1998 Signature - main door lock malfunctioned, locked out.

[Frank C. Brants]

I've searched this forum & asked Mr. Google & so far, I haven't found any "magic solutions", but I thought I would try my fellow Monacoers, just in case.

I just purchased a 45' 1998 Signature Senator (no slides).  I stepped outside (leaving keys in the ignition) & closed the door behind me & now we can't get it to open.  I called a locksmith who picked the lock & got it to rotate right and left, but the door still won't open.

We are 99.9% certain the dead bolt is not the problem, as we didn't touch the dead bolt after initially opening it & we didn't drive, so it's hard to imagine how it's causing the problem.

I'm afraid I'm facing a problem similar to what James (AKA AZ (RV) Expert) described below, where the linkage stretches & doesn't have enough throw to release the top & bottom latches:

We've triple-checked all windows & they're all latched.
Does anybody have any magic tricks to get these windows unlatched from the outside, besides the tried & true "Rock Trick"?

At this point, I believe I'm left with two options:

1. Drill the rivets out of the TOP of the bedroom window emergency exit.
Has anybody tried this?

2. Remove the skylight over the bathtub (this beastie has a full size bathtub & the skylight is huge

Does anybody have any other suggestions?

Also, does anybody have a 1998 Signature that can confirm that the DOOR lock (not the deadbolt) unlocks by turning it to the Right?

Has anybody resolved this problem by Pushing on the door, then pulling on the latch?  I just read about this trick & will give it a try tomorrow.

Thank you in advance!!

Franko

[Lee Smith]

I got locked out of my 2004 signature.

I was stuck at a rest stop in Oregon on my way to Virginia.

I called a locksmith who drilled out the center rivet and removed the whole lock attachment mechanism.

He showed me how to use a pair of pliers to turn the lock open. It had nothing to do with the deadbolt.

I used a small pair of vice grips until I got home and bought a replacement TriMark lock on eBay.

When I removed the inner door panel to install the new lock, I found that a clip had come off to cause the problem.

It has been suggested that I should drill a hole opposite the emergency exit window lever so that I can use a small rod from the outside in the case that I have another lock failure.

I do hope some of this information helps.

[Frank C. Brants]

53 minutes ago, Lee Smith said:

I got locked out of my 2004 signature.

I was stuck at a rest stop in Oregon on my way to Virginia.

I called a locksmith who drilled out the center rivet and removed the whole lock attachment mechanism.

He showed me how to use a pair of pliers to turn the lock open. It had nothing to do with the deadbolt.

I used a small pair of vice grips until I got home and bought a replacement TriMark lock on eBay.

When I removed the inner door panel to install the new lock, I found that a clip had come off to cause the problem.

It has been suggested that I should drill a hole opposite the emergency exit window lever so that I can use a small rod from the outside in the case that I have another lock failure.

I do hope some of this information helps.

Thank you Lee, I will definitely give that a try (if needed, we Might have a spare key that Might work...) & post the results here if it works.

Thank you!!

Franko

[Ivan K]

If your door has rounded top corners like ours, it is a PTL door with a single striker and nothing to stretch enough to cause a problem like in the video but yes, it can be out of adjustment or a clip fell out. Our deadbolt opens clockwise. I also know that some drill a hole in window frame to push the latch up, just carefully not to hit the glass...

[Ivylog]

Is there any resistance when you pull on the handle? If none… moves easily, you’re not going to get it open from the outside. If there is resistance, while someone is pulling the handle open, push in almost at the top of the door and pound on it too…there’s latches near the top and bottom of the door. Some combination of pushing on the door and pulling on the handle may get it to open.

[Tony G.]

The deadbolt slides across into a hole in the door frame. The keyway in the outside handle causes the door handle not to work. Do you have the key for the handle? If not maybe a locksmith can try. I also see that on the picture that Ivank provided there is what looks like an electronic locking mechanism. Maybe it locks itself after a certain amount of time?

On my door if handle mechanism is locked it acts like the handle is not working.

[StephenW]

My 2001 Dynasty door handle lock is unlocked by turning key to the left or CCW. Turning CW locks the handle. Deadbolt is totally separate unit.

[MurrayD]

I’ve drilled a small hole in the metal window frame in a position that allows a wire, like a coat hanger, to be pushed in where it pushes on the latch. I’ve done this on the window right beside the door. You can then reach in to activate the deadbolt or door handle, or if necessary climb in onto the passenger seat.

