Dash A/C

[Wrayj1]

Has anyone had their dash ac recharged on a 2007 Holiday Rambler Endeavor? If so, did you have it done at a rv shop or can a auto shop do it.  Also, where are the ports for recharging located?  Appreciate any help with this, we're selling and want to make sure everything is working.

[CAT Stephen]

You will need to purchase an R134a manifold set and ~3 cans of R134a refrigerant, goggles for eye protection, and insulated gloves for skin protection.  You can then use a standard R134a P/T chart to charge your systems to the correct pressure given your current ambient outdoor temperature.  The R134a low and high pressure ports of located in the area on the front of your coach on the upper left from the generator when your generator access cover is opened.  You will also find additional ports in the rear of the coach near the A/C compressor.  Just follow the refrigerant lines.

 

Almost all automotive shops will refuse to service your A/C if they can't fit your coach inside their service bay.  All truck shops will service your A/C.

Edited August 21, 2023 by CAT Stephen

[DavidL]

RV dash AC is just like auto, just longer lines, less sophisticated control systems and easier access to the parts.

Ports are either at the compressor (on the motor) or next to the evaporator or both.

 

If an auto shop wants to, they easily can diagnose / repair / recharge RV dash air.

 

rooftop units are considered generally not serviceable ie: replace them if leak.

3 minutes ago, CAT Stephen said:

You will need to purchase an R134a manifold set and ~3 cans of R410a refrigerant, goggles for eye protection, and insulated gloves for skin protection.  You can then use a standard R134a P/T chart to charge your systems to the correct pressure given your current ambient outdoor temperature.  The R134a low and high pressure ports of located in the area on the front of your coach on the upper left from the generator when your generator access cover is opened.  You will also find additional ports in the rear of the coach near the A/C compressor.  Just follow the refrigerant lines.

 

Almost all automotive shops will refuse to service your A/C if they can't fit your coach inside their service bay.  All truck shops will service your A/C.

Are you sure on R410a?  Never saw that on an RV.  R134 like auto.  And we are talking Dash air, not roof air - right?

[CAT Stephen]

3 minutes ago, DavidL said:

RV dash AC is just like auto, just longer lines, less sophisticated control systems and easier access to the parts.

Ports are either at the compressor (on the motor) or next to the evaporator or both.

 

If an auto shop wants to, they easily can diagnose / repair / recharge RV dash air.

 

rooftop units are considered generally not serviceable ie: replace them if leak.

Are you sure on R410a?  Never saw that on an RV.  R134 like auto.  And we are talking Dash air, not roof air - right?

That was a typo that I corrected.  Thank you...

[TomV48]

Mobile RV service did if for my prior owner when he had is all tuned up to sell.   I have the service ticket.  The guy purged, evacuated installed leak check and something around 3 lbs of R134.  Charged him an arm and a leg.      The service was done three years and 8 months ago.  Year and a half later and I lost coolant down to where cooling was not great.   Slapped on my auto gauges, pressures were  a bit low.  I added about 1 1/2 lbs. until pressures looked good enough.  Cost me about $25 (California prices) and it has been fine since.   Will check pressures before we hit the road next month.  I carry a can with built in low side gauge in the rig.   All seems well. 

[Garry Donohue]

Check to make sure the belt on the compressor is tight enough. Mine was loose and as soon as I tightened it, Dash Air worked. 

[vito.a]

Most of these coaches need a recharge once a year.  They just sit for too long in between trips. 

You can purchase an inexpensive set of gauges from Harbor Freight and R134a refrigerant and learn how to do it yourself.  

[Wrayj1]

Vito, thanks for the encouragement, 10 years ago I could have done it. Today at almost 80 with a few issues I can't contort my body to get into tight places.   It's a pain to accept, but I'll have to lea e it to a professional.

[veraken]

I used this to recharge my AC system

https://www.walmart.com/ip/A-C-Pro-ACP-100-Ultra-Synthetic-R-134a-Car-Refrigerant-Kit-20-OZ/353326131?athbdg=L1100

[TomV48]

I guess I'm just lucky. The fittings for my air conditioning are in the upper left-hand corner after I pull the slide out for my generator and I can reach them easily from a standing position.  Or should I say upper passenger side of the opening when I pull my generator out. If you're having to pay somebody to do it shop for somebody that's very reasonable. Auto shops want you to pull into their Bay but a good mechanic can roll that epa freon handling unit out to you. Iit's not that difficult and it's fairly portable.

[Georgia Mike]

20 hours ago, vito.a said:

You can purchase an inexpensive set of gauges from Harbor Freight and R134a refrigerant and learn how to do it yourself

I would not get gauges from Harbor freight. I purchased one many years ago and I had nothing but problems with them. I found a set of Yellow Jacket gauges used on Marketplace for $50 and they have been outstanding. Maybe they are making them better now but it wasn’t the case when I purchased them many years ago. 

