Harvey Babb

Plugging it may cause your air bags to overinflate, possibly causing damage. Leaks are common in my experience, and while annoying, are small and harmless. If the coach can maintain air pressure at idle, you should be safe to travel with it.

Leak location: my 2000 HR Endeavor had a cooked suction hose where it passed by the turbo. It deteriorated to the point that the hose felt crunchy if you moved it.

As Rick said, looks like Red/Green/Green which means either L1 and neutral or L2 and neutral are reversed. This is bad! It means that the full 220/2230/240 volts is applied to whatever circuits are fed by the miswired side. According to the brochure for the surge guard there is no protection provided for that condition ( https://rvpower.southwire.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/SW-SurgeGuard-Brochure-Update.pdf Page 18). That is their "Bottom of the Line" 50 Amp unit and frankly only good for indication. If you plugged it into the power source and checked the lights BEFORE plugging the RV into the unit it could be useful, but otherwise not so much. I would suggest getting a qualified person to install a 50 Amp RV outlet and start checking to see what all got fried. The fact that generator power isn't working normally but that readings at the main breaker are showing power is confusing and someone qualified to test on an open panel is going to have to sort that out. I would also drop that Surge Guard into the near trash bin and buy a full featured one that actually protects against improper wiring instead of just cryptically saying "you just got burned". I'd wager that the MOV's on one leg are fried and it's no longer even able to act as a surge suppressor. That's free advice and worth at least as much as you paid for it. Good luck and please post back what's discovered so we all can learn from this unfortunate event.

Yes, if it's one of the more advanced ones (like Amazon's "best seller" https://www.amazon.com/PROGRESSIVE-INDUSTRIES-SSP-50XL-Surge-Protector/dp/B015Y9A4HU/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=RV+surge+protector&qid=1618176479&sr=8-3 ) it never should have happened. Nor would that protector have had any damage; the simpler design used by most inexpensive surge protectors will smoke in seconds if exposed to a continuous voltage that exceeds their protection voltage. BTW Rick, I went back and re-read my earlier post and I did not state that I was talking about an "open neutral" condition: apologies to you! My Bad!

And that's what I think he did. As stated in the OP the surge protector was showing "open ground" and I'm ASSUMING it was actually an open neutral. What's missing here are some readings that will make things more clear. If we had readings of L1 to L2, L1 to N, and L2 to N it would clear a lot of things up. If it was indeed an open neutral then there could be a LOT of things damaged, including the surge protector, transfer switch, washer, dryer, TV's, microwave and anything else with AC control circuitry. The items l listed are most vulnerable because they have line voltage "always on" to their control circuitry (except the surge protector. It would have tried valiantly to absorb anything over around 130 volts and died in seconds). My coach is always connected to a 230 volt (actually 246 volt; they run things at or above the max limit around here) 30 amp service. I don't need any more and I had #10 wire on hand when I wired it.)

Yes, you most certainly can cause significant damage just by plugging into 230 volts WITH NO NEUTRAL. What this does is put roughly 1/2 of the devices in the coach in series with the other half and apply 230 volts to the lot. What this means is that the voltage that appears on any 120 volt device CAN BE as much as 230 volts. If the water heater or refrigerator happens to be on, whatever is on the other group will see nearly the entire 230 volts. With luck the transfer switch will fry before it pulls in and kills a bunch of other stuff, but the fact that dryer was hit would indicate that the the transfer switch DID pull in and apply voltage to the system. I have been the troubleshooter in two homes where loss of neutral occurred (both times when crimped connections in the meter loop corroded and burned up) and in both cases appliances were damaged. One was not as severe as the other because the ground connection kept the voltage partially in check. In the other case the bonding screw had been left out of the main panel so the appliances took the full brunt of the overload.

