Winter Storage, Indoors, Outdoors?

[Joel J]

We are moving out of the coach for winter, do we need to find covered storage, or will it be OK outdoors?

Do we need electricity? We are in the Spokane area, It snows and gets cold.

Thanks for hyour advice.

[tmw188]

Simple answer is indoors is always better but can be costly. Maintaining batteries could be your challenge if outdoors. 

[Joel J]

We do have shore power if left outdoors.

A local indoor storage facility is available. But no electricity 

[Tom Cherry]

Uncovered storage will impact the paint and the UV damage to rubber and tires and plastics.  Partially covered, as in a carport cover with overhanging sides is a possibility.  As is a complete cover.

Winterizing will be a necessity if the indoor facility is not heated.  Indoors would be my preference.  Pull your batteries and set them up in a garage and purchase a 3 stage charger.  You will need about 2 amps to keep them charged.  Obviously maintaining the electrolyte level.  Pulse technology makes a desulfonating system for deep storage batteries that many bass fishermen use for winter storage.  I have a neighbor that uses it for his two trolling motors, the boat outboard starting engine battery and his vintage pickup truck.  No issues.

I’d opt for indoor…winterize and pull the batteries.  Maybe mid storage, put back in the batteries and drive 50 miles.  Run the genny and the HVAC…HP mode if equipped.  Run the furnace or Aquahot.  Drive until the tranny gets to the same temp as the engine….turn around and head back then.  Tires will deteriorate less.  Be sure to check the tires before you drive….

[tmw188]

28 minutes ago, Joel J said:

We do have shore power if left outdoors.

A local indoor storage facility is available. But no electricity 

Well I would always opt for indoors if you are willing to spend the money. You may have get creative maybe get a small generator and charge it every 3-4 weeks.

[waterskier_1]

If you have the money, and the indoor facility is convenient and has power, that would be the best.  For me, having power is much more important than having indoor storage - after all, if you weren't storing it, and were instead using it, it would be outdoors (presumably).  Even if the indoor facility has heat, unless I could get there within an hour of so of it losing electricity (including time to notify me), I would winterize it - especially if you have an Aquahot.  That is $10K or more to replace if it freezes (including labor).  I store mine outside, with electricity.  I also have solar, which it uses most of the time - it hasn't been plugged in since I returned from the FMCA Rallies last August.  I will plug it in though.  Last year I didn't, and was out of town and we had 24" of snow and cold for over 5 days - that about as long as I can last on batteries (also heating my LiFePO4 batteries).  I had to make a special trip home overnight to plug it in. 

Which brings up another point - solar.  If you have solar, and are paying for electricity, that is more justification for storing it outside vs inside. 

If you have electricity, you have an excellent smart charger built into your inverter that will maintain your batteries.  If you don't have a BIRD system, you will want (if you have not already installed) a way to also maintain your chassis batteries. 

I can't stress winterizing unless you have direct control (and are immediately available if it fails) of the heated indoor storage.  In my priorities, the closeness of having my coach in my yard is much higher than having it stored inside, but we are all different.

Lastly, you didn't specifically ask, but I do not recommend the RV Fabric Covers.  No matter how well fitting they are, they will chaf the paint.  The access is significantly limited when they are on, and lastly, most important to me is the weight.  I can't, and I dare say most of the members on here can't carry it up the ladder to the roof.  They weigh upwards of 100 pounds.  I know some that use a forklift to get it up, but you still have to unroll it, center it, climb back down (with the ladder now covered) and tie things up.  I bought one for my previous Dynasty (only 32-ft) and it weighed over 60 pounds.  I strapped it to a backpack frame, and got it up there - once.  I didn't even open the box.  I slid it back down on an extension ladder, and sold it.  Don't miss it a bit.  

  -Rick N.

[Robert92867]

In my opinion, the damage (both visible and unseen) caused by inclement weather will outweigh the costs of dry storage.

[Chargerman]

Go with indoors, winterize, air it down and make sure that batteries are fully charged and disconnect them at the terminals, not just the shutoff switches. Then forget about it till Spring.  I have been doing this for 10 years and when I return after 4 months all of my batteries are at 95% or higher state of charge. 

[Joel J]

Thanks a lot!

 I really appreciate all of your input. We are going to be putting the coach into a Fully enclosed barn with a concrete floor and no power. We will have the coach fully winterized before storing it and I will disconnect the House and chasis batteries. 

If  This does not work, I will be back online with more questions ! Thanks again. 

Joel

 

 

[waterskier_1]

18 hours ago, Joel J said:

Thanks a lot!

 I really appreciate all of your input. We are going to be putting the coach into a Fully enclosed barn with a concrete floor and no power. We will have the coach fully winterized before storing it and I will disconnect the House and chasis batteries. 

If  This does not work, I will be back online with more questions ! Thanks again. 

Joel

 

 

Do you have Lithium Batteries?  If so, then need to be heated or removed to a heated area if the temp drops below 0°F (mine are -4°F for storage).

  -Rick N.

[Joel J]

Wet batteries. And they are older, so ..... ?? 

Thank you 

[waterskier_1]

1 minute ago, Joel J said:

Wet batteries. And they are older, so ..... ?? 

Thank you 

Put a good charge on them,  and I would disconnect the negative on both banks; house & chassis. 

[Tom Cherry]

OR....pull them out and keep them properly charged, per my original post.  Keeping a good high quality charger on them will preserve them and extend their life.  You will have almost $1000 invested in the batteries.  Unless you can go over and somehow charge them...and a cheap 12 VDC charger or even a poor, cheap quality maintainer will NOT WORK....ask folks that did that.  They were overcharged....and BINGO....boiled off the electrolyte.

