Ivan K Posted February 17 Share Posted February 17 In my opinion, the ABS light while stationary would have to do with electrical parts, cables, not a dislocated sensor. Maybe a modulator valve but only way to know for sure is to read the codes. May not be a problem at all. As for blocking the body, I use 11" blocks and additional jack stands under the rear vertical tubes between drive and tag wheels. Ramps would certainly give me more space but I still fit under it, unless the tires blow out and then the stands come into play... even less of a chance in the front with run flats inserts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbr046 Posted February 17 Share Posted February 17 I put short ramps under each wheel - maybe 2 ft x 2x10, then a shorter and a shorter 2x10 then drive onto the ramps 2" at a time. At the end of the ramps I put large blocks to avoid running off the end of the ramp 😮 . These abbreviated ramps aren't overly heavy. And yes, you need to support both tandem wheels. I don't have a tag so can't comment on the extra axle. My purpose is to level the coach on unlevel concrete, so each wheel has a different ramp "prescription". If I need to work on the coach I'll air up the suspension then put LARGE 8x8 blocks under the retracted jacks, shimmed to near zero space. If anything happens to the bags the coach will only drop as far as the blocks under the jacks. At this point I'm comfortable extending the jacks a bit without fear of being crushed to death. If I need to remove a wheel I'll extend the jacks to unweight the axle with wheels still on the ground, then use a floor or bottle jack to get the wheel off the ground. The floor jack only needs to lift a few hundred pounds on the side being serviced, not the full weight of the axle. This way you can "fine tune" and adjust the lifted wheel. Of course this is what *I* do . . . . - bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted February 17 Share Posted February 17 I had to work on my air system in 2021 and made a set of 6 ramps using 2X10" lumber. Cut pieces 48, 42, 36, 30", stacked and screwed them together and added a stop block for the ones for the rear tires. This gave me 6" more clearance, which allowed me to be able to crawl under the coach front to back and while working around the air tanks and axles I was able to sit up. When I'm done I just stack them up against the back wall in the garage. Last year I found a crack on the rear axle support. To give enough room to work under it safely I drove up on the ramps and then used blocks under the jacks that were still retracted. I got within ~1/2" of the jack and then just let the air out and let it settle onto the blocks. Worked great, I used a small grinder to clean and prep the crack and my neighbor brought over his welder and welded it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetjockey Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 (edited) I need to correct this after rereading manual . The. Abs light should go out in a few seconds after start up. The ats light goes out after brake applied. If the abs light remains on after a few seconds my manual says ecm has recorded the problem and can be read with diagnostics. Brakes still will work just fine but possibly no abs function. This is on my unit. Don’t know if others are similar. Glad to see so many posts on safely blocking. Edited February 18 by Jetjockey Addit 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Jim Posted February 24 Author Share Posted February 24 So, the weather was nice today, so I got started on my maintenance and got about 25% of it done. As I was making my plan for tomorrow, I did a quick look at the transmission. The two round filters and the drain plug are pretty obvious, however how do you put the fluid back in???? I don't see a dipstick or a filler neck anywhere. I am hoping that this is not one that you have to pump the fluid into... Anyone with knowledge of the Cummins 500 ISM and Allison 4000 trans let me know how this is done please. Thanks everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chargerman Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 You have to pull the hatch in the bedroom to gain access to the transmission dipstick/ fill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetjockey Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 (edited) My 3000 fills thru rear doors engine compartment.I can check it electronically thru the shifting cluster. However Allison says to first check initial level using dipstick on front of transmission.it is under the bedroom acces door. Maybe your mh4000 is similar.. also check the torque specs for filter covers. Commonly people have overtorqued stripping the threads out of the aluminum transmission case. Big mess to repair. Also as you are probably aware to inspect drain plug magnet end for metal. Dragging atf thru coach is not pleasant. pumps are nice Edited February 24 by Jetjockey Addit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Jim Posted February 25 Author Share Posted February 25 Thanks Jet, I'll try and get those hatches open tomorrow. I've tried to open them in the past just out of curiosity, so didn't force them. They really seem to be stuck or I'm not releasing them properly. Going to look from inside the engine bay and see if I can figure out how they work, but if anyone has any info on opening them I would greatly appreciate it. I do have a pump that I was going to use. I hope I can feed it out the back as I don't want to string 10 gallons of fluid through the coach. I can't imagine that is going to go without at least a little