Frank Bergamo

Most of the big truck stops have 3 platform scales that will weight each axle separately. After weighing look at your placard behind and to the left of the driver seat. It will give you maximum weight amounts for each axle. Then adjust tag regulator to stay under max weight of each axle. It will take several attempts at weighing to achieve desired results. More tag regulator pressure increases weight on steer axle and tag axle, decreases weight on drive axle. Less pressure on tag regulator decreases weight on steer axle and tag axle, increases weight on drive axle. Hope this helps.

It also affects the steer axle. It is very easy to overload the steer axle, so make sure you get all 3 axle weights to know exactly where you are at on axle weights. Hope this helps.

It pays to be persistent! Thanks for the update.

Recheck all the terminals to the batteries. Make sure something did not get overlooked after reconnecting terminals. Cables sometimes get lost when disconnecting. It is always a good idea to photograph all connections before removing any cables to assure they get back where they came from. Hope this helps.

Mike, thanks for the update. I no longer own the motor home in question, so hopefully you have figured out your problem with your park brake. Good luck, hopefully it holds with no more problems.

Mike, I had the setup you have on a Executive Diplomat with the same problem of coach not holding on an incline. Used some brake cleaner on the drum and shoes since it is exposed to the elements. Improved the brake holding ability, but never could get it to hold completely on a steep incline. Just learned to park on a fairly level spot and also carried some wood blocks to block wheels. Not the ideal situation but it worked for me. Will be interested in your solution, as I never felt comfortable with blocking wheels and then going to sleep at night.

If you have access, left hand drill bit, works every time. Hope this helps.

Bill, does your coach possibly have an ignition solenoid? That is a good place to start. Hope this helps.

I would check the air governor. Looks like this, https://www.agkits.com/Bendix-275491---D-2-Style-Air-Compressor-Governor.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtMCKBhDAARIsAG-2Eu9VIZHKuXnUEITfLw0950OagcEzYULZtdwwtRVWILCyy7TY-YPZqtcaAhtfEALw_wcB#.YVE1IC9MEgo. Hope this helps.

Jim, yes, you can tie them together by hooking them up on the same side of the solenoid. Pretty common practice to eliminate the salesman switch. A battery disconnect at the batteries will shut down all 12 volt functions, another common practice to isolate batteries when not in use. Hope this helps.

Pry the brass ring away the the chrome ring. Hope this helps.

Mark, I would be checking those lug nuts. 145 PSI is not a torque value. Foot pounds is what you are after. Hope this helps.

Mike, to properly set the tag pressure regulator you need to weigh all 3 axles. To much pressure on tag will overload front axle. To little, will overload rear drivers. Your axle weights will be on the placard, left and back of driver seat. Hope this helps.

Kevin, have you changed your fuel filters lately? This has been discussed recently on this forum.

Scotty, the Beaver Marquis Amethyst has 1 1/2 bath in the years you are looking at. A very nice coach with side radiator and Aqua Hot. C-13, 525 HP equipped thru 2006, C-15, 600-625 HP equipped in some 2007-2009 models. Hope this helps.

Mike, your Leece-Neville is a Duvac alternator. It has a sense wire that runs to chassis batteries. If the alternator you are looking at does not have this provision you are better off getting a brand new Leece-Neville 160 or 200 amp Duvac alternator. Most people rebuild their old alternator and keep it for a spare. Hope this helps.

Mike, the leveling valves may need adjusting. Also, there are rubber grommets that connect the leveling rods that may be failing. There are two different kinds, you need to identify what kind you have. Use extreme caution if you get under coach. Make sure you block coach up so it does not come down on you. If not comfortable working under coach, take it to a professional. Hope this helps.

Joe, any good radiator repair shop can make up the filler neck, all you need is a piece of silicone hose and two hose clamps and you are good to go. You will have to drill a small hole in the cabinet to get to the lower clamp with a screw driver. Very doable and economical. Hope this helps.

David, do you have Meritor or Bendix brakes. The Meritor system uses clay based grease, a very specific process. Most shops just use chassis grease not knowing what type of system you have. Need to figure out what system you have before lubing brake calipers. Hope this helps.

Possibly the headlight switch. Hope this helps.

Chet, there is a switch valve on the fan motor that may be your problem. I replaced the switch valve on my 02’ Marquis when having problem with fan turning wide open at cold running temperatures. It turned out that the thermo/wax valve was bad and not the switch valve. The part number for the fan motor is 551-1-01303-210. White House Products is where I got both the thermo/wax valve and the switch valve. I still have the old switch valve if you can not locate a new one. Hope this helps.

Can you access it from below with something long to push up on it while someone up top pulls at the same time. A piece of PVC, shovel handle or the like? Hope this helps.

Bob, you can try to tighten up the fitting, if that does not stop the leak then it is more than likely the crimp is leaking. I have used battery lug crimpers to tighten the crimp part of the fitting with good success. Something like this, https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cable-Lug-Crimping-Tools-Hand-Electrician-Pliers-Crimper-Wire-Cable-6-50mm-10-0/123310912832?_trkparms=aid%3D888007%26algo%3DDISC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131227121020%26meid%3D1f38a4841dfc46b3a2d7b74f505dbcae%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D323715995648%26itm%3D123310912832&_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982 Trying to find someone to come to the coach with a crimping tool is another option. Hope this helps.

Moe, The 210 at the end of the part number is the temperature that the fan will run wide open when reached. You can get lower temperature wax valves, but the fan runs faster sooner with the lower temperature wax valve. I believe the lower temp wax valves were used on Monaco chassis that do not have an auxiliary fan on the AC condenser for dash AC. This allowed the fan to run at a lower temp for dash AC, keeping pressure lower, when idling or running at slower or stop and go traffic. Hope this helps

Moe, the fluid loss will be minimal. Keep the hydraulic lines up and be sure to make a note of there orientation on the wax valve. When unscrewing the wax valve from radiator, be ready to screw new one in as soon as old one is removed. Part number for wax valve is 553/1/09857/210. Whitehouse products is where I got mine. They are in the U.K., so shipping took about a week. There web site is https://www.whitehouseproductsltd.com/products/hydraulic-motors/hyd-gear-motors-fan-valves/dynamatic-fan-drive-motors-valves/553-1-09857-210-thermo Hope this helps.