2013 Diplomat. No Shore Power. Help appreciated

[Bigdogracing]

Hello-

 

We have a new to us 2013 Monaco Diplomat. We have always use the generator for power since we have had it. We had a 30 amp plug wired at our home to keep at least the basement heater on to keep from freezing etc. Anyway, the coach doesn’t seem to be getting any shore power- the display show no power source when plugged in to 30 amp or reduced further down to 110 which we tried to see if it was our 30 amp extension cord. Neither work. Everything works on generator without issues. There are no breakers on the inverter itself which is a MagnaSine or the transfer switch and upon quick glance, no other breakers or fuses appear to be out.  We did replace the transfer switch and no luck there.  Called dealership and they said it could be the fuses on the CONVERTER- not inverter. Although I cannot find nothing about a converter in the manual either.  Anyone know where that is located on a 2013 Diplomat? They said behind the breaker box but that is above the driver seat and we removed the cover and did not see the box he was describing…. Thanks in advance for any help.
By the way, we did do our best to look at where the 50 amp cord connects to the reel and there is a junction box of sorts- it is very hard to access but the cord feels secure and not loose… ?

Any help would be appreciated.  Thank you!

[cbr046]

When you plug into shore power can you hear the transfer switch relays click in? 

- bob

 

[jacwjames]

Do you have a volt meter and know how to use it safely?

Start at the new outlet you had installed and check for voltage.  If you do then move to the coach.  

Do you know the make/model of the transfer switch?  Check the transfer switch.

[waterskier_1]

2 hours ago, Bigdogracing said:

Hello-

 

We have a new to us 2013 Monaco Diplomat. We have always use the generator for power since we have had it. We had a 30 amp plug wired at our home to keep at least the basement heater on to keep from freezing etc. Anyway, the coach doesn’t seem to be getting any shore power- the display show no power source when plugged in to 30 amp or reduced further down to 110 which we tried to see if it was our 30 amp extension cord. Neither work. Everything works on generator without issues. There are no breakers on the inverter itself which is a MagnaSine or the transfer switch and upon quick glance, no other breakers or fuses appear to be out.  We did replace the transfer switch and no luck there.  Called dealership and they said it could be the fuses on the CONVERTER- not inverter. Although I cannot find nothing about a converter in the manual either.  Anyone know where that is located on a 2013 Diplomat? They said behind the breaker box but that is above the driver seat and we removed the cover and did not see the box he was describing…. Thanks in advance for any help.
By the way, we did do our best to look at where the 50 amp cord connects to the reel and there is a junction box of sorts- it is very hard to access but the cord feels secure and not loose… ?

Any help would be appreciated.  Thank you!

What voltage is the 30 amp plug you had wired to your home?  I ask  because you post "the display show no power source when plugged in to 30 amp or reduced further down to 110 which we tried to see if it was our 30 amp extension cord."  The 30 Amp should also be 110 Volts.  Did someone mistakenly add a 30 Amp 220 Volt (like used for electric dryers)?  If so, that is a problem.  If you were meaning reduced down to a 15 or 20 Amp plug, then that is fine.

I would first start by finding someone with a voltmeter that has experience working around 110 volts.  Have him start at the new pedestal outlet you had wired and confirm that you have 110 volts.  Then move to the end of the power cord, if possible, and measure the voltage there.  Many of these problems are caused by a bad plug on the end of the power cable, or bad extension cables, plugs, and outlets.  The next stop would be the transfer switch.  Do you have 110 volts there?  You won't have 220, since you only have a 30 amp circuit installed, but you should still have 110 volts between each hot leg and neutral.  If good there, check the output of the transfer switch.  Is the power getting through the transfer switch?  If not, something is wrong with the transfer switch or the wiring. From the output of the transfer switch to the main breaker panel and beyond are not suspect, because all that is common to the generator which you claim works.

Post back your results and we can assist further.

  -Rick N.

[96 EVO]

Cord reel is a fairly high failure point.

Especially if someone has been extending or retracting it while juice is flowing thru it!

[Dr4Film]

Your "converter" is your MagaSine InverterCharger. It should have two pin-style circuit breakers which if tripped, they need to be pushed back in.

Hopefully you kept the old transfer switch since that had not failed.

As others have suggested, get a DVOM meter and start at your 30 amp wall outlet to verify correct power conditions at each transition point. Eventually you will find where you have no power. Then you have isolated the source of your problem.

