Gashes in the LOO wall (toilet) - 1999 Diplomat - Causes & Fixes?

[Terryjean]

the wall behind our toilet has a large gash in it. I thought someone had cut wall when fixing the toilet. Then I noticed in the cabinet above it it was a smaller gash. Like the wall it’s just splitting has anybody ever had this and if so, what did you do??

tj

[Dr4Film]

Photos?

[tmw188]

Just guessing without pictures but if this coach is recently new to you does it look like something fell up against it while traveling. You can add photos very easily from your phone. 

[Rick A]

Could it be climate related? That’s seams to be the big question today. 🤣🤣

[Chuck B 2004 Windsor]

What is a LOO?

[1nolaguy]

TJ, Welcome to RVing and to the group. You do not state the make, model and year of your MH so that leaves a lot of room for guess work also you do not state if yours is a 1 or 1-1/2 bath and which one is effected. Is it an outside wall or inside wall. All of these things can be important in diagnosing your issue and making some recommendations.

Most Monaco walls are made of a thin luan type paneling with a vinyl type wall paper facing inside the coach. If the gash(s) are from the inside out it is likely they ere caused by some impact against the wall. These walls are very thin and easily damaged. You maybe able to repair with something like bondo, then sand and paint out the wall. If the damage is from the outside in that is indicative of possible other issues altogether. If the damage is severe enough you may need to replace the panel. As noted above the walls generally are thin luan like plywood that are generally held in place with brad nails and trim. By carefully removing the trim and then the damaged panel, then remove the brads from the studs (generally 1X2 fur) and then replace with a new panel. You will likely not be able to match the wall paper. I would suggest two coats of a good quality primer such as Gripper (Sherwood Williams) or Killz and then top coat with two coats of good quality latex acrylic paint. This may seem overkill but part of the reasoning in to add strength. Similarly, with a replacement wall paper. then reattach with brads and then trim. If you do not have experience and tools for trim carpentry it may be more cost effective to hire a pro for panel replacement to do this than to tackle it yourself.  

[Guest Ray Davis]

1 hour ago, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

What is a LOO?

British speak for toilet or restroom.

[Gary 05 AMB DST]

1 hour ago, Ray Davis said:

British speak for toilet or restroom.

I thought that was the way luan is spelled.

Gary 05 AMB DST

[Tom Cherry]

19 minutes ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

I thought that was the way luan is spelled.

Gary 05 AMB DST

Au contre…..you vocabulary enhancement of the day….see below….

The Australians are a bit more “primitive”.  Someone asked what you call a “bathroom” when we were on a month’s tour.  “Depends”, said our guide….  You want a bath….bathroom.  You need to stand or sit and allow waste products from your body to be expelled….a Toilet….”  Any more questions?

LOL….

[Gary 05 AMB DST]

Who would have ever guessed.

Gary 05 AMB DST

[StellaTariche]

Unintentionally funny for some of us and our rapidly aging parents:

         Someone asked what you call a “bathroom” when we were on a month’s tour.  “Depends”, said our guide….

[Terryjean]

I’ll try to get photos. It is the inside wall of toilet ,which is a room to its own. Like a closet. I just want to try and stop any more damage. The RV is 1999. Stays in fl in the winter  md in the summer.  I am hoping to bond it and put some stick on light weight tile on it .  
 

tj

[Les Hurdle]

As an EX Brit I can concur, Loo is used but very seldom

Anyway, what I experienced in my 2004 Cheetah is this.  The walls of the Toilet 'portal' are not attached to the floor.  As such they moved to the point where the door would not remain closed.  Also living up a dirt road etc meant excessive flexing.  The fix for the wall was a bunch of long screws into the floor.  However, living up a mountain in So Cal I also notice the outside flexes quite bit.  Consequently the gaps between the outside 'skin' and the internals of the loo contract overnight in the cold and open up as much as 1/8" during the day.  I enclose one pic.  The wall to the rear, right side of toilet, also 'splits.  I can see it has been caulked over the years.. coach is new to me........ I'm thinking of using adhesive glue....... thoughts?

[1nolaguy]

I am not sure if the photo posted by Les Hurdle is representative of the OP problem or something different. The photos posted by Les (thanks for posting them) is representative of fluctuation due to chassis/body flexing during movement and or swings in temperature and humidity. Walls made of wood with swell and shrink and flex with movement. Trying to prevent this by rigidly attaching it to the frame may result in cracking or splitting. they best solution is to calk the seams (when not if) separation occurs with a good quality calk. Personally I find paint-able calks containing some silicone work really well. Acrylic alone can get stiff with time and is less forgiving. 100% silicone based sealants are usually not paint-able, and will not clean up with water. DAP and Kwik both make good products. Although they are more expensive by oz I find the small tubes easier to use in the confined spaces of an RV vs the long tubes that require a separate calking gun.