spill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chargerman Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 The seals for the hatch can stick pretty strong. Once the locks are open pry on the hatch a bit. It will pop open Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joefromperry Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 9 hours ago, Just Jim said: Thanks Jet, I'll try and get those hatches open tomorrow. I've tried to open them in the past just out of curiosity, so didn't force them. They really seem to be stuck or I'm not releasing them properly. Going to look from inside the engine bay and see if I can figure out how they work, but if anyone has any info on opening them I would greatly appreciate it. I do have a pump that I was going to use. I hope I can feed it out the back as I don't want to string 10 gallons of fluid through the coach. I can't imagine that is going to go without at least a little spill. On my 2003 Signature the access floor panel by the bed fits pretty snugly to keep heat / air from the inside. Once you release all four latches, give each some pretty good tugs and. it should come free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 That's odd they didn't give you a trans filler tube in the engine compartment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 Our ISM/4060 combo also only has an actual dipstick in a vertical pipe on driver side of the tranny but easily accessible under the bed and a decent diameter for good size strainer. Not a drop spilled with 8.5 gal refill for a deep pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Jim Posted February 25 Author Share Posted February 25 So, I've tried to open this hatch, but it is not budging. Other than popping the little latch up, anything else other than brute force needed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 (edited) Yes, one big a$$ crow bar. Start prying in various places. Eventually it will pop loose. Edited February 25 by Dr4Film Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bergamo Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 Can you get to it from the bottom? A heavy dowel or 2x4 pushing upward? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Jim Posted February 25 Author Share Posted February 25 Thanks guys, I got it open and found the transmission dipstick. I never would have used that much force on that hatch without some reassurance from you all!!! d*** thing took three wood chisels hammered around the edges for it to finally open. Not sure why they even put latches on there. LOL Hopefully, next week I can get the hydraulic fluid and transmission fluid changed out. Sure wears on a old fat man to climb under and around that thing but I enjoy doing it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetjockey Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 Allison changed my oil and filters .although there is a procedure to check fluid level on shift display. The tech recommended a visual dipstick level check after refilling transynd. After that he was comfortable with the electronic check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 Unfortunately, some engines come without transmission dip sticks. Only a cap covers the filler tube. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 46 minutes ago, Just Jim said: Sure wears on a old fat man to climb under and around that thing but I enjoy doing it. Yep! I don't mind working under the engine / tranny! It's when I have to 'shimmy' under the axles 😬! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Jim Posted February 26 Author Share Posted February 26 One thing I did find when I was under the coach today is a leak at the differential. I was just doing a quick look around and noticed it. Anyone have any idea how big a job it is to replace a seal? I'll check the fluid level before I move the coach again but curious if this is a "big" repair or not. 90 weight oil from what I recall off the top of my head? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 1 minute ago, Just Jim said: One thing I did find when I was under the coach today is a leak at the differential. I was just doing a quick look around and noticed it. Anyone have any idea how big a job it is to replace a seal? I'll check the fluid level before I move the coach again but curious if this is a "big" repair or not. 90 weight oil from what I recall off the top of my head? Did you take a picture of where it's leaking? Could be moderate, to major job, depending where the leak is! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Jim Posted February 26 Author Share Posted February 26 I did not take a picture at that time. Did not have my phone with me. It appeared to be leaking around where the drive shaft connected. I'll get pictures and take a better look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 Yeah, that's a bad one. Hopefully not a big leak! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 On the axle there should be a metal tag that has the info required to be able to find a manual on the axle and parts list. I looked at a parts drawing for the axle I believe is in my coach. It looks like the output seal can be replaced by removing the yoke. Not saying it will be easy but doable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chargerman Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 Most yoke seals can be removed pretty easily by using a slide hammer with a small hook on the end. Once the yoke is removed you place the hook behind the seal and use the slide to pull it out. Work your way around the seal when doing this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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