Frank Bergamo

Other than an open end wrench, could you grind a box wrench down to slip between the head/valve cover? You may weaken the wrench, but if you can get it around the sensor it just might break loose. Grinding a deep well socket might also be an option. Also, I would spray it with PB Blaster or something similar for 2 or 3 days before I attempted to break it loose. Hope this helps.

On mine, when you plug in the hose it activates the vacuum. Could be a bad connection preventing the vacuum from activating. If it does start up and still will not create vacuum, then might have an obstruction in hose to vacuum.

Why would you offer this when you know it is a fire hazard. It belongs in the trash, period!

Check the bag, probably full and needs replacing.

Had one of these brakes on an Executive Diplomat years ago. If I remember correctly, lengthening the rod with the clevis puts more pressure on the brake shoes to the drum. If you get it to tight, then shoes will drag on drum. Need to find happy medium for adjustment. One thing that helps is keeping drum and brake shoes clean with brake cleaner. Your picture looks like drum and shoes are pretty greased up. Sprayed mine on a regular basis and seemed to help with brake holding when needed. Hope this helps.

Your air governor should cut out at 120-125 PSI. 145 PSI is a bit high. The governor has an adjustment under the plastic cap. CW will lower cut out pressure, CCW will increase cutout pressure. Some people set them higher to have the ability to air up tires when the max air pressure is called for. Hope this helps.

Just bought these, https://www.zoro.com/dyna-beads-tire-balancing-beads-12-oz-pk2-pr-fleet/i/G7016222/ Beat deal out there.

Yes, Rick is a great resource, and the only one that I know of, that can troubleshoot and repair the Vorad CPU. If you are having Vorad problems, he is the go to guy!

There is a relay solenoid on the pump motor. It is usually located in front of the entry door steps. The solenoid is mounted with a band clamp around the motor. Get your volt meter and see if you have power to the solenoid. Also check the trigger terminal for power while someone presses the switch inside. I found a new solenoid at a trailer parts house. They use them on dump trailers. Pretty common part. Hope this helps. Also, you can jumper the two large terminals on the solenoid to close the slides. Have someone push the desired slide retract button while jumping the big terminals on the solenoid. Do this till all slides are closed. It will get you by until you can replace the solenoid.

Used to do that back in the day to inflate dragblke slicks. Pretty cool, brought back a lot of memories!

What kind of a fill valve do you have? Is it manual or electric. If electric Red Hat valve, could be leaking past the diaphragm.

I have used Dyna Beads with the special core valves and Tire Minder sensors with no problems. What I learned was to give the tire a shot of air to clear the valve stem when checking tire pressures. It also helps to have the valve stem at or near the 12:00 position when checking. Occasionally one will get held open, just have your compressed air at the ready. Hope this helps.

It is probably your equalizer cylinder for the slide that is leaking. More specific, the hydraulic line at the crimped fitting. You can check the screwed in fittings at the cylinder for tightness, but the crimped end is most likely the culprit. I used a lug crimping tool to tighten mine and no problem since. Hope this helps.

How is that possible without being plugged in or generator running?

When things quit working, I always go back to the last thing I worked on. May just be a coincidence, but more times than not, the last thing I worked on sometimes created another problem. Good luck.

Had a similar problem, unplugged battery temp sensor and everything returned to normal. Are your batteries good, how old? That’s where I would start.

Paul Whittle is the man! I am sure he will be on soon.

Amazon also let me change my order to the GT 4000s. Should have got a package deal! Thank’s for all the input.

These drain hoses breaking are a very common problem. You can also get the hose at a hot tub or spa store. I would steer clear of the flexible fill hose as my experience has not been good with that type of hose. Also, cut the hose length as long as you can to reduce the angle at the fittings. Make sure there is clearance when slide is closed so bend in hose does not hit the retracted slide wall. One other thing I do is not open or close slide when in cold temperatures unless furnace is on, allowing hose to have a little more flex with warmer temperature. Hope this helps.

Yes. That’s why you need to weigh each time you adjust the regulator. Look at your placard to the left of your seat. Your axle maximum’s will be listed there. Using your actual axle weights, determine the percentage of the maximum weights on placard. I prefer more percentage on the drive axle than the steer axle. The tag will be way under maximum, don’t pay to much attention to the tag, focus on the steer and drive axle. Hope this helps.

I run mine around 47. You really need to weigh it after adjusting regulator. When reducing tag pressure, more weight is transferred to drive axle. I prefer more percentage of the weight on the drivers than the steer axle. It is literally a balancing act, adjusting it back and forth until you get it where you want. Hope this helps.

In my opinion, none.

The compressor could be failing also. Put a pressure gauge in the output line and see if it is building pressure. Hope this helps.

Your IC doesn’t need to be on to run refrigerator on gas. You will need shore/gen power or inverter on to run ice maker with fridge set on electric. Running on gas only will greatly increase the time in between charging batteries. The real test will come when running fridge in 90+ summer temps. Hope this helps.

Give it 24 hours. Check the door seals. Make sure they are good. Slip a dollar bill in between seal and fridge, going around the circumference of opening. If no resistance when pulling out the dollar bill, then seals may be bad. If seals are good and it does’t get cold after that, then time to decide if repair is warranted or replacement all together. At this point, residential replacement may be best option. Hope this helps.