[Tom Cherry]

3 hours ago, StellaTariche said:

Unintentionally funny for some of us and our rapidly aging parents:

         Someone asked what you call a “bathroom” when we were on a month’s tour.  “Depends”, said our guide….

Yes, this was a very expensive 5+ Star tour…and at 50, we were the youngest…you did catch the double entendree….

[Terryjean]

Interesting. My crack is in the middle of the wall behind toilet  . On driver side. I will try calk.  It must be stress. Because inside the cabinet is a small crack 

tj

[Tom Cherry]

7 minutes ago, 1nolaguy said:

I am not sure if the photo posted by Les Hurdle is representative of the OP problem or something different. The photos posted by Les (thanks for posting them) is representative of fluctuation due to chassis/body flexing during movement and or swings in temperature and humidity. Walls made of wood with swell and shrink and flex with movement. Trying to prevent this by rigidly attaching it to the frame may result in cracking or splitting. they best solution is to calk the seams (when not if) separation occurs with a good quality calk. Personally I find paint-able calks containing some silicone work really well. Acrylic alone can get stiff with time and is less forgiving. 100% silicone based sealants are usually not paint-able, and will not clean up with water. DAP and Kwik both make good products. Although they are more expensive by oz I find the small tubes easier to use in the confined spaces of an RV vs the long tubes that require a separate calking gun.

@Les Hurdle

Don’t go reassembling something that was meant to flex.  I have some walls that Monaco tried to renail.  Lasted 100 miles….minor.  I would use a razor knife and some TLC and remove all the old caulking.  Clean with alcohol or denatured alcohol.  Find a good caulk.  Clear (your call on color) silicone has the best elasticity and will flex.  Polyurethane with silicone is next.  Plain old cheap latex is NOT what you want.

I’d just recaulk.  If i was not the most skilled at caulking, I’d get one of the painters or plumbers doing your restoration to do it. You clean and prep.  They will do it in a few minutes.  Get a caulk gun tube as well as the smaller “toothpaste” size tube.  Then let them use one or both and do it.  Probably a 15 minute job to a pro….

[1nolaguy]

1 hour ago, Terryjean said:

Interesting. My crack is in the middle of the wall behind toilet  . On driver side. I will try calk.  It must be stress. Because inside the cabinet is a small crack 

tj

TerryJean, if your crack /split is in mid wall and not at a seam calk is not the way to go. Depending on the size ( width) of your crack, wood filler/putty may work and can be bought in a small can so not a big investment. If the crack is large (in width) I would go with bondo and possible back with FG tape. THis becomes a larger project so if you are not familiar with working with this type of material it may be better to have the repair done by someone that does. It can be messy and the off gases are smelly so be sure to use your fan while working, sanding and curing.

[Guest Ray Davis]

The walls etc are going to flex & I doubt you can stop it.  For an unknown reason, the OP's coach chose to relieve itself with a crack in the wall.  I would observe it for a while to see if it stays approx the same.  If it stays the same I would get some very thin material,  luan, Formica, or whatever you like.  cut it the size to place over the cracked wall and let the crack flex hidden out of sight.

[96 EVO]

tj...

You've got to post a pic of this.

I've never seen a wall just crack in the middle!

[Les Hurdle]

Here's a thought..... don't know how to describe this but I'll try.

If the crack is the entire length of the wall, use or get of of these vibrating cutter units and slightly widen the crack [hopefully is somewhat straight]....... somewhere I'll bet you can find a length of cabinetry wood which when viewed end on looks like a T with curved top...... various width's

Such the leg of the T in the crack with glue.......... done ;-))

[Guest Ray Davis]

15 hours ago, Les Hurdle said:

Here's a thought..... don't know how to describe this but I'll try.

If the crack is the entire length of the wall, use or get of of these vibrating cutter units and slightly widen the crack [hopefully is somewhat straight]....... somewhere I'll bet you can find a length of cabinetry wood which when viewed end on looks like a T with curved top...... various width's

Such the leg of the T in the crack with glue.......... done ;-))

Yes!!  if the crack is straight,  I like this idea.   I think Les is talking about something like this   lots of others to pick from too