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@Bobkat11208 I'm surprised your phones work at the races. When we're at a National Enduro phones are useless during peak times. I guess that's the difference between 40,000 users suddenly showing up vs 2,000. Did some reading and Calyx Institute also provides free VPN services and secure OS for Android phones. Reviews were good. They even have a page on Wikipedia. Perfect, if you're a terrorist! Biggest downside for us is the T-Mobile / Sprint network which might work for some people but historically not for me. Whenever my phone doesn't work at a location no one that's using a phone has replied "I'm on T-Mobile". It's always AT&T that works when Verizon doesn't. WOW. Might take a while to implement. Here's the original announcement. And yet I digress . . . . Lastly, ran across this article - Which Cellular Carrier is Best for RV or Boat Mobile Internet? (bottom line, "it depends") There's a multitude of rabbit holes on mobile internet! Where's Alice when you need her? - bob

I don't know if low coolant will throw a code, but the sensor could be bad or poor connection. It's on top of the coolant tank and can be checked with a volt meter (key on). I believe the transmission fluid level can trigger a warning light but maybe not a code. EZ to check - Best to check the owners manual for this procedure but basically transmission warmed up, press up and down arrows (same time) on transmission pad and wait several minutes. The selector will count down to zero and flash a low, high or ok code. Good luck, - bob

The ISL engine in JDCrow's photo doesn't match his Diplomat. We both have the ISC engine with rear radiators. I tried the "one blade at a time" installation. It doesn't work. I'm laying on a pillow now . . . - bob

@JDCrow Sorry to revive a 3 yr old thread, but how did that compressor belt change work out? I found pieces of my shredded belt laying in the bottom of the pan between radiator and fan. Can't get the new belt over the fan blades, and can only feel the bolts holding the fan on (hope I don't drop one . . . ). Meanwhile I feel like I'm going to bust a rib laying over the threshold. And everything is filthy oily sooty. We have essentially the same motor . . . . What did you have to do to replace that belt? - bob

I use an oiled "sock" over my oiled motorcycle filters. It saves a lot of dust from getting to the filter. My shop vac has a foam filter that goes over the paper filter. No, I don't oil it . . . It'd be sweet if someone made a similar sock to go over the RV paper air filter. The right density wouldn't interfere with airflow. Might not be able to oil it . . . . but imagine peeling it off, washing then re-installing it for extended filter intervals. The inner air chamber never gets exposed. - bob

Worth repeating! At campgrounds we use our own known quality tank water, but our stays are only a few days at best. I don't know what our pump psi is, but it's not enough. *IF* it ever fails I'll replace with a higher psi pump, but it pumps water and (as far as I know) I don't have soapy hair. 👨‍🦳 - bob

OP's problem is in the FRB . . . . but my ATS switches with a 'clunk' when connecting to shore power or genny power. Southwire / Surge Guard 40100. Just sayin' Danny should be able to put a finger on each solenoid and feel if the 'thud' is coming from that component. It's all 12V so no fear of electrocution, just make sure to remove any metal from the hand reaching in (wedding ring, metal watchband, etc.). - bob

Slides won't operate with the engine on, and steps automatically retract if the engine is on and door closed. Find the engine cutoff gremlin and these other issues should fix themselves. - bob

Sometimes I get a clunk also. The front left side panel around the wheel and fuel door panel aren't secured all that well and it may be wind hitting it just right. It's very infrequent in my case. - bob

After 26 hours you should be near normal temps (0F freezer, 36F fridge), certainly better than 47 / 62. It's possible you lost some of the refrigerant causing the Not-So-Cold condition. They can corrode near the flame and the horrid yellow dust gets hidden by the insulation around the boiling tube (flame part). It's non-serviceable. 23 years? Stick a fork in it. It's done. - bob

Finding the right connectors to use that existing cable is the trick. Many come close but Sony went with a proprietary connector made out of unobtanium. I went with a Chinese wireless camera then spliced into the audio wire pair to run +12V to the camera, and mounted it above the existing built in camera. I had to hack into the Sony monitor to isolate the audio pair. Now I can see the hitch (OEM) *AND* the end of the trailer (Chinese), and it's good enough to view clearance while pulling back into lane. Not the best camera (Yakry in this case) but gets the job done. I bought the forward mounted camera so I could record traffic in front. Between the split screen and horrible user interface the forward camera was a waste of money. You might consider making a shroud for brightness . . . . - bob

And with an appointment they can do the work in a few hours . . . That includes putting in a new absorption unit or compressor. - bob

