Part # for air intake hose

[bestins]

I have a 2008 monaco diplomat skq with 2007 cummins ISL 400 hp. , can anyone help with the part number for the air intake hose ( runs from rear driver side just below  top cap down to air filter)?  Its a 6  1/2 inch diameter hose, looks to be about 7 feet long. Its pretty thin walled if it is the stock hose. 

[klcdenver]

I recently replaced mine on my 2007. Just go to a hose supply and get the correct diameter. Measure length good because it makes a few s bends. Don't remember the length I got but it is longer than it appears. 

[Walker]

 I ordered a hose from The Blastgate Company,  1429 East 10 mile road Warren, MI.

[Tom Cherry]

Word of caution…. Mine failed.  But it was not due to “wear” but stupidity on the Monaco’s assemblers lack of “training”.  May NOT me the issue here…but this is what I learned and others chimed in.  May not be unique to Camelots.

If you replace the line, be cautious.  Mine just “drooped” of hing down from the air inlet pipe in the cap or towards the top.  OK…good connection there.

BUT it was either cut too long by the supplier or Monaco never trained the assembler.  He made the 90 deg bend….but, he did not cut off the excess or,thought it was SUPPOSED to,be that way.  So mine dropped down…straight or maybe a little bit of an angle.  THEN, he forced the end on the Air Intake filter.  That then caused the 90 degree bend to push our….really far, so the hose came down and then the 90 was under strain or stress and eventually the hose was over stressed and split.

Ideally, you drop down the hose, make the 90 and measure how long it needs to be….when it is under NO STRESS or no “lets push the bend AWAY”.

Was going on a long trip…months.  The shop tech and I put some HVAC tape on it..temporarily.  That lasted for about 10 miles.  Once I got home, I checked our fix.  Took it all off.  Three layers of Gorilla tape.  That was maybe 10 years ago.  The shop actually ordered new hard pipe and a joint.  OPPS…the drop down is NOT inline….and the air filter is actually too long….  YES, this is the Cummins OEM replacement….NOT an aftermarket or cross.  So their pipe would not work.

I did put a single wrap of Gorilla tape on the male inlet.  That adds a friction surface.  The hose really “seals”.  Been inspecting and using it.  The hose is perfect….especially my “reinforced” patch or 3 layers of wrapping.

Worked for me….some scoff at the tape.  The tape is a heck of a lot stronger than the thin rubber.  And there is no stress on the other portion,  

I DID have a slight snag or small hole where Monaco had a piece of aluminum taillight brace protruding.  Cleaned off the rough edge.  Double wrapped the pipe there.  Fixed that.

[Scotty Hutto]

4 hours ago, Walker said:

 I ordered a hose from The Blastgate Company,  1429 East 10 mile road Warren, MI.

Same. 

https://blastgateco.com/

[MyronTruex]

Larry, I finally found the files I was looking for. Sure as heck, misfiled under the paint folder. Sometimes things get shifted. my search was coming up dry yesterday. For some reason this AM I must be a bit clearer. 

I do not recall just how I got to the top clamp but as you suggested, it could have been through the shroud area. That likely needed fresh fasteners again anyway.

For others that have this setup, the flexible pipe was longer than needed and hung down a bit far but not the biggest part of the issue. The lightweight tube is exposed to road grime and gravel and I found pinholes developing in mine. Also could have been a disaster possibly picking up water if things get really bad.

The part I posted is very heavy-duty tubing. 

The one picture of the air intake makes me wonder why they put a screw-on cover up there. I do not recall now if I was able to lift anything up through there to get to the flexible tube. 

Air Intake.pdf

[bestins]

Mine is too long also, droops down some before connecting with the air filter box. Mine is doing like yours also with the small pin holes, this seems to be very cheap, thin hose. What seemed odd to me was the diameter of the hose, most seem to be in even number inch sizes, and this is not. I haven't had time yet to remover the outside cover(grill) yet, but I do think the way to access is through the shroud area. Hey Myron, next time I'm looking through the files you sent, I'll, call you first for help, I don't think I can figure out your file system. HA!!  Thanks everyone for the help.

