Tim.dougherty@comcast.net Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 I am looking to add some additional solar to my 2004 Dynasty, I will be removing the existing 100 watt panel and adding (4) 200 watt panels for total of 800 watts. Currently I have the RV-45D original charge controller, but suspect I would need to change that out. If I install a new charge controller I would lose the ability to have solar charge both the house and chassis batteries ad the RV-45D has the ability to charge both the house and the chassis but most new MPPT charge controllers don't have that capability, what have other done to accommodate charging chassis batteries when installing a new controller? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocketman3 Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 (edited) I full- time in my 2000 Dynasty. I added 800w of solar with a Victron mppt 100/50. Ran all new wires. Later I needed more solar, so I removed the OEM stuff and added 400w with a Victron 100/30 on the oem original wires. I do not charge the engine battery with the solar. Lately, I have been contemplating adding a 100w panel a small Victron 75/15 and running wires down the back (where the air from the roof feeds the air filter). That seems easier and cheaper than adding a dc-dc charger to charge the engine battery. I don’t know of any current product that will split the solar into two different banks (and two different chemistries). Good Luck with your project! Edited February 10, 2023 by Rocketman3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 I left the original controller and panel in place and now it is charging only the chassis batteries. The new Victron is down by the inverter, using its existing cables to battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhReally Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 DC to DC charger is the way to go. Completely passive and no need to worry about different battery chemistries. Use your solar and inverter to charge your house batteries and connect DC to DC charger to be driven by solar to charge your start batteries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Dog Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 In most cases the existing wiring is too small and too long, especially between the charge controller and batteries. The original charge controller is also limited to 500 watts. Since you are using an even number of panels you can go series/parallel to the controller which will help with conductor size/length. Do your research on conductor sizes and distances as it applies to solar. Many installers don't get it right because it's hard to reroute the wiring to make the runs as short as possible and the cost of copper wire in larger sizes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vito.a Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 I'd leave the original Heliotrope solar system and devote it to your chassis battery. Or, you could also try connecting your four new 200w panels to your existing Heliotrope charge controller. I have three 225w panels connected to mine and have never exceeded it's 45 amp capacity. Panels lying flat on the roof never approach their rated output. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim.dougherty@comcast.net Posted February 10, 2023 Author Share Posted February 10, 2023 34 minutes ago, vito.a said: I'd leave the original Heliotrope solar system and devote it to your chassis battery. Or, you could also try connecting your four new 200w panels to your existing Heliotrope charge controller. I have three 225w panels connected to mine and have never exceeded it's 45 amp capacity. Panels lying flat on the roof never approach their rated output. I have not bought the 4th panel yet so I have (3) 200 watt panels, so you are saying that I can just run those three in parallel to the existing Heliotrope controller and be okay? But still need to run at least a 4 AWG wire to the batteries. Read somewhere that if you are not running a MPPT charge controller you need to run in parallel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vito.a Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 Yes. The original Heliotrope RV45D charge controller will easily handle your three 200w panels. I would parallel the 4-gauge wire with the existing wire. Unless you're going to use it to pull the new wire through. The existing wire runs from the roof down behind the refrigerator to the basement, then across the basement ceiling to the passenger side to the charge controller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 Also assuming these are 12V panels in parallel, for the PWM controller. MPPT controller for higher voltage, like up to 150V to our Victron 150/70 over factory wires. I typically see over 90V with our 4 panels in series for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim.dougherty@comcast.net Posted February 10, 2023 Author Share Posted February 10, 2023 Yes they are 12 volt panels purchased from Amazon on sale for $178 ea. from Newpowa they are $219.99 ea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Georgia Mike Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 Yes there is a dual bank solar charger that is made by Morningstar. I installed this system on my previous Motorhome and my Dynasty now. I don’t know If it will work for you because it’s only for 25 amps max. I only have 200 watts of panels just to keep both banks charged when I’m not using it but could expand to 400 watts max. https://www.morningstarcorp.com/wp-content/uploads/datasheet-sunsaver-duo-en.