Dr4Film

I totally agree with the evaluation that Chris has provided about the RV Pro-Aqua Water Softener. I had purchased the TravelSoft Water Softener back 20 some years ago from Camping World as the southwest area of CA where we were living had very hard water. We were living mostly at Valencia Travel Village where recently they lost some RV's due to the heavy rains. RVs, other vehicles fall into raging river in Santa Clarita Valley (ktla.com) After using the manufacturer's recommended procedure, which was a PITA, I devised my own system. I installed more resin beads to the tank where normally the salt would be placed allowing just enough room for the beads in the tank to expand when backflushing. This also allowed me to extend the time interval between the regen process. I then took a clear household filter canister and used that filled with salt crystals to "charge" the resin beads with the salt. The canister would be in line with the TravelSoft tank plus I would throttle the water speed to a very small pencil point allowing the salt to flow into the tank slowly. The output side of the tank would be discharging into the sewer line. This process is basically exactly what the Pro-Aqua is doing with its Regeneration Kit.

The most popular current Magnum BTS doesn't look like what you are holding. Is it possible that your BTS is an older version? What you are holding appears to have a sensor on the end which would need to be placed between the sides of two of your house batteries. That's how Trace/Xantrex did it with the Inverter/Charger in my previous Windsor. Here is what the current Magnum BTS looks like and what Trace/Xantrex uses.

Have you tested and confirmed that your Clock-spring is good and functioning correctly?

AFAIK, there is only one lock signal generated when you use either the keypad or keyfob. There are two separate unlock signals for unlocking either the entry door or the bay doors. Somehow, the lock signal is not getting to the door.

I agree with Chris, water intrusion is the BIGGEST problem with slides and these "new technology" toppers based on what I see on the video, will not eliminate water running or pooling on top of the slide. My coach will never have them as my previous Windsor NEVER had a drop of water come in through a slide except for one day in Southern CA when we had a driving rainstorm with 50-60 mph winds where it was raining sideways. I neglected to close the slides that day. However, when it is extremely windy and also raining, we now close the slides until the storm is over. I have only owned the Dynasty for one year now, so I haven't had any terrible rainstorms to see how these slides are for being waterproof.

My previous 02 Windsor came with a 7-Way receptacle at the rear. Never needed to tow anything until I retired so never used it. But in 2010 when prepping to leave CA and travel full-time I purchase a 30-foot trailer with electric brakes. That's when I had to wire in an Electric Brake Controller and add a heavy gauge brake wire to the 7-Way receptacle. I probed and mapped out the 7-Way to find what function each of the terminals did. That's when I discovered that the center lug was for backup lights. There was only one lug that wasn't used which was dedicated for the blue electric brake wire. It already had a 12 VDC hot wire in the proper position. Diagram enclosed. I also added a 6-way receptacle to use when towing my Saturn Vue as both the coach and car had separate brake lights and directionals. There was one terminal left over, center, which I used to add a 12 VDC hot wire for charging the car battery. The other 5 were, Tail, Brake, Right Turn, Left Turn & Ground. The coach came from the factory with a 6-way rectangle connector which was wired to a converter and then over to the 7-way receptacle. My Dynasty came with both a 7-way and 6-way on the rear of the coach. I have only used the 7-way when towing my car and it works as it should with one hot terminal for charging the car battery. 4-6-7 Way Wiring Diagram.pdf

In addition, once the RED indicator shows in the small window, reset the gauge once by pressing the top button. Once the RED indicator reaches the small window a second time after driving, it is time to replace your air filter.

Bill, I actually did a previous post on exactly what happened with photos here.

My 2006 Dynasty had the two GFI Circuit Breakers in the main power supply panel removed by some previous owner for whatever reasons. My PDI RV inspector caught it luckily and was put on a list of repairs that needed to be done prior to purchasing the coach. When I picked up the coach I never checked to see if it had been done correctly which it had NOT! The RV shop had hired a RV "electrician" to replace the standard CB with GFI CB's. Once I got the coach back home, I did some testing only to find out that the RV Tech had installed an incorrect type of GFI CB which was not wired correctly and could have caused a death or severe injury on our 10-day trip back home from Salt Lake City. Called the RV shop to report my discovering and they paid for replacing the incorrect GFI CB's with the correct ones. Why someone would disable an important safety device is beyond me but obviously it has happened to others too.

No before and after photos?