[Paul J A]

Replace with aluminum tubing and rubber fittings like the trucks use. Eliminate all that air friction going on the that pleated duct.  https://www.intakehoses.com/

I did on our ISX 525 and it made a huge difference in the performance. 

I don't have any pictures of that .

I also went straight pipe on the exhaust. Here is a picture of my Aladdin after the intake and exhaust mods.

 

**************That is just CRUISING MPG.**************

[bestins]

Haven't thought about straight aluminum tubing. So did you also eliminate the DPF to go straight pipe?

Moderator’s EDIT.  
 

One issue per topic is a site rule.  This “add on issue” delves into areas where knowledge of the emissions as well as potential damaging of the engine could occur.  If @bestins wants to pursue this as a topic for assistance or discussion, then, do so in the proper category.  Major issues like this are monitored so that the individuals who have the technical background and such can provide input.  The Staff has a “moderating” policy where major modifications or revisions that are counter to a manufacturer’s recommendations are monitored and any opinions or recommendations that could have potentially large dollar impacts are “edited”, not censored, with appropriate warnings or rationale so that other members will understand both side and the potential consequences.  

Thanks for understanding.

[bestins]

okay I removed the air intake hose yesterday and on mine the only  way to get to the upper air intake hose is to remove the aluminum shrouds in the radiator area, then it is easy access to remove the hose to replace. The upper hose connection is clamped onto a piece of pvc that is fiberglassed in, the open top of the pvc is where the air comes in from the outside from the outer grill at top left rear of motorhome.

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, bestins said:

okay I removed the air intake hose yesterday and on mine the only  way to get to the upper air intake hose is to remove the aluminum shrouds in the radiator area, then it is easy access to remove the hose to replace. The upper hose connection is clamped onto a piece of pvc that is fiberglassed in, the open top of the pvc is where the air comes in from the outside from the outer grill at top left rear of motorhome.

Before, which my shop never did, you go to a straight pipe, use a piece of string and something like a plumb bob to see where, in relation to the intake side of the ait filter, a straight pipe will end up.  On mine, they could not fabricate an adapter and add in the 90 deg fitting.  They ordered generic parts like they had used on busses and trucks.  The OEM flex hose was the only practical way to get the upper air intake properly routed to the air filter.  They had “sort of “eyeballed” it and then spent at least an hour and finally figured out they couldn’t make it work.

Some, I think, on my Camelot, came up with an offset or maybe sort of “pushed” the connection to the air intake on a little crooked.  These members made it work.  So, never knock creativity and success.  My shop did not feel that they could install a straight pipe and a 90 and the horizontal run that met their “standards”.  They also had concerns about future replacement of the air filter.

ALL THAT TO SAY. Your rig may not have the “tightness” or position that mine had.  But my shop was critical of the flex because it ripped in the bend.  Once they realized that it was cut too long and there was excessive stress, they agreed that cutting it to fit properly and my external Gorilla Tape repair of the split was the best solution.  We monitor it and if the hose shows further deterioration or splits, they will order a heavier piece of flex and replace….sort of “it broke, was fixed, why fix it now if it ain’t broke?” logic.

Use the search box and read the topic.  Try Air Intake as the phrase and select Topics from the drop down menu “Everywhere”.  Many pictures and resources.

[bestins]

I decided to use flex duct--just ordered from McMaster-Carr hi-tempflex duct hose--red silicone coated fiberglass.  Tom how did you use the gorilla tape?  Did you put it on before sliding on the duct hose(duct hose is on top of gorilla tape) or use it over the connection and hose clamp after clamp tightened down? 

[Happycarz]

My air filter had an extra foot of flexible hose from intake, causing big J bend going into end of air filter. (Picture with yellow dotted line.)  I trimmed the hose back to fit properly. 

When I replaced the filter, I reversed it to let the drop down hose enter into the side of the air filter. Make sure you have wire mesh on the inside of filter.

Then I had to buy a 90° rubber elbow and a short aluminum connector sleeve to make it all work. Now the flexible air intake hose drops down nearly vertical.  No more stress on my original flexible hose.

