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Where do you buy maintenance parts?


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Hi,  I'm getting ready to do annual maintenance on the engine, genset and aqua hot.  I'm just curious where you buy the filters/fluids from?  Is there one place that has decent prices and shipping or do you buy at a local parts store? 

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7 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

I Google search the Internet for the best deals. Then compare.

Last time I purchased Fleetguard fuel and oil filters from Amazon.

Only caveat is ALLISON. We were told at a Gathering that there was a host of knock off or perfect imitations for the Allison filters for our trannies.  But like Richard, i pick-and choose between Filter Barn and Amazon. I’d not risk it and purchase locally from an authorized Allison service center.  The only Transynd equivalent I trust is the Mobil Delvac.  Mobil pays the “tow” and has the official “Allison Certification ”…not just the generic 295 spec.

I am picky and buy only the Valvoline Blue from Tractor Supply.  Great prices.  Walmart may be competitive in do d areas….but I only use that oil…Shell Rotella is probably a good substitute…

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11 minutes ago, Just Jim said:

Thanks Richard,  There are a couple I can't find on Amazon... so will have to shop around for them at least.  That is what made me curious what everyone else does.

Some filters I do not purchase but rather let the people doing that particular service provide the filters such as transmission service. or Aqua-Hot service.

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45 minutes ago, Steve P said:

Transyd?  Isn't that like a 100,000+ miles service item?  🤔 

NOPE…Read (& weep) the chart..

36 Months….  Filter and that also requires around (memory) 10 QUARTS of Transynd 295.  Then, every 48 Months….complete filter and Oil change 19 Quarts.  This is a TIME FUNCTION.  How many do that?  All over the map.

I opted for the 48 Month service in 2013 (4 years)…..had to do that for Extended warranty to be in effect.  That was about 25 - 30 K. Then, in 2018, did it again around 57K.

Some push longer….others stick with the Allison schedule.

Welcome to the world of MHing…. Your most important tools for maintenance are CELL PHONE & CREDIT CARD…. LOL!

IMG_1146.png

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Hey Tom... looking at that chart it looks like it says change the fluid every 48 months, but the filter every 36 months.  Unless you are reusing the fluid when you change the filters that seems pretty illogical.  Even then you have to change the fluid after just 12 more months.  Not sure why they would even have a fluid change recommendation with a different time schedule for the filters???  What am I missing here?

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25 minutes ago, Just Jim said:

Hey Tom... looking at that chart it looks like it says change the fluid every 48 months, but the filter every 36 months.  Unless you are reusing the fluid when you change the filters that seems pretty illogical.  Even then you have to change the fluid after just 12 more months.  Not sure why they would even have a fluid change recommendation with a different time schedule for the filters???  What am I missing here?

It's because changing the filters only drains a small portion of the fluid, the pan is not removed unlike with most automotive trannys.

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I tend to stay away from Amazon or especially eBay for filters. You never know the origin or storage conditions. They could be years old and been stored in less than perfect conditions.  I tend to go to a jobber where the freshness of the filter is not in question.  Know. A neighbor who put a filter on a brand new rebuild tractor engine and it was wrecked in 300 hours. The filter element had disintegrated.

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Was a really nice day today so I got out and did a little more looking and inspection of my coach.  I found a filter that indicates its a hydraulic filter with part number P550388.  I have never replaced a hydraulic filter.  Anyone have some basic instructions or things to look out for?  Second question... since I only had the coach raised with the leveling jacks and no supports I did not spend more than a minute under there but could not locate the air dryer.  Anyone know where that is located on a 03 Executive?  3rd question, I also have not located the coolant filter... I assume it is somewhere on the engine?   Which leads to the final question (at least for now), the coach has some access panels inside the coach on the floor of the closet.  They have what looks like a push button and a ring like handle.  I've gotten the button pushed, but have not gotten them to open.  Is there a "trick" to it like twisting or turning the ring or are they just stuck because they have not been opened in forever?  If I could get them open I think I could find the coolant filter.  Thanks in advance for any help.  Jim

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Easy way to locate air dryer if you do not know what it looks like. Let the coach build air. When it gets to the high end of pressure gauge the air dryer will vent air to the ground. You should be able to hear the “swoosh” when the air dryer /regulator dumps air. Usually it will blow to the ground and blow a spot clear in the is gravel,grass,dust etc. sometimes if moisture is also being vented the wet spot on the floor will be evident.

please don’t get under your rig with out dead blocking it. Not even one time. If the air system fails you willbe crushed or pinched in the suspension. I know a guy that saw a 26 year old man killed his first day on the job in this manner. I heavy jack stand mine and then back it up with 8x8 dead blocks. And let the load down on the stands before I go under. Sometime I run the wheels up on short planks to gain some added clearance but still dead block.