[Tom Cherry]

11 hours ago, Bigdogracing said:

Hello-

 

We have a new to us 2013 Monaco Diplomat. We have always use the generator for power since we have had it. We had a 30 amp plug wired at our home to keep at least the basement heater on to keep from freezing etc. Anyway, the coach doesn’t seem to be getting any shore power- the display show no power source when plugged in to 30 amp or reduced further down to 110 which we tried to see if it was our 30 amp extension cord. Neither work. Everything works on generator without issues. There are no breakers on the inverter itself which is a MagnaSine or the transfer switch and upon quick glance, no other breakers or fuses appear to be out.  We did replace the transfer switch and no luck there.  Called dealership and they said it could be the fuses on the CONVERTER- not inverter. Although I cannot find nothing about a converter in the manual either.  Anyone know where that is located on a 2013 Diplomat? They said behind the breaker box but that is above the driver seat and we removed the cover and did not see the box he was describing…. Thanks in advance for any help.
By the way, we did do our best to look at where the 50 amp cord connects to the reel and there is a junction box of sorts- it is very hard to access but the cord feels secure and not loose… ?

Any help would be appreciated.  Thank you!

Dealership don’t know squat.  You have a Magnum PSW Inverter/charger.  The circuit for the shore is as follows.  Shore cord goes to the reel.  Out of the reel is a Junction Box.  From there, the #6 (3 stranded conductors & a Ground…solid or stranded?) goes directly to the ATS.  The ATS is a Normally Closed circuit….so, the AC will be HOT.  NOW, since you didn’t specify the Brand/Model…that is typical.  So, when you turn on a pedestal breaker, there is usually NO CLUNK or CLiCK.  The click is when the genny starts and is delivering power.

NOW the ATS sends power DIR3C5LY to the main panel.  There is a dual Pole 50A breaker.  The Inverter is fed from a 30 A breaker.  OK….it gets TRICKY.

The 30A breaker is HOW you get Internal power to the outlets and microwave and refrigerator.  The 30 A power goes INTO the Inverter.  There is an ATS on the control board.  If the house batteries are “dead” ….as in, will not charge or does not read at least 11.6 vdc, then the Magnum will NOT PASS THROUGH the 120 VAC power.

There are 3 Pin Style Circuit Breakers on the Magnum (despite what the idiot dealer says). There is a 30 Amp INPUT Breaker….the power from the main 30 amp breaker in the panel goes directly to the Pin CB.  Then to the ATS.  If the Magnum has a “decent” set of House Batteries, then the internal ATS will pass through the power.  It is divided into TWO circuits.  They go THROUGH the two 20 A pin CB.  One goes to the Microwave…. The other to the GFCI receptacle and on to the outlets and refrigerator.

The MOST common faikure is the 30A to 50A adapter or dogbone.  Many of us carry 2….as they will fail at the most inopportune time.  Read, carefully, Section 8 of the manual.  It is pretty clear.  NOW…you do NOT, per the manual, have an Intellitec Energy Management System or a “Load Controller” or shedding device.

The Surge Guard ATS was pretty robust….so, don’t know why it was replaced.  IF you always pulled out the power cord to full length, you MAY have arced the contacts.  The typical “hope this works” is to reel it in….pull it out….several times and that will sometimes polish the contact rings.  Pull it out randomly….never to full and run it there.

TRY replacing the dog-bone.   You SHOULD see power on the Magnum’s remote….if NOT, charge the House Batteries and see if that works.  Push in rather assertively each of the three Pin CB on the Magnum….past that, get someone to measure voltages or get a VOM and watch YouTube and learn how to use it.

[cbr046]

11 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

NOW, since you didn’t specify the Brand/Model…that is typical.  So, when you turn on a pedestal breaker, there is usually NO CLUNK or CLiCK.  The click is when the genny starts and is delivering power.

Mine does clunk when I plug into AC power, I promise!  (10 yr older Endeavor / Diplomat w basic Surge Guard 40100 Basic Automatic Transfer Switch and no shore reel - shore power connects directly to ATS at point of entry, Xantrex 458 inverter on other side of coach.)

Tom, you have an amazing memory.  Such detail!

That was @Bigdogracing's one and only post above.  Hopefully he checks this thread sometime soon and can update us (Jeopardy music plays) . . . .

- bob

Edited December 17, 2023 by cbr046

[Bigdogracing]

21 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

What voltage is the 30 amp plug you had wired to your home?  I ask  because you post "the display show no power source when plugged in to 30 amp or reduced further down to 110 which we tried to see if it was our 30 amp extension cord."  The 30 Amp should also be 110 Volts.  Did someone mistakenly add a 30 Amp 220 Volt (like used for electric dryers)?  If so, that is a problem.  If you were meaning reduced down to a 15 or 20 Amp plug, then that is fine.

I would first start by finding someone with a voltmeter that has experience working around 110 volts.  Have him start at the new pedestal outlet you had wired and confirm that you have 110 volts.  Then move to the end of the power cord, if possible, and measure the voltage there.  Many of these problems are caused by a bad plug on the end of the power cable, or bad extension cables, plugs, and outlets.  The next stop would be the transfer switch.  Do you have 110 volts there?  You won't have 220, since you only have a 30 amp circuit installed, but you should still have 110 volts between each hot leg and neutral.  If good there, check the output of the transfer switch.  Is the power getting through the transfer switch?  If not, something is wrong with the transfer switch or the wiring. From the output of the transfer switch to the main breaker panel and beyond are not suspect, because all that is common to the generator which you claim works.

