entry step

[Dale n Deb]

Hi,

Our entry  steps are not working right.  The motor is working but they do not go in all the way.  Instead of stopping,  it goes back and forth for awhile  and then stops  with it not quite up all the way.  Going out, it shakes awhile before the motor stops.  We had the magnet changed recently that lets the steps go in and out.   Anyone have any ideas?

[Dennis H]

Take a look at your entry doorjamb and door. There should be two brass prongs that are supposed to make contact. They are about 1/4" square. They get dirty. Clean them gently with a emery board and then try it....Dennis

[Scotty Hutto]

Mine acted similarly prior to the motor going bad.  I think it may have broken a tooth on the gear. New step motor fixed it for me. 

[Bob Nodine]

16 hours ago, Dennis H said:

Take a look at your entry doorjamb and door. There should be two brass prongs that are supposed to make contact. They are about 1/4" square. They get dirty. Clean them gently with a emery board and then try it....Dennis

Those prongs are for the door lock and are not part of the step circuitry.

 

7 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

Mine acted similarly prior to the motor going bad.  I think it may have broken a tooth on the gear. New step motor fixed it for me. 

Scotty,

You say the steps will not go all the way in? Is there an obstruction? Have you lubricated them? There is a turnbuckle connector that you can take loose underneath and check if the steps can be moved all the way in manually. Could be something wrong with the gear box on the motor. The switch in the door can be tested with a magnet. Place a strong magnet on the switch in the door frame with the door open and the system should think the door is closed and pull the steps in. Remove it and the steps should go out.

Edited May 17, 2020 by Bob Nodine

[Admirial RVr]

We had a very similar problem with our steps ( 2006 Dip ) Had to disconnect the turnbuckle and tie the steps back to get home. Turned out the step motor was bad . Tested motor using external 12 Volt battery. Replaced motor and all was well. Short time later had to replace  control module . 

Don T.

[Dale n Deb]

Thanks, we will check the turnbuckle. It has been lubed recently.  

[eddie4ne]

On 5/16/2020 at 10:18 PM, Scotty Hutto said:

Mine acted similarly prior to the motor going bad.  I think it may have broken a tooth on the gear. New step motor fixed it for me. 

We had our steps stop working . We have had to take the arm that pulls them in and out off and bungee them in for travel. Hubby took the motor apart and found the nylon gear had teeth missing. Researching he found that an electric window gear was a replacement. With the gear replaced - we are right as rain!

[coastal_front]

Like several others, when my steps started acting up it turned out to be the motor. I think the replacement was about $50 at Advance Auto.  If memory serves, I believe it was the power window motor from a Ford Taurus - divers’s side rear door, I believe. It’s always surprises me that the motor is down there unshielded and lasts as long as it does. 

[Tom Cherry]

The motor is more suspect....and needs to be tested.  The motor is a power window style.  There is probably several articles on replacement.  NAPA and the boxes stock them.  If it is the single step Lippert, then there was an issue with the controllers when Lippert bought CoachStep and moved them.  The controllers are prone to moisture.  Lippert began to pot or encapsulate the PCB.  Some folk have had issues.  Mine was not a failure to work....but a moisture issue.  I sealed the wiring harness with silicone.  That helped, but then when you had some standing water (very small amount), the "Step Out" light would come on until it dried out.  I tried all the fixes such as the bulb grease on the connectors and such.  NOTE....you could look out the window or in the convex lower mirror and the step was IN....just a false signal from the controller.

Finally, under extended warranty, the controller was replaced.  Problem was....when I got it home....they did NOT work or were erratic.  Called the tech.  He said it MIGHT be the motor and suggested the old "whack it".  The whack it fix is supposed to reseat the permanent magnets that are adhered or glued to the motor housing.  NOPE.  

Then I cleaned and replugged in the harness.  Bingo.  That was in 2015 or so and I have YET to have a failure nor a light.

My advice....UNPLUG and clean (contact cleaner) the harnesses.  THEN try it.  If it fails then....you probably have a motor issue.  The motor also has an overload (I think) like most power motor windows are supposed to have to prevent pinching fingers.  maybe not.  You should be able to manually apply power and it work....and reverse the polarity and it work the other way.  I THINK you can use a 12 VDC source and not have to pull the motor to test it.  If you pull the turnbuckle, then you will not have a load.

