Dr4Film

Most appliance repair service technicians will not work on a residential fridge installed in a RV. I was fortunate enough to find one in Santa Clarita CA to work on my Samsung RF197 while it was still under warranty. I think you will discover that you are on your own for troubleshooting and repairs. Can't help you with removal due to not knowing how it was installed originally. If the Samsung in my previous Windsor needed to be removed, I would be able to assist the new owner as to how it would come out. The Samsung in my current Dynasty was installed prior to my purchase so I am in the same boat as you. Hopefully that Samsung RF197 keeps preforming well for many years to come.

The NotSoCold went out the curbside salon window and the Samsung RF197 came in through the same window. Easy Peasey!

There is no filter on the supply line to the Magnum Opus toilet. My current Dynasty has a Magnum Opus and my previous Windsor has a Magnum Opus and neither of them have any water filter in the supply line going to the toilet.

Those d*** things are not check valves and are a poor excuse for a water regulator. They are definitely water restrictors. I throw all of them in the trash the very first time I encounter one. Invest in a good water regulator that is adjustable with a gauge.

I worked with a Weller service technician in Michigan who specializes in Sheppard to TRW box swaps. Then they shipped it to the Weller location in Tampa FL which then was delivered to Josam's who did the swap for me including a new pitman arm. The project was done in June of 2017 to my previous 2002 Windsor. Search the forum to find my posts on the subject.

Thanks, Bill, for the information. I have changed my mind as to how I plan to accomplish this task after having a phone call from one of the members here that had done it previously with great success. Thanks everyone for posting their thoughts and ideas.

Nope, my intention is to use this male connection at the coach whereby I plug an extension cord with a 50-amp male end into my 50-amp RV shore power receptacle then plug the female end of the extension into the box at the coach once I lift the cover up and connect the cable. Once the cable is connected, I will switch the manual transfer switch from the normal coach position to the house position. Then go to my garage and double check to make sure the 200-amp main house panel has been disconnected and finally go to the coach and start the generator. Fairly simple and entirely safe in my opinion. Might not be for anyone who is electrically challenged. So, for those people they may be better off installing a Generac Home Generator system instead of attempting to use their coach generator. Or just stick to running an extension cord from one duplex outlet in the coach to the house to keep the fridge running.

Jim, Thanks for your feedback! That 50-amp male receptable is exactly what I had intended to use at the coach end if I decide to go with method #2. The generator already has a circuit breaker on it so don't need another one. Regarding the Generac Transfer Switch, too much trouble and expense when it only takes a few seconds to flip the main 200-amp breaker off at the main panel. My neighbor had a Generac Generator and transfer Switch installed onto his house a few years ago after they moved in. I hear the generator running about once a week as it gets exercised a certain amount of time to make sure it will be ready to go when needed.

After having had two back-to-back hurricanes affecting my area of Florida, I was thinking about how I could use my 10 KW coach generator to power some of the house. After the most recent hurricane, Nicole, we were without power for almost two days. I used a 100-foot extension cord reel that had four outlets on the side of the reel and plugged it into the 120 VAC outlet in the service bay. I ran the cord up to the second floor where our living area is located. I then used the four plugs on the side of the reel to power the fridge, one lamp, my AT&T Mobley device and my laptop. I know that whatever I decide to construct, the very first thing I must do is to turn off the 200-amp main circuit breakers to completely disconnect the house power panel from the incoming power line eliminating any back feeding to the power grid. I have thought about two different methods to utilize the coaches 10 KW generator. One is to make up two long 12-gauge Romex cables that would come together in 50-amp Camco male plug. One cable would be plugged into the 120 VAC outlet in the service bay and the second would be plugged into the 120 VAC outlet on the passenger side of the coach which are on opposite power phases and circuit breakers in the power panel of the coach. The 50-amp male plug would then go into the 50-amp RV outlet I use to power the coach while parked. Once everything is plugged in then power up the generator. I would have about 1800 watts of power on each leg or a total of 3600 watts of power to use in the house. That would be enough to keep the fridge going, power some lights, TV, microwave, chargers, etc. I would not be able to run the AC, hot water heater, stove or dryer, basically anything that requires 240 VAC cannot be used. The second idea was to remove the generator wire from the transfer switch and wire it into a manual transfer switch that would funnel power to a 50-amp receptacle with the switch in one direction or funnel power to the onboard Surge Guard Transfer Switch to power the coach with the switch in the “normal” position. Then using a 50-amp power extension cord, plug one end into the special 50-amp receptacle and the other would be plugged into my 50-amp RV outlet on the wall. I would then have plenty of power available to power the house but keeping in mind that I would not be able to run ALL of the 240 VAC devices at the same time. I would only be able to use one at a time such as the central AC when needed, hot water heater when needed, stove or dryer when needed. What are your thoughts on each method? Obviously, the second method would require more work than the first. Not much work needed to put together a special cable for the first method. Thanks for your thoughts and comments.