[Bjohnsonmn]

Does anyone have a pressure chart for a system like mine from 2000? (Windsor 32PB) I have the gauge set and the knowhow to make it work, but don't know the pressures that my system needs. There is not a nameplate in my front or rear bay that shows the level of oil or 134 that is required for my system.

[Georgia Mike]

10 minutes ago, Bjohnsonmn said:

Does anyone have a pressure chart for a system like mine from 2000? (Windsor 32PB)

 

[Bjohnsonmn]

4 hours ago, Georgia Mike said:

 

Is this reliably universal, or do I need to adjust for the amount of piping involved?

[Ivan K]

I stop filling when high pressure at the compressor reaches the upper value for given temp at condenser. Depending where you hook up, the compressor side suction port is a bit lower than the table in my case but works fine and safe on high pressure side. Make sure you have air going through the condenser. I like to do it at high idle rpm to be closer to cruising situation. 

[Bjohnsonmn]

27 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

I stop filling when high pressure at the compressor reaches the upper value for given temp at condenser. Depending where you hook up, the compressor side suction port is a bit lower than the table in my case but works fine and safe on high pressure side. Make sure you have air going through the condenser. I like to do it at high idle rpm to be closer to cruising situation. 

Thanks! I'll be hooked up right under the condenser location in the front generator bay of the RV. Thanks for the feedback!

[dl_racing427]

On 8/22/2023 at 7:00 PM, Georgia Mike said:

I would not get gauges from Harbor freight. I purchased one many years ago and I had nothing but problems with them. I found a set of Yellow Jacket gauges used on Marketplace for $50 and they have been outstanding. Maybe they are making them better now but it wasn’t the case when I purchased them many years ago. 

Both my gauge sets are Robinair.  One is so old that it doesn't even have the scales for R134a, 😂 but it still works fine.
Any major refrigeration manufacturer should have a good gauge set though.

On 8/21/2023 at 1:53 PM, CAT Stephen said:

You will need to purchase an R134a manifold set and ~3 cans of R134a refrigerant, goggles for eye protection, and insulated gloves for skin protection.  You can then use a standard R134a P/T chart to charge your systems to the correct pressure given your current ambient outdoor temperature.  The R134a low and high pressure ports of located in the area on the front of your coach on the upper left from the generator when your generator access cover is opened.  You will also find additional ports in the rear of the coach near the A/C compressor.  Just follow the refrigerant lines.

 

Almost all automotive shops will refuse to service your A/C if they can't fit your coach inside their service bay.  All truck shops will service your A/C.

If your system has completely lost pressure, you'll need to find the leak, and also replace the filter/dryer and evacuate the system to eliminate all moisture.

If it's just a little low, adding refrigerant is a viable fix.
I have a couple older vehicles that need an ounce or so every summer. Leaks that small are difficult to locate, and not worth the trouble.

[b_faster]

On 8/28/2023 at 1:44 PM, Bjohnsonmn said:

Thanks! I'll be hooked up right under the condenser location in the front generator bay of the RV. Thanks for the feedback!

If you are reading the high side at the evaporator, front of the coach, be careful with your high side number, you will be behind the dryer, the condenser and a lot of hose.  I suggest you sneak up on it.  

[TommyL]

I to have been  using high side pressure as my full mark . Low side never seems to get up to recommended pressure. I also use equalized pressure as a guide (let vehicle set overnight, high and low side will be the same , R134a chart will tell you optimum pressure at ambient temperature for Freon setting still wether it holds 2 lbs or 10 lbs . Takes longer but I’ve got more time than money.

[Georgia Mike]

1 hour ago, TommyL said:

to have been  using high side pressure as my full mark . Low side never seems to get up to recommended pressure

I have found the same is true for mine. The low side never seems to get up to the correct pressure for the ambient temperature. My gauges hook up right at the compressor so I would think it should be at the correct pressure. Once the high side gets to the correct pressure and the air coming out of the vents is 20 degrees colder then the air going in and the evaporator is dripping condensation I’m good.

[TommyL]

Mike ,ours only has valves up front ( can’t spell schrader) . Yours in back kinda blows my theory of 40+ ‘ of suction hose causing a low, low side pressure.

08 camelot tag

[b_faster]

16 hours ago, Georgia Mike said:

I have found the same is true for mine. The low side never seems to get up to the correct pressure for the ambient temperature. My gauges hook up right at the compressor so I would think it should be at the correct pressure. Once the high side gets to the correct pressure and the air coming out of the vents is 20 degrees colder then the air going in and the evaporator is dripping condensation I’m good.

Tommy, that is what I would expect.  At the compressor, your low side will/should be lower than expected due to the length of hose and more so if you have an expansion valve vs. an orifice.   Bjohnsonmm is planning on reading up front at the evaporator, which will read lower than expected on the high side due to the length of hose and the dryer and condensor being upstream of the port. 

I also like to creep up on it for RVs and let them equalize and check against outside temperature, as that will indicate more accurately than a running pressure reading.