TomV48

I am one of those. Put my chair right where you want the smoke to go. If you want it changed, move my chair.

Not to forget checking the top of the wire cluster where you say water. Sound like a job for more caulking.

Well I have nothing directly to the problem, but low voltage indication often means resistance at a connection or fuse contact. My water pump, making wimpy noises, was the first I knew that I had a voltage problem. We found a high resistance at the contacts to my Salesman switch, which in our 2005 Ambassador is a Latching Relay so no load from the relay itself when activated. We found that the contacts on the side had tell tale heat and were found to have some bi-metal corrosion and were just flat NOT TIGHT so clean all the ring connectors and tighten them and bingo no more notable heat at the connections (they were hot enough to burn your fingers) and voltage back up at the water pump by over a volt and a half. I guess that in normal use the water pump is the highest amperage item so it showed up there first.

That is definitely the old school GO TO. And of course that is what my manual on our 05 AMB 34 shows, but they now make nice AGMs that will fit and for a long term investment, LiFePo's that will fit that four GC2 place. Plus, if I never have to water another battery it will still be too soon. They are even selling AGM/SLA batteries for most Automotive applications now too. There are probably four 12v AGMs out there that will fit the spot if GC2's in AGM are too hard to find. .

GOOD choice. I hated to think what grows in any exposed vessel of water, especially what grows in a machine. But I hope to never have to water an RV battery again. Save that store bought water for my C-PAP. Thank GOD for my AGM's and LiFePo's

"AGM's for starting are not my choice. AGM's are more persnickety and DO require a different profile than FLA. If you properly configured, and Magnum can tell you....the ME2012 for AGM, then it should be OK. The FLA's are actually MORE robust." I have contrary view. I was so tired of FLA batteries that I had started with one auxiliary AGM the Blue Beer Can one in our first trailer as a stand alone in the bedroom to power my C-PAP. I mixed FLA and AGM without a problem but as soon as the Blue Beer cans were full I pulled them off line. Now ten or twelve years later that little puppy still holds a charge like new. Same arrangement in our second trailer only TWO big Golf Cart batteries and the little Blue beer can as back up . When We got this DP in the first of 2020, it had all Agm's. Two big ones for the house and two Gr 31s for the chassis. They all worked fine but they were really old. I love the AGM. But I love my LiFePo's more. I put in LiFePo's for the house, but the Chassis Batteries were still scary old, like ten years old, so for peace of mind I decided that they needed replaced. I found that Three of the highest CCA rated, Optima, Beer Can batteries fit in almost to a tee, where the two big Group 31 Agms had been and with more CCA. I played with all sorts of really Expensive AGMs and found the most power for the money and square inches of battery tray available was the Optima I was in a quandary to know how to charge them all when off grid. House batteries charge using solar off grid and on hookup the Magnum, was also set to charge LiFePo. So I knocked out the boost relay/alternator cross feed to the house out. I figure if I have to I can use big jumper cables where some rely upon the boost button, I added a Renogy 40 amp DC-DC charger to the LiFePo's for the protection of the alternator and then strapped the Chassis batteries to them for cross charging/trickle charging, with a Big old diode to cause a one way only charge and a half volt drop to not over charge the AGM chassis batteries. Thinking about replacing the cross feed diode with a simple 10 amp solar charger that will think LiFePo voltage is a solar source and then be a four stage charger specific to AGM chassis batteries. 10 amp PWM solar charger is actually half what I paid for that big old clunky Diode, and it mounts to the bulkhead easier. That is so obvious but I never thought of it until I saw RV with Tito and he did it for his older Winnebago Gasser. Still half of all I know about RVs came from YouTube.

Pretty sure what I have is also the Aquajet 55 ARV. My documentation says it is a variable speed pump and should not require or be used with the pressure accumulator. Sometimes it seems to make a little annoying chirp as it brings the system back to shut off pressure but it definitely steps up performance if you open to faucets at the same time in order to prevent loss of pressure at one. I'm happier with it than I was with the single rate single flow pump I had in the Old Coach.

So I do not have a dog, but any time I park for any protracted period of time I release the air pressure. But yet I still feel a lot better with this thing on my emergency brake knob. Helps avoid accidents and it's one more layer of theft deterrent. https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/universal-fit-air-brake-truck-lock-single-knob-keyed-differently

I had about 8 extra feet of Romex behind the frig and there was a spurious connector on it that when it failed was a bear to find. Made my Microwave dead. No idea why the extra footage rolled up and can't even recall the name of those nasty little connectors with the lever that comes down on the stripped tips of the Romex. I had to set a junction box and join the wires correctly in the box. Lots of luck with Phantom electric. You will find it and PLEASE,,, when you DO,,,,Let us all know what was the cause

I have decided against going RES FRIG, but still wonder when I hear these threads. Aren't there still RES FRIGs that vent heat up the back or do virtually all of them in take air and vent heat out the bottom front? I thought, that I saw some of the smaller Res Frigs and Apt size frigs, while we were last Frig shopping, that still had coils up the back which need to vent upwards? OH and to the original post. NICE CLEAN LOOKING FRIG INSTALL

My power up there is isolated with a CUT OFF to not work when the ignition is on. So if your engine was running that may be the sudden problem

As a 05 Ambassador guy too, I ask the same question. All I can think is maybe some seemingly benign a/c hook up is reversed. I'm thinking the only way your GFCI is in the AC loop might be the thermostat ? But I thought that was DC. You might, just for the heck of it go back and look at the point at which the motor is connected to the alternating current in the air conditioner and see if it could possibly have been reversed. With a DC would make things run backwards with an AC it shouldn't run backwards but it might just be creating a ground fault somewhere.

