Pepperell

6s is my old phone that’s dedicated to hotspot usage and Waze. My personal is an XS 512 Gb. 6s feeds the ubiquity external antenna and router when there’s no rv park WiFi.

I attached small angle brackets to two of the screws that hold down the dash access hatch. Then I attached an 18” by 1/2” by 1/2” piece of aluminum stock. I have Ram mounts attached to that. I currently have an Eeztire, an old Garman, an iPhone 6s Visible running Waze, and a 7” Android tablet running Copilot truck. Puts everything within my sight line. No holes in the dash.

Replacement tank is about $100. I replaced one that had rusted out.

8. Google Monaco Brochures. All will be revealed.

I had this problem with my 2003 Dynasty. The pieces that hold the top of the dipstick tube need to be adjusted so that there is no stress on the tube and it can’t vibrate. It will break a separate piece that the bottom of the tube fits on to. That piece is inserted from inside the crank case, requiring the removal of the oil pan. I had that done at Cummins 3 times! Fortunately I only paid once. The mess on the back of the coach and the motorcycle and it’s lift was prodigious. Hopefully you don’t have that problem.

In our coach the cloud has three 7/16” bolts along the street side, and hinges along the curb side, you’ll need a stool to see them. Using a socket wrench with a 3” extension unbolt the end bolts first then the center bolt. This cloud weighs upward of 60 pounds or more, so have some one ready to help lower it when that last bolt is removed. At that point all will be revealed. I have no idea what the factory used, my 2003 coach had 20 by 20 inch furnace filters. My 2006 coach has a/c loose foam type filters that can be rinsed and reused. When I ordered a replacement a/c I also ordered the plastic cover that would be used for a non cloud installation. It came with the loose foam type like you’d find on a home window a/c.

I recently had a wire in the junction box that is near the a/c air intake short out to the box due to rubbing against the box. Lots of vibration from the a/c. It may have caused an intermittent loose connection of the neutral wire, triggering a fault. Easy enough to check.

Another possibility is Jensen TV’s. These operate natively from 12vdc, thus eliminating the need to convert from 120vac. They’re also LED. Had one in my 2003 Dynasty, was reliable. Not a smart TV, we used it with a Roku. I currently have a drop down Sharp 2 piece tv in my current 2006 Dynasty, that heats the front of the coach nicely. In Texas that was a benefit on about 2 nights this year but no help on the 80 and 90 degree days that are the norm. I’m hoping it will die soon. Binge on, everyone!!

I’ll guess that after 21 years a fair amount of dust, hair, and dog fur has collected on the fans and heater cores. Would have been nice if you could just undo a couple of screws and slid the assembly out for cleaning.

Anyone have an led substitute for the oval ones? I’m thinking of trying a 6” oval truck led via the McGyver method.

I haven’t got a gauge for this on my 400, but it wouldn’t surprise me to be that high under those conditions. Ambient temperature at 2 feet above the street on a hot day is likely some amount above 100. The ambient temp in the engine bay is likely higher than that. The cac probably doesn’t cool the hot turbo charge down to ambient. The manifold is bolted to an engine block that’s at 185F. I’m not surprised it is running at 150+ under those conditions.

Our 2003 dynasty got the Samsung after the NotCold puked. I changed the inverter to pure sine wave and had 4 x 75 ah lithium batteries that replaced the lead acids. The Samsung drew practically nothing for power. I could run for 3 days or so. My current 2006 dynasty was ordered with a whirlpool side by side. Not as nice as the Samsung. It does have 8 lifeline agm’s. When they die I’ll put the 4 lithium’s in.

The front/rear selector switch may be failing.

You might want to do this with Deoxit which is for this specific use.

The connector shell and the surrounding mesh of the cable is the ground (-12v), the center insulated wire is +12v. One of the connectors has the center wire touching the shell, or one of the strands of the mesh is touching the the center wire. A voltage ohm meter (VOM) can be used to test the cable. You may have a break hidden in the cable, again testing will help detect this.

I’m pretty sure my 2006 dynasty uses a Ford super duty headlight which replaced the BMW sourced units on earlier dynasties. Which makes sense since pickups have more vertical front body work versus cars, with angled toward horizontal fronts. Perhaps the Sigs came from the truck world as well.

Yes, there is another circuit board similar to the ones in each ac unit. It’s mission in life is to take the furnace signal from the ac’s and convert it to on/off signal to your furnace/Aquahot when “furnace” is selected on the thermostat(s). It also needs to be a 10 button type like the ones in the ac’s. Mine is hidden behind the false cabinet wall that my thermostat is located on. I have to remove the shelves and the shelf standard to pry the floor and inside wall of the cabinet out. When you enlarged the hole for your 10 button thermostat, you should be able to see a tin box that the board is mounted in. It’s about 5x7x1 inches. Good luck!

Are you running the fridge on gas or electric? Gas works better. Did you have the fridge precooling for a couple of days before departing? Only load it with food that is already chilled/frozen. Propane sniffers only cost $30 or $40 on Amazon. You might want to check all your gas lines and appliances, too.

You probably won’t need to charge the LiFePO4 batteries with the alternator anyway. Your inverter/charger will charge them in about an hour or so when you plug in the shore power. And hopefully you’ve sized your battery bank to keep the fridge and furnace running for 24 hour or so. Starting the genset shouldn’t be a problem if the LiFePO4’s are above 40f. 2 & 3 cylinder diesel’s aren’t all that tough to start. Plus the lithium’s have a slightly higher nominal voltage. If you have solar, that will also help to keep the bank charged up. Background info: I added 4 75ah Relion LiFePO4’s to my 2003 Dynasty in 2016, set the modified square wave inverter to AGM, no equalize; let the alternator charge engine plus house, and went on my merry way. It didn’t seem to have any bad effect on engine or house bats. I replaced the crappy old inverter to a full sine wave type which let me customize the charge profile to float at 13.8v that the Relion’s will accept. Fast forward 3 years, the 2003 Dynasty was totaled in an accident from which I was able to salvage the batteries. Replaced it with a 2006 Dynasty. It came with 8 AGM’s which I’ll replace with the Relion’s. I have a Magnum inverter in this coach, but it has the old controller that I’ll need to replace with newer type. Also, this coach came with 4 100w solar panels, but the mppt is an obsolete Heliotrope that I have no documentation for. I don’t think I can adjust/update the charging profile for the lithium’s. I’ll likely have to replace it. Carl edit: you might try priming the genset by pressing the switch in the “stop” (prime) position for a minute or so if its cold out or been sitting for a while.

And for GPS I’ve been using Copilot Truck. You’ll need a couple or so gigs for the on-device maps, but no connection to internet is required.

If you mean replacing one battery with two, the Executives have a large engine that would be happiest with two. The more CCA, the less voltage drop while cranking to start.

Rvtripwizard.com is a good route planning app for pc. Not sure if it runs on apple. You can set distance circles on a map, which helps locate parks.

And for goodness sake have a second person around. And no one inside the coach.

Check your cables and connections for looseness and corrosion. 14 Volts means the charger is working. 9.8 v means either the cables and connections are at fault, OR the batteries have a problem.

That was on my totaled 2003 Dynasty. My current 2006 Dynasty handles this on the multiplex system. Again, that was the 120v element switch. And I could be confused/mistaken!