I think Ray is on the right track, and if they did indeed have 230 coming in damage to the transfer switch (as well as a host of other devices) would be likely. Damage to the control board in the transfer switch and/or its relays could prevent power from either shore or generator from getting through. The transfer switch selects (generator OR shore) (with shore being dominant) and feeds the main breaker. Power from the main feeds branch breakers, and one of the branch breakers feeds the inverter/charger. In the inverter, (branch power OR inverter power) feeds (through breakers in the inverter) one or more branch circuits that go to some outlets and certain appliances. Make sure that the new owner understands the difference between "ground" and "neutral" as too many people confuse the two.

Could be a shorted bulb. Rare, but it happens.

Thanks Tom, I think I'm back on planet Earth now. In my career in industrial controls I've encountered auxiliary trip breakers many times, but have never seen one in residential or mobile application. (One could reasonably include GFCI breakers in that class, but...)

Dennis, maybe I'm asking the wrong question. The OP's statement that "all the breakers were tripped" is what got my attention. With normal breakers there is no way in hell they could ALL trip. My assumption then was that they were "auxiliary trip" breakers and that the aux input was controlled by some smart monitoring system. Am I close or am I totally off in the weeds somewhere?

Question from curious bystander: I am not familiar with the intellitech system. What exactly is it supposed to do? From the symptoms it would appear that it operates auxiliary trips on the breakers; is this correct?

I spray "Gunk SC" on the engine side, wait for at least 30 minutes, then spray from the outside at a car wash. As stated above, don't get too close with the high pressure or you can damage the radiator.

Hi Van, I'll humbly correct you on a couple of points: Yes you CAN pour liquid propane at atmospheric pressure, and you CAN fill a tank that is higher than the source. On the farm we regularly filled the tractor tanks, above eye level for my 6 foot 1 inch height, from a tank barely 2 feet off the ground, and could transfer the 40 gallons to the tractor in about 3-5 minutes. The key is the bleeder valve that every propane tank is fitted with. After making the connection the bleeder of the destination tank is opened to "bleed off" vapor, thereby reducing pressure in the destination tank. Opening it wider reduces the pressure more, making the fill take less time at the expense of wasting a bit more propane. (Of course this is no problem out in the middle of a field where the gas dissipates as fast as it's vented, but definitely not recommended inside a building or if there is absolutely no wind.) If you watch the operator when they are filling your motor home tank, or a portable tank at the dealer, they will always open the bleeder at least a small amount even if using a pump. The bleeder is also a fail-safe level gauge. It is either on a tank fitting at the 80% level or is connected to a dip tube that reaches down to 80%. When the propane level in the tank reaches 80% the bleeder will start to spray liquid propane out, letting you know that the tank is full. Most motor home tanks are fitted with a float valve that blocks off the fill line around 80%, but it's not a good idea to rely on it. If it fails to shut off the tank could be accidentally filled completely full. Full tanks overpressure if the temperature rises, causing the relief valve to open. (Been there, had the soiled underwear to prove it!) It can also allow liquid propane to enter the regulator, possibly with dangerous results. How do you get liquid propane at atmospheric pressure? Simple: release the pressure on it. The liquid will boil, causing it to cool down. As soon as it cools to below minus 44 degrees F it will stop boiling and remain a liquid. Of course it will continue to evaporate as it picks up heat from its surroundings, but in a well insulated container the evaporation rate can be quite low. While experimenting I would fill a thermos bottle with liquid. Closed off with a loosely fitted cork stopper it would remain liquid for hours.

