Best replacement water pump?

[Redg58]

2008 Monaco Dynasty43’

need to replace my water pump, currently looking a Remco Aquajet 55 ARV w/inline fuse. But I have an accumulator tank and researching this pump it doesn’t appear to be a good fit. This pump is not a variable speed, needs to be full on and not have an accumulator.  What’s everyone using as a replacement? Are you removing the tank?

thanks for any and all responses!

[Tom Cherry]

Been a fan of them since day one when they were AquaTech.  Remember to buy the BACKFLOW PART.  @Scotty Hutto wrote about this.  Many RV manufacturers are plumbing in a hard BF or check valve.  That is reason it is no longer included.  
 

As to accumulator….my “gist” of all the comments…. AquaTech was adamant.  Do not use.  Many have used them.  Personal choice.  Does it make a difference? Not in mine.  Wotks great.  If I were a fan of accumulators, I would try it….and plug off the connection to my accumulator.  Most have found that age gets to accumulators.  Those of us always on a well know that they go bad and the diaphragm gets pinhole leaks and you have to “re-air”.  An accumulator is the same as a “well tank”.  AquaTech said a faulty or leaking accumulator sort of drove the pressure regulator chip or board “crazy”.  It would cycle on, sometimes at night and folks complain.  Not the pump’s fault….it just turned on when system pressure dropped.  The RV55 has avariable speed regulator so it starts to slow doen the pump or “growls” at the end. A faulty accumulator exacerbates that.

But again….your call.  I would guess a majority , if not a large portion don’t have or eliminated their accumulator.

NO KNOCKING folks that feel they improve system….we each have our own criteria…

Folks will respond….highly discussed topic every time it comes up.

 

[jacwjames]

When I bought my 2002 Windsor the previous owner had already replaced the water pump and removed the accumulator tank.  The pump was the Aquajet 55.  This pump failed in 2011 and I replaced it with the Aquajet 55 series.  Fast forward to last year the diaphram for the pressure switch started to leak, they do not sell just the the diaphram (probably a $0.25 piece).  I ended up buying the a Remco pressure switch just to get the diaphram but that fixed the leak.  Took a trip in June, all was good. 

Then in Oct I was leaving for another extended trip and when I turned on the water pump it wouldn't start,  Tapped the pressure switch with the end of a screw driver and the pump started BUT then it would shut off.  So I went ahead and replace the pressure switch but couldn't get it to adjust to stop the pump, >>> CALLED Remco and talk to a tech and he said I couldn't replace the switch, this only could be done at the factory on a test stand.  I know others post that it can be adjusted, I am just relaying what the tech told me. 

So I left on my trip and just turned the pump on/off at the switch until I got a chance to stop at RV store in Grand Junction.  I decided to just replace with the cheapest one I could find and ended up buying a Lippert https://www.lippert.com/12v-flow-max-water-pump-689052  It was an easy swap, my pump is connected with a looped water hose which helps reduce noise and vibration.  The pump is only rated at 3 GPM but does just as good as the Aquajet for half the price IMHO!!

 

 

[Tom Cherry]

8 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

When I bought my 2002 Windsor the previous owner had already replaced the water pump and removed the accumulator tank.  The pump was the Aquajet 55.  This pump failed in 2011 and I replaced it with the Aquajet 55 series.  Fast forward to last year the diaphram for the pressure switch started to leak, they do not sell just the the diaphram (probably a $0.25 piece).  I ended up buying the a Remco pressure switch just to get the diaphram but that fixed the leak.  Took a trip in June, all was good. 

Then in Oct I was leaving for another extended trip and when I turned on the water pump it wouldn't start,  Tapped the pressure switch with the end of a screw driver and the pump started BUT then it would shut off.  So I went ahead and replace the pressure switch but couldn't get it to adjust to stop the pump, >>> CALLED Remco and talk to a tech and he said I couldn't replace the switch, this only could be done at the factory on a test stand.  I know others post that it can be adjusted, I am just relaying what the tech told me. 

