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AquaJet ARV55 Pump Check Valve question


Scotty Hutto

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Question for the group... I have an idea what I want to do, but would like the wisdom of a multitude of counsel...

I replaced my original ShurFlo pump (had a built in check valve) a few years back with a AquaJet55 pump (original AquaJet brand; not Remco). Due to a series of unfortunate events, that pump gave up on me late last year. I replaced it with the Remco 55AquaJet ARV. Since replacing it, I've been having a problem with short pump pulsations, and the fresh water tank filling when connected to city water (City water diverter valve set to "City", not tank fill).

All of this points to either a check valve issue (problem 1), or a problem with the city water diverter valve (problem 2).  I went the easy route first and checked my pump's check valve, only to discover it doesn't have one. The specs for the Remco 55AquaJet ARV say that it does have a check valve, but mine is not there. The city water diverter valve on my coach does not have a check valve.  Ergo, I currently have no check valve (so, definitely problem 1).

I also have a spare city water diverter valve from a 2005 HR Imperial.  When checking it out, I discovered it has a brass Watts check valve built in.

So, here are my options:

1) Add the plastic check valve from Remco (about $8) that fits in the output port of the pump.  This would have the setup identical to the OEM setup. This addresses problem 1.

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2) Use the "new" diverter valve with the brass Watts check valve.  The brass Watts check valve seems much more robust than the plastic valve fitted to the pump. This addresses problems 1 & 2.

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3) Do both?  Would a "belt & suspenders" approach be creating issues to have two check valves in series (one at the pump and another upstream at the diverter valve)?

Thoughts? Suggestions?

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My Windsor has the brass check valve as part of the diverter valve.  Mine started to bypass a little so I replaced it, somewhat of a pain but my diverter valve is plumbed in used the winged/threaded connectors and I was able to take it out to replace the check valve.  This is what I used https://www.ebay.com/itm/154315093279?hash=item23ede5751f:g:kMkAAOSwdPxgGC12&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4Du1vw9J4%2BdliGAXeCNyjSwSAnwXQjAXRwIN%2FCb8FCsue%2F9%2FdreIveYtSbyqvlsSnz5r%2BQaap354PuPV3ZTXLiubBVNnHbyZmiu6R5Njk4%2FPNAFEUlS9eFDBXlPO0broHkV%2FlBktsZjburTctGHNw%2BvGlXGuVW7O6AUkFbFuGq2VIdhq9zImhI8cej345VwsFrWo%2BHOvWN7eqME9FNSRR517xRfClgBH9gqmqwyy5GrnlNsHv0dQnPWMVf0eXkuQqlXtl9qstCwWl5zd4dx261MnAi6inyOYIYjbmnQsV9kB|tkp%3ABk9SR-zdrZHyYQ

This was pretty much a direct replacement for the check valve that was on the Swann Diverter valve which made replacing easy.  If I would have had to do some Pex cutting etc it wouldn't have been fun.

So far so good.

Edited by jacwjames
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  • Tom Cherry changed the title to AquaJet RV55 Pump Check Valve question

Scotty, a very “rousing” and long thread on your questions.  My take, since I posted snd asked questions.

1.  Put in the Remco check valve and monitor the situation.  NO JOY….as in fresh water keeps filling…..then do this.  OR if you REALLY want 100% verify that your City/Fill valve is NOT the issue, then read and do 2 or 3…. Personally, I think that the $8 solution is the FIX from the pressure issues that you talked about.  And my experience with these pumps goes back to 2010….and I carried a spare and finally, when I had a “fuse issue”….as in the inline fuse holder failed….I never should,have used it….the OEM never had it….I put in my spare….maybe 4 years ago….and the warranty replacement pump was running fine.

2.  Look at your pump installation.  If there is a shut off valve on the INLET side, then close it and see if the Fresh Tank still fills.  I marked my level and a time and date.  When my City/Fill valve was leaking, it took a few cycles with high pressure (no more than 70 PSI) to flush out the “grit” and it has not leaked in over 6 years and you know the number of nights I have spent out,  

3. If you have no valve on the inlet, then remove the quick disconnect fitting from the pump and unscrew it and plug the outlet line,  run your test again.  If it fills, or the level goes up, then that is a problem with the City/Fill.  There is usually a check valve on the valve body if you can see behind it or if you use a spy camera (cell or tablet) and look at it.  That is to pressurize the system and this check valve is NOT the cause of a fresh tank filling.  That myth finally died a few years ago…

4.  OK….after you do the above. NEVER EVER use 2 checks.  There are threads and discussions.  Your flow will be like my 77 “output”.  LOL.  TOO MUCH RESTRICTION.  I have also read many reports of pressure/flow restrictions with the conventional brass valve.  In some cases, a cheap plastic flow restrictor is better for our RV’s….  So be cautious.

That’s what I know personally and read and also learned from a few older topics where this came up.  The upgrade to the OEM  check valve should fix it….but don’t then, jump into the deep end without totally plugging the outlet line and then verifying that the City/Fill is OK.

Good Luck,

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Just a quick update…

Installed the Remco AquaJet check valve (easy!). 

Did not fix the pump cycling problem, or freshwater tank filling when on city water.  

It was easy and cheap, but not the problem. 

