flynnwalter Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 Hey to Monacoers Reputable local shop cannot help. Read manual and it did not help either. Anyone know how to re-set the warning light on a 2009 Cayman 38 SBD? Already turned off the engine battery switch and waited an hour, turned it back on and started the engine. All idiot lights came on and turned off except the warning light. warning light lights when service is overdue according to my manual. Thanks in advance, Frank Walter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 Have you checked for fault codes??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Hutto Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 You really need to get someone to connect Cummins Insite to your ECM and find the cause of the warning light. Could be as simple as low coolant; could be much more serious. In any event to proceed without knowing what’s causing the light could potentially destroy your engine. (or Bluefire or a Scan Gauge, something that can read the codes and tell you what the issue is) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradHend Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 Hoooly. Hopefully nothing serious. Need to get those codes. Good luck and keep us posted. Are you able to get the codes with the flashing dash lights? I’m able to get the sequence flash codes on my ‘05 Cayman, so surely you will be able to as well. Procedure is in the manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbr046 Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 My Warning Light comes & goes. I just got it back from service (TRW steering gear installed). They checked for codes and got multiples of "hi oil pressure" code. Hmmm . . . bad sensor? My manual says Warning Light is for "Out of range condition exists within the engine protection circuits. Stop coach, check all fluid levels.". I first got the light when my hyd / power steering fluid was low. It's not low . . . . coolant level is ok, too. Trans fluid checked by keypad (ok). Like flynwalter I'm not sure where to turn. - bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 Last Oct heading west I started getting an intermittent warning light that got progressively worse and at one point the engine would derate. Check my Silverleaf diagnostics and it showed a 94-2 code which had to do with the fuel pressure sensor. Got the troubleshooting info from Quickserve and followed the steps which included removing the pressure sensor from the CAPS pump. Did this while parked in a Walmart parking lot somewhere in Kansas. Pulled the sensor, checked the wiring harness and cleaned the sensor put all back together and all good the rest of the trip. I had called a couple truck shops to try and get a new sensor but none were available. But the sensor part number was superceded to a new PN which also included a support to take weight off sensor wiring harness. I suspect me taking the sensor out and disconnecting and then reconnecting reseated the wiring harness. Long story short>>> you need the fault codes to have any chance at fixing the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 Do you have a scangauge or similar to watch for the high oil pressure reading that ECM is reporting? It could be on cold start or maybe it is a bad sensor but I would want to know for sure that I don't have some sort of blockage because comparing the Monaco dash gauge to ECM reading may not be meaningful when the senders are in different locations on the motor, as they are on ours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 Also have the warning light. Scanner connected to the multi-pin port by the steering column shows a "low coolant or sensor" issue. You will need your results before troubleshooting because in all likelihood, your wiring diagram will show multiple circuits connected to the warning light. I replaced my coolant sensor to no avail, and now believe I may have a short where the wiring passes underneath a steel bracket that serves as a support for the coolant tank, a filter, and numerous other components, making disassembly a time consuming task that I am planning to do before the heat of summer sets in. I have no trips planned until then even though there are backup gauges for engine temperature that would provide sufficient piece of mind. Your issue could be similar, or of much more potential impact... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flynnwalter Posted March 13 Author Share Posted March 13 Hey Fellas! First, thanks for the suggestions and so quick, too! There are fault codes for the turbo. But got conflicting answers from the trucking company shop. And it took more than a week and $800 for the info. Remain somewhat doubtful as power is still fine. Codes number more than a hundred. Got a neighbor who is retired mechanic. He is gonna look at the turbo and check the capacitor? on it to see if it is worn or free. The Stop Engine light used to come on and accounts for the hundred plus codes, but does not come on now after service. Just the warning light. Years back the old Monaco service in Wildwood decided it was low coolant and it seemed to go away after adding a tiny bit of fuel. Might also replace the coolant sensor as this issue mostly came about after replacing the old plastic coolant tank with an aluminum one. Thanks again and I will keep you all posted on how this plays out. Frank Walter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 You should be able to bypass (or trick) the coolant sensor into thinking there is coolant there to eliminate that as the cause. In my case the sensor uses the coolant as a grounding mechanism, one wire sensor. So I could just simply add a ground to the wire from the sensor and it would run the light off. Do you know the codes you are getting for the Turbo. If you have the codes you can get information from Cummins specific to your engine for troubleshooting. Either way continue running with a warning light on isn't the optimal thing to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 2 hours ago, jacwjames said: You should be able to bypass (or trick) the coolant sensor into thinking there is coolant there to eliminate that as the cause. In my case the sensor uses the coolant as a grounding mechanism, one wire sensor. So I could just simply add a ground to the wire from the sensor and it would run the light off. Do you know the codes you are getting for the Turbo. If you have the codes you can get information from Cummins specific to your engine for troubleshooting. Either way continue running with a warning light on isn't the optimal thing to do. Don't want to hijack the thread, but my coolant sensor has a 3 prong plug. I'm not sure how many wires are actually connected. This continues to baffle me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 30 minutes ago, Steve P said: Don't want to hijack the thread, but my coolant sensor has a 3 prong plug. I'm not sure how many wires are actually connected. This continues to baffle me... My rig uses a Kysor Low Coolant alarm system. So only one wire. You should check you wiring diagram, it may be different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 2 hours ago, jacwjames said: My rig uses a Kysor Low Coolant alarm system. So only one wire. You should check you wiring diagram, it may be different. Wiring diagrams for the 2008 Knight are sort of a guess between 2007 and 2009 and similar Monaco & Holiday Rambler models. The one I've looked at shows only one wire. I didn't see a fuse in the diagram. If I confirm the short I think I have, I'll bypass it with replacement wires. On my list of to-do's... wish me good hunting (luck is a lie we tell ourselves to justify false bravado and foolhardiness). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flynnwalter Posted March 14 Author Share Posted March 14 Thanks to all of you guys. We are going to sell our beloved coach (original owners) due to health problems. We really, really don't want to pay $11k to replace the turbo, but see no option, other than to shop around...Was hoping my neighbor could determine something from looking at turbo, but it is all electric and little obvious evidence of failure, just a little soot on the underside of bed cover access hatch in the area above the turbo. Stop Engine light does not come on, but Warning light does. Back many years when a got my second sports car, I whined about the price of maintenance and a buddy told me "if you wanna drive like a sport, ya gotta pay like a sport" Easy to say when its not your money. guess I am not such a great sport? Anyway, this group is great! Frank Walter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 If you have soot, you likely have exhaust leak, manifold or turbo flanges. Worst case a crack in either. No way should it cost 11k. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradHend Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 (edited) Yup. I’d be checking for a leak if you have soot visible. Manifold, flanges and fittings, even all the CAC plumbing. Check it all. If you say it’s only visible on the access cover, I’d be paying most attention to the manifold and EGR plumbing. I spent a small fortune on that side of my rig after a failure in the East Coast of Canada. Wasn’t pretty, or cheap. Edited March 14 by BradHend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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