CAUTION....UNPLUG THE MOTOR BEFORE you do anything on it....it will BITE you....!!!!

[lotosrggp1]

Several years ago my kwikee steps jammed out just before we were to leave on a trip. Doing a web search I found this is a common problem that most have fixed with a new Taurus motor, which I did. I didn't think it fit great but I did get us on the road. Worked fine for a while, until it didn't. It quit working again but fortunately I still had the original motor and found a blog posting by Chris Bryant RV. Here is the address, but at this time the link is broken, but credit where credit is due per his ok:

http://rx4rv.com/kwikee-repair-part-2/ broken blog

If your Kwikee steps simply get jammed, and you are getting power to them (you can hear the box click when you open or close the door, and the under step light is going on and off), quite often it is just these small plastic parts that are bad- not the whole motor. The symptoms of failure for these parts are that the step will get stuck in the extended or retracted position, yet the step is still getting power.

As the plugs become obround in use they create a bind.

Dorman 74410 Window regulator gear plugs, available at most parts stores or Amazon for less than $10.00. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-74410-Window-Regulator-Gear/dp/B000CO96SG/ref=sr_1_2?crid=36YDLH4FULSH&dchild=1&keywords=dorman+74410+window+regulator+gear+plug&qid=1590809516&sprefix=Dorman+7441%2Caps%2C262&sr=8-2

Basically take the motor off the step, pull a cover from the drive side to expose the gears and 3 gear plugs. Replace the plugs and test the motor.

I would have added pictures but I didn't figure out how to attach existing pictures.

 

[Pduggs]

A quick an easy way to check if the motor is the problem or not, is apply external power to it. To do this get under the coach and find the 2-wire coming out of the motor to a connector,  leading to the control module. Disconnect and apply 12 VDC to it.

I merely used jumper cables with one end attached to my toad’s battery and inserted two wires into the connector and attached to the other end of the jumper cables. The motor if working properly, will cycle the steps in and out.

Be careful to keep any part of your body away from the step and make sure you have proper jacks or whatever,  in the event the coach lowers itself, if you have air leveling. 

You will see the control module mounted adjacent to the step. It is a black plastic box with lots of wires coming out of it. This module is sometimes the culprit as it is exposed to the elements.  Release the two connectors and the ground wires removed and the 3-4 screws holding the module removed, and the module will be in your hand. Make sure the ground connection is clean. I could open mine up to see the circuit board. I found it slightly damaged. Checking continuity of the soldering lines on the board, I found 2-3 damaged. You could replace the board or try adding solder to repair, which I did successfully. 

There is also a fuse under the passenger armrest tied to the step switch.  open up that compartment and put a small light in there  Find the wires running from the back of the door switch to a black plastic inline fuse container  open it up and pull out the fuse.   I believe it is a 5 amp fuse. 

Another common problem are the door jam magnet circuitry. I found one of my electronical connectors on the coach jam was bad. The two on the door are just magnets. The two on the coach jam have current to them that completes the circuit when the door is closed. Using my volt meter I found one was bad. Replaced it and all worked well. Bought it on Amazon. 
by uxcell

uxcell a14061100ux0028 3 Piece NO/NC Door Window Contact Magnetic Reed Switch Alarm Security, 0.91" Width, 13.39" Length

Edited May 30, 2020 by pduggs87@gmail.com

[Mel S - '96 Safari]

On 5/16/2020 at 12:04 PM, Dale n Deb said:

Hi,

Our entry  steps are not working right.  The motor is working but they do not go in all the way.  Instead of stopping,  it goes back and forth for awhile  and then stops  with it not quite up all the way.  Going out, it shakes awhile before the motor stops.  We had the magnet changed recently that lets the steps go in and out.   Anyone have any ideas?

Dale

I believe the owner's manual for every make/model "electric RV step" contain detailed easy to follow Troubleshooting Instructions.

If you have no owner's manual for your step you should be able  find one  online.

[Dale n Deb]

My hubby took the motor off and opened up the top. There were broken pieces inside. We checked 3 different places today and no one had a replacement motor. Those that got a Taurus window motor, what year was it? Each years seems to be a little different.