Hopefully someone else has answers to your other questions. I know where and how mine works . Someone else no doubt is more familiar with you specifics. Some like mine have coolant filters some do not. Be safe.

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Thanks Ivan, I found the oil filter, but did not look much further than to just take a quick picture of the part number so I could order one.  So, the coolant filter is accessible from underneath and I assume the coolant cut off is as well.   

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7 minutes ago, Just Jim said:

Thanks Ivan, I found the oil filter, but did not look much further than to just take a quick picture of the part number so I could order one.  So, the coolant filter is accessible from underneath and I assume the coolant cut off is as well.   

Yeah, when I said rear of the filter, I automatically meant rear of the engine... The filter number should depend on type of coolant and coolant test if applicable.

As far as the hydraulic filter, I used Wix version of the same and had to freeze the gasket to make it fit. Hopefully your filter is higher than the reservoir if you are not replacing the fluid at the same time.

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4 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Yeah, when I said rear of the filter, I automatically meant rear of the engine... The filter number should depend on type of coolant and coolant test if applicable.

As far as the hydraulic filter, I used Wix version of the same and had to freeze the gasket to make it fit. Hopefully your filter is higher than the reservoir if you are not replacing the fluid at the same time.

No such luck on the filter being higher than the reservoir... it is significantly lower.  So, seems like I'm changing the hydraulic fluid as well as the filter?  I've never done that before.  I guess I'll do a search of the YouTube to see if I can find any tutorials.

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Yes, I have a air driven fluid pump that I use on some of my other vehicles.  I have not found much online info... is there any concern for air in the lines, etc.  Just drain the tank and remove/replace the filter?

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You will get some air no matter what, the fans will work it out and turning the wheel few times will get it out of the steering lines and box. May get some foam in the tank afterwards so check the level after a while.

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3 hours ago, Ivan K said:

... The filter number should depend on type of coolant and coolant test if applicable...

Exactly. Do not just replace the coolant filter with the same number.  If you don't know what coolant is in it, send a sample to get tested, like CAT SOS or similar, cheaper than changing the coolant which you probably don't need.  Might not need to change the filter either, but if you're unsure, then change it based on the test results and cut the old one open to confirm or contradict the test results for dirt and rust inside the filter. 

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Thanks Benjamin... this is a new to me 20 year old coach with very little knowledge of prior service work.  I'm basically wanting to establish a baseline for the maintenance going forward.  I will test the coolant, but that is one of the filters I think gets overlooked fairly often... kind of like the air brakes filter. 

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The coolant filter on some engines may be only a "dummy" without and SCA added depending on what type of coolant is currently in the engine.

The coolant filter on my previous Windsor 350 ISC had the slow dissolving SCA additive.

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Since you mentioned you are looking for the air dryer location, on our 05 Dynasty it’s on the driver’s side of the transmission mounted up high, but it is not actually mounted to the transmission. If you haven’t already serviced it, I recommend using a OEM spin on filter ( should be around 90 bucks) and it’s not a bad idea to replace the purge valve on the bottom of the dryer housing, most people don’t ever replace the purge valve, with 20 years of service it is most likely due, not very expensive either! 
 The only comment I have to add in regards to filters is, be cautious of online counterfeit filters, there’s plenty of them out there! JMO.

 Here’s a link to info regarding the air dryer, confirm your model number.

https://www.wabco-customercentre.com/catalog/docs/mm34_web.pdf

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So... this may be straying off topic a little, but still is in regard to doing maintenance.  I had seen some posts regarding building wood ramps in order to have more area under the coach.  If I go that route, should I build ramps that support the tag axle?  I also assume I would need to have the ramp under both of the duel rear tires?  That is going to be a rather large heavy, wooden structure!!!  So, if the answer to both of those is yes... then perhaps putting a metal or wood post in between the frame where the air bags are located might be an option?  I've also seen some info on jacking up the rear and putting bracing under the area where the trailer hitch is located, but not on the hitch itself.  Thoughts?   Last question... I have used the air bags and the hydraulic level system to raise the coach in order to see if braces in the frame could be accomplished and trying to measure the distance that a brace would need to be.  I started the coach and the ABS light is on... and when I push the brake pedal the Tag ABS light comes on then goes out when I release the brake.  I have not driven it.  I'm just curious if raising the coach up could cause some harm to the ABS or does it just need to be driven?  Thanks as always.

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I use short planks under the duals and the tag . I don’t block the trailer hitch because it has a limited tongue weight capacity. I block the frame concrete you described.I have not blocked between frame as some do.  I am no abs expert but I doubt you do any harm . The abs is a tone ring/sensor that compares wheel speeds against one another looking for slippage. It is more less internal to the wheel/axle and moves with it.  I also get the abs light on start up,on press and release of brake it goes out. Manual says that is normal. Maybe yours is similar.be safe

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