I was wondering why mine would chirp once/minute . . . . End of life! I replaced it with this PANGAEA RV Carbon Monoxide & Propane Dual Gas Detector for $55 as the OEM Safety-T-Alert was over double the cost. I did have to make an adapter mounting plate to cover the huge ugly hole Monaco put in the original mount. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CBVY4WRY/ I make the mistake of soldering it in with a grounded soldering iron. My fuse is in the front run bay (2003 Endeavor). It looks like Amazon reduced the price of one of their Safe-T-Alerts dual detector to $70. MTI Industries seem to have several models that do the same thing . . . . - bob

You can read the print on the wires for extra clues, but I don't see the same connector that I have (3x3 Molex style). It may be shoved somewhere else under the dash. So much fun laying on your back twisting your body around the driver's seat jammed between the steering column and the pedals. - bob

$5000 can buy a lot of lithium / solar. Oh yeah, and a new fridge too. 😉 Does the boiler (part with the flame / heat elements) get hot? If so everything is working, except the chemistry. I've heard of the refrigerant crystalizing inside the tube and a few hard blows knocking everything lose. It might be urban legend, don't know. Worth a try . . . maybe with a rubber mallet. You might get lucky and run across a new camper's propane fridge being replaced for a residential. That's what we did but it took months to run across a unit. Good luck, - bob

Only a diverter (angled sheet of flashing). It's not the best setup as sometimes I detect propane fumes into the coach while driving. While parked no issues, and I run on propane except when parked at home. - bob

We bought a Dometic RM1350 when our Norcold 1200 bit the dust. It was a perfect fit, except the flue was on the wrong side. - bob

A relay doesn't have polarity, just inductance and resistance. Maybe if a relay had a clamping diode on it, but those are usually in circuit. It's a 560 ohm 2W, should be ~ 24ma, installed over two years ago. I should pull it out and check it but it's soooo much fun crawling under that greasy mess . . . and it's raining then turning cold. Spring is in the air, just not in the next few days LOL. BTW, the Warning Light is on with key, goes out then comes on 1 - 4 sec after the Wait to Start light goes out. It varies. What's really baffling me is it came on when I went to leave from camping. Drove 200 miles with it on, checked fluids and PS fluid was low (steering box leak). Topped it off and the Warning Light went out and stayed out for several more trips. Here's the baffling part: THERE'S NO SENSOR ON THE PS FLUID RESEVOIR! 😮 - bob

I reset misfire codes with the ScanGauge on my old gasser, so some codes can be reset for sure. I don't know that codes keep popping up. The shop just said there was a history of "hi oil pressure" codes. As long as I'm investing in a scanner . . . . which one is best to use on the road, then see and reset codes? BlueFire, ScanGuage D or a dedicated shop scanner? I remember that not having the lift pump connected would generate a Warning Light, and I have a cheater resistor in it's place, but would the lack of a lift pump generate a code to go with the Light? - bob

@saflyer I found the gremlin, and the mysterious connector "under the dash". Turns out it was inside the steering housing. I was actually chasing something else when discovered. One jumper is for headlights, the other is for running & marker lights. Next time I get a whiff of burning plastic I know where to look! - bob

If the fuse checks out ok consider this jumper I just found today inside the steering housing. The burnt part is the headlight jumper. The other jumper is for parking and marker lights. Just something to consider. - bob

Still fighting my Warning Light . . . . Would a BlueFire be able to reset a code like hi oil pressure? Scan D? Also considering a dedicated scanner like this one, except it wouldn't be very useful at 65 mph. https://www.amazon.com/Reader-Automotive-Diagnostic-Autophix-Scanner/dp/B018YSNIEY/ And no guarantee it can reset all codes. Thoughts? - bob

Just got ours in GA - Progressive increased it 5% to $1131 (annual policy) - b

Your 02 Diplomat is pretty much identical to our 03 Endeavor. I just went through this and couldn't get them to budge either. Sadly, my 40" breaker bar is a "flex" model so I only had so much movement before it flexed to an obstruction. Even with another 36" pipe extension it was no good. I did find a path through the front hatch to the top nuts, but still no joy (muscle deficiency, obstruction). This included the purchase of a 3:1 torque multiplier and still couldn't budge it. And the purchase of a 1200W induction heater. The bottom nut got hot enough to smoke but not red hot. Shoulda bought the 1800W model? I ended up writing a check. Just got it back yesterday. 🙂 - bob

TYC is a Chinese company that makes aftermarket lights, lenses and such. Probably won't be able to get just the gaskets . . . . https://www.amazon.com/TYC-11-5008-80-1-Ford-Left-Replacement/ - bob