Ray, I was referring to the ubiquitous 20 lb. capacity tanks used for gas grills. I honestly dont know how "RV" got tacked on there. My "setup" is just a high pressure hose with a fitting on one end that matches the fill fitting of the RV and a fitting on the other end that matches the portable tank. After careful reflection I don't think I'm willing to post the procedure for making the transfer. Instead I'll tell you all the reasons you SHOULDN'T do it. Propane in the tank is a FLAMMABLE liquified gas under high pressure . If the fittings are undone with liquid in the hose the liquid will rush out under high pressure and instantly become cold enough to cause frostbite. If the liquid splashes on to clothing or porous gloves it can hold the subzero temperature long enough to cause serious injury. In order to create a pressure differential to move liquid from one tank to the other the bleeder valve on the destination tank has to be partially opened to allow FLAMMABLE gas to escape. The operator must stay close enough and be confident enough to quickly reach into a flame and close the bleeder if the gas ignites to prevent a major fire. If you feel like you are ok with all the above I will offer one observation: portable tanks do not deliver liquid if standing upright and some have a float valve inside that shuts off flow if quickly inverted. I learned how to handle propane as a young man, filling propane fueled tractors on the farm. The operation was learned by watching it done, with a few words of caution thrown in, and was practised enough to become second nature. Thinking about telling an unknown stranger how to do it gives me pause.

I have a coaxial switch box with ins for antenna, aux., satellite and vcr and outputs for front tv, rear tv, and vcr. Not sure of it's origin but they do exist.

I have never had to fill outside my home area so can't comment, but I do sometimes give mine a little shot from a "Drug Store RV bottle". I had a local propane supplier make up a hose that lets me transfer from a small tank to my RV. Cost less than $50 as I remember and very handy to have when dry camping.

If the hose has degraded to the point that it can not be reconnected you might consider trying again past where it exits the engine compartment and making up the lost length with a short hose. Hoses degrade much faster at high temperature and it could be in much better condition outside the hot engine area. Such was the case with my A/C suction hose; it was hard and crumbling where it passed near the exhaust manifold and turbo, but almost as good as new past the firewall. You might check on the cost of the whole length before making the decision. I haven't bought any hydraulic hose lately but I doubt it's gotten any more affordable!

That is a reusable fitting. It can be removed, the hose cut off, and reinstalled with hand tools. Watch this to see how it's done: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=42KuU4vP3VU Be careful to get all the debris out of the hose after you cut it off, and be aware that the wire braid in the hose LOVES to hurt your hands. USE GLOVES and take care.

It's an rgb to composite video converter. I'm guessing that the IR remote selected which input/output ports were used. Probably was used to feed high quality video from a game or a vcr to the tv.

It's possible that the doorbell is using 12 volt DC instead of the transformer.

There are several things that can cause a flame to be lost including (as Jim B notes above) a high temp cutout switch, an intermittent sail switch, incorrect fuel/air ratio, burned/corroded burner, damaged firebox and probably others I don't know about. If the on/off cycling is regular (always about the same amount of time between cycles) that would point to the high temp shutoff. If the timing is erratic (sometimes a short run, other times a long run) that would point more toward a fuel/air problem or another air or fuel issue causing the flame to blow out. Update: Reading your tune up kit contents reminded me of another fairly common issue. Another thing that will cause erratic cycling is the flame sensor losing contact with the flame. This causes the controller to THINK that the flame is out and turn off the gas valve in response. If this is happening you will hear the gas valve click closed before the flame goes out. If the flame goes out first, followed by the gas valve click then the flame sensor is OK. At this point an inspection while running is going to be necessary.

In normal operation the burner should never cut off until the thermostat tells it to. It sounds like your burner is blowing out, which will cause the control board to shut off the gas, wait for purge time, and re-light it. If so, definitely not normal!

This happens when a manufacturer "cheaps out" on the design of the charger by using a Capacitive dropping circuit. While extremely cheap to make they are overloaded by pulsed or square wave power (as is produced by MSW inverters). I'm surprised that a major brand like Oral-B would do such a thing.

With two cylinder engines, note that the coil generates a spark in BOTH plugs at the same time. If one plug is not connected the other will not get a spark. You can not get a spark on either plug if the other plug is not connected. That also means that if either plug or plug wire is open then NEITHER of the plugs will fire.

Other possibilities are hot air from a vent blowing directly on the thermostat or a defective thermostat.