Jump to content

How to remove TVs


DBRV.0

Recommended Posts

I've looked in my front TV and bedroom TV, and can't figure out for either one, how to access for service or removal.  Now primarily for removal to replace with a newer unit.  I've searched Youtube for examples, but come up short for my coach, or something similar.

Nothing is obvious for the front TV.  I'm including two photos.  Access fasteners from from where?:

- the fromt

- the rear

- the side cabinets

The best direction seems that it might be the rear panel, which feels like it has a tiny bit of play.

- Jeff

FrontTV-front.png

FrontTV-rear.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Assuming you are familiar with mounting or hanging an LED/LCD on a wall bracket, there is (or should be) a metal bracket that has FOUR (metric) screws that go through something like a big "X" bracket and that bracket is solidly mounted to a couple of vertical or horizontal braces or wood members.  Knowing Monaco...maybe they are wood.  I have never had to pull mine.  Pulled a REALLY BIG CRT out of a Winnie Gasser....Still ache.

As to the rear...  Mine has the bracket.  BUT, the decided to make it challenging.  I have to take a 10" or longer 1/4" drive extension and then put it on a nut driver and use a socket to get to the mounting bolt head.  IN SOME cases, they used a METRIC Allen head.  Mine sits on the counter top...but is attached to the wall behind it.  It comes off, since it is OUTSIDE and not framed in...easily...once I made up the extensions and figured out which bolts to remove.

I did NOT see the pictures of your back TV.  On the front, You have to remove the panel.  It has snap in locks...and then you can see.  Next up, you work from the back of the TV putting your body in a contortionist's position and wedging your head up between the shades or windshiedl and the open spaces.  A high powered LED Mag light is great.  SERIOUSLY, one individual a few years ago used an LED Miner's light...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The back panel pops off (mounted on spring clips.  The front of the box on mine has four wood plug concealing screws.  Once the back is off, the disassembly gets easier...

Just make sure to put the back on very firmly before travel, to avoid a near heart attack when braking for a corner... not that I would know from experience! Hah!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

They've covered the back access above.  My front has wood plugs hiding screws.  That opening at the top of yours used to be at the bottom of mine. I had to remove the plugs and remove screws them the cover comes out.  It's possible your front cover could have similar snap in latches like the back panel.  This is the best pic I have and I highlighted (in red) where the plugs are. 

Screenshot_20231101_072205_Gallery.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Steven P said:

They've covered the back access above.  My front has wood plugs hiding screws. ...

 

My front has finely finished wood.  No plugs.  See the photo.  BTW, my rear panel turns out to be snap-in, so I have access.  Yea!

FrontTV-edge.png

13 hours ago, Steve P said:

The back panel pops off (mounted on spring clips.  The front of the box on mine has four wood plug concealing screws.  Once the back is off, the disassembly gets easier...

As I said, the back panel is off.  I've got an all-day project today and will be at our son's place (away from the RV) for a few days, so I'll get back to this topic next week.  Then I'll post pix of the bedroom TV, which has no rear panel and no visible plugs.

Thank you all for your information and direction!

- Jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice woodwork on that front TV cabinet. No plugs is right!  I'm not sure how my rear TV came as the PO had replaced it, however, I wanted a bigger TV in bedroom and made a hinged door and mounted the new TV on the door and it latches w 2 window latches for a tight close.  Gave me extra storage behind the TV. It's not in our way and tilts down for easier viewing. 

20210608_072236.jpg

20210213_133701.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/1/2023 at 7:52 AM, DBRV.0 said:

My front has finely finished wood.  No plugs.  See the photo.  BTW, my rear panel turns out to be snap-in, so I have access.  Yea!

FrontTV-edge.png

As I said, the back panel is off.  I've got an all-day project today and will be at our son's place (away from the RV) for a few days, so I'll get back to this topic next week.  Then I'll post pix of the bedroom TV, which has no rear panel and no visible plugs.

Thank you all for your information and direction!

- Jeff

Snowflakes!

I 'had' that same Sharp TV, in that exact cabinet, and my back panel is screwed on!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I wanted to provide an update regarding my front TV.  The rear TV (bedroom) is a separate project that I won't address until the front is completed.

I was able to remove the front TV and TV cabinet.  See the included picture.  My new replacement TV is wider but shorter (height-wise) than the old TV, and less than half the weight (old is a flat screen from 2008 - the year of construction).  The new is exactly the width of the entire cabinet, so the cabinet must be modified to accommodate the new width, and something is needed to close the height gap.

At this time, I am not inclined to add to this topic with details.  Instead, I have taken video snippets of my process, and will eventually develop and post the whole as a Youtube video.

Thanks for all of the input!

- Jeff

CabinetSmallPic.png

Edited by DBRV.0
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You may consider a thin sound bar to fill the gap and get improved audio as well.  I did a "surface mount" rather than put it inside the enclosure which permitted keeping the original wood surround.  Getting the same brand sound bar as the TV should keep the number of remotes under control,  too.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

To clarify my prior statement, if anyone needs details, I will gladly enhance the following information.  Generally, here is what I did:

Remove the back panel.  Mine was snap-in.  I removed the cabinet speaker and camera because they were in the way.  I unplugged the TV and all of the HDMI cables and sound cables so when the TV was released, wiring would not hold it back.  I removed four 10mm bolts on the rear of the TV that held it up against a metal mounting bracket.  I removed around 50 (not kidding) square-head screws that held the cabinet box to: coach ceiling, dash/shade ceiling, side cabinets.  No pocket screws were removed.

[edit: when I re-install, I will utilize torx-head screws because I believe them to be easier to drive.]

Edited by DBRV.0
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi, I see you have the same coach as I do and I need to pull the TV. I'm not replacing it. I just want to hook up an Amazon Fire stick. We recently purchased the coach and the previous owner had satellite. I would really appreciate a conversation on the phone if you don't mind. My cell is 757-644-9905.

Thanks,

Jay

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This note is for all you avid readers. the curious, or adventurous.  Jay and I talked, and I pointed out that for my setup, there the OEM TV (Sharp) has two HDMI inputs. 

image.png.359605e77092a9c7f96f861594a1a93c.png

All are located on the TV in the upper right corner at the rear.  Jay wanted to connect his Fire Stick to an HDMI port on the TV.  However, I pointed out that my OEM configuration is using both HDMI ports, thus there are already two HDMI cables.  The other end of both are in the AV (stereo) cabinet over the passenger seat.  If I recall, one is for a satellite (DirecTV on mine), and one is for a DVD player.  As a tip, I believe that going to my TV's menu setup, that ports with a connection were enabled and used a bolder font, while unused connections could not be selected.  My TV is currently out and ready for disposal.

- Jeff

Edited by DBRV.0
Link to comment
Share on other sites

They are certainly obsolete.  I think my OEM Sharp is 720p, generates abundantly more heat than current flat screens, and weighs quite a bit more as well.  At least my OEM unit is/was flatscreen and not a monstrously large and heavy CRT!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I took both of mine out and after buying replacement televisions and figuring out how I wanted to mount them I took some paneling and cut out pieces to fill the gap between the cabinet and television. I stained them to match the existing wood and put a few coats of varnish on them before installing. They came out really well.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...