cbr046

I just installed 275/70's on ours, replacing same size and brand (Sumitomo). Size is what the placard said! A /80 tire will be lower profile and handle a little better, but a 295 is a wider tire . . . . When I air-down I can barely get my fingers between fender and tire (275/70), so be careful what you size up. - bob

Try find a thin lubricant. WD-40 is basically kerosene, NOT a lubricant. - bob

Is the coach on level ground? I've seen gaps grow as I level the coach on unlevel ground - the frame twists, the body twists with it. The windshield doesn't twist and sometimes pays the price. - bob

If it's an app you want I use this all the time - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.chrystianvieyra.physicstoolboxsuite Best of all it's FREE and loaded with measurements. g-force, accelerometer, compass, magnetic field strength, azimuth pitch & roll (can use for leveling), GPS satellite location & strength, tone detector, oscilloscope, spectrum analyzer, barometric pressure . . . . and a lot more! I use it to align my satellite dish. Con is no remote sensor, but is that worth $111 for a Level Pro Plus? - bob

One of our newest members produced a video on transmission filter & fluid replacement. I'd strongly consider it. As stated, the Allison 4000 process is almost identical. Enjoy the new coach! - bob

I never liked using the round bubble. I use something like this, except mine are flat on the bottom edge. https://www.amazon.com/Graduated-Scale-Level-Stick-Bubble/dp/B004LZ7DY6/ Maybe you can find what I'm thinking in the camping isle of Walmart. I like the graduated numbers for a reference, but in reality any mini level will do. Here we go - https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hopkins-Towing-Solutions-08525-Graduated-RV-Levels-2-Pack/191956106 Mine travel loose in the space between the shifter and the wall. When I arrive one goes on the window frame (mostly level front to back) and the other on the radio (mostly level left to right). I get leveling close then sit them on the counter top for fine tuning, F->B, L->R. Finally I open the bathroom door to see it doesn't move from any open position. After leveling they go back to their dash home. Actually, one rests on the switches below the shifter on top of little papers that say "power", "jacks", "antenna", etc. When the power cord is put away, the antenna is down, the jacks are up that paper gets put away, etc. and the "D" is clear. These are my checklists before I put the transmission in gear. - bob

There's a (gravity based?) leveling rod that the driveshaft may have hit while exiting. Should be one on the front also for comparison. Be careful under there! What do you consider high air pressure? - bob

Ahhh, from @amphi_sc's original quote I thought he was talking about a hotspot. We don't have enough signal for a Verizon wireless router at our sticks & bricks so they won't let us have the wireless router. For cell phones we have a wired internet based network extender that gives us a local inside the home cell signal. Not much good on the road! - b

You might see if there's a Love's, Pilot, Speedco, that will fix you up. Of course it would need to be towed there. There's also mobile diesel services. - bob

FAA Regulation! 🤣 Or maybe so they can find their motorhome late at night . . . . (I don't buy that either) - bob

They don't throttle your speed back after a XX GB during the month? I have Verizon with no data cap also, but after 15GB Samuel Morse has a faster fist. - bob

You don't need a digital antenna for your digital TV. They use the same frequencies, just send the signal different. Your batwing will be fine. You'll still need the amplifier as the batwing is a powered antenna. I'm disappointed with "smart" TV's. I've got 3 and stopped using their "smartness" a long time ago. After a year or two their OS goes out of date with no "upgrades" available and the streaming channels you love (Netflix, Prime, YouTube) won't work any more. Plus "smart" TV's are slow. Better off with a decent TV (check the reviews) and a separate Roku (or similar) that you can replace when it ages out, which is faster than tires, for sure! I do like name brands but TCL seems to got good reviews last time I looked. Not sure how it would hold up with an RV's vibration and road hits. - bob

I think I'm in Hell . . . . - b

Pulling codes requires a shorting plug, which I still don't have. Manual said to check levels so I started checking levels. PS fluid wasn't even on the stick! - bob

Any plastic trophy would be perfect, and easy to cut. Just gotta find someone with too many plastic trophies. If you're in N GA I'll hook you up. - bob

When my dash Warning light came on it was low on power steering fluid. Topped it up and the Warning light went out. - bob

And don't forget the "fire sale" on select Tire Minder systems. I needed to replace 2 sensors for my TM-77 system and the TM-88C was essentially "free" with 4 sensors. Once the stock is gone the sale is over. https://www.minderresearch.com/ Now . . . . once I got my TM-88C the display was very dim in day time. They swapped it out with a better display that works great in direct sunlight, so you might need to send it back (2x across the pond 😞 ). Customer Service has been excellent. Either that or the Pressure Pro, which also gets good reviews. - bob

Each cell in a lead acid battery is 2.2V. Whether they're connected in 3's (6V) or 6's (12V) wouldn't bother me, especially at the expense of replacement. Just make sure the 12V batteries are deep cycle. - bob

Project Farms on YouTube did a test of various penetrating oils, including 50/50 acetone/ATF. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs Another video showed the "mechanic" loosening the manifold bolt a bit, just a bit, then re-tightening, then loosen again, then tighten, working the bolt back-and-forth until it worked free. It seemed a pretty reliable way to avoid BBDS (broken bolt disaster syndrome). It might be worthwhile to replace the manifolds (both sets), or at least have them checked for warpage. I'm also a big fan of OEM parts in this case (although I'd give a thumbs up for the RemFlex gaskets). My manifold has been leaking at the manifold gasket for some time and need of being replaced. I'm too chicken to address the issue and too cheap to have it professionally done, not to mention the challenge of contorting my body into impossible positions. I've had to clean the radiators twice now as they get gunked up with soot. Good luck with yours. - bob

In my 2003 Endeavor owners manual there's outlines of the "Monaco Box" fuse locations. Make copies and paste inside your FRB. Or maybe someone can email you photos of their fuse box inside covers . . . . - bob

There's a 15A back-up light fuse in Monaco Box 2 in the Front Run Bay. - bob

Grease? I don't think there's a fitting on the steering box. Manual says no and I don't recall one. OK, so AW46 is amber . . . . except when I opened the stuff I bought it's GREEN! Tractor Supply, Mystic JT9 ISO46. NONE of the other brands specifically called out AW46 and ALL the other brands had a host of manufacturer compliances. I never knew buying hydraulic oil could be so hard. Hopefully mixing it won't be a problem . . . . . - bob

We have a place for videos, just for Monaco owners - https://www.youtube.com/@Monacoers-kx1zb - bob

My hydraulic reservoir has an amber colored fluid, like fresh motor oil, but what's dripping out of the steering box is black. Manual calls for "TF" but doesn't provide a specification. I don't know of any TF / Trans Fluids that are amber . . . . did PO substitute Rotella for (ATF?) spec'd hydraulic fluid? 😲 I'll need to top off before the next trip. What would the harm be to top off with Rotella vs ATF? - bob

And now it's my turn. 😡 Same M100-PMN31 Sheppard steering box I'm perusing Weller availability but not sure if my 2003 Endeavor 38 ( / Diplomat) uses the TAS65 Spec 126 or 052? @Cubflyer and @JDCrow what parts did you end up needing? And which Pittman Arm? TIA, - bob