Scotty Hutto Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 I recently replaced the older Trimark keyless entry system with a new one and added a keypad. New, more secure and longer-range fobs and a keypad for those times when I don't have a fob or key... I purchased a new transceiver, fobs, and the keypad with the 20' harness directly from Trimark: Upgraded receiver, wiring harness, and two key fobs. Trimark part number 22316-01. $132.20 + shipping External keypad with 20' wiring harness. Trimark part number 36488-09. $105.48 + shipping In my case shipping worked out to $10.90 for everything for a total of $249.94. Installing the new receiver was an exercise in patience. Although the functions are the basically same, the wiring harnesses have changed over the years, so it's not plug and play. I had to re-map all of the inputs and outputs from the old receiver to the new one. Being red-green colorblind, this was a bit of a challenge and I had help from Debbie. 🙂 I removed the lower portion of the front center panel (A/C controls and 12v outlets) to get to the old receiver and install the new one. To install the keypad, I removed the passenger captain's chair and passenger console. While this sounds like a lot, the captains chair is literally 4 bolts and a plug. The passenger console, likewise, is four screws and unhook two plugs. It was much easier than expected. I first cleared away some of the gray foam insulation and was able to utilize the existing hole for the wiring harness. I ran the keypad wiring harness inside the existing split conduit down through the wheel well and along the frame on the passenger side of the generator. I had to cut a few zip ties which were replaced with like kind when done. The wiring harness then came up over the generator where there was I was able to use the existing hole in the firewall that had a wiring harness. (once all was tested and working, both holes were sealed with new gray foam sealant.) The most nerve wrecking part for me was cutting the hole in the exterior for the keypad. Most of my four years owning this coach have been focused on sealing holes in the exterior and preventing water intrusion... Here's a look: You can see the wiring for the lighted grab handle running through the opening (I didn't know it was lighted until this project! It's been burned out the entire time I owned the coach) I installed the keypad with a bead of Proflex, #8 stainless steel screws, and caulked around it with Proflex. On the inside I used the gray spray foam to seal both the entry into the coach of the keypad harness and the opening where the wiring harnesses went through the floor. Here's the finished product: Total Time: About 3 hours Total Cost: About $250 + lots of Advil that evening. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Morgan Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woody O Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 It looks good. Now, you need to replace the burned out bulb in your grab handle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Hutto Posted December 3, 2020 Author Share Posted December 3, 2020 58 minutes ago, Woody O said: It looks good. Now, you need to replace the burned out bulb in your grab handle. That’s on the list for sure. Eyeing the cracks in the acrylic and thinking of getting a new handle while I’m at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Admirial RVr Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 Scotty, Great job really looks professionaly done. I have an 2006 Diplomat similar to yours I don't remember the grab handle ever having a light. Is that wire possibly just part of the harness and offered as an option on other models? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bwolff52 Posted March 15, 2021 Share Posted March 15, 2021 Scotty, I have a 2006 HR Endeavor that I purchased a few months ago. The original owner said there was no keyless entry system but I found key fobs in the coach but they didn't work. I found the TriMark control unit behind the center console area and tried programming the fobs. There doesn't seem to be any power to the control unit. I am thinking maybe a fuse is blown. In the documentation I have there is no fuse mentioned for the keyless entry system. In your replacement did you find a fuse anywhere for the system anywhere. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandick66 Posted December 4, 2021 Share Posted December 4, 2021 Scotty, I ordered the keypad for my 2012 Diplomat and Trimark told me it is plug and play. Once I get it I’m going to plug it into the Trimark module and make sure everything works. I have a couple of questions for you regarding the installation. What tool did you use to cut the hole? What brand/type of foam sealant did you use? Thanks, Dan D, 2012 Diplomat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Hutto Posted December 4, 2021 Author Share Posted December 4, 2021 1 hour ago, dandick66 said: Scotty, I ordered the keypad for my 2012 Diplomat and Trimark told me it is plug and play. Once I get it I’m going to plug it into the Trimark module and make sure everything works. I have a couple of questions for you regarding the installation. What tool did you use to cut the hole? What brand/type of foam sealant did you use? Thanks, Dan D, 2012 Diplomat I used a drill bit to drill holes at each corner, then used a jigsaw to cut the hole. I covered everything with blue painter’s tape to keep the fiberglass from splintering (not sure it would, but preventative…). It also help keep from marking up the paint around the hole. For the foam seal I used Great Stuff Outdoor foam sealant: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JDD1ZR3/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_NXSKGVC063MHGNAJP0PN On 12/3/2020 at 11:42 AM, Admirial RVr said: Scotty, Great job really looks