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Water leak from rain


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I have been chasing a water leak above the door when it rains. Today I cleared out old silicone and dicor and added new proflex above the door, awning, upper beltline etc in the area above the door.  I also added eternabond tape where there was none. Unfortunately the rain moved in again before I could add dicor back and the leak was just as bad as always.  I don't think the dicor is gonna help.  Has anyone dealt w similar issues?  What worked?  

20210808_171451.jpg

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I had same problem. Finally cut a rain gutter out of some aluminum flashing about 3” wide and bent it into L shape about 1”x2” with the 2” part sagging downward a little just so the door will clear it when closing. The length should be a few inches wider than top of the door. I painted mine black about the same color as the door frame. I mounted one end slightly higher on one end to create a runoff. I mounted it using Lexal which is same as silicone but sticks better and does not yellow.  It works great so far and last week was in 2 downpours. If you want a picture let me know and can get it for you in a few days. 

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@klcdenver

thanks for the input.  Yes, please post a pic.  

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Hello all, I to had a leak over my door. Turned out the pop rivets holding the awning to the coach were gone. Used 1/4 inch pop rivets and the leak was gone. Hope this may help.

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I initially thought it was gonna be the door, but with my wife standing inside and me outside w a water hose, it did not leak until we got the water above the awning. I appreciate all the input and will be looking at each idea and report back. Keep em coming in the meantime.   Thanks!

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Try covering suspected areas with clear gorilla tape, then removing a area at a time. The cap-roof joint, then the belt line, and on down. The door frame is a normal suspect.

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I took the time to check my rig.  The gutter that is above the door actually does interrupt the beltline..  It looks like the cut the belt line and mounted the gutter and applied a caulk to seal it.

In my case a gap has developed in the caulk, which I will fix.  I am in the process of redoing the sealant on the beltline.  Pretty big job.  I bought a set of heavy plastic scraper from Harbor Freight that do a good job of removing the old sealant. 

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-nonmarring-scraper-set-95832.html

These are pretty stiff but he end come so a sharp point, makes quick work of pulling the old sealant out.   Fortunately I have a good place to work on it, garage with concrete floor and set of scaffolding. 

Edited by jacwjames
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Klcdenver, I notice in your picture you have a little gas shock (whatever the name is) on your frame and door.  My question is, is that to replace the exorbitantly expensive entry door hinge[$169] ?  

thanks in advance

Martje

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One thing to consider is that just because you see water in a spot doesn’t necessarily mean that the source is nearby.  The roof structure consists of several layers, a fiberglass sheet, a plywood layer, foam block insulation and the interior panels.  Each layer is somewhat waterproof so the water can travel for some distance. when I bought my coach, the prior owner was struggling with a water leak that showed up on either side neat the windshield.  Attempts had been made to caulk the inside, which, of course was futile.  It took a bit of detective work to discover the source.  It turned out that it was missed caulk at the tv antenna.  The caulking was done with the antenna was in the down position and the area under the mast was not caulked.  The water could travel from that To either side, depending on the tilt of the coach.  Some years later, another leak showed up.  This one was from the satellite dish on the roof.  The mounting consists of several metal plates that form the connection to the roof.  They are first screwed tp the roof and then the dish Is fastened to those plates.  They are long enough to allow a bit of flex in the mounting.  They were caulked around the roof mounting screws and the edge of the plate.  The flex end of the plate is free to move up and down with the sat antenna.  However, water could get under the plate and penetrate the roof screw holes  because there was no caulk there.  The lesson is that water can travel for some distance between the source an where you see it inside.

 

Dick L. ‘04 Imperial

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3 hours ago, rcl285 said:

  It took a bit of detective work to discover the source.  It turned out that it was missed caulk at the tv antenna.  The caulking was done with the antenna was in the down position and the area under the mast was not caulked.   

Could you post a picture?

I didn't think there was anyplace under the mast that would allow water in, unless it was an inch or so deep.

*edit* Did they just stop sealing the base to roof joint on each side of the mast :classic_huh:?

Edited by 96 EVO
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21 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Could you post a picture?

I didn't think there was anyplace under the mast that would allow water in, unless it was an inch or so deep.

*edit* Did they just stop sealing the base to roof joint on each side of the mast :classic_huh:?

It was that who ever did the caulking didn’t raise the mast when they caulked.  The base wasn’t sealed completely.  
 

Dick L. ‘04 Imperial

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  • 1 month later...

I have an update to my water leak above my door.  I thought I had it, but nope. So today, I started spraying around the door and then waiting 20 to 30 minutes and watching for water.  I kept working my way towards the back of the coach and when I got the water to the back part where the awning attaches, the drip started.  I found a place where some of the sealant had broken free and I scraped the whole area, cleaned it well, applied eternabond tape on the seams and Dicor to follow.  Finished just before dark.  I have a pic post scraping, but didn't get one after the sealing.  I'll work on that later.  Now to wait and see.  If that doesn't do it, the next most likely place is the roof vent nearby above the 1/2 bath. 

Steven

20211010_175210.jpg

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Keep in mind, it's going to take some time for a trickle of water to make it's way forward to above the door.

You may have moved on, heading towards the rear, while the water was slowly snaking it's way forward.

Best of luck! I know exactly how frustrating it can be trying to find leaks!

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6 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Keep in mind, it's going to take some time for a trickle of water to make it's way forward to above the door.

You may have moved on, heading towards the rear, while the water was slowly snaking it's way forward.

Best of luck! I know exactly how frustrating it can be trying to find leaks!

I agree. That's why I waited approx 30min after shutting off the water in each spot before moving to another spot.  I hope this is it, but at least I know it's not in the last 6 feet 😅. Thank you. 

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