Ivan K

Your engine manual should have a section similar to our M11/ISM to reference the max limit but I think this is true for most diesels

I was gonna suggest totally bypassing the manifolds and know how to do it on our HWH but Valid may be different in ways I don't know. Still believe it would be doable by connecting bag and ride valve lines at the manifold with some PTC couplers. Effectively making it a coach with no levelin, just for the transport. An other, brainless way, would be to install schrader valve PTC fitting on bag lines and inflate them...

I wish I knew more about Valid leveling but would expect that they incorporated a right hight bypass into their manifolds just as HWH has. Have you looked into it? Someone here would know.

Dont think there's one wit 0-8" H2O but these minders can easily be tested with handheld vacuum pump if in doubt. Typical range for diesels is 25" H2O for an alarm, if so equipped. It is a good practice resetting them once a while, a sudden drop in reading is an indication of a potential trouble just as an increase.

That's what I did to test ours as well 😀

I don't watch the boost so closely to notice a difference, I just ease off a little when it starts bouncing but it is expected to loose some percentage of power with thinner air, less oxygen per volume at elevation and lower turbo RPM even with density altitude change at the same elevation.

The house batteries did not turn the starter, they only somehow provided the starter solenoid signal which is minimal.

If your alternator is the Duvac kind and the reference lead gets disconnected because it is past the switch, it will do what it can to get the reference voltage, which is now missing, to where it should be, ~14V. I don't know your coach to tell why is it starting off house but the starter lead does not go through the switch anyway.

Your 2001 may not have the backlight function. Ours doesn't and doesn’t have the often troublesome clock spring either. There just isn't enough leads from the VIP controller to supply power for it but on the positive side, no clock spring to fail...

Typically, in those days, dash gauge has its own sensor in different location on the block, different from what the ECM is using and passing on to data link.

That turbo mounting flange looks weird but looking at my picture, the one stud is also off center in the ear and it is an OEM manifold.

Couple of weeks ago I helped a friend who got stuck on the road in heavy rain. A lot of black smoke when he tried to move. It was an ISL with rubber elbow on turbo intake and it was collapsing. Pulled the newish filter and it was dripping soaked. Maybe something to check.

The compressor is pretty much unnecessary if parked on level ground and there are NO leaks in the leveling system. If it kicks in, it is to compensate for leaks or, if on uneven ground for bag pressure changes with uneven air volumes in them. My Thomas compressor lasted for over 20 years and then it only needed to clean the collector area. It stay where it always was.

Just curious, are you certain the problem isn't on the valve side?

Kurt, yes to reused existing 4 wires each behind the panel. They come with closed coils so the existing coils will be replaced in the breaker box, again, using existing wires. If you have the same analog gauges, the vertical opening is about 1/32 too small but easy to file larger. And the display is always ON when you have AC, if that matters to you. Ours are in the hallway so it's fine at night.

I have replaced couple of ours with these, about a year ago and working fine. The other two are now unused, saving space for whatever in the future.

Still worth a try since you see at least some minimum resistance to ground, IMO

Here is a pic of the contactor but you may want to confirm as Tom said. May have used different ones over the years. Also it may go away if you unplug and plug again. I also read somewhere that a capacitor replacement on the board fixed excessive hum but it is a hearsay.

If you want to stay with plain tempered flat sheet of your size, you could order from online places like royaltymirror.com for half of your $600 quote with free shipping. 3/8" sheet of your size comes to $306 and you can customize it for mounting/tint etc.for some extra.

Don't know about Dynasty but mine is in FRB and many have it on outside of the firewall. And yes, a yellow line from PPV on the front tank on mine too.

I have replaced one of my valves recently. You will need to have empty air tanks and airbags. I use blocks between the h-frame and main rails but ramps or appropriate jack stands would do the same. Basically you need to be able to get safely under the coach with no air in the system. With air leveling, there could be a nuance in doing it but no air is still the safest option. Try to mirror the arm angle of the old valve so that you need less or no final hight adjustment after the replacement because that would have to be done when aired up again.

Good to know, thank you Bob, wasn't like that last spring/summer.

My philosophy too. Never had a fuel problem (knock on wood) and with a safe 1000 miles range there will be one on the way, maybe except when roaming southern Utah for weeks, where Mudflap comes handy at Mavericks, not much choice there. The TSD app also links to directions to review the pump situation.

I couldn't get the oil feed hose out of the turbo and had to pull it out with the hose, easier that way if you run into it too. That thing is heavy and deep in the hole.

You have to call ahead? I just touch the button to get it, is that what you meant?