Dr4Film

Mike, a rotten egg smells like sulfur. That can come from either a gas leak, a bad sewer leak or even possibly out-gassing of batteries.

Here is a recent, January 2023, review on Amazon of the upgraded GT4000S GOOLOO which is the unit I decided to purchase. "4.0 out of 5 stars Excels at Jump Starting vehicles, the rest is OK Reviewed in the United States on January 11, 2023 Verified Purchase The best feature is its jump starting capability. Just clamp onto the battery, get the READY indication, get into the vehicle and start it up. Next best, it does supply a good variety of auxiliary power for 12 vdc items that would be run off vehicle accessory (cigarette lighter) plugs as well as USB chargeable devices. Finally I like the digital displays that show the percent capacity (0-100%) of the unit's battery pack and the watts of power it is delivering to accessories or receiving for its recharge. Both of these readouts show reasonable accuracy with respect to electrical test equipment I have. Only thing Gooloo could do better on this model would be provide display metrics for amp-hours and watt-hours of energy to help manage the battery pack energy more wisely during use. But it is after all just a simple consumer product. Most of my disappointment with the Gooloo GT4000S falls within a couple of areas. First, the metrics in its specifications mislead and confused me. The 4000 peak amps seems to be just plain mythical hype. Even the 500/800 amp for a 3/5-second starting amp rating is a bit far fetched. The jumper leads themselves are merely #8 gauge wire not truly rated to withstand such enormous starting current. And inside the GT4000S, its crucial protection relay is rated for only about a 10th of that starting current. For long, trouble-free service life, this device' operation is likely premised on quick starting success with ample assist from the vehicle's battery. Lots of harsh service could likely result in early failure or degraded battery longevity. A puzzling metric in the specs is the milliamp-hour rating of 28,600 with a mere 99.2 watt-hours of battery pack gross energy. I deduced that this enormous rating of milliamps was with respect to capability dealing with USB devices that would charge with nominal 3.7 vdc operating voltage. However, when using the GT4000S as a power station for 12 vdc devices, you wouldn't likely have enough capacity to supply those kind devices over an hour or two. This should be more truly portrayed by a 7,000 milliamp-hour rating with respect to the internal Li-ion pack's nominal 14.8 DC voltage rating, that being what your 12V devices are actually working with. Finally, the provisions the GT4000S has for recharging its internal battery are a mixed bag. They include just a couple of USB-C cables, but no AC outlet power supplies for them. With typical USB AC adapters many people already possess, you could expect to AC charge the GT4000S from nothing over 5-10 hours. If you have a 60/100 watt USB-C AC adapter, you can cut that time down to 1.0-1.5 hours. Or if you use the provided USB-C cable that plugs into a vehicle accessory receptacle, with the vehicle running you can accomplish a100% charge in an hour as well. However, I found that the red colored charge cable provided becomes surprisingly warm after just a few minutes. It is delivering a solid 100 watts of charging all the while. I suspect this might not be the preferred full charging method for the GT4000S, more just a short (20-30%) boost to get into play enough to start a vehicle. In summary, I was intending to purchase the GT4000S mainly as power station with more utility than just a 2-3X per year personal vehicle jump starter. But I needed to decipher their specs more clearly to see that I should spend $100 more on something like a Gooloo GTx 280. This model provides much more "true" battery capacity for succeeding well at all the power station functions as solely at jump starting. Time will tell whether "rationing" of the power station will prove too tedious for me to find the GT4000S as broadly useful as I had hoped."

Your grey tank can smell just as bad as your black tank.

What device are you referring to in your post above?

Thanks, Ivan! I ordered 12 for my house batteries. I had a set on the house batteries for my previous Windsor for years. In fact, a friend of mine gave me his set when he switched over to AGM's. I let them go when I sold the coach last year. I prefer the Water Miser Caps to any auto-battery fill system. They really work well and help reduce the frequent watering of the flooded house batteries.

Chris Throgmartin of Talin RV has an Ambassador coach. I would ask him how to replace the air intake hose.

Tile adds a lot of extra weight to the coach versus engineered wood type flooring. Plus, title is very susceptible to cracks and breakage. If it were me, I would remove the existing tile and replace it all with wood like flooring. Ernie Ekberg is our resident flooring expert. Ask him what his opinion would be for your situation.