Next up: Finish Tom’s troubleshooting procedure, and possibly replace city water diverter valve (I have a spare on hand, so it’s another fairly easy / free thing to try. 
 

We have to attend a memorial service for a family member tomorrow, so hopefully I’ll be back at it Tuesday. 

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Further update…. Replaced the city water diverter valve.  Still have the issue with fresh water tank filling (on city water) or pump periodically cycling (with city water off and using water from tank).  Going to re-try Tom’s troubleshooting step 3 (no valve on inlet) to determine if the new diverter valve is leaking (that is a possibility, as this was not a brand new valve)

for the record…

- I’ve traced out all water lines in the coach over the past month this has been happening, and I am confident I do not have a leak in the coach  

- I do use a good (Watts) pressure regulator (with gauge), and maintain pressure around 55 psi+-  in the coach when on city water.  The Remco 55Aquajet ARV pump provides slightly higher pressure.

- The coach is certainly useable, but the freshwater tank filling and/or pump periodically cycling is annoying, and I’ve got to keep on this until I resolve it  

 

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  • Scotty Hutto changed the title to AquaJet ARV55 Pump Check Valve question
  • 2 months later...

The previous owner of my coach must have been a pretty creative guy, several modes that are nice to have.  One that was done was to move the water pump.  He mounted on the front side of the bay up high, not easy to get to when I need to work on it but it did open enough space to mount two drawers in the small bay the water pump is mounted.  The lower drawer is smaller but has enough room to store the fresh water hose.  The upper drawer is larger, easily holds the power cords and adapters.  So he took a lot of wasted space and made it very useful.

When he did the install he used a couple of pieced of flexible hose that made it easy to plumb the pump but also isolates it from the rest of the plumbing which cuts down on noise.  I can still hear the pump but it's not annoying.

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23 hours ago, J Goddard said:

@Scotty Hutto, how did the diverter valve work out? Was this the final resolution?

I am preparing to replace original Shurflow with a Remco 55AquaJet-ARV. Would you please post a photo on how you mounted the new pump? 

Thanks, Jeff

As it turned out, I had two separate but related issues. I replaced the diverter valve which corrected my fresh water tank overfilling, and also added added a backflow valve exterior to the Remco 55AquaJet-ARV (and removed the internal backflow device). 

That did not correct the periodic pulses of my pump, so I reached out to Remco Tech Support.  After walking though troubleshooting with them (including sending a video of the pump cutting on every 20 seconds for about 1-2 sec), I sent it back for warranty replacement. The Tech explained that very rarely, the diaphragm in that pump gets damaged and will cause that behavior. The Tech explained that very rarely, the diaphragm in that pump gets damaged and will cause that behavior.The new pump solved that issue and all of my water system problems are now corrected.

When replacing the pump, I added a mounting board (Trex composite decking) with closed cell foam backing to further quiet the pump.  It is now fairly quiet and I have superior water pressure.  😉

IMG_5737.thumb.jpeg.4de837fd3db953f016f78aaf49d17a40.jpeg
 

IMG_5738.thumb.jpeg.c9030b41e4ba573b560dfd9f99950287.jpeg

 

 

 

 

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18 minutes ago, Scotty Hutto said:

As it turned out, I had two separate but related issues. I replaced the diverter valve which corrected my fresh water tank overfilling, and also added added a backflow valve exterior to the Remco 55AquaJet-ARV (and removed the internal backflow device). 

That did not correct the periodic pulses of my pump, so I reached out to Remco Tech Support.  After walking though troubleshooting with them (including sending a video of the pump cutting on every 20 seconds for about 1-2 sec), I sent it back for warranty replacement. The Tech explained that very rarely, the diaphragm in that pump gets damaged and will cause that behavior. The Tech explained that very rarely, the diaphragm in that pump gets damaged and will cause that behavior.The new pump solved that issue and all of my water system problems are now corrected.

When replacing the pump, I added a mounting board (Trex composite decking) with closed cell foam backing to further quiet the pump.  It is now fairly quiet and I have superior water pressure.  😉

IMG_5737.thumb.jpeg.4de837fd3db953f016f78aaf49d17a40.jpeg
 

IMG_5738.thumb.jpeg.c9030b41e4ba573b560dfd9f99950287.jpeg

 

 

 

 

Great.  That method of a “vibration reduction or elimination” pad and a pedestal or platform for the pump has been used a lot with excellent results.  As long as youmhave the exterior backflow or check valve and removed or didn’t install the required one and have pressure….that trumps all the “theoretical” discussions that would baffle you former “fluid flow dynamics - 445” prof when you were In engineering school.  Some folks have been a bit “heavy handed” and over bought or overrated the exterior one and then complained….and some insisted on both…they are the ones walking around with soap bubbles oozing from their hair ismthey get caught in the rain.  LOL

GOOD JOB.  Thanks. NOW, @Frank McElroy and I would suggest a “Fred White WHITE Paper” for the files.  Your call…but this is a great example of how to do something that improves pressure and reduces noise…and in my case, if i every have a black tank hose (self inflicted” blow again, then the bottom of the pump, which contains the pressure regulator PCB is no longer at risk….another “experienta adoso” tale…

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Excellent.  Thanks for all the information.  Would you kindly shoot an additional wide angle photo showing mounting location? I realize that each Monaco model has uniqueness qualities but it would be helpful. 

Thanks, Jeff

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