I'd need a hand or a ruler for scale to go there. I occasionally find "junk" sitting in front of the tire on my truck or automobile that someone seems to have put there to give me a flat or just to see if I crush it. They got me once with a jewelry sized pliers. Tire guy took it out of the tire and I still have it in my toolbox. Amazingly good hardened tool steel.

Pretty sure Square D is the brand. You shouldn't be any magic take a break her out go to the store or electrical supply and get a matching square D with a gfic on it. I haven't been doing any construction recently but square D was a pretty big brand there's a long back as I can remember.

Do you have a sub panel hidden somewhere. Pretty sure a 2007 coach is going to have the code required GFI or GFI s somewhere.

AND, to my surprise, our travel partners have a second breaker panel, as in a sub panel that seems (not mine so I haven't been too well oriented to it), but it seems to be the place all his inverter circuits come through. Okay I just checked in with him he has no GFCI outlets in his coach but he does have a GFI button on a breaker and his breaker box Not sure how bad it is when one of those goes south on you I know that we have our house that way but fortunately that breaker has never given me any trouble at the house.

I'm not sure I have ever seen anyone say this, as we always assume everyone knows that the most common GFCI's have visible buttons in the middle of an outlet, between the two plug sockets. I guess I offer that as, for instance, in our home the GFCI button is on an actual breaker in our main breaker panel and not an obvious button on the bathroom or kitchen outlet as is common. I guess for those who cannot find an actual GFCI outlet, either in the kitchen or bathroom or maybe on an outdoor outlet, YOU COULD CHECK IN THE BREAKER BOX FOR A BUTTON.

In our coach the outlet in the bathroom is the GFCI. It is the source from there to many, but not all of the outlets in the coach. One of our two 20 amp pop outs on the our inverter goes to the microwave and the other to the GFCI. If the GFCI circuit shorted out, I'm not sure how it makes both 20 amp pop out blow, but I do know that a bunch of our outlets do run direct off shore or Gen power, even when I bump the GFCI off while I work around it. I hope that analysis helps in your trouble shooting. Tom

Ted Tom Cherry is probably correct, as he usually is, but before mine failed completely, and before my LiFePo, I was getting a voltage loss across the latching relay, Salesman Switch. Made my lights dim when our variable speed water pump cycled. And the voltage drop was so significant that the water pump struggled to get up to shut off pressure. We Found really loose lug connections on the right terminal as I faced in to my ekec bay. During use, there was enough heat to burn your fingers so easy to find when we got to that point in tracing connections. A year or so later it started to act up again and with good connections up I was reading about a half to 3/4 of a Volt of loss across the whole relay and the whole thing was getting pretty warm. You might get warm on a continuous duty relay as normal but shouldn't have notable heat with a properly functioning latching relay. I first just jumpered it, but then started to miss the convenience and peace of mind of being able to kill the power when we leave during the day. All 12 v house power except the frig and the Magnum shut down with that switch. So I bought a new one. Held out for an OEM part which at the time was not on Amazon but I got it in a week or so from an rv parts dept of a dealer I found on line, Florida I think. Wish I could recall their name as they seemed to have a pretty good parts inventory

The guys who helped me, a lot, were if memory serves, discount solar. They are on North side of Main St, about the last such shop toward the east end of town

I have only a vague understanding of the very complicated systems of our coaches. I'm not even sure but what I'm getting redundant information. But on my cars I have an OBD scanner that reads all of the internal functions of the engine. Next best thing I found for the diesel is a scan gauge. And that puppy confuses me no end so I'm not even sure all of the things that it reads but if it reads any of the systems directly and your error light is an error, I suspect the scan gauge might read the correct data for you. And when I'm not poking around trying to read internal functions, just rolling along, I keep the display set on RPM, engine temperature, current mileage, and cumulative mileage since the engine started. Never bad to be able to look directly at those four items, if nothing else.

Wow that's better than the measured results we had with the furion 12 volt

No. Sorry, we love having a gas frig. Although if ours had not been replaced with the extended warranty I would have been tempted to go residential and just upgrade my inverter a little bit to handle it. By the time we got the new norcold 12:10 on back order, 7 to 8 months, the full price tag for the install and everything was close to $6500 I think. Not sure how much of that the warranty company paid to the dealer but was not an inexpensive replacement.. The brand new one is colossally good.

On some coaches the inverter powers the gas / elec frig. Ours has two outlets in the back. One powers the frig from only gen or shore hookup. The other is from the inverter and is intended to power the ice maker by inverter when off hookup/gen and frig on gas. One trip (season) our gas was dead and while waiting for the new frig, (7+ mo back order) I ran the frig off inverter, but that is not viable long term so we had to find hook ups at every camp. In rough terms, the four door Norcold pulls 4 amps of 120 v ac. But on the inverter, with average battery voltage above 13 vdc from our lifepo's the inverter was pulling an "extra" 41 amps. That worked ok when the engine was running because our DC TO DC charger gave us 40 amps, but off hookup with frig on inv, and our normal TV and Dish etc,. one overnight was barely sustainable even with our 600 amp battery bank. Makes me wonder The audacity of dealers and manufacturers that put a residential refrigerator in a coach or trailer with two batteries. Then even the new 12 volt furion refrigerator in my friend's new trailer required three batteries and 300 watts of solar at a sunny Beach camp out to sustain indefinitely.

California taxes the full price before trade in.