gfci 2008 Diplomat. Replaced GFCI and STILL NO POWER? Ideas?

[fredelkamp]

Occasionally my bathroom GFCI trips, usually when I switch on the inverter. Not a big pain but easy to replace right, well not so much. I read the post on here about replacing a GFCI and purchased a 20amp "Leviton GFNT2-T Self-Test SmartlockPro Slim GFCI Non-Tamper-Resistant Receptacle" since it was the only one they had that was on the "approved" list. The replacement went fairly simple even though everything on the new GFCI was backwards from the original. When I turned the circuit breaker back on the status light was green on the new GFCI, but there was no power. The directions say the GFCI is shipped tripped and to insure it is tripped, but it doesn't move, the reset button moves but the GFCI doesn't reset. The status light stays green the whole time. Thinking GFCI was bad I replaced it with a new one, but it didn't work either, so I assume I'm overlooking something and put the old one back in and it's working fine. Any guesses as to what I'm doing wrong?

Since this GFCI connects to the Inverter I should probably note that I have upgraded to a Magnum MSH3012RV Pure Hybrid Inverter Charger.

[jacwjames]

I know that Xantrex recommends certain brands of GFCI outlets to use. 

Wonder if there is a similar recommendation with Magnum. 

[fredelkamp]

2 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

I know that Xantrex recommends certain brands of GFCI outlets to use. 

Wonder if there is a similar recommendation with Magnum. 

I haven't seen any in their documentation. The recommendation for the Leviton, along with a few others was found searching "GFCI" on this site.

[jacwjames]

try wiring in the GFCI without feeding power to other outlets and see if it resets.  If it does go down the daisy chained run of outlets and connect one at a time. 

There might have been a reason the previous GFCI was tripping and the new one might be more sensitive!

[MurrayD]

It sounds like you’ve mixed up the Line and Load wires.

[tmw188]

2 hours ago, MurrayD said:

It sounds like you’ve mixed up the Line and Load wires.

I too think this might be your problem.

[fredelkamp]

4 hours ago, MurrayD said:

It sounds like you’ve mixed up the Line and Load wires.

I wish it was that simple, then it would be an easy fix. But never say never, I'll review the videos and see what that shows.

[jacwjames]

On the back of the GFCI there should be Line & Load molded into the plastic.  Connect the incoming power to the line side.  Load goes to the outlets. 

[fredelkamp]

1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

On the back of the GFCI there should be Line & Load molded into the plastic.  Connect the incoming power to the line side.  Load goes to the outlets. 

Yep, that's there, the old one has the line on the bottom and the new one has the line on the top. Two circuits connect to line and one to the load, so only one circuit is protected.

[Gweedo]

I just went through this, mine kept tripping when switching from shore to inverter.  With help from Tom Cherry and a few others, I  put in a new GFI, and put the fridge outlet on the line not the load.  This way I bypass the gfi to the fridge.  Try unplugging the fridge and see what happens.   GFI's get weak, replace with a reputable brand.  my inverter is a magnum.  If you haven't had the issue and it's new, probably just a weak GFI, hope this helps

[lake49068]

Since all the outlets downstream from the GFI are "daisy chained," a loose connection at one of those may cause the GFI to trip or act funny.  Had a similar problem, changed out the GFI and the tripping continued.  Remembered a similar problem written up on this site and started checking the downstream outlets .  Found the loose wire (think it was the ground) on the 3rd of 4 outlets on the chain.  

[FLynes]

Out of curiosity, are you running a small space heater at all? I ask because we do and, if Brooke or I forget to turn it off when she’s blow drying her hair, the GFI will trip every time.

[Tom Cherry]

On 12/2/2023 at 1:31 PM, fredelkamp said:

Occasionally my bathroom GFCI trips, usually when I switch on the inverter. Not a big pain but easy to replace right, well not so much. I read the post on here about replacing a GFCI and purchased a 20amp "Leviton GFNT2-T Self-Test SmartlockPro Slim GFCI Non-Tamper-Resistant Receptacle" since it was the only one they had that was on the "approved" list. The replacement went fairly simple even though everything on the new GFCI was backwards from the original. When I turned the circuit breaker back on the status light was green on the new GFCI, but there was no power. The directions say the GFCI is shipped tripped and to insure it is tripped, but it doesn't move, the reset button moves but the GFCI doesn't reset. The status light stays green the whole time. Thinking GFCI was bad I replaced it with a new one, but it didn't work either, so I assume I'm overlooking something and put the old one back in and it's working fine. Any guesses as to what I'm doing wrong?

Since this GFCI connects to the Inverter I should probably note that I have upgraded to a Magnum MSH3012RV Pure Hybrid Inverter Charger.

Assuming you have a Magnum, which is what the owner's manual indicates, there are THREE pin style circuit breakers on the Inverter.  You need to check the MAIN panel first.  There is a 30 Amp breaker there.  Then on the Magnum there is an INCOMING 30 Amp pin style.  There are TWO outgoing Pin CB  One feeds the Microwave.  Check to see if you have the clock or it is working.  That verifies that power is coming INTO the Inverter from the Main Panel and this is being PASSED THOUGH to the Microwave circuit.  The OTHER circuit is for the GFCI in the lavatory.  