I had Barry at Josam's replace the drag link on my previous Windsor back in July of 2017. That is something that I have no desire to tackle so I let the experts, Josam's, do it for me. I will be taking my Dynasty to Josam's sometime this winter to have some HWH Air Leveling leaks taken care of plus have the Borg Dully Stems and Tag Axle Stems replaced. I will have him also check my drag link since my coach is also a 2006.

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My coolant surge tank on my 06 Dynasty is fully accessible which can be filled with a small plastic bottle. Are you saying that your coolant cap is not accessible?

Mike, My 06 Dynasty Countess III has the small amber turn signal mounted to the front bottom of each mirror arm. If you are missing those then is it possible that your 06 Dynasty was built early in the model year or maybe, they just forgot to add them. Makes no sense as my 02 Windsor had the amber turn signal mounted to the front bottom of the original Velvac mirrors that came from the factory. So, I am really surprised that your 06 Dynasty doesn't have them. I removed the Velvac mirror from the Windsor then sold them to a Monacoers member. I then installed Ramco three mirror fully remote and heated with LED turn signals in the middle large mirror plus In-Vue Cameras in the lower small mirror. I actually like the Ramco mirrors far better than the Velvac mirrors.

Pitch it and purchase something reliable. Don't need those headaches every few years.

Sometimes they will deliver right to your site depending on the RV Resort policy. Otherwise, you could install an adapter to your propane line which will allow you to use a smaller portable tank.

Steve, I put together a dedicated step cover air supply kit to supply air to the step cover while parked for 5-6 months at a time when working at our summer Workamping jobs. I installed the compressor over the area in front of the generator. Then tapped into the air supply line that goes to the step cover. I also installed a ball valve to isolate the step cover line from the front air tank when parked. I open it up when we are driving then I turn off the compressor so it won't run.

You need to take a really close look at your toilets. The Black Tank Flush system only works with shore water. It's not hooked up to your water pump at all. Well, at least my Windsor and Dynasty are like that.

Finally had time to look up what water solenoid valve I had purchased for my Auto-Fill Fresh Water Tank System I had built for my Windsor over 10 years ago. I bought it from eBay and it was called - 3/8" ELECTRIC SOLENOID VALVE 12 VOLT DC VITON SEAL (Normally Closed)

I had my driver's side wiper arm shaft on my Dynasty looking not so good, so I removed the arm with a wiper arm removal tool them purchased a Stainless-Steel Fender Washer that fit over the shaft and tightened it down. The covers are probably available at one of the wiper parts vendors listed in the Monacoers Parts List.

Steve, Your best bet is to call the company directly and talk with a technical service person. They may want you to send the unit back to them to figure out exactly what the problem may be causing the excess current draw.

Rob, Back in 2012 I built my own auto fresh tank fill system for my previous 2002 Windsor. I purchased a 12 VDC Water solenoid 1/2 inch which is still working to this day for the new owner. When I get home I will look up where I purchased it from and repost. Seems to me you need to dump what you have and try something that doesn't fail so often.

Foot switch great for temporary engine or exhaust brake ON. Dash switch great for leaving engine or exhaust brake on for whatever length of time.

I don't think you want to purchase a momentary otherwise you will have to hold the switch down by hand to keep the engine brake on. It has to be an ON-OFF switch. The foot switch is a momentary switch, foot on - engine brake on / foot off - engine brake off.

Sorry about the misinformation. I was solely basing my post and information based on the link you had provided. When I clicked on it, below is what it stated. Nothing about an Onan QD Generator nor model HDKAJ. Generator Oil Level Indicator - 123-2051 Designed for Onan Marquis Generators: HGJAB, HGJAC, HGJAA. RV Green Label Parts Reference Guide

Greg, Yes. It's a simple On/Off Carlings Technology Switch. Northwest RV Supply in Eugene OR will have just what you need. Give them a call.