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Main Shut Off Switch


miniedmo

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13 minutes ago, astgerma said:

What is the problem with Marinco BEP battery switch.

 

Specifically, the BEP switches are known to fail prematurely.  Several members of this group have reported on this, but my personal experience is that I was informed of the defect at my first Monacoers’ Gathering in 2018.  When I went to replace my BEP switches, they literally crumbled.  There were signs of overheating.

My understanding is that the original switches are rated for the constant current load, but not the peak current, which exceeds the maximum rating of the switch.

Recommended replacements are Blue Sea and Guest.

I don’t know if Marino/BEP has modified the design since these switches were originally used, but I do know both the Blue Sea and Guest switches have higher current ratings.

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46 minutes ago, Paul A. said:

I opened the link and there are -4- to choose from. That's why i asked.

Actually there are 10 different ones on that page that you can select from but Scotty's link takes you to the Single Circuit ON/OFF one which is all you need.

Edited by Dr4Film
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Just to be clear, the recommended model is the Blue Sea 9003E.  On/Off; rated for 350A continuous; 600A intermittent; 1200A cranking capacity.

Bill Groves is the one who helped me select the correct switch.  Sure do miss him!

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I swapped my Marinco ones out based on recommendations.  One was ok and the other one...well the internals fell apart. I was lucky. 

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Terry, try doing a search on Amazon for the same part.  I bet the link copied is one of many choices.  I ordered mine new from Amazon. 

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  • 1 month later...

While not exactly on subject, I just learned that my inverter/charger is NOT on the house battery disconnect switch. I can’t find that it’s on any switch.... it’s always connected to the house batteries. Could be because my house batteries are in front of the wet bay and the inverter is in the same bay.

Anyone else have this situation?

When adding my DIY 600AH of Lithium’s I used a B Sea 900E 2 battery switch as I didn’t replace the house AGM’s that still have some life left in them.

Edited by Ivylog
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11 hours ago, Ivylog said:

While not exactly on subject, I just learned that my inverter/charger is NOT on the house battery disconnect switch. I can’t find that it’s on any switch.... it’s always connected to the house batteries. Could be because my house batteries are in front of the wet bay and the inverter is in the same bay.

Anyone else have this situation?

When adding my DIY 600AH of Lithium’s I used a B Sea 900E 2 battery switch as I didn’t replace the house AGM’s that still have some life left in them.

Dick, I attached the wiring diagram of my Trace/Xantrex RV-2012 Inverter/Charger which may or may not be like yours. The Battery Disconnect switches that you speak of are for killing 12 VDC to the House or the Chassis from their respective battery banks NOT the Inverter. In other words, it does not kill the ability of the Inverter to keep the House Battery Bank charged.

The Inverter takes the House battery bank to make 120 VAC or it takes 120 VAC to charge the House battery bank. When you turn off the House Battery Disconnect switch you are essentially killing the ability of the House Battery Bank to supply 12 VDC to all locations.

Based on the wiring diagram below it appears that the Inverter is wired directly to the House Battery Bank with a fairly large Inverter Fuse and no disconnect. I also attached a photo of that FUSE. By not having a disconnect too it appears that is one of Monaco's shortcuts to save money.

Below is a cut/paste from my Inverter Manual

Wiring the Inverter/Charger
975-0209-01-01 2–11
DC disconnects:

The DC circuit from the battery to the inverter/charger must be equipped with a disconnect and over-current protection device. (Refer to your applicable installation code.)

Type:

This device usually consists of a circuit breaker, a “fused-disconnect,” or a separate fuse and DC disconnect. Do not confuse AC circuit breakers with DC
circuit breakers. They are not interchangeable.

Rating:

The rating of the fuse or breaker must be matched to the size of cables used, in accordance with the applicable installation codes.

Location:

The breaker or fuse and disconnect should be located as close as possible to the battery in the positive cable. The U.S. NEC (NFPA 70) specifies that the
protection can be no further than 18 inches from the battery. If using a fuse and disconnect, the disconnect must be installed between the battery and the fuse.

Rear Run Electrical Bay-02.jpg

Rear Run Electrical Bay-03.jpg

Trace RV-2012 Schematic.pdf

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I would look at how everything is wired.  It sounds as if your inverter is hardwired straight to your batteries or a post between the switch and batteries.   I have a boat with a bilge pump like that.  If the bilge gets enough water to raise the float it kicks on no matter what the battery switch is set to.  

My house batteries leave the batteries and go straight to a switch before going any further.  I can turn mine off for a couple of months without draining batteries.  

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Thanks Richard for info ^^^. The only time I turn the disconnects off is when working on the system.  I hooked my solar 12V at the inverter thinking it was powered off having opened the disconnect ... fortunately no sparks.

I didn’t replace my AGM house batteries, yet, and mounted the 600AH if Lithium inside. Used a 2 battery switch thinking I could switch between AGMs or Lithium into the inverter BUT, with the inverter hard wired, I’ll have to run power (charge) the AGMs. 

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