Dr4Film

If you don't have one already, then I would highly suggest that you install a Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C prior to your transfer switch with a display that will tell you specifically the quality of your incoming power. The Intellitec EMS is only useful when you have the generator running or are on good shore power less than 50 amps. The control board is doing the work, the display is only there to inform you of what the control board is doing.

Thought so! I purchased one this past year on Amazon for $10. I had dropped the lens when removing it from the ceiling and it took a chip out it.

Is the lens glass or plastic as you stated in your original post?

Sorry for my ignorance, but how does a failed EMS display cause no power to your coach? You did state in your first post that your batteries had died due to having the Inverter powering something that was running in the coach. Something is not making any sense.

Remove the glass lens by rotating it counterclockwise to expose the bulb and recessed fixture. Posting a photo of your specific light fixture would be helpful.

I always leave the black valve open after the contents have been evacuated with the black back flush running. Then open the grey water last. There is lots of soapy water at the end to lubricate both the black and gray valves. I then close the black valve followed by the grey valve. That procedure has worked for 20 years without having any sticky valve problems.

Valves are not glued to the main dump pipes. You remove the four screws and nuts from each valve, and with a little pressure to the side you remove the valve and rubber gaskets from in-between the two square flanges that remain.

Try one of the many RV Salvage Yards that are listed in the Monacoers Parts List. VisoneRv is one of more popular ones. RV Salvage Parts VisoneRV Used RV Parts | usedrvparts.visonerv.com

Unfortunately that will be a huge challenge as most surplus stock has disappeared. Your only recourse may be custom made bezels with the specific labels you are searching for.

Todd, Northwest RV Supply has some in white but not very many as they are not as common as the black ones.

I agree with Jim. I had a new radiator made and installed at CG&J in Gadsden AL for my Windsor back in 2015. The very first thing I noticed was my transmission temps were 10F higher than with the old radiator. Plus, the new radiator started to "seep" at the top about 3 years later. One bottle of Irontite solved that issue. I, also, no longer recommend CG&J for any radiator work.

Vanwill is the most knowledgeable on this issue. He is our resident expert on many systems within our coaches.

In my previous Windsor, I had one fluorescent light fixture over the sink that I had to replace as it affected both the EMS display and my tank level system. Took me quite a while to narrow it down but after replacing it with a new one, no more issues.

Ernie Ekberg and his son are the resident flooring experts on this site.

Big difference in the operation and consumption of an Aqua-Hot that has a small boiler tank which only holds 5 gallons versus those that have 15-16 gallons. I believe the 400 series units all have the smaller tanks. Plus, if people would read their manuals, it states right up front in the operational manuals that it's best to have the Diesel switch on ALL the time as that is the PRIMARY heat source of the Aqua-Hot and the Electric Assist switch can be left on also as that is the secondary heat source. However, if you have one of the 600 series units that have two electric elements than depending on your location and demand you may not need the diesel at all.

Check with Jim J, a member here who had installed a separate transmission cooler on his 02 Windsor.

Have you tried reset the entire Aladdin System with the reset switch?

I would try the company called Trimark to see if your handle matches what they sell.

Drill a small hole directly under the location where the plunger is positioned. Then push a stiff object up through the hole to open the bay door.

You need to sort out the reason for the EMS showing that you are on 30-amp shore power if you are on 50-amp shore power first. I would not trust what the meter says or amps you are drawing until that is determined. Also, as others have stated, when on 50-amp shore power the amp display is blank.

Well, the Inverter was running because you had NO shore power. The first thing I would look at is the 50-15/20 amp adapter that you purchased. Those aren't always well made products. That is the only NEW device that you have entered into the problem assuming that everything worked properly on normal shore power previously.

The Block Heater runs ONLY when you are hooked to 120 VAC shore power or have the generator running. There should be a Block Heater Switch on the driver's side dashboard. At least that is where it is on my previous Windsor and current Dynasty has it on the main dashboard over to the left. You also have to make sure that the heater is plugged into the duplex in the engine bay AND have the Block Heater circuit breaker on. I would run the heater for at least 12-24 hours before attempting to start the engine. WRT the generator, just make sure that you prime the engine first really well by holding the start switch DOWN and then HOLD the start switch UP a long time until you hear the engine cranking. Hopefully it will start up once that happens.

Northwest RV Supply will either have a copy or make you one.

Your EMS display requires both 12 VDC power and 120 VAC power. The storage lights are 12 VDC power. So, I would start troubleshooting why you have no 12 VDC power FIRST. There are a myriad of reasons why, so you have to start at the batteries and work your way forward. Make sure you have a good working DVOM meter. Bad batteries Bad grounds Defective Battery Cut-Off Switch Defective Battery Isolator Relay Solenoid and the list goes on and on. Then for no 120 VAC power you have many places to look at. Bad power receptacle Bad power supply cord Bad transfer switch These are just a few of the reasons.

My previous Windsor had the optional Winter Package installed. That package was basically a System Heat switch which activated a set of tank heat pads located under each tank. It also powered up a circuit that goes to a Snap Disc located in the service bay that once the temperature in the bay reached its set point and closed the Snap Disc then the Road Pro 180 Watt Heater would turn on heating up the service bay until the temperature rose to the set point of the Snap Disc which would then turn off the heater. As the temperature fluctuated the heater would come on and off as needed.