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CAT Stephen Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 Tim, To accomodate charging your chassis batteries, I recommend the following product: - Victron Energy Blue Smart IP67 12-Volt 17 amp 120VAC Battery Charger NEMA 5-15 (Bluetooth) https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TJK3X71/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This charger is ignition proof (IP67) so you can install it within your chassis battery compartment without concern of igniting the hydrogen gas from your chassis batteries. Just make sure that you extend the 120VAC plug to another compartment with a 120VAC outlet. This charger is also bluetooth enabled and you can customize the lead acid charging profile to optimize it for your chassis batteries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wamcneil Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 (edited) Here’s how I mounted my four panels. And two more have been sitting in the garage for quite some time waiting for me to get around to it… Personally I would retire the old controller. In theory it might support 540watts, but if your controller is above the entry door like mine was, the length of undersized wiring between the roof and the batteries is absurd. I never attempted to measure it, but I bet you’d have a big voltage drop at 45a. Plus, mppt will allow you to wire the panels series a downsize the wires (at least between the panels and charge controller). I ran new cables down the fridge vent into the basement, and put the new controller there under the fridge opposite the transfer switch. Conventional wisdom says run solar directly to the batteries, but I ran cables forward to the inverter bay and charge batteries through the 4/0 cables already in place. If you feel the need to have a separate panel for the chassis batteries, you could use the old control and wiring. Personally I think it’s a lot cleaner to use a simple dc/dc converter for this purpose. I put mine in the high current box where the original lippert maintainers were mounted. IMO a sophisticated charger is not needed for this purpose. All you really need to do is trickle charge the chassis batteries. Cheers Walter Edited February 11, 2023 by wamcneil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivylog Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 04 Dynasty has a BIRD that once the house batteries are up to 13.8, will automatically start charging the engine’s, assuming the contacts in the BigBoy are not corroded…common, easily cleaned. A mppt controller is more efficient and the current solar wires are big enough IF you run your panels in series… higher voltage. Mount the mppt controller next to the inverter so the 12V cables are short. 600W might give you 25 amps for a net 10 amps into the batteries over 10 hours. Yes, a Dynasty will easily use 15 amps unless you turn the inverter off… go for the 800w if you dry camp often. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wamcneil Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 Yeah, mine had two diode battery isolators (one for the alternator and one for the house charger). So I’m not sure why they needed to also have a dual bank solar controller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amphi_sc Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 I kept the 45D with 600+ watts, may be close to 675 as I got test panels they (USA Solar) randomly pulled off the line for quality control and they tested at least 225. With the flat angle, etc, the Alladin might show close to 30 amps on a good day. Used original 8 ga wiring as with the full wall slide & res fridge it wasn't going to be easy pulling new wire. Yes it's inefficient but with the bay freezer and I watch some TV, I'd have to run the Genny some anyway every day or two as my roof is too crowded for much more & leaving walk space... I've debated about adding another 200+. On the other hand, if the bay freezer is unplugged and we are sightseeing most days and don't watch a movie the panels keep up pretty well on good days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterskier_1 Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 I left the original 100 Watt splitter panel on the roof. I use it to charge the chassis battery. I threw out the old PWM solar controller and replaced it with a new MPPT controller. Since i added more solar panels, i had to add an additional MPPT controller for a total of 2 for the house batteries. I have separated the chassis system from the house system, neither charges the other from any source. - Rick N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moiras Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 I am not an expert on solar and im tired of doing that all the time. I cant tell you the trouble i had with Wellsprings in Shipshewana IN putting in my lithiums and solar. Anyway, i put my lead acid chassis on the existing RV45D but changed the wire over to the house terminals, cause the engine terminals were limited. I also removed the 100w and put in a 200w. I put in a midnite controller with the highest rating i could to handle 1200 watts. I have 3 lithium house batteries that charge very quickly. I have a dc to dc charger. I need another lithium but dont have the room. I put in a dual dc compressor frig which kinda sucked that up. With the single compressor i could charge the batteries while hubby watched tv. Since the parasite draw on the chassis is a problem, i put in a 3amp maintainer hard wired to the batteries, from the rear closet. I have a 2003 signature. My inverter is in the middle of the coach. I mounted my midnight controller in the rear closet. The solar wires come down the rear scoop on the roof. I disconnected my BIRD. I rarely use the big inverter anymore. I bought a 1000w portable inverter and use it for the TV. I have always used my ac generator for the microwave/convection oven and i have a propane stovetop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moiras Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 Also i added a cb to my rv45d controller and can use it as a on/off switch for that controller. The rv 45d is in the middle big bay on the ceiling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W7BE_Bob Posted February 12, 2023 Share Posted February 12, 2023 A Bird as I have or a DC-DC charger will take care of the chassis battery. I used 3x 250W panels in series for 750W with a MPPT Controller. Could add another panel in a 2x2 series parallel configuration, can't go 4 in series due to panel Voc. I also raised the panels to better use the roof space and eliminate shadows from the A/Cs etc. There are many misconceptions about raised panels and the function of bypass diodes for a series connection. Below is a link to the install. http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28119528.cfm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim.dougherty@comcast.net Posted February 25, 2023 Author Share Posted February 25, 2023 Thank all for your replies, I believe I have the information to proceed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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