So I left on my trip and just turned the pump on/off at the switch until I got a chance to stop at RV store in Grand Junction.  I decided to just replace with the cheapest one I could find and ended up buying a Lippert https://www.lippert.com/12v-flow-max-water-pump-689052  It was an easy swap, my pump is connected with a looped water hose which helps reduce noise and vibration.  The pump is only rated at 3 GPM but does just as good as the Aquajet for half the price IMHO!!

 

 

Sounds logical to me.  Not my experience.  My only comment, my daughter and GD had issues with shower flow when shampooing and rinsing hair.  Quickly found out.  The inline garden hose flow regulators not only reduced pressures but also “halved” the flow.  So, with a 5 GPM whole house filter, I could only get 2 or 3 GPM out of shower.  BUT, with the Remco, it was a full 5 PLUS GPM.  Let them use pump when showering.  Then, got smart….bought a REAL high flow Valterra pressur controller.

MY POINT.  Family needs and preferences often factor into purchases and features. I can NOT go back to half flow….or I lose my “lady family members”.

Just evaluate all aspects of the “needs” or parameters.  If you want  to test low flow….use an inline one or cut back on the CG faucet….and measure….if all is well and everyone happy…go for it.

Real bummer about the Remco….wonder if Remco is now outsourcing and no longer buying from AquaTech like they did for years after they bought the rights and name?.?

[Dr4Film]

I have this Remco AquaJet 55 ARV 5.3 gpm with an accumulator tank that has worked just fine for the past two years or more. I don't expect to have any problems in the future either.

[tmw188]

Similar story, I replaced my OE with the Remco Power RV Series Aquajet 5.3 mine did not have an accumulator tank. I too could not get parts for the old leaking one. I installed w/o a check valve. Loop hoses as it was. I will tell you this these pumps are rated potable drinking water safe because they have orings and diaphrams made of different material than a typical general purpose agricultural pumps which are less expensive. Others I’m told can get bacteria and other not so friendly growth on them. That’s why the correct pumps say drinking water safe or potable water safe. To get the warranty you have to purchase from their sellers like CW and other rv centers. Best price believe it or not was at CW, I purchased in FL $224.00

[1nolaguy]

Last year I replaced the OEM water pump in our 2005 Safari Cheetah with a PowerMax's Shurflo 4008 |101-A65/E65 |12V 3 Gallon RV replacement water pump ($64 from Amazon). While I do not have a accumulator the design of this pump should not be effected by that extra equipment. Also, if you have an accumulator you would not want a high volume pump. Most pumps in general do not like to be short cycled.

[Redg58]

Thanks for you response guys……ordered the Remco Aquajet variable flow 5.3 gallon. Haven’t decided if removing the accumulator yet 

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, Redg58 said:

Thanks for you response guys……ordered the Remco Aquajet variable flow 5.3 gallon. Haven’t decided if removing the accumulator yet 

Unless you KNOW the present accumulator is “absolutely perfect” as in the internal bladder is water tight, you might want to cap off the fitting and pull it out.  Weighing it and comparing to the same one….to determine if there is water on the air bladder side or the ever popular “shake and slosh” test is the only way.  

many folks here use a 2X 8, pressure treated pad.  They screw it down to a 1/4” hard rubber sheet or something to prevent vibration.  Then they use the 18” Loops.  You can buy the 1/2” reinforced tubing at Lowes and make the inlet and outlet vibration reduction loops.  That really makesthe pump almost silent.

Assume you also ordered the check assembly or the backflow preventer for the outlet….otherwise, install a hard plumbed one.

That is a nice looking Dynasty.  The 2008 would be my choice…..sharp

 

[Redg58]

Thanks, I attempted to check the pressure on the accumulator and had water coming out, so I’m assuming the bladder has failed. Now plan to remove or cap it off. Don’t really have an understanding of the vibration loops, can you elaborate? Would you happen to have any pictures of the setup?

[Tom Cherry]

Most of Monaco’s pumps were direct of hard plumbed with PEX. (Or equivalent).  Some of the lines were laying of floor of bay where pump was.  The vibrations from the pump would lack like a” “bass drum” in that the pex would vibrate up and down and “smack” the floor.  NOISE.