[grizzly]

I always try to leave one window unlatched for this reason so I can crawl in. I can actually reach the door handle from the window by passenger seat if I get my shoulders through it. Just had to do it recently and had my daughter crawl in. lol.  Our outside handle broke so mechanism wouldn't work. My mechanic also showed me I could drill a hole along side off the broken handle and put a screwdriver through it and activate the mechanism. Since the handle needed to be replaced which was the whole mechanism it wouldn't have mattered if I had to do that. Then once opened take door apart and find the issue.

[Frank C. Brants]

Ok, great update:

We're not sure how it happened, but the Door (not the deadbolt) lock did lock when the door was closed.  Locksmith was able to lock & unlock the door lock, but the door wouldn't open.

It wouldn't open because the gentleman I purchased the motorhome from hit the battery disconnect before he left, Before the locksmith arrived & unlocked the door.

Apparently the Signature has an electric door locking mechanism that cinches the door tight after it's closed (and locked?).  It was this mechanism that was holding the door closed & it couldn't release because the batteries were disconnected.  The seller apparently forgot about this feature...

So, how did I get in the motorhome?  That's the best part - but I need feedback from the Monacoers community on whether this information should Stay posted online, because it could be a security risk for a very large group of motorhomes...

If you get up on a ladder & look down on the hinges that hold the emergency escape exit window in place, you'll find that they're secured to the motorhome with torx screws.  All I had to do to get in was unscrew the hinges from the frame & carefully pull the entire window towards me.  It came out completely undamaged & returned to it's frame with ease.

So, my question is, do we leave this information out there, or do we tuck it away & keep it safe.  

I've read Tons of "locked out of my motorhome" stories, but not a single one mentions this method of getting back inside, so I don't believe it's widely known.

If it Does become widely known, then I believe it poses a significant risk.

Thoughts?

Franko

[grizzly]

When you say cinched tight do you mean the air bladder that goes around the door to seal it when you drive? If so that should only engage when engine started and you release the air brake. It shouldn't inflate when you turn the disconnect off. I have a sig and that's how it works on ours. Its an 07

[Frank C. Brants]

8 hours ago, grizzly said:

When you say cinched tight do you mean the air bladder that goes around the door to seal it when you drive? If so that should only engage when engine started and you release the air brake. It shouldn't inflate when you turn the disconnect off. I have a sig and that's how it works on ours. Its an 07

It's not air, but I believe it's an early incarnation of your bladder system... I just purchased the coach, it's still in storage & I've only seen it in action once, but it appears to draw the door in tight - there's a slide mechanism that pulls the latch post in tight.  

I'm sure it was designed to do the same thing your air bladder does now, stop wind noise.

Franko

Edited February 7 by Frank C. Brants

[Frank C. Brants]

No feedback from the community so far regarding the emergency exit, so I Marked the Solution & will leave the post online.  

Thanks to all who replied!!

Franko

[Raymond]

This unfortunate situation happened to me; it’s not a problem with your lock and not a problem with the pneumatic bladder that surrounds the door opening. The problem is a lack of lubrication on the upper and lower latches. The latches float with the movement of the coach and if they are not lubricated they stick and when they stick the door will not open. The latches may adjust on their own in time, but if after an hour or so they don’t then through a window you will have to go. The skylight in the bathroom is not an option because there is another skylight just below the outer one—double panes—and is only removable from the inside. Once inside the coach you can push the door open. That door is remarkably secure when closed— but the floating latches are your problem. To lubricant them once the door is open—just spray a good silicone lubricant on the shaft that is visible in the threshold opening and don’t be stingy but don’t flood it either. Lube it every couple of years to prevent a reoccurrence. 

Edited February 13 by Raymond

[Frank C. Brants]

1 hour ago, Raymond said:

This unfortunate situation happened to me; it’s not a problem with your lock and not a problem with the pneumatic bladder that surrounds the door opening. The problem is a lack of lubrication on the upper and lower latches. The latches float with the movement of the coach and if they are not lubricated they stick and when they stick the door will not open. The latches may adjust on their own in time, but if after an hour or so they don’t then through a window you will have to go. The skylight in the bathroom is not an option because there is another skylight just below the outer one—double panes—and is only removable from the inside. Once inside the coach you can push the door open. That door is remarkably secure when closed— but the floating latches are your problem. To lubricant them once the door is open—just spray a good silicone lubricant on the shaft that is visible in the threshold opening and don’t be stingy but don’t flood it either. Lube it every couple of years to prevent a reoccurrence. 

Thanks Raymond, I will definitely lubricate the latches, thank you for the info!!

I'll leave this post up, despite my security concerns.  I was extremely relieved when I was able to get back into the coach without causing any damage.

Thank you!!

Franko

[SanbornNoah]

I also lubricated the door lock a month ago as suggested by mobile locksmith near me but still having issues with it, any ideas what's the right way to fix it?