Dr4Film

Mike, If your parking place at home is reasonably level then I would suggest that after you get parked at home, dump all the air from the bags so it will not leak down in one corner tipping the coach to one side and tweaking the windshield. Then when you are ready to leave, air up the coach to ride height. When using the HWH Air Leveling System, Frank M. recommends that once you are level, turn the system off so it won't constantly attempt to re-level the coach possibly burning up the motor. The HWH Auto-mode Air Leveling System works this way: It will first DUMP air attempting to level the coach. Then if needed it will raise the coach using either air from the tanks or its onboard compressor to fine tune until all of the orange lights go off. The coach will level faster with the engine running as it uses the air from the large tanks to raise the sides or ends. This is all explained in the operator's manual for your specific HWH model and system.

My current 06 Dynasty has power to the pedal adjust full-time, no lockout. I don't recall how it was on my previous 02 Windsor but my guess would be that it is identical to how Jim J described it in one of his very early posts, power only when ignition is on.

Ray, From the Home screen scroll down until you see Classified Ads. Then click on Coaches for Sale. Within the large Grey Bar on the right there is a large rectangle button that states "Start New Topic". Click on that and you are now at a place where you can insert the Title (required) and further down is where you insert any and all information about the coach you are selling. Then to add photos, you simply click on "choose files" where the paperclip is located near the bottom. Finally, once you are satisfied with the write-up and photos, then click on Submit Topic. Good luck in your sale!

I believe the wiring goes to and through an Aladdin Module. Exactly where it is located is a guess. Possibly hidden in a false ceiling area in one of the bays. The cables are RJ-11 wires.

When my Swan Valve failed in the Windsor many years ago, I called the Swan company at the time and they stated that their new valve was smaller in size than what was in my Windsor. Based on how it was mounted and plumbed I knew then that I would not replace it with a new one as it would require major surgery to get it in correctly. Glad I took a different approach.

As Tom stated, check for a fuse first then look at the switch.

Gary, The first photo would be the service bay on the driver's side. The second photo is on the passenger side after I was able to open up a bay door that was strapped and secured underneath with screws.

Van, right on brother! For those that like campfires I build and sell an RV Campfire Smoke Shifter that is guaranteed for lifetime.

This is my previous 2002 Windsor. The black tank flush valve is original and came from the factory exactly like you see it. I simply disconnected the water line and installed the three-way valve, 1/2 inch water lines along with a new back flush valve in my grey tank on the left. Those sensors are original also and work to this day. Had to do some taping to keep them in place. I added the SeeLevel Tank Level System with the display in the service bay.

Sorry for you having to deal with the damage to your coaches' bay doors. I have come close to doing the exact same thing early on when I first owned my Windsor. After having a couple of close calls, from that point on I decided to ONLY use truck stops to put fuel on board. The fuel is fresher, and the fuel islands are very easy to enter and exit. The parking lots are huge also. Easy to maneuver around especially when I was towing a 30-foot trailer at the time. A good body shop will make that coach look brand new. Possibly you can use your insurance company to help pay for the damage, Good luck and safe travels!

I did something similar when I owned the Windsor many years ago after the Swan Valve failed to work correctly. It would only allow water to flow using the City position, not the Fresh Water tank Fill position. I installed a custom-made water input system using a three-way valve plus a yellow ball valve on the Back Flush System. The three-way valve would allow me to direct incoming water to either the coach or the back flush system. The yellow ball valve is there to minimize the amount of water draining back from the Vacuum Check Valve in the bathroom to the service bay. When preparing to travel, I remove the fixture and install end caps on the two openings plus close the small hatch on the floor. I solved the problem of not having a quick way to fill the freshwater tank by installing a custom-made Auto-Fill System which worked great any time I was hooked to shore water. No need to replace the failed Swan Valve! Our current 06 Dynasty has a single shore water hookup plus two different ball valves in the service bay that controls when to fill the freshwater tank and when to back flush the Black Tank. When disconnecting shore water with the pump on, water comes out of the hose, bad or missing check valve. The hose end now has a Y-shut-off installed on the hose which stays there. When hooking up to shore water I like to have one extra spigot and one for the coach. This was a good way to accomplish both and eliminate the water leaking out of the hose when the pump is on. I also plan to install a back flushing valve into the Grey Tank and a three-way valve as well just like I did with the Windsor which will allow me to choose which tank I want to back flush.