Based on your specific floorplan, your kitchen is up in the front of the coach near the TV. I would change out all of your Mechanical Vents located throughout the coach to upgraded new ones especially the one under your kitchen sink. I recommend the Studor Mechanical Vent over the cheaper black ones listed above.

Sounds like you have lost your 12 VDC power. Bypass the Battery Cutoff solenoid and all your 12 VDC power should be good after that.

Take a 100 mile drive then recheck the level.

I just looked back on my previous eBay purchase and the hose was 7 inches ID and it was called RFH hose.

I replaced the air intake hose a few years back on my previous Windsor. I ordered it from an eBay vendor. If I remember correctly it was 7 inches in diameter and I only needed a foot or so. The hose clamped onto an opening at the bottom of the air intake chamber and the other end clamped onto the intake of the air filter.

I have only seen them for sale at Veurinks RV supply. They may very well be available other places. Just have to do an extensive Internet search to find the best deal.

Todd, The Windsor never had a surge tank but the Dynasty I have now does have one. The only difference I can tell is that when you first turn on any faucet with the surge tank the pump doesn't come on immediately like it did in the Windsor. I really don't see ANY advantage to having a surge tank in an RV versus having one in a house with a well. The large house well pump units where the surge tanks are much larger, if you only use a small amount of water then the surge tank is useful as the well pump won't turn on until the pressure in the surge tank drops to a specific level. That saves wear and tear on the pump and electricity. Amazon has the Aqua-Jet ARV-55 as having 3.5 gpm and the AES-55 having 5.3 gpm. It is actually the reverse. Plus, normally the ARV is more expensive than the AES. Have no idea why they have it the way it is but we are talking about Amazon not Remco who has it correct. AquaJet PUMP – Remco (remcoindustries.dreamhosters.com)

Todd, That is what was in my previous 02 Windsor and has been replaced by the same model which is now a Remco. Mine did not surge nor was there ever a surge tank. It is a variable speed pump so when the demand is low it won't run as fast as when the demand is higher. Possibly your pressure valve was acting up causing it to surge. I would replace it with the Remco Aqua-Jet ARV55 which is 5.3 gpm. Unless you want to try the smaller version of the Remco Aqua-Jet model AES55 which is 3.5 gpm. Up to you. By the way, Amazon has the descriptions wrong for the two models on their website. So don't get confused.

Here are four photos of my previous Windsor which has Thermal Checking in various places. The most severe area was the entry door, photo #1. I used Black Velvet Paste Wax which would cover it up for a short time. One of the major reasons when I decided to upgrade to the 2006 Dynasty Countess III was for the exterior color scheme it had, ""Man's Best Friend." You have to look hard for the very little Thermal Checking that is there.

Mike, your J2 plug is identical to mine. Must be normal.

I guess you must have missed reading my previous post. Not always true!

My bike rack goes on the back of our car when needed. No need to mess with any bike rack located between the two vehicles plus with a generator slide on the front of the coach eliminates having anything on the front of our Dynasty.

The VIP Control Box, SM210, is located in the FRB in the lower left area of the bay. In case you don't have the VIP Manual or the Trouble-Shooting Manual, I have attached them for you. It has troubleshooting steps that you can follow in order to locate the problem. VIP Smart Wheel Troubleshooting Manual.pdf Vip SmartWheel Owner's Manual.pdf

The 2002 Monaco Windsor came from the factory with the Essex 1601 Keypad and at least one and possibly two Key-Fob's for the keyless entry system. Ian purchased the coach without any Key-Fobs and now would like to add an aftermarket Key-Fob to his existing system. He just needs to follow what the OP did when he added a Key-Fob to his Keyless Entry System.

Wayne, The sole purpose of the two relays is to turn a "positive" signal into a "negative" signal which is what the Essex control wiring is looking for to lock or unlock. When you look back at the Essex Wiring Diagram you will need to tap into the wires labeled RED and BLACK to get power and ground to your new control box receiver and the relays. Then you need to tap into the Brown and Green wires for the lock and unlock functions. The lugs on the relay are self-explanatory.

I would trust the diagram sequence versus the part numbers. Remember that this wiring diagram is for multiple coach models.

Look toward the end where it shows the circuit boards in the FRB. I think with some patience and process of elimination you will figure it out.

Look for Fuse numbers F-20 through F-17 on the wiring diagrams once you find the correct fuse board.