klcdenver

Did you have to trim the plastic on the inside?

This is the control board. Look at the part number on it to make sure it is the correct one for you. If it is make offer plus shipping. Kenneth

You can have it for the freight charge. Then you can buy me a beer if we ever meet up. If pac n mail is open tomorrow I will get it coming your way. Do you want cheapest freight or something expedited? I never had to reset it. I have the whole norcold 1200 if you need other parts. It was working pretty good if not really hot. I just went ahead and switched it to a residential. Kenneth

Attached is a pic of the one I have. Sorry I didn’t get to it this morning. Let me know if you want it. Kenneth

I may have it will check in the morning. Kenneth

If you are using your tow vehicle lights you probably need a diode kit installed.

I would try the RV salvage yards

That is just an add on. You do not change anything out. It really helps in the wind. You can get it all on eBay or Amazon.

Paul, i think you found your leak in another place put here are pics I told you I would send. Kenneth

I changed one out on a 2003 diplomat. It should be on the passenger side and is done from the inside. Not a fun job. Grab several different lengths of screw drivers and start removing dash parts until you reach it. Mirrors and lights will help. I got mine out from the underneath without removing the whole dash.

I had same problem. Finally cut a rain gutter out of some aluminum flashing about 3” wide and bent it into L shape about 1”x2” with the 2” part sagging downward a little just so the door will clear it when closing. The length should be a few inches wider than top of the door. I painted mine black about the same color as the door frame. I mounted one end slightly higher on one end to create a runoff. I mounted it using Lexal which is same as silicone but sticks better and does not yellow. It works great so far and last week was in 2 downpours. If you want a picture let me know and can get it for you in a few days.

It is from the Cummins Mobile App. If you use a browser then sign into quick serve you will get a different picture.

Just replace it all from the turbo. If you can weld it is pretty easy job. You can order all parts on Amazon. I changed mine out to an Aero Turbine muffler and no noticeable change in sound. Mine is all stainless steel now from turbo. This setup is at least 25 pounds lighter than the muffler you have and less restrictive.

The Samsung RF18 should fit pretty easy for you. You will probably have to do a little carpenter work. It is the favorite that most to change to. It will run off your current inverter also. I have had one for about a year now with no problems.

There are several good past articles on this subject in here if you will do a search.

Sorry to hear you are having trouble. If Interstate does not have a hookup for you rig Cummins which is really close by has a few hookups which are not behind the secure area. Good luck. There are a couple of wire connectors at the transmission. Make sure one has not come loose or something thrown from a tire and damaged one of them.

It is possibly stuck in defrost mode. I would unplug it for a few minutes then reprogram it. I have the same fridge and something of the similar nature happened to me and this fixed it.

Look at the bottom of the lens and you will find a number for them which is probably a TYC brand. Google it and you will find many of them for sale. The right and left have different numbers.

I have the Ag Diesel Solutions on my 2007 ISL 400 and it is working nicely. I talked to them before I bought and it appears to do better than they claimed. Leaving in 10 days on a long trip where I can get a better test of it. It has a 30 day money back guarantee if you don’t like it. You should call and talk to them as I found them very helpful. 812-618-9168.

Very nice set up.

I just rebuilt my exhaust system and used an Aero Turbine muffler. I have about 350.00 plus my labor in it.

Thanks. just found it reset connectors 67,68 & 69 and fixed.

My headlights are stuck on high beam and low beams are not on at all. Fuses and relays in electric bay on drivers side all check good and have been swapped out. I can hear relay inside dash click when I press the high low beam on smart wheel. High beams flash when the Flash button on smart wheel is pressed. All the other functions on smart wheel are working. I removed all power and restored and same results. Could it be the manual switch on the dash? Good ideas appreciated. 2007 Diplomat 40SKQ Thanks, Kenneth

My headlights are stuck on high beam and low beams are not on at all. Fuses and relays in electric bay on drivers side all check good and have been swapped out. I can hear relay inside dash click when I press the high low beam on smart wheel. High beams flash when the Flash button on smart wheel is pressed. All the other functions on smart wheel are working. I removed all power and restored and same results. Could it be the manual switch on the dash? Good ideas appreciated. 2007 Diplomat 40SKQ Thanks, Kenneth

Try getting to each slide motor and disconnect the electric to them. Put a fuse in then and see if it blows. If it blows immediately then you probably have a direct short prior to the switches. If this happens then get to each switch and remove the hot leg and put a fuse in. If it does not blow then Reconnect each slide motor one at a time and operate that slide to narrow down the culprit slide. Like Dr4Film said likely a motor shorted out.