Edited November 9, 2023 by Happycarz
Add picture

[justdoingit@att.net]

Is there something in place for water to exit the piping? Blowing rain will enter the intake air. Something like a duckbill valve would work…..

[Tom Cherry]

5 hours ago, Happycarz said:

My air filter had an extra foot of flexible hose from intake, causing big J bend going into end of air filter. (Picture with yellow dotted line.)  I trimmed the hose back to fit properly. 

When I replaced the filter, I reversed it to let the drop down hose enter into the side of the air filter. Make sure you have wire mesh on the inside of filter.

Then I had to buy a 90° rubber elbow and a short aluminum connector sleeve to make it all work. Now the flexible air intake hose drops down nearly vertical.  No more stress on my original flexible hose.

Very innovative.  Happy’s picture shows the issue that I had.  The reverse or “J” bend was the strain or stress point that split a seam.  My OTR guys said that it was not really a “big” issue, unless you drove on dusty roads as the split would pick up dust that ordinarily not be an issue from the air inlet.  

Happy fixed his and that looks great.  I didn’t have the time luxury, so, my triple thick Gorilla tape reinforcement of the “bend” almost looks like his “new 90” and my shop said leave it alone….and that was 8 years ago.  Both worked. I now have an alternative.

Point is….the flex hose on the Camelot is needed as the inlet with a bend does not line up.  If Monaco had cut the hose properly and had a simple bend, like Happy’s first picture….then we probably would not be discussing this.

Happy….thanks…

[Tom Cherry]

16 hours ago, bestins said:

I decided to use flex duct--just ordered from McMaster-Carr hi-tempflex duct hose--red silicone coated fiberglass.  Tom how did you use the gorilla tape?  Did you put it on before sliding on the duct hose(duct hose is on top of gorilla tape) or use it over the connection and hose clamp after clamp tightened down? 

I answered Happy’s first…these two may combine.

The tape was necessary as I had a 180 deg split in one “groove” of the flex.  I used pieces of tape that were about 3/4 the circumference of the hose….so they overlapped.  Since I was salvaging my original hose and hoping not to replace it, first cut off small sections or lengths and “fitted” or attached the hose.  Once I was satisfied that I had sufficient flex, for replacing the air filter later, I then started with the split.  i used the strips and overlapped and worked my way towards the filter as well as up the hose…towards the top.  Where the new “bend” was….at the exact (relatively speaking” most likely stress point, I went crazy.  So, in effect, I have a triple layer or lamination of Gorilla tape from the new 90 deg bend point to where the intake hose isn’t bent horizontally or vertically.  Sort of like what Happy did.

Now that sounds rather “Rube Goldberg” with no defamation or anyone intended.  But, the Gorilla tape has not frayed or come loose or needed touchup.  So, I’m satisfied and my shop says that replacement is easy and to leave it alone. I DID add a wrap to where the filter clamp is….so that the clamp isn’t rubbing over the thin hose as the “wire” in there will eventually abrade the outer coating.  If you ordered a better grade, that will not be necessary.  However, on flimsy or thin hoses, I often do put a wrap of Gorilla tape to keep the spiral wire from wearing as most, me included, tend to overtighten.   Professional Geologists taught me to use a “band clamp” slip torque “T Handle”.  Yes, they make them.  He said he started using one years ago and had fewer call backs and such.  He works on pumps with say  80 PSI and has to splice 1 1/4” black PVC well pipe.  An overtorqued or almost stripped worm screw clamp will leak faster or quicker, over time, than an under torqued one.  Just get the screw tight.  It is easy to overtorque with even a 1/4” ratchet than a screwdriver.

Hope this answers it.  After I cut the pipe properly, I just, after repairing the one split, reinforced the new bend to prevent a future occurrence and salvaged the OEM one….

[Happycarz]

If anyone else decides to follow my lead to reverse the air filter, they should make sure that the inside of the air filter has the expanded metal mesh. Not all brands have the inner structural support, so would not support “reverse” flow as mine does.  

[bestins]

On mine, rear radiator,  the air filter intake housing is in the drivers side rear compartment with the electric cord , transfer switch, surge protector and the air intake hose connects into the side of the filter housing. Very easy to change out air filters. Thanks for everyones help.