professionaly done. I have an 2006 Diplomat similar to yours I don't remember the grab handle ever having a light. Is that wire possibly just part of the harness and offered as an option on other models? I believe it is. It was not connected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandick66 Posted December 4, 2021 Share Posted December 4, 2021 1 hour ago, Scotty Hutto said: I used a drill bit to drill holes at each corner, then used a jigsaw to cut the hole. I covered everything with blue painter’s tape to keep the fiberglass from splintering (not sure it would, but preventative…). It also help keep from marking up the paint around the hole. For the foam seal I used Great Stuff Outdoor foam sealant: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JDD1ZR3/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_NXSKGVC063MHGNAJP0PN I believe it is. It was not connected. Scotty, Thanks for the quick reply. That is exactly the way I was thinking of doing it, but I thought I’d ask first. Thanks again, Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandick66 Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 Well, I installed the new Trimark keypad. Running the wiring harness from the dash wasn’t too bad, but in hindsight I think I would use a pin removal tool and take the pins out of the connector to make firewall penetration easier. Like Scotty, I was nervous about cutting a hole in the side of the coach. Trimark does not leave a very big sealing area around the hole. I took that into consideration when cutting the hole and actually cut it too small, so I had to enlarge it. Unfortunately, I made it a little too big and when I inserted the keypad it was a little loose. I probably could have used a sealant , but I decided to use a 3D printed bezel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvingstuff Posted December 24, 2021 Share Posted December 24, 2021 On 12/1/2020 at 8:49 PM, Scotty Hutto said: I recently replaced the older Trimark keyless entry system with a new one and added a keypad. New, more secure and longer-range fobs and a keypad for those times when I don't have a fob or key... I purchased a new transceiver, fobs, and the keypad with the 20' harness directly from Trimark: Upgraded receiver, wiring harness, and two key fobs. Trimark part number 22316-01. $132.20 + shipping External keypad with 20' wiring harness. Trimark part number 36488-09. $105.48 + shipping In my case shipping worked out to $10.90 for everything for a total of $249.94. Installing the new receiver was an exercise in patience. Although the functions are the basically same, the wiring harnesses have changed over the years, so it's not plug and play. I had to re-map all of the inputs and outputs from the old receiver to the new one. Being red-green colorblind, this was a bit of a challenge and I had help from Debbie. 🙂 I removed the lower portion of the front center panel (A/C controls and 12v outlets) to get to the old receiver and install the new one. To install the keypad, I removed the passenger captain's chair and passenger console. While this sounds like a lot, the captains chair is literally 4 bolts and a plug. The passenger console, likewise, is four screws and unhook two plugs. It was much easier than expected. I first cleared away some of the gray foam insulation and was able to utilize the existing hole for the wiring harness. I ran the keypad wiring harness inside the existing split conduit down through the wheel well and along the frame on the passenger side of the generator. I had to cut a few zip ties which were replaced with like kind when done. The wiring harness then came up over the generator where there was I was able to use the existing hole in the firewall that had a wiring harness. (once all was tested and working, both holes were sealed with new gray foam sealant.) The most nerve wrecking part for me was cutting the hole in the exterior for the keypad. Most of my four years owning this coach have been focused on sealing holes in the exterior and preventing water intrusion... Here's a look: You can see the wiring for the lighted grab handle running through the opening (I didn't know it was lighted until this project! It's been burned out the entire time I owned the coach) I installed the keypad with a bead of Proflex, #8 stainless steel screws, and caulked around it with Proflex. On the inside I used the gray spray foam to seal both the entry into the coach of the keypad harness and the opening where the wiring harnesses went through the floor. Here's the finished product: Total Time: About 3 hours Total Cost: About $250 + lots of Advil that evening. Now that you have one, be VERY consious of "low battery" conditions. On ours, a low battery will (No I don't know why????) cause your locks to... LOCK!!!! Leaving you outside your coach PRAYING that you have your door keys with you. Please don't ask me how I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Hutto Posted December 24, 2021 Author Share Posted December 24, 2021 1 hour ago, rvingstuff said: Now that you have one, be VERY consious of "low battery" conditions. On ours, a low battery will (No I don't know why????) cause your locks to... LOCK!!!! Leaving you outside your coach PRAYING that you have your door keys with you. Please don't ask me how I know. Thanks for the heads-up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted December 25, 2021 Share Posted December 25, 2021 Awesome professional job, Scotty! We use our keypad constantly. I have had to replace the pad twice now but this last one was an upgraded one which has lasted the longest. One thing I do quite often is when we unlock the entry door with the keypad I will hit 7 to unlock the bay doors too just to keep the mechanisms working correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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