Ivylog

I’ll “almost” guarantee “Dike Stop Leak” will fix it…BEST stop leak I’ve ever used. Had similar issue on a Cat 3406… lots of things in the way. That was 20 years ago and it still doesn’t leak. Recently my brother had a leak on a one year old turbo with the stupid hot water controlled VGT…stopped it too. https://www.amazon.com/Dike-Radiator-Stop-Leak-Pint/dp/B07PWHJQZL/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=BWYLIVLFL3N5&keywords=dike+stop+leak&qid=1638021792&qsid=146-4576598-2844959&sprefix=dike+%2Caps%2C271&sr=8-5&sres=B002HIB3GI%2CB00TO60CMW%2CB07PWHJQZL%2CB001QT9KO6%2CB0869GRFC7%2CB000OAEN7C%2CB00754T6TK%2CB076ZP45Z5%2CB000BRQ0TW%2CB002PX91OG%2CB0086H95X2%2CB000931OEO%2CB00D46NSTM%2CB00QYZIVA6

If you think you saw miore GA State Patrol on Wednesday, you’re right as 90% of the force was on duty before the holiday. One stopped to see if he could help. I had already headed to town for parts and he stayed until we got back on the road. Doubt it made any difference that our daughter had taught his daughter in the local school. It’s a job I don’t envy, especially in today’s environment.

Headed south yesterday… got 10 miles and large cloud of white mist out the back…antifreeze everywhere. Friend saw us on the side of the road and called our son-in-law so didn’t have to remove the toad to go get parts. Took several times of having the DW starting the engine while I watched underneath to finally find the leak. Fortunately just a heater hose and $4 in parts (plex splice and 2 clamps) plus 8 gallons of antifreeze and back on the road…hadn’t planned on changing the antifreeze as it had tested good. The 1” section I replaced had a thin area running long ways, but not from having been rubbing on anything…we’ll supported and zip tied against another heater hose. Probably a defect from day one. I did a thorough inspection of the various hoses in the engine area when I bought the rig 3 years ago without finding anything that concerned me.

Two problems…400 volts and fire prone LiMn2O4/LiNiO2 chemistry. 400V can be solved by enough panels in series but then shading becomes a issue.

151 came up antilock brakes. 102 is low intake air pressure.

A 04-05 engine does not have a DPF filter… DPF started with 07 engines.

He has a Cat engine… no lift pump and notorious for letting air into the fuel system when changing filters, even when pre filled with fuel letting the engine run for awhile and then shutting down. The priming pump knob must be turned CCW to unlock but now you have air in the injector lines. I would loosen the 6 lines at the injectors and crank for 2 one minute times, letting the starter cool for 5 minutes between. Tighten the lines back up and she should start.

Undate: the BMSs arrived in 2 weeks (air freight) but no telling when the cells will arrive because of the current shipping backup. Sale starting on the 25th has 8 320AH cells for $328. For those wanting grade A cells, 4 200AH are the same price.

I now take a sample at 20K miles…1/4” tube with end cut at 45 on a large syringe. Depending on the results a week later I’ll either change or go another 5K miles before changing. X4 on Blackstone

I have found that when fuel prices are decreasing, the TSD card is quicker to respond to the reduced price resulting it being the best price. Using Ft Morgan currently, the TSD price is $3.02 and the best with my 5% back credit card is $3.15. BUT, south of Denver the Sam’s price is $3.04 less the 5% so $2.90 if coming up I-25 to I-76, guess where I’d get fuel….helps to have a 900 mile range.

Happening at TAs out West.

What color is the stabilizer? Blue is 230 lbs and recommend for a DP and should have holes large enough. I found it made driving tiring in anything but perfect conditions…no crosswind and a flat road. The following is my solution: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/making-a-safe-t-plus-adjustable-451209.html

Based on the wiring diagram JJ posted above, I would start at that isolator, as it looks like the alternator output comes to it before going to the batteries.

The inverter doesn’t charge the batteries… the charger in the inverter/charger charges the batteries. There are 2 buttons on the remote control… one for turning the charger on/off and the second for the inverter.

Charles, crank the engine, it should charge the house batteries…OH wait, you said the alternator stopped working. Running the engine will put heat into the A Hot if freezing temps expected. “Everything is dead” if that includes the 120V then I’d start checking at the transfer switch assuming you actually have shore power.

While our rigs have/had AGS, other than to test if it worked, I never use it…don’t need it starting during quite hours. I’m ASSUMING you do not need 120V for it to work…time for someone to test.

Why should the inverter be left on?

He put on 295/80/22.5 and maybe Toyo.

The motorhome bay which is part of my home in N GA, is made with 2 x 6 walls and door plus 2 x 10 ceiling with batt insulation. Has never gotten below 40 degrees is in 15 winters without any heat, not even much from the common wall as the house is set at 45 all winter. We get a few days below 10 and many days where it never gets above freezing and why we go to Fla in the winter.

In the real world you can’t as it’s impossible to load enough on the rear… you end up overloading the front axle before using all of the CCC. No, you only have a 13K front axle. Because you have a much bigger tire than necessary for the load, even increasing from 3000lbs (a single PU truck tire can carry that much weight) to 4500 lbs. A single 295 can carry that much weight at 70 psi so 2 could at 40 psi BUT the tire wouldn’t stay on the rim in a turn.

Well, you could add 9,000 lbs of stuff and not be over your max GVW. Shows why you didn’t need 295s on the rear once you increase the tag’s pressure to 45 or more adding 1500 lbs to it for 4500 lbs. This will take 2000 lbs off the drive and add 500 to the steer…contrary to what some will say. The tag and steer being heavier will improve the handling, not that it was bad. I add 5 psi to the pressures from the table because I travel in heavy crosswinds which shifts a fair amount of weight. For 12,000 lbs you need 90+5=95. 20,460 requires 85+5=90 for the drives. One 295 would carry your 4500 lbs at the minimum 80 psi (not sure why it’s 80 as other 22.5 are 70 minimum) so I’d run 70 in the tags.

Vito ^^^, he doesn’t have power in storage. Sunday’s low has been lowered to 23 here… time to turn the heat on inside

I would not worry about letting the AHot run on diesel unattended. I would check the exhaust for anything flammable near it.

Don’t know why the below post wasn’t posted yesterday, sometimes this site baffles me. I kind of like the idea of digging a hole to lower the tank down so that gravity will fill it. While digging , I would create a French drain with gravel for the gray water. You can make a lift pump out of a kitchen garbage disposal…find a used one at a thrift store.