klcdenver

10.9 is the grade. It is a hardened bolt.

You should clean it with water then sand the corroded places. Then take baking soda and water to neutralize any acid. Rinse good and paint. I used flex seal paint on my battery tray and very happy with it.

Sounds like a stuck starter solenoid since everything goes dim when you hit start switch.

I replaced a 13,500 with a 15,000. You need to get the model number of the 13,500 and the thermostat that it uses. Send an email or call Dometic and they will tell you the model number for the 15,000 you will need. You more than likely will also have to get a new circuit board which Dometic will give you that part number also so it will interface with your existing thermostat. Be sure and get the dip switches set in correct positions. I also added soft starts to both units. Some people are changing there units to a Houghton sold by Rev and say it is much quieter plus about 1/2 the price.

Get a Scan Gauge D so you can read codes and reset them

Just add a new ground wire to the existing one.

👍👍

I have been using one for a year or so now. Usually works pretty good but far from perfect. I like to use the needle on the difficult ones.

Funny you brought this subject up. I am 63 and greased mine this morning. Aching so bad I can’t sleep. It is hell to get old. Oh yea I changed out my house batteries today and put the old ones in the scissor lift.

It was available at one time on eBay. Maybe you can figure out the seller and contact them.

Exercise the air brake handle and jiggle it around. Sometimes it doesn’t make a good connection..

I have a 2007 diplomat 40skq. Not sure about yours but this is what I have: Air Bags (Conti Tech) Front FD 200-25 CI Rear 99-12

I would suspect the drivers side window is leaking and it is running down the wall to the floor under the side console.

Be careful of the capacitors inside they pack a lot of wall up.

Look on your data card. There is usually a copy on the inside of the vanity cabinet.

Please post the P/N for the defrost clip.

Make sure your cooktop stove works. I had a regulator go bad a few years back and it would not let lp get past it.

Check the coupler were you are connecting with shop air. After you air it up remove shop air and check for leak there.

I had the same thing happen to me last week. It was not the handle broke but one of the linkages inside the door came loose. It was threaded rod and had a rod coupling nut so you could adjust it and the jam nuts had backed off. Over time it just turned until it backed off and one of the rods came out. I had to take the the inside panel off and used needle nose pliers to grab the loose rod to open the door. Then I had to take the end of the door frame off, side where the latches are located. Then I had enough room to pull the plastic panel back to put it back together and set the jam nuts.

Do you have a safety steering device added on your rig? If so it probably needs to be re-centered.

Thanks. Great info and pics are worth a thousand words.

I have done 2 doors both diplomats. Pretty easy job. Leave your scissor in case the strut breaks. Here is a link that should cover everything needed. If you need more info send me a PM. Kenneth https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/gas-door-prop-installed-241214.html

You can get a rebuild kit for it. Don’t know the part number but usually available on eBay

You do not state which engine you have. I had a 2003 Diplomat with ISC 330 and had to remove the housing to fix the same problem. There was not enough clearance to get item 7 on the attached diagram out of the housing. If your housing is also bad I am pretty sure I have a spare one.

It has me stunned. The opposite side of the steps had the same screw. It is about a 3/16” diameter x4” with machine threads. Cannot find it exiting underneath any where. I ran both of them down tight and they are covered up now. ’