Post back your results and we can assist further.

  -Rick N.

I think you nailed it- our home is older and the Volts measure 220V coming from the new plug.  Therefore we will not be using that plug any longer! Thank you

17 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Your "converter" is your MagaSine InverterCharger. It should have two pin-style circuit breakers which if tripped, they need to be pushed back in.

Hopefully you kept the old transfer switch since that had not failed.

As others have suggested, get a DVOM meter and start at your 30 amp wall outlet to verify correct power conditions at each transition point. Eventually you will find where you have no power. Then you have isolated the source of your problem.

Yes we now have a backup transfer switch!  I checked the inverter and the breaker (only one) is that strange?  was not tripped.

11 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Dealership don’t know squat.  You have a Magnum PSW Inverter/charger.  The circuit for the shore is as follows.  Shore cord goes to the reel.  Out of the reel is a Junction Box.  From there, the #6 (3 stranded conductors & a Ground…solid or stranded?) goes directly to the ATS.  The ATS is a Normally Closed circuit….so, the AC will be HOT.  NOW, since you didn’t specify the Brand/Model…that is typical.  So, when you turn on a pedestal breaker, there is usually NO CLUNK or CLiCK.  The click is when the genny starts and is delivering power.

NOW the ATS sends power DIR3C5LY to the main panel.  There is a dual Pole 50A breaker.  The Inverter is fed from a 30 A breaker.  OK….it gets TRICKY.

The 30A breaker is HOW you get Internal power to the outlets and microwave and refrigerator.  The 30 A power goes INTO the Inverter.  There is an ATS on the control board.  If the house batteries are “dead” ….as in, will not charge or does not read at least 11.6 vdc, then the Magnum will NOT PASS THROUGH the 120 VAC power.

There are 3 Pin Style Circuit Breakers on the Magnum (despite what the idiot dealer says). There is a 30 Amp INPUT Breaker….the power from the main 30 amp breaker in the panel goes directly to the Pin CB.  Then to the ATS.  If the Magnum has a “decent” set of House Batteries, then the internal ATS will pass through the power.  It is divided into TWO circuits.  They go THROUGH the two 20 A pin CB.  One goes to the Microwave…. The other to the GFCI receptacle and on to the outlets and refrigerator.

The MOST common faikure is the 30A to 50A adapter or dogbone.  Many of us carry 2….as they will fail at the most inopportune time.  Read, carefully, Section 8 of the manual.  It is pretty clear.  NOW…you do NOT, per the manual, have an Intellitec Energy Management System or a “Load Controller” or shedding device.

The Surge Guard ATS was pretty robust….so, don’t know why it was replaced.  IF you always pulled out the power cord to full length, you MAY have arced the contacts.  The typical “hope this works” is to reel it in….pull it out….several times and that will sometimes polish the contact rings.  Pull it out randomly….never to full and run it there.

TRY replacing the dog-bone.   You SHOULD see power on the Magnum’s remote….if NOT, charge the House Batteries and see if that works.  Push in rather assertively each of the three Pin CB on the Magnum….past that, get someone to measure voltages or get a VOM and watch YouTube and learn how to use it.

You are are so smart nd helpful! Well turns out, aside from our shore plug being wrong, we narrowed it down to the 50 to 30 amp reducer being bad.  Yep, that was all it was, replaced that and viola- all is well!  Crazy but so glad that is all it was.  Thanks again to you all that responded with suggestions.

[96 EVO]

Yep, your lucky that 50-30A reducer was bad! That 240V could have destroyed several electric devices 😉! 

Edited December 17, 2023 by 96 EVO

[Dr4Film]

Yes, you are VERY lucky indeed, that you had a defective 30 amp to 50 amp dog-bone adapter otherwise you would be looking at severe damage to multiple electrical devices and thousands of dollars worth of damage.

If you want to use that outlet, than either you or a qualified electrician rewire it to a 4 wire 240 VAC 14-50P 4 prong outlet that will fit your 50 amp RV power cord. The 4 wires need to be the following: 1-ground (G), 1-neutral (W), 1-50 amp Load- (Red), 1-50 amp Load (Black). All need to be 6 gauge.

But more importantly, purchase a Progressive Industries EMS 50 amp unit, either the hardwired version, EMS-HW-50C or the portable version, EMS-PT50X. Those devices will NOT let any defective or errant power conditions into your coach when doing something stupid. You definitely dodged an expansive bullet.

 

[Florida Hog Man]

Similar problem, took 2 months. finally wired shore directly to xfer switch and worked.

next took cord reel apart, sanded contacts (pitted) reassembled and worked again

Was on previous coach, 2006 HR Endeavor