[coastal_front]

The replacement motor I used for my ‘03 Camelot was ACI (brand) part # 83694. The info I can find using google says it’s for a 1986 - 1995 Taurus driver’s door. I remember taking the motor with me to Advance Auto and they cross referenced it, but that’s been about 4 years. I had to replace the plug on the new motor with the one from the old. I checked using Google and it showed Advance Auto, Auto Zone, and Rock Auto with the part. I remembered paying about $50 but I must be wrong since it now runs $65 - $80.  Still working fine four years later. 

[Dale n Deb]

9 minutes ago, coastal_front said:

The replacement motor I used for my ‘03 Camelot was ACI (brand) part # 83694. The info I can find using google says it’s for a 1986 - 1995 Taurus driver’s door. I remember taking the motor with me to Advance Auto and they cross referenced it, but that’s been about 4 years. I had to replace the plug on the new motor with the one from the old. I checked using Google and it showed Advance Auto, Auto Zone, and Rock Auto with the part. I remembered paying about $50 but I must be wrong since it now runs $65 - $80.  Still working fine four years later. 

Thanks so much. We just have to wait until we are in a park long enough to get the part shipped.

[BWatters]

A lot of good advice above.  My buddy's '98 Monaco steps were acting up so I did what little diagnosis I could do.  The electric and motor seemed fine so I removed, disassembled, and found some worn parts in the gear.  Somewhere I found on the web that these parts could be replaced with nuts.  So that's what I used and his steps have worked for three years now.   Pictures attached.

[Pduggs]

5 minutes ago, BWatters said:

A lot of good advice above.  My buddy's '98 Monaco steps were acting up so I did what little diagnosis I could do.  The electric and motor seemed fine so I removed, disassembled, and found some worn parts in the gear.  Somewhere I found on the web that these parts could be replaced with nuts.  So that's what I used and his steps have worked for three years now.   Pictures attached.

I’m surprised these nuts work. 

13 hours ago, Dale n Deb said:

My hubby took the motor off and opened up the top. There were broken pieces inside. We checked 3 different places today and no one had a replacement motor. Those that got a Taurus window motor, what year was it? Each years seems to be a little different.

I found the auto parts stores were of no help. I ordered the motor from Amazon. 

[lotosrggp1]

I would think the Dorman plugs would be a better solution, they may wear but have give. I'd rather not wipe out the whole motor. I didn't think the Taurus motor I tried worked that well. When I took it off it still worked, the step didn't.

TomS

[Dale n Deb]

4 hours ago, BWatters said:

A lot of good advice above.  My buddy's '98 Monaco steps were acting up so I did what little diagnosis I could do.  The electric and motor seemed fine so I removed, disassembled, and found some worn parts in the gear.  Somewhere I found on the web that these parts could be replaced with nuts.  So that's what I used and his steps have worked for three years now.   Pictures attached.

Thank you so much for this idea  and the pictures.  My husband did this to ours and it is working! It is even much quieted now too. Perfect timing as we head out tomorrow.

[Mel S - '96 Safari]

4 hours ago, Dale n Deb said:

Thanks so much. We just have to wait until we are in a park long enough to get the part shipped.

Dale n Deb

Most auto part stores have those moters in stock.. (no need to wait).

Edited May 31, 2020 by Mel S - '96 Safari

[Pduggs]

1 minute ago, Mel S - '96 Safari said:

Dale n Deb

Most auto part stores have then in stock.. (no need to wait).

Not my experience. I took my old motor to AutoZone, Murray’s, and Advanced Auto. None had it and it cost me a lot of time as the counter guys searched for it. I was in Pigeon Forge TN. So, maybe in a larger city they’d have it. 

[Mel S - '96 Safari]

26 minutes ago, pduggs87@gmail.com said:

Not my experience. I took my old motor to AutoZone, Murray’s, and Advanced Auto. None had it and it cost me a lot of time as the counter guys searched for it. I was in Pigeon Forge TN. So, maybe in a larger city they’d have it. 

Paul

Methinks the counter guys quit to soon...I found an exact replacement motor at Advance Auto in my small Wisconsin, (population 4,063), home town.