We use Dawn Platinum Liquid Dish soap for washing dishes. Haven't seen any significant amount of suds EVER when dumping. Infact, the only suds I may see coming from the grey tank is the very last gallon or so of water which represents the TOP of the grey water sitting in the tank. Whether these suds come from doing dishes or taking showers I don't know BUT I prefer to have some suds coming out at that time. I use the suds to lubricate the Black and Grey Dump Valves by closing the Black valve once I see the slippery suds trickling down followed with the Grey valve. Don't need to purchase any "special" lubricant for the valves as the soapy suds does the job each and every time when we dump tanks.

You would have to find a member who owns an identical 2005 Safari Cheetah.

The headlamp should have a DOT code on it someplace. Google that number to find out what vehicle they were used on. Then order them from a reliable vendor on the Internet

If it can be used when doing laundry in millions of homes with plastic drain pipes I highly doubt that it will have any affect on the thick plastic tanks and pipes used in an RV or a mobile home especially when it has been diluted with lots of water. JMHO

Gary, Thanks for the tip! I will give it a go as we use this product in our laundry daily at home and at laundromats when we travel. If it works that well in the Black Tank I will use it in both to keep the grey tank from building up greasy deposits along with the Dawn Professional I am presently using in the grey tank.

Bryan, The person to talk with that has had two installed, one in his 03 Diplomat and one in his now 02 HR Imperial, is Gene Howe. Send him a message! gene.howe - Bill D’s Monacoers

They installed bottom plates to my Windsor one year on my way to Alaska when I was there having some other work done. They had pointed out that the bottom of the Flush-Floor Slide was just starting to show some wear. They did a great job of installing the exterior exhaust vent for the microwave that I had purchased plus some work on my air dryer, etc. They are ex-Monaco techs that started up their own business when Monaco went bankrupt.

Dexter, One place in Oregon you could call is Elite RV in Harrisburg. Elite R&R RV Restorations - We restore, renovate and repair RV trailers (eliternr.com)

I am surprised that your 06 Sig has a separate Black Tank back flushing water input for a hose. My 06 Dynasty does not therefore it has a Back Flush valve which needs to be turn ON for the water to flow to the tank. If no valve can be found, like a previous poster stated, you then have to remove the Back Flush valve from the tank and clean the spray ports out until they are open and working correctly. Or you can purchase a new one and install in its place. https://tinyurl.com/454jx2n4

I am removing a perfectly good working Big Boy Isolator relay and replacing with a Blue Seas ML-ACR which is smarter, handles more amps and is never hot, remains cool. to touch. That ONE device replaces many components. To me that's a no-brainer. I think you are making the project harder and more complicated than it has to be.

Scotty, I carry a spare that I had rebuilt in Anchorage AK on one of my trips up there to spend the summer. I had them take my failed 160-amp ALT and beef it up to a 200-amp ALT using Leece-Neville components. The shop is called Central Pacific Rebuilders, 724 E 15th Ave, Anchorage, AK 99501

You can see on the back wall where the BEP Disconnect Switch was located that it had burned up, black marks on the fiberglass. Remove the other one and replace with either a Blue Seas, Perko or Guest Disconnect Switch. Get rid of the current failed Battery Isolator Relay which has been by-passed and replace it with the Blue Seas ML-ACR. After that, you will be able to evaluate your battery bank situation. for the house and chassis.

It's called a Glide Bar. After many years of deploying and retracting the main flush floor slide, you WILL see wear on the underside of the slide. Before that happens it's best to have plates installed on the ends to protect the thin aluminum that covers the bottom of the slide.

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