Dr4Film

The VIP Control Box, SM210, is located in the FRB in the lower left area of the bay. In case you don't have the VIP Manual or the Trouble-Shooting Manual, I have attached them for you. It has troubleshooting steps that you can follow in order to locate the problem. VIP Smart Wheel Troubleshooting Manual.pdf Vip SmartWheel Owner's Manual.pdf

The 2002 Monaco Windsor came from the factory with the Essex 1601 Keypad and at least one and possibly two Key-Fob's for the keyless entry system. Ian purchased the coach without any Key-Fobs and now would like to add an aftermarket Key-Fob to his existing system. He just needs to follow what the OP did when he added a Key-Fob to his Keyless Entry System.

Wayne, The sole purpose of the two relays is to turn a "positive" signal into a "negative" signal which is what the Essex control wiring is looking for to lock or unlock. When you look back at the Essex Wiring Diagram you will need to tap into the wires labeled RED and BLACK to get power and ground to your new control box receiver and the relays. Then you need to tap into the Brown and Green wires for the lock and unlock functions. The lugs on the relay are self-explanatory.

I would trust the diagram sequence versus the part numbers. Remember that this wiring diagram is for multiple coach models.

Look toward the end where it shows the circuit boards in the FRB. I think with some patience and process of elimination you will figure it out.

Look for Fuse numbers F-20 through F-17 on the wiring diagrams once you find the correct fuse board.

Ian, There is a file in the download area which has the wiring diagrams for a 2003 Monaco Dynasty. I would download that to your PC and peruse through that to see if you can find your answers. Wiring Diagrams - Bill D’s Monacoers

The price is in the reasonable range. As far as the coach and chassis, you just have to work your way through each and every nook & cranny, each system, electrical and mechanical, etc. That may take you a few days. My first Class-A I spent two full days going through it. My first Monaco which was only one year or so old I spent one full day due to its age and the seller's use and knowledge of it. The Dynasty, I could & should have spent at least two full days. I hired a "certified" NRVIA inspector to inspect my Dynasty before purchase which was a waste of money. In retrospect I should have done in myself as I had more experience with Monaco coaches than he will ever have. Lesson learned. Remember that there are four main electrical systems, shore power, generator power, Inverter power all of which provide 120 VAC along with 12 VDC power. Two water systems, shore and water pump. Don't forget about solar power. The thermal checking was very common in many years of Monaco coaches, so you won't get away from that especially in the dark black areas.

Generally it will be available in a Coach that has seen its last days as an RV located in one of the many salvage yards around the country. However, chances are slim to none finding a company that will strip a wall off of a salvage coach. Wallpaper made in 2005 is 18 years old. Maybe it's time to think about something more current in the areas where needed. Or maybe an interior creative paint job.

I had something similar happen to me with my Windsor back in 2018 except that the right front corner would not hold air for proper ride height. I always start from the very lowest point by dumping air using the HWH panel. The only way I was able to move the coach was to turn the HWH Air Leveling Control Panel on, manually raise the right corner to what I thought was proper level and then hold the ON button so the HWH would not turn off when I put the coach in gear. I had to drive like that for about 15 miles on Adirondack mountain roads from Raquette Lake to Blue Mountain Lake where I pulled over for a short rest stop. I lowered the coach by dumping the air using the HWH as usual. Once we were ready to head on down the road I let the coach air up to ride height like I normally do and the right corner acted normal coming up to ride height as it should. Never did find out what the cause was as that was the one and only time that situation ever happened to me. I attributed it to a temporarily stuck valve in the HWH 6-pack.

Why would that type and style of drain ever be used in a shower? Tub, yes, but a shower, I don't think so, especially in any RV. Replace it if possible or modify it to allow for proper draining of the water.

