Jdw12345

I realize this is a older post but this is the first time I’ve had a chance to do some testing. On our way to Wyoming, ripping our way across South Dakota, it’s hitting *90 and I’m running 65 mph for a steady 2 hours, pull into get fuel and did a tire temp reading with my laser temp gun, tires on the passenger side were 115-117, inner and outer were the same, tires on the driver’s side were 124-126 inner and outer were the same. I’ve never weighed my coach side to side but in my opinion the reason the drivers side was warmer was due to the wind blowing from the NW and the sun was on the drivers side, once again, jmo. I didn’t see any difference between the inner and outer tire temps on either side of the drive axle.

Your wheel seals are seeping a bit, kinda damp so you should keep an eye on it or have them replaced at your convenience not when it’s mandatory, it’s usually not convenient when the seal goes bad and then the brake shoes need cleaning or replacing, make a mess…….. It the least you should try and carry spare seals if possible, imo. Good news is, you have lots of brake shoe left!

Mine did just the opposite, after using the Jake’s they would stay on, I removed the fuse in the front run bay. Be somewhat thankful yours went the way it did, mine stayed on, melted the fixture housing and the bulb sockets. Not a huge deal but it still created some work, and obviously it doesn’t happen at home. I would try and locate the fuse and remove it so it doesn’t go the direction mine did, jmo!

Congratulations on your new coach, and welcome to the greatest Monaco owners group!

So my best friend is getting interested in buying a used coach, my question is, how does a person know if the title is truly a clear title without any liens on it? I understand that it should show on the title itself but how do you really know if it is truly clear? And how do you know if the documents that you are presented with are truly official documents? Is it best to go to the DMV with the seller and have the DMV look it up? Thank you!

I live about 45 minutes from the resort you’re currently at, I trucked for my self for many years, these are the people that did all of my alterations and starter rebuilds, I always had good experiences with them, they are on the northern side of the cities but at least you have a reputable resource, at least they did right by me. https://www.grayautoelectric.com

Thank you!

A link to the bulbs would be nice.

Brendenson Fluid Power, Andrea in Waukegan IL, (847) 689-1570 Don’t know if she is still there but a super gal to work with, I attempted to get it from Brendenson in Tulsa I believe and since I’m in Minnesota they suggested I contact the outlet assigned to my location, they respect territory, my wife is a commissioned sales rep so I actually appreciated that!

The u joints in my 87’ Peterbilt went over 650’xxx miles, all I did was grease every 5000 miles, I replaced them with preventative maintenance in mind, these u joints should last the life of the coach, I’m my opinion.

So of the three different systems that you have owned, which system do you prefer? Also, last winter in Az we lost the 120v side of our AH, the high limit sensor, I believe was original, timed out, here’s a picture or two, the contacts become loose over time, heat up and seem to fail, fwiw. I have the 100-4.

If you intend to keep your coach for years to come, I would consider removing the shift and taking it to a reputable drive line shop and have it checked for balance and to make sure it’s running true, and the “slip joint” is also referred as a “stub and slip joint” just in case someone throws that out at you. If you choose to replace the u joints I would recommend “Spicer” u joints only. It’s not likely that the stub and slip are bad “if” it’s been greased much at all, if you’ve been taking it to the same shop for regular maintenance and it’s bad then it’s probably not been greased and you might want to consider a new maintenance facility, jmo. A side note, I’ve watched a tech true up a drive shaft, it’s a pretty interesting process to watch!

In the maintenance records from the previous owner, the magnets have been replaced a couple of times, I purchased a set of spares and added them to my “spare parts bucket”. Just an idea. Thank you the links Tom!

When I replaced my controller, I replaced the controller and the valve, if my memory serves me correctly I believe it was right around $1200.00 for the complete unit, took me lees than 10 minutes to install. I believe the controller without the valve was in the neighborhood of $800.00.

That’s why I chose to go with the Danfoss controller Ivan, there’s other cooling needs besides coolant temps.

I chose to go with a new Danfoss controller from Brendenson Fluid Power, I felt that there is other requests for more fan activation than engine coolant temps. I have opened up the engine access in the closet going down the interstate with 80*-90* outside temps to observe everything under load, it’s interesting to witness the fan actuation while at road speeds. I’m sure the wax valve does the same thing. I have the three wire system, one of those wires is hot all the time for some reason!

FYI I use Gunk brand engine degreaser on jobs like that. Not the Foamy formula, just the original one..

I had a cracked drive axle housing on my first truck back in about 88 or 89 (87 Peterbilt), and as a former welder at Butler Tank I was curious when it was welded what rod was used, I do remember that the axle man at the Peterbilt dealership used a 7018 rod, technology might have changed a bit but that’s what we used back then, fyi. I’m somewhat surprised that there’s no gear lube seeping out! That’s how I noticed it back then. Good luck!

I would start with NWRV supply in Oregon. https://www.nwrvsupply.com

I have too, and after 40+ years of trucking I have a grin on my face like you can’t believe!!! 😎 One other thing I do is actually put my hand on the tires on the drive axle, you can feel if there’s a significant temperature difference!

I carry one of these on the coach at all times, pretty handy item to have along! For checking temps on everything! Tires, drive axle, brakes, engine, ………… https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-59-Laser-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B00G1V3FG8/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2ED0RDFEFC6YQ&keywords=fluke+laser+temp+gun+thermometer&qid=1686356052&sprefix=Fluke+laser+temp+gun%2Caps%2C201&sr=8-4&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc

Not that this helps your situation but when I start my coach and there is no air in the system, I stand back by the exhaust pipe and listen for the variable vanes to actuate just to confirm it’s operating. It’s pretty obvious when the air pressure actuates the vanes. I’ve never had a turbo from an ISL apart, but, I have had the turbo from my wife’s truck (05 Ford Powerstroke) off a few times for cleaning due to the variable vanes sometimes stick, at any rate, if your turbo vanes haven’t actuated in some time they maybe seized and need to be disassembled and cleaned up, fyi.

Thanks for the info!

Worn bushings on the side to side tracking rod….. maybe

Hers some more material to read. https://cms.fleetguard.com/en_NA/literature/which-fleetguard-coolant-product-right-you/lt36237