Ivan K

I have the same manifold and none of the penetrant (atf+) made it into the threads but there was no sign of rust in them either. The only rust was inside the spacers. Once the bolt head broke loose from the spacer, it just came out easily.

Hmm, very different from mine, sorry, don't know this one.

Yes, it is a knockoff of a Hadley but at least the part number H00450 will give plenty of hits at various cost for OEM, if that's the right one.

Pat, do you really have 3 fittings on that valve or just 2 and an exhaust port like this one? If the same, the C indicates compression fittings however the pic does not show it so maybe not in this case... If yours is different, then I don't know.

My opinion, if the pump in fact works, it doesn't matter how many functions it feeds since it only runs one at a time.

Depends if you get the 5% on any purchase. For my CC it is classified as merchandise purchase, not fuel purchase since it is charged by Mudflap, not by the fuel station. TSD takes the money from your bank account so no 'cashbacking'....hate that commercial...

Why not get both, sometimes there is only one choice on the road

Joe, if you are looking to inspect your rollers and it isn't a drop down slide, also assuming the kitchen and sofa is on that slide like ours.... two rollers are accessible under false kitchen cabinet floor and two more are mounted under the sofa but from under the floor, accessible from the wheel well and LPG tank compartment. If your floor plan is different, it changes things.

On ours, the 12V for units and thermostats comes through a 2A fuse in bedroom fuse box. May or may not be similar with yours.

If you don't have a 'fitting shop' near you, you can get DOT rated compression fittings on Amazon or elsewhere since it appears to be a brake line. Easier to find if you are eliminating the small line and looking for a straight coupler.

The rod and valve in your pic is part of ride hight system and if that valve was leaking, it would be dropping both front corners.

If you have air leveling, it certainly could be a leak at the sixpack. The fist step for me would be to figure whether it is caused by a drop in the front or rear corner.

Get a Microair thermostat and control it all from your phone or tablet. That's what I do for all the AC units from anywhere. Switch to heat, cool, fan, set temp, whatever. It uses Bluetooth or wifi depending on distance.

Short version - Your inverter/charger is to primarily charge house batteries but on your Signature, there will be an arrangement to charge chassis as well.. It could be a maintainer or a solenoid relay which does that when house is at a certain charging voltage. Therefore the temp sensor goes on house batteries. As far as the disconnects, you might want to test it to be sure but my inverter does not get disconnected by house disconnect. Chassis disconnect has no effect on inverter.

According to my documentation, my wheels can turn 40 degrees. King pin is the center of rotation and is about flush with inner wheel sidewall. The outside center will move slightly back and in, giving you an advantage. Should be able to guesstimate from this info and tire size.

I can't tell if grizzlys Signature would follow the same logic but the front unit was the only one controlled by the front thermostat so there was nothing else in play on ours. Center and rear units were on a bedroom thermostat with no connection to the front. It is easy to swap the thermostats front to rear to help isolate the issue. Besides the point but now I have all 3 units on the same microair with remote controll ability.

Good deal. You don't even have to use the valve if you can change the filter quickly. Since you mention a screw, you have a 2 piece shaft and yes, remove the screw and the now separated pieces.

Yeah, lot of fake scam sites on the net, I would not even consider such irreversible payment method. ISC/ISL compressor rebuild kit from Cummins is like $400.

Yes that is it. Glad you made it!

Sorry, I thought you know where the display is. Mine is inside, above the fridge. Black panel with greenish display and touch buttons. Says RC7 GS on it. I'll get a pic if you don't see it.

Hold UP and DOWN simultaneously until a beep and you are in the programming menu. Same to get out of it. Down to different parameters, side arrow to change them. I bet we have a manual in files. Set AGS as you like but have to set time of day to make it work. There recommended parameters in some recent RC7GS post also but it should be quite logical.

Yes that's it.

If you have Xantrex inverter, there is no AGS box, it's all done from the RC7GS display. Magnum is different and someone else would know.

It would certainly effect cooling ability in hot weather, especially with sun on that side. Unfortunately, unless the refer is on slide and you have a vent to get to the back top side of the box, it is hard to test or replace the temp switch without taking the fridge out of it's place. Same for replacing the fans if failed but there should be more than one fan. I don't remember where the fan power is coming from or whether there is a fuse for them in the black box at the back, you manual should show it. As a dirty workaround, rigging an auxiliary fan into the vent hole...

I am with Mike on this, I only carry few things based on my previous failures. A couple of good used belts, fuel filter and pair of brushes just because I have them for next time. I also have a set of those 'special' Injector pump orings because they failed on our last trip and I ordered extras. Our 3LD1 pumps had PITA penta bolts that I replaced for regulars to save myself a hustle on the road. I haven't heard of anyone else having leaks at those pumps on a generator but 2 of mine did, at around 4k hours.