info. from the tag on my front axle. Spicer / Monaco 01806914 / Dana part # C 14628N2021 / Model # E-1462 W . This info. matches exactly what John C has posted in his pictures. Parts should fit at least 2005 thru 2007 S series chassis. I hope this helps someone. Mike S. Thanks. My tag is Dana D22AU601A134. looks like they changed the Axles even for the same chassis 7 hours ago, Hockeydiesel said: Caliper, Haldex 790-94049, JIT truck parts, $1328, free shipping. Pads, Haldex 790-22012, JIT truck parts, $192, free shipping. Front Rotors, Centric 120.86007, Find it Parts, $287, free shipping. Rear Rotor, Webb 26741XM7T, Iron Wing Sales, $349, free shipping. Adjustment Shaft Kit, Haldex 790-94892, about $9. Caliper fits all four positions. These parts fit on a 2005 Monaco Signature. Caliper weighs about 90#, be careful. Mike S. Never thought about to change Caliper, I am going to change the rotor and brake pad, when do you decide to change Caliper? On 5/29/2024 at 4:06 PM, Ivan K said: You may have seen this link with PNs, either way the numbers should be verified for your calipers. The same people who gave you the rotor number should have told you the pads numbers too. https://community.fmca.com/topic/1130-air-disc-brakes-pns/ Thank you. Just got the brake pad # from them, it is 976003 are by Bendix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjamin Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 41 minutes ago, John C said: Never thought about to change Caliper, I am going to change the rotor and brake pad, when do you decide to change Caliper? You'll have to back off the caliper to change the pads. Make sure everything moves freely. Some have lubrication directions. There are a few youtube videos of haldex air disc calipers. I've never touched one, so that's where I'd look. If the pads are worn parallel then I'd say the caliper is in good shape. The two pads don't have to be even with the one on the other side, that's rare. Just make sure they're not obviously dragging one edge more. Those surface checking cracks are caused by the opposite of a dragging caliper, so not a likely issue on these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John C Posted May 31 Author Share Posted May 31 4 minutes ago, Benjamin said: You'll have to back off the caliper to change the pads. Make sure everything moves freely. Some have lubrication directions. There are a few youtube videos of haldex air disc calipers. I've never touched one, so that's where I'd look. If the pads are worn parallel then I'd say the caliper is in good shape. The two pads don't have to be even with the one on the other side, that's rare. Just make sure they're not obviously dragging one edge more. Those surface checking cracks are caused by the opposite of a dragging caliper, so not a likely issue on these. Got it . Thanks! When I picked the coach from AZ, I accidentally hit a button on the left side of the driver seat, that automatically braked when I released my foot from gas pedal, I drove about 200 miles this way before I called the dealer and found out the button. Could that the reason caused the big crack on the rotor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted May 31 Share Posted May 31 Found the button, was the parking brake? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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