See below.  You need or most do, one on each end.  That solves it.

Hope this helps….probably some pictures here, but the concept is simple.  May be a video on Youtube on “reduce rv water pump vibration”.  Folks that used the 2 X 8 (or whatever width you need) pad with rubber underneath it and the loops said that they could barely hear the pump.  In SOME cases, Monaco dropped down the pex and didn’t run on the floor.  Mine is on floor and I put Pipe Insulation (split in half) under the pex and that fixed mine…

NOT all need it…but raising and protecting the pump and the flex line loops is the first class way…and you got a first class rig…LOL.

 

[Benjamin]

The basic cause of most pump noise is the pulsating output.  These pumps are positive displacement pumps with a pulsating output, not a centrifugal pump like a well pump.  Any bit of accumulator near the pump output will help dampen that pulse.  The softer vinyl hose absorbs some of that pressure pulse. A tee with a section of pipe going up and capped so it holds air will help also, that would be a tiny accumulator commonly called a water hammer arrestor. 

[Redg58]

Thanks everyone you have educated me once again!

[Ivylog]

Like Jim ^^^ “last year the diaphram for the pressure switch started to leak, they do not sell just the the diaphram (probably a $0.25 piece).  I ended up buying the a Remco pressure switch just to get the diaphram but that fixed the leak” I had to buy the pressure switch to get the diaphragm.

I wonder if a diaphragm could be 3D printed out of a silicon base material?

[David Pratt]

Attached are a couple of pictures of the water pump installation in our Foretravel ih-45. I also attached a drawing of the Foam Isolator Mounting Block I made for mounting the Water Pump to keep it very quiet.

[David Pratt]

If Your RV Water Pump is Pulsing? Fix It!

Your RV water pump is a fantastic thing! It allows water to flow through your rig’s plumbing no matter where you are. This provides all the water-related creature comforts of home in your RV, even if you’re camped in the middle of the woods, the desert, or on the beach. But, if your RV water pump is pulsing, it can not only interfere with your enjoyment of a nice hot shower but can also mean that there’s a problem in your rig’s plumbing system.

And that problem, with the water flow pulsing up and down with the cycling of the pump, can mean a very unpleasant experience… especially in the shower. That lull and surge can cause the temperature of the water to fluctuate… sometimes QUITE severely! And no one wants THAT!

So, let’s take a look at what a pulsing RV water pump can indicate, and how to fix it!

Why Does My RV Water Pump Pulse?

Your RV’s water pump is designed to only run while the plumbing is in use. This means that you should only hear your water pump if you’re currently running the water somewhere in your RV…in a sink, an indoor or outdoor shower, the toilet, the ice maker, etc.

When you’re not hooked up to a pressurized source of “city” water, your water pump is the only reason water reaches your faucets. But again, it only runs while it’s actually making that delivery. The moment you turn off all faucets, you should no longer hear your water pump running. This is important to remember because it can help you to detect and diagnose an issue with your plumbing system, should one occur, including a water leak.

So, when you run the water somewhere in your RV, you’ll hear the water pump come on. It’s essentially compensating for the drop of pressure in the system. The faster you run water, the more rapidly the pump speed will increase to handle the demand. The pump will run constantly while the water is on, but at variable speeds depending on demand. As Tom Cherry explained in the prior post most of the RV Water Pumps, Aquajet, Shurflo etc are pulse diaphragm pumps and not centrifugal pumps, therefore they pulse when in operation.

If you hear the pump come on when you’re not running water, it could indicate a leak in the system. Remember – you should only hear your water pump if you’re calling for water somewhere on the RV. It could also indicate a broken part inside the water pump itself.  

Another reason why your RV water pump may be cycling-(the water pump is trying to start and stop continuously),  is a pressure switch that isn’t set properly. Your RV’s water pump uses a pressure switch to start and stop. If the switch isn’t set correctly, cycling can occur. You may be able to adjust the pressure setting. However, not all makes and models of water pumps are adjustable.