We do NOT have any 08 Diplomat prints.  The 07 was "really interesting"  The Prints show that the Lavatory GFCI is a 20 Amp.  Please check the old one and verify that it was a 20 Amp.  The Microwave is, per the prints, a 15 Amp.  I am prejudiced for the Eaton Wiring Devices brand...(was Eagle Signal until Cooper bought and then was Cooper Wiring....which was sold to Eaton).  YES, the OEM and the replacements have been changed.  Blame local code inspectors that want to see the GROUND PIN UP.

NOW....on thing to do.  Look at the Inverter.  IF BOTH of the AC OUT Breakers are 20 Amps, then the replacement 20 is what you will need, but IF one, per the print is 15 and the other is 20, then the print shows the 

You really need to verify the INCOMING power to the GFCI with a VOM. My suspicion is that the line and load are reversed.  BUT, if there is NO 120VAC on either line....then the issue is upstream and will require more complex and extensive trouble shooting.  

NOW....it there are THREE cables or Romex in the box, then your 2008 was upgraded to the more conventional wiring diagram....which we can discuss later.  

BUT, you have to HAVE 120 VAC incoming, which will be the LINE........and the LOAD side will be ZERO VOLTS.

Please do that and report back.

38040005 (DIAGRAM, 120V AC).pdf

[fredelkamp]

2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Assuming you have a Magnum, which is what the owner's manual indicates, there are THREE pin style circuit breakers on the Inverter.  You need to check the MAIN panel first.  There is a 30 Amp breaker there.  Then on the Magnum there is an INCOMING 30 Amp pin style.  There are TWO outgoing Pin CB  One feeds the Microwave.  Check to see if you have the clock or it is working.  That verifies that power is coming INTO the Inverter from the Main Panel and this is being PASSED THOUGH to the Microwave circuit.  The OTHER circuit is for the GFCI in the lavatory.

> I have upgraded to a Magnum MSH3012RV Pure Hybrid Inverter Charger. The MAIN panel has a 30 Amp breaker for the inverter. The clock on the microwave is working.

We do NOT have any 08 Diplomat prints.  The 07 was "really interesting"  The Prints show that the Lavatory GFCI is a 20 Amp.  Please check the old one and verify that it was a 20 Amp.  The Microwave is, per the prints, a 15 Amp.  I am prejudiced for the Eaton Wiring Devices brand...(was Eagle Signal until Cooper bought and then was Cooper Wiring....which was sold to Eaton).  YES, the OEM and the replacements have been changed.  Blame local code inspectors that want to see the GROUND PIN UP.

> The original Lavatory GFCI is a 20 Amp

NOW....on thing to do.  Look at the Inverter.  IF BOTH of the AC OUT Breakers are 20 Amps, then the replacement 20 is what you will need, but IF one, per the print is 15 and the other is 20, then the print shows the 

You really need to verify the INCOMING power to the GFCI with a VOM. My suspicion is that the line and load are reversed.  BUT, if there is NO 120VAC on either line....then the issue is upstream and will require more complex and extensive trouble shooting.

> Incoming power to the GFCI is 120 volts

NOW....it there are THREE cables or Romex in the box, then your 2008 was upgraded to the more conventional wiring diagram....which we can discuss later.

> There are three cables in the box. Two connect to the Line terminals (one with 120 volts and one with zero volts) and the third connects to the load (Zero Volts) (To insure I didn't confuse these cables the "load" cables where tagged with bright yellow tape.

BUT, you have to HAVE 120 VAC incoming, which will be the LINE........and the LOAD side will be ZERO VOLTS.

Please do that and report back.

38040005 (DIAGRAM, 120V AC).pdf 104.16 kB · 1 download

Replies imbedded in original text

[MurrayD]

At the risk of beating a dead horse here, the green indicator light on with NO power at the receptacle indicates line load reversal, according to the Leviton patented smart technology. If wired correctly green light indicates power available. Is it possible you have the wrong neutral on the line terminal?

[fredelkamp]

Since the original GFCI only tripped occasionally when I switched on the inverter I have decided it is a back burner item. So I have reinstalled the original GFCI and returned the Leviton GFCI, I think it's just too sensitive for my old system. I will probably order a Hubbell for the next try, but it is really hard to troubleshoot something when it is working 99.9% of the time. The good news is I was able to install a new Old Work Shallow Work Box, as the old one was crumbling. 

Note: The Magnum manual for the MSH3012RV recommends the following GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruption) Outlets:
Cooper VGF15W

Hubbel GF520EMBKA, GFRST15xx and GFRST20xx Series

Leviton 8899-A, N7899, GFNT1 and GFNT2 Series

[Tom Cherry]

45 minutes ago, fredelkamp said:

Since the original GFCI only tripped occasionally when I switched on the inverter I have decided it is a back burner item. So I have reinstalled the original GFCI and returned the Leviton GFCI, I think it's just too sensitive for my old system. I will probably order a Hubbell for the next try, but it is really hard to troubleshoot something when it is working 99.9% of the time. The good news is I was able to install a new Old Work Shallow Work Box, as the old one was crumbling. 

Note: The Magnum manual for the MSH3012RV recommends the following GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruption) Outlets:
Cooper VGF15W

Hubbel GF520EMBKA, GFRST15xx and GFRST20xx Series

Leviton 8899-A, N7899, GFNT1 and GFNT2 Series

Cooper Wiring Devices (a division that I audited many times) was, as was ALL COOPER, sold to Eaton.  Therefore the “correct” brand would be Eaton Wiring Devices.

[fredelkamp]

I'll check them out