Here is a website where you can read about various service reviews in areas all over the country. RV Service Reviews My choice would be Clark Power Services. Industry Leader Provides Comprehensive Repairs - Clarke Power Services

Adam, that device is commonly referred to in RV circles either a BIRD or a BIRD-2. The Blue Seas ML-ACR eliminates the need for either one of those devices plus the Battery Isolator Relay. The best part is that it won't keep failing like your BIRD or BIRD-2.

I use the strongest blocked Drain Cleaner I can find at Lowe's or Home Depot then I follow their directions. I also use a commercial Drain Maintenace dose once a month to keep them flowing freely. The drain cover on the Windsor shower would need to be removed and all the twisted long hair from my wife removed a few times every year. The drain cover on the custom shower in the Dynasty is not removable so I use the 2-foot shark tooth tool plus chemicals to keep that drain flowing freely.

Wayne, are they BEP switches or some other brand? Photos of failed BEP switches included.

How does a mechanical switch accidentally "trip"? In my previous Windsor, it was an ON/OFF switch with a White-Rogers Solenoid. Bypassed the stupid solenoid after it decided not to work one night when I got up to use the toilet. In some newer coaches it is my understanding that they went to a Momentary Switch with a Latching Solenoid. I have no idea what is in my Dynasty as I never use the stupid thing. I guess I should look at it closer in case it decides to not work one day.

Frank has helped me more times than I can remember! I have his number on speed dial. 👍

Tom, The Amp-L-Start is still in production and is definitely a good choice as I installed one in my Windsor when the Lambert Battery Maintainer failed. Lambert is out of business. However, I much better device to install s the Blue Seas ML-ACR than either of the Lambert or Amp-L-Start. Ed, you should also consider getting rid of those BEP Battery Shut-Off Switches and replace them with Blue Seas, Perko or Guest switches. The BEP just can't handle the high amperage needed.

Not sure but most coaches have it in the Rear Run Bay. I am not familiar with the layout of your 05 Ambassador. Posting a photo of your RRB would help.

Bypass the Battery Disconnect Solenoid(s) and you should be good to go! It won't happen again.

"No EMS Indication", I am assuming you are referring to the Intellitec EMS System that sheds load when hooked to shore power less than 50 amps. That EMS is powered by your 12 VDC system. I would assume that you don't have ANY 12 VDC available to any devices, correct? If you do, then i would check the fuse on your EMS control board to see if it has blown. If not, then you need to look at your 12 VDC Battery Disconnect Solenoid providing that you didn't accidently hit the "Salesman Switch" by mistake.

A photo of your current NotSoCold would help in suggesting ideas as to securing it as it differs depending on whether it will sit on the floor or will be on a platform. The Samsung in my previous Windsor is secured from below up through the platform into the front feet. There are also three secure points in the rear using lag screws and fender washers. hasn't moved in 11 years and is now with the new coach owner. The Same Samsung in our Dynasty was already installed when we purchased it earlier this year. No idea how they secured it and hopefully I will not need to find out. I have run both Samsungs using 4 - 6 VDC Sam's Club GC-2 batteries wired in series/parallel with no issues. The Inverter in the Windsor is a MSW Xantrex/Trace 2000 Watt, and the Inverter in the Dynasty is a Magnum PSW 2000 Watt. The Samsung RF-197 which is in both coaches used on average around 1.8 KW's each day. Not sure what the Samsung RF18 would use. Possibly some member has done a study using the P2 Kill-O-Watt over a few weeks or months to calculate what the amp/hour usage is for the RF-18. Can't help you with any solar as I have never done that nor needed it.

I would guess that purchasing some Teflon strips or whatever size of Teflon you can find and cut to size to fit into the tracks would help the doors to slide much easier.

Awesome job and a BIG improvement! I use the Todd Coffelt VC-50 Voltage Booster which is no longer sold in places where the RV park power sucks. Those that don't use an EMS system have no clue what they are quietly doing to their AC's and residential refrigerators when that happens. Plus, those that do have an EMS system to monitor the incoming power will sit in their sweltering RV's waiting for their EMS to click back on after shutting their power off for low voltage.

They are also listed on page 166 of our VERY extensive Monacoers Parts List. if you haven't done so already, I would suggest that you download the list to your PC or preferred device so that you have immediate access to it in case you don't have an Internet connection.

It is on I-77 southbound. It pretty much finishes jyst before the state line into North Carolina.