Many are, though, so let’s jump into how to adjust your water pump’s pressure setting.

How Do You Fix a Cycling/Pulsing RV Water Pump?

Depending on what’s causing the rapid cycling/pulsing of your RV water pump, there are a few different ways to address the issue.

Let’s start with adjusting a water pump’s pressure setting.

Adjust Your RV Water Pump’s Pressure Setting

 

To lower the cut-off pressure of the pump simply unscrew a little until you get the desired result. (You’ll turn clockwise to increase the cut-off pressure to stop the cycling, and you’ll turn counterclockwise to lower the cut-off pressure of the pump.)

It’s important to note here that the screw doesn’t affect the flow rate. It simply adjusts the cut-off pressure. Each system usually has a sweet spot. Also, as the pump ages, sometimes the tension of the spring changes, and a small adjustment can make the difference between a rapid Cycling/Pulsing or non-pulsing water pump.

The goal here is to adjust the screw until the pump delivers a steady flow, and then turn off the water and make sure that the pump turns off within about 5-10 seconds or so. When you’ve reached this goal, you’ve found your pump’s sweet spot.

1. Locate the housing at the end of your water pump where the pipe is connected. The housing should have two red wires coming from it. There you should find an Allen screw (sometimes called a hex-key screw).

2. Turn on your shower.

3. Using an Allen wrench, turn the screw clockwise until the cycling stops. I recommends making ¼ turns at a time.)

4. Turn off the shower to test. If you turn off the shower and the pump won’t turn off, you’ve turned the Allen screw too far. Back it off slightly by turning the screw counterclockwise until the pump stops.

 

 Accumulator Tank

The purpose of an accumulator tank is to regulate the pressure in your RV’s plumbing system, allowing your water pump to run more smoothly. They were designed mostly for centrifugal constant speed water pumps.

An accumulator tank is a plastic reservoir containing a pressurized bladder. The bladder allows the accumulator tank to absorb and regulate pressure highs and lows in the system when you want more or less demand..

As your water pump runs, the pressure within the bladder will fluctuate in an effort to maintain a constant pressure level in the system. This should help with highs and lows that can cause your RV’s water flow to pulse while the pump is running.

An accumulator tank can also reduce the amount of cycling from your pump and absorb pressure drops from running the tap, meaning your pump doesn’t have to work so hard. This can increase the life of your water pump..

Are There Other Reasons For RV Water Pump Pulsing?

The most common reason the flow of water from an RV water pump is pulsing is a mis-adjustment/failure of the pressure sensor built into the pump.

As Tom Cherry suggested, It is also  recommended that you can be reduced most of the pulsing by installing a looped flexible hose to the input and output ends of the pump. Look at the prior posts.

Attached is a picture of the Aquajet 55 RV water pump, other water pumps are similar. Looking at the head, on the right side of the head is the cut off switch and on the top of the switch is the allen/hex screw to adjust the cut-off pressure. on the left lower side of the pump is the pressure regulator and the allen screw to adjust the pressure output of the pump. On the newer pumps the allen screws are covered over with silicon and on some the pressure adjust switch has been eliminated.

 

550 Series Aquajet Variable Speed 12VDC 5.0 GPM.pdf

[Benjamin]

Accumulator tanks (bladder tanks/pressure tanks) were used with RV pumps in some cases simply to get enough flow from small single speed pumps, at least for several seconds of use.  A larger variable speed pump doesn't need the same storage, and as noted in Tom's first post, a tank can cause issues with the variable speed controls.  In most cases, a water hammer arrestor, or a small vertical dead end for an air chamber will absorb the pump output pulse which is a fraction of an ounce and smoothed between three "cylinders".  A water hammer arrestor won't let you flush the toilet while the dishwasher is running and someone is in the shower without noticing the pressure drop, the pump will sink or swim on it's own in that case, but a gallon or half gallon of stored water in the pressure tank is not going to make much difference there either. 

[Redg58]

Thanks again on the generous amount of info provided guys! Really enjoy this forum.