Finally finished the installation of my Progressive Industries EMS-HW-50C package. As noted above, I originally installed the main unit last spring prior to leaving for our Workamping Jobs at Totem Pole Park in New Hampshire. However, I was undecided exactly where I wanted to install the A/B Switch and two displays, one in the service bay and one inside the coach. After giving it MUCH thought during that time and looking over what needed to be done, I finally decided on installing the A/B Switch just above an opening in the SS cover located in the lower left corner of the service bay. Not sure what that hole was originally used for but now it serves another purpose. The hole was large enough to get three data cable connectors through it to hookup to the A/B Switch. The display in the service bay was mounted just above the opening for the Cablemaster where the shore power cord goes out and in. That allows for the data cable to be routed through the top of the same opening. While routing the data cables from the EMS-HW-50C located in the adjacent compartment to the A/B Switch I happen to notice a block of telephone cables zip-tied to the top of the ceiling. I thought, Hmmmm, I wonder if they are connected to the same block of telephone cables, I had found behind the panel above the driver’s seat that has the Magnum Remote, the Aladdin Reset Switch and the Analog TV Booster/Switch. So, I dug out my cable tester and checked them out. The test was GOOD, there was a good connection from one end to the other. That discovery made up my mind as to where the second inside display was going to be located. Since that cable was a telephone cable and not a data cable, I had to use a union with a short section of telephone cable to convert it into a data cable. I did that in the service bay as the other end was just long enough to reach the display I had mounted to the panel in the cabinet. Photos attached! Got it all together and it works great. Now when I am hooking up the shore power for the first time, I have the A/B Switch on A which uses the display in the service bay to see if the shore power passes all of the Progressive Industries EMS-HW-50C quality checks. Once the PI relay has closed, I set the A/B Switch to B so I can monitor the shore power quality and amp draw from inside the coach.

Kevin, you may have to remove a ceiling panel as they just may have hidden it behind one of those panels. Possibly you may have someone with the same year and model that will chime in to help you.

In case you haven't downloaded the HWH 600 Series Manual I have attached it for you. Page 20 indicates that you have 11 fuses located inside the SS HWH cabinet. Make sure those are OK too. HWH 600 Manual.pdf

The HWH in my previous Windsor was model 500 and it had a large enclosed SS box secured to the ceiling of one of the storage bays. Inside was the control circuit board plus lots of fuses. Not sure if your HWH model is the same or not. It would be more helpful if you posted the model of HWH that you have in your coach.

Not necessarily! The only way to be sure is to remove the back panel and eyeball the defrost clip itself. Or wait to see if water starts to collect under the crisper bins.

It is also available on Amazon.

Josam's will only do work on the chassis NOT on the house systems. If you need an awning replaced, I strongly suggest that you contact Stone Vos Inc. in Brooksville FL for the very best awnings in the country. Talin RV would do the installation which is a sister company located just down the road a bit.

Gene, are you getting water & ice collecting UNDER the crisper bins? If you are, then that is a completely different and easily fixable problem. I was one of the first original owners of the RF-197 in my previous Windsor back in 2012 who had that very same problem within 6 months of installation. A Samsung Warranty Service call remedied any possibility of it ever happening again in either the fridge or freezer. The service tech installed upgraded Defrost Clips in both the fridge and freezer compartments. My Samsung RF-197 fridge in our Dynasty did not have the upgraded Defrost Clip either so I ordered one and installed it prior to leaving on our summer trip last year.

I would look at why the one motor at the bottom of the video is not turning the other shaft on the left. Is something loose or broken?

I don't know exactly how these seats work. Possibly one motor is working and one is not? Does one motor run one side rail and the other motor works the other? Only throwing out some guesses.

We don't drink anything that comes through the coach water system. We have been bottled water users since living in the southwest with our diesel coach. I have two 3-gallon refillable bottles that we use for coffee and cooking which are filled at a Primo Water Station in Walmart's. We also purchase the Sam's Club cases of water for drinking purposes. On board water is for showers, toilet, dishes, etc. We don't even drink the tap water while at home in Florida.

My search found Monaco and HR Twins posted by you.

I believe this was posted previously. Did you do a search for the info?

I totally agree with the evaluation that Chris has provided about the RV Pro-Aqua Water Softener. I had purchased the TravelSoft Water Softener back 20 some years ago from Camping World as the southwest area of CA where we were living had very hard water. We were living mostly at Valencia Travel Village where recently they lost some RV's due to the heavy rains. RVs, other vehicles fall into raging river in Santa Clarita Valley (ktla.com) After using the manufacturer's recommended procedure, which was a PITA, I devised my own system. I installed more resin beads to the tank where normally the salt would be placed allowing just enough room for the beads in the tank to expand when backflushing. This also allowed me to extend the time interval between the regen process. I then took a clear household filter canister and used that filled with salt crystals to "charge" the resin beads with the salt. The canister would be in line with the TravelSoft tank plus I would throttle the water speed to a very small pencil point allowing the salt to flow into the tank slowly. The output side of the tank would be discharging into the sewer line. This process is basically exactly what the Pro-Aqua is doing with its Regeneration Kit.