Just my thoughts as to how I would do it.  Other differ....

9 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:

Put a good charge on them,  and I would disconnect the negative on both banks; house & chassis. 

 

[Craggar]

I live in Alberta and have always stored my m/h's outside with no issues. Never have a problem with my batteries either for whatever reason even when it's not plugged in. This year I'm leaving it plugged in and put a trickle charger on the chasis battery. I don't think the sun does too much damage in the cold winters we get either, mine is parked beside my shop and doesn't get much sun at all so that helps. I never start it during the winter either, even if we get a warm spell I won't start it until spring. Only thing I do is go in and check the traps for mice at least once a week.

[dl_racing427]

20 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

OR....pull them out and keep them properly charged, per my original post.  Keeping a good high quality charger on them will preserve them and extend their life.  You will have almost $1000 invested in the batteries.  Unless you can go over and somehow charge them...and a cheap 12 VDC charger or even a poor, cheap quality maintainer will NOT WORK....ask folks that did that.  They were overcharged....and BINGO....boiled off the electrolyte.

Just my thoughts as to how I would do it.  Other differ....

 

I've been using these for decades. I have 2 on my coach, and another dozen or so on my collector and race cars, standby generator, and other power equipment.
https://www.northerntool.com/products/batteryminder-battery-charger-trickle-charger-desulfator-12-volt-1-5-amp-model-1500-31654

I typically get 10 years out of my batteries using these.

Edited October 24, 2023 by dl_racing427

[tmw188]

Inside is more important to me during the hot summer than in the winter. Like I said buy a small quiet inverter gen if you live close enough to go charge them every 3 weeks let’s say. Hook up thru your shore power plug. If so check on whether you should drive a ground rod into the ground for the gen. 

[Robert92867]

On 10/23/2023 at 2:20 PM, Craggar said:

I live in Alberta and have always stored my m/h's outside with no issues. Never have a problem with my batteries either for whatever reason even when it's not plugged in. This year I'm leaving it plugged in and put a trickle charger on the chasis battery. I don't think the sun does too much damage in the cold winters we get either, mine is parked beside my shop and doesn't get much sun at all so that helps. I never start it during the winter either, even if we get a warm spell I won't start it until spring. Only thing I do is go in and check the traps for mice at least once a week.

I'm impressed.

[tmw188]

The sun does ALOT of damage over time depending on your latitude. Paint, gel coat, clear coat, roof caulk, sealants, window seals and tires if not covered.

Edited October 25, 2023 by tmw188

[blue69malibu]

I am new to motor coaches but shouldn't plugging into shore power during storage keep all the batteries properly charged? 

Also, I'm not sure if I should start a new thread but my question is winter storage related.  Is it a good idea to leave the landing gear/levelers down, while being stored, to keep pressure off the air suspension and tires?  I'm guessing this will help prevent flat spots on the tires and the chassis and body from twisting if any tires leak down or if the air suspension leaks down unevenly?  

Rodney in Minnesota
1999 Windsor 40'

[MJ.STIGER]

I hear the pain in finding indoor storage in the winter. This is my first year with my coach in a winter area. 

My approach is a 100w solar panel to keep coach batteries up pair. Visit every 2 weeks. Start the coach and Gen. Run for about an hour sometimes less on the coach. And get my heaters working to warm it it. level the coach out (i am on air bags) Do a check on exterior and Tire pressure. My plan is to drive it about 30/40 mins about every month. Keep tires moving. 

And work on little additions and fixes as needed. Around here indoor storage is about $500 a month and tough to find if any. On a list for covered storage at least it would be a step up. 

[cbr046]

Lead acid batteries will self discharge over time.  I wouldn't leave them unattended over the winter, even if all cables disconnected.  At least check their voltage every month . . . .

A solar charger would be enough to keep them topped off.  Make sure it's a maintainer, not just a charger.

- bob

[Chargerman]

I don’t like to leave any power on the coach for the Winter. I disconnect the batteries and leave them in my unheated garage. I disconnect them this week and will return in early May. I do make sure they are fully charged. I have done this for years and I test each one when we return and the lowest state of charge that I’ve seen when returning was 94%. Certainly leaving them on a maintainer is also a great option and I’m not attempting to argue that point. I’m only posting what I do and why and the results I’ve experienced.

[Benjamin]

On 12/17/2023 at 1:48 PM, blue69malibu said:

I am new to motor coaches but shouldn't plugging into shore power during storage keep all the batteries properly charged?

Rodney in Minnesota
1999 Windsor 40'

You would think it should, but you'll have to check the voltage to be sure it is.  The chassis battery is often not charged from shore power, and the chassis battery often has ECU, radio hooked to it even if there's a shut off switch installed. 

It's a misconception that batteries discharge because of the cold, they actually hold a charge much longer in the cold, so disconnecting one cable and leaving them now should be fine, they are not damaged by sitting so you're not extending their life one bit. 

Solar electric puts out MORE power in cold temperatures, it is actually a design consideration for matching system components in warm climates vs cold climates.  That doesn't take into account angle of the panels, hours of sun or snow cover.  But any solar panel at all should have no problem keeping up with battery self discharge.  Not counting phantom loads if other stuff is hooked up, and not saying a tiny PV panel from the 90's is still working, but if the PV